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Can the genetics be saved from plant with fusarium/pythium/stem canker?

Ca++

Well-known member
@Cloneman
Can I interest you in some west coast cuttings?

5 weeks from bean to flower is good to know. It's more realistic than the 7 I take. My 7 is fixed by my flowering period. I must take cuts from my plants, before they bloom, for that 7 weeks. So my veg period is set at 7 weeks, though they don't actually need it. Any seedlings joining the group, are done a few days earlier, just to join the repotting schedule.

It's really not slow to do seeds.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran

In our study, hypochlorous acid, 0.01%, effectively eliminated all molds (including Fusarium and Aspergillus) and yeasts (Candida spp.) tested, with fungicidal activity observed in as little as 15 seconds.


I'm not sure where this idea that fusarium is untreatable came from,,I'm finding science papers that say different,,,I'm wondering if the woman from tumi would say I'm wrong,,wtf do I know anyway

It's also possible that the discolouration on the bottom of the stem is from applications of h202,,,I could show you something that seems exactly the same but it's from h2o2 applications

Don't freak out,,,read and grow better, teach the so called teachers
H202 prevents stem canker not cause it. From MyNameStitch guide -

Stem Canker (Stem Rot)

Stem cankers are what the name is, they form on stems from a fungus similar to white and yellow leaf spot. Weather can affect the way stem cankers can live; wet humid weather is what makes this fungus thrive. Canker fungus is caused and entered the same white and leaf spot fungus enters the plants, it enters through an open cut, wound, pruned wound, or pest infestation that has caused damage by eating leaves or chewing on the stem’s or stalks and can be transferred through rain. It can also get in through susceptible plants that have been wounded through environmental factors like animal attacks, pruning, LST (Low Stress Training), and using cutting utensils that are not sanitary that may have fungus or bacteria on them. Damage to the plant occurs in the form of a yellowish-brown discoloration on the lower portion of the stalk. Later, the leaves turn yellow and fall off, and the plant dries out and dies.They form mostly on the stems, but severe cases spotting starts to form on the leaves from internal tissue being cut of nutrients and water. In between nodes is where stem cankers start to form, and move up the plant, around the 3rd, 4th and 5th node is where it will mainly affects the plants. Stems will have brown lesions; eventually have a dark reddish-brown sunken canker in the stem. Sometimes if severe the wound may reopen and appear split in the middle of the area of the wound on the stem and can also create a buldge. The lesions can extend up the plant over 3 or 4 nodes, once this happens the plant starts to wilt from vascular uptake being cut. This gets confused with root rot when the plant starts to wilt, and leaves turn yellowish brown and or spots, because the stem canker does not show itself yet once this starts to happen. Once the stem canker has been observed and if not treated, the leaves will start to wilt with yellow, white and brown spots, similar to white and yellow leaf spot. When plants are affected by this, the plant is more susceptible to more fungus and viral infections, from air borne spores.

The garbage I have been sent. Stem canker, not H202 exposure -

DSC00125.JPG


2023-07-23-003614.jpg


Stem canker is caused by fusarium, pythium, and bacteriia.
 
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Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Have you tried an aero cloner? You can add some Bleach or H2O2 to disinfect the water.

Would love to give you some clean gg clones, but unfortunately I'm not in the states..
This is from online clone sellers. 2 had no excuse for sending plants about to die, strainly and seed canary. The other 2 orders, I knew what to look for. Could take 2 months to die if minimally infected. Wonder whther scam to sell in demand clones, that will die after weeks, and never get to flower to confirm fake.
 

englishrick

Plumber/Builder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Is the science paper I sent wrong?,,or have I read it incorrectly?



Quote from paper
'In our study, hypochlorous acid, 0.01%, effectively eliminated all molds (including Fusarium and Aspergillus) and yeasts (Candida spp.) tested, with fungicidal activity observed in as little as 15 seconds."
 

eastcoastjoe

Well-known member
Horrible? No.... but still not optimal according to the science.

