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any kiss users have exp. with veg+bloom

Aspenou812

Well-known member
Veteran
.5 conversion in an 80 deg sealed room running CO2. Ebb and gro buckets with hydroton fed 4 times for 30 mins ea while lights on. I started at 500 in veg and the plants immediately yellowed under t5`s. bumped it up to 700 and they got their color back. Moved em to the flower room with Hps lights and they yellowed up again. Kept bumping up the nutes till they greened up. That's how I ended up at 1100. Theyre rocking and there isn't one burned tip or clawing. They look perfect.

Hi Dollar..... Yea under normal conditions if you see and yellowing all it takes is a bump up of the ec and that fixes it . Let the plants tell you how much the need and thell thrive.... VB is some really good stuff...... Hey if a rookie can do it... I wish my room was as full as yours......
 

saitama

Well-known member
I do. .2EC of shine day 19
 

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saitama

Well-known member
Wubba Luba dub dub nice I was just about to grab it but was thinking of using Moab since I haven't heard anything from anyone. I