68 is fine and horrible doesn't have a place in the description of a plant's behavior at the temperature.

By the way, 65 is below 70.

I recall 50 to 90 being suggested parameters for growth during outdoor days.
Do you grow indoors ? Below 70 is horrible man. Sure plants will live. But why would anyone waste all these resources to grow less than optimal plants ? Makes no sense ar all
 

eastcoastjoe

Well-known member
That temperature would stop mold growth. Some large grower said they keep flowering at 68 to retain the most terpenes. Do not know if it is true.

It’s not true. Most big ops use led lights these days. Ever try growing plants under led in low temperatures?
As for the mold thing, it’s all about relative humidity. Below 60 RH mold doesn’t grow. It’s that simple
 

mean mr.mustard

I Pass Satellites
Veteran
Do you grow indoors ? Below 70 is horrible man. Sure plants will live. But why would anyone waste all these resources to grow less than optimal plants ? Makes no sense ar all

Yes, I grow indoors... and no, below 70 is not horrible.

In this example Loc was finding the growth parameters for mold and realized that lower temps are not as conducive towards mold growth.
 

eastcoastjoe

Well-known member
Is the science paper I sent wrong?,,or have I read it incorrectly?



Quote from paper
'In our study, hypochlorous acid, 0.01%, effectively eliminated all molds (including Fusarium and Aspergillus) and yeasts (Candida spp.) tested, with fungicidal activity observed in as little as 15 seconds."

That’s likely on the surface.
Is the science paper I sent wrong?,,or have I read it incorrectly?



Quote from paper
'In our study, hypochlorous acid, 0.01%, effectively eliminated all molds (including Fusarium and Aspergillus) and yeasts (Candida spp.) tested, with fungicidal activity observed in as little as 15 seconds."

It would work on the surface or kill it in water. I don’t believe it would kill and internal infection. That study was on humans and was studying the effect of hypochlorous acid on an eye infection ( fungal keratitis)
 

eastcoastjoe

Well-known member
In this example Loc was finding the growth parameters for mold and realized that lower temps are not as conducive towards mold growth.

If temperatures were the key factor, I wonder why cool basements get mold 🤔
 

eastcoastjoe

Well-known member
"Not as conducive" doesn't mean "will prevent"...



I use coco and perlite pots hand watered with salts under HPS and CMH.

My environment fluctuates.

View attachment 18894100


Mold remediation companies install what in spaces that are prone to mold ? Air conditioning? Not even sure what your arguing. It’s doesn’t even make sense.

So you just said yourself that your environment fluctuates. HPS in a tent, definitely not 68 at all times.
 

eastcoastjoe

Well-known member
"Not as conducive" doesn't mean "will prevent"...


You know what will prevent mold on an environment 100% ? Surely not temperature. It’s moisture control and airflow.
There’s a whole big industry that does that for a living and you wanna know what they recommend to prevent mold from growing ? 60% or below RH
I wonder how I can run my room at 80 and never have mold ……
 

mean mr.mustard

I Pass Satellites
Veteran
Mold remediation companies install what in spaces that are prone to mold ? Air conditioning? Not even sure what your arguing. It’s doesn’t even make sense.

So you just said yourself that your environment fluctuates. HPS in a tent, definitely not 68 at all times.

Air conditioning would lower temps and humidity. I don't work for a mold remediation company.

My environment does fluctuate so I said so.

At no point did I claim my temperature is always 68.

You obviously have something to prove and I wish you the best of luck.

The fact remains that temperature under 70 isn't "horrible".
 

eastcoastjoe

Well-known member
Air conditioning would lower temps and humidity. I don't work for a mold remediation company.

My environment does fluctuate so I said so.

At no point did I claim my temperature is always 68.

You obviously have something to prove and I wish you the best of luck.

The fact remains that temperature under 70 isn't "horrible".


Your saying under 70 isn’t horrible but your grow isn’t under 70 lol. Under 70 may help slow mold growth but I can tell you what other growth it’s going to slow lol.
Maybe it isn’t horrible to people like yourself who can’t achieve “optimal” conditions. If you had the ability to control your environment and see how the plants grew in better conditions ,you would know what I’m saying holds truth.
There is a reason any commercial nursery or production facility would not keep temps that low. It may work in your tent to but it’s far from optimal and totally unnecessary for the sake of preventing mold in the environment . Far from it 👍🏼
 

mean mr.mustard

I Pass Satellites
Veteran
Your saying under 70 isn’t horrible but your grow isn’t under 70 lol. Under 70 may help slow mold growth but I can tell you what other growth it’s going to slow lol.
Maybe it isn’t horrible to people like yourself who can’t achieve “optimal” conditions. If you had the ability to control your environment and see how the plants grew in better conditions ,you would know what I’m saying holds truth.
There is a reason any commercial nursery or production facility would not keep temps that low. It may work in your tent to but it’s far from optimal and totally unnecessary for the sake of preventing mold in the environment . Far from it 👍🏼

You may want to ask before you assume.

I have the ability to control my environment and can achieve optimal conditions.

You used the word "horrible", and that was my only point of contention.

Higher temps will bring faster growth, but nothing is "horrible" about 68.
 

eastcoastjoe

Well-known member
You may want to ask before you assume.

I have the ability to control my environment and can achieve optimal conditions.

You used the word "horrible", and that was my only point of contention.

Higher temps will bring faster growth, but nothing is "horrible" about 68.

I don’t need to ask. It’s obvious your a rookie at growing. anyone arguing that plants grown at 68 degrees grow even close to as good as a plant grown at 80 , is not worth arguing with.
You also don’t know what your talking about when it comes to mold and proper environment. I’m hoping no one takes your advice to set there room to 68 to control mold and grow optimal plants. It’s silliness
 

englishrick

Plumber/Builder
Mentor
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Mr Mustard is something special,,this Is starting to sound disrespectful bro,,,I play the fool and deserve to take shit but he doesn't,,Lighten the tone bro

When it comes to flavour I personally like to grow at low low temps towards the end ,,I only go high temp in veg,,,Yes plants grow better at high temps but that's not how you get the best flavour and colours

I've had pythium before but not fusarium,,it seemed to pretty much vanish in rockwool and using zyme with a periodic h202 flash,,,il be using hydrochloric acid in future tho,,
 
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chronosync

Well-known member
Seeds I have are from around 2017 from attitude. In a fascist state so very little room to grow and no outdoors. With price of seeds, and have horrible luck with them, might just have to spend more than I have had in income in years, and get a few from pig tails. Wish they had deals on buying a few, especially since shipping is included and does not cost much more to ship 3 or 4 than 1.

Still kicking myself. Had GG4 real and clean, but after 8 years wanted to try some new strains then lost everything from bens nursery spider mites.
damn yeah thats bad luck - cant blame ya man shit happens.

only reason I mention those guys specifically is because thats what I have personal experience growing.
I always wanted to try the real deal GG#4

You might try some photosynthesis plus as well. If I was in your situation id be starting over from seed after a good scrub on all tents and equipment. If you really want to save something id setup a quarantine area to propagate in, seperate from the rest. Id be looking into biological controls like milstop, mycostop, actiniovate, hydroguard or southern ag bio fungicide etc. treat the mother or original clone, treat the cuts. Cut and root again once new mothers are free of symptoms. Take cuts off the top of the plant and with new growth as plants can sometimes block off pathogens from new growth. Definitely do what is in your power to control environment so as not to favor mold. All fungi have different survival parameters and optimal conditions such as temperature. Some mold species thrive in cold temperatures some in warm etc but the one limiting factor is available moisture. With cool damp conditions you are fostering certain molds to grow.

As for hlv idk man it seems like its going to be hard to escape it. I took some cuts in a little while back and while its amazing having some verified top shelf keepers to compare my seed pops and personal cuts to … its weird not knowing if they carry something because some of these cuts are old as hell.
 
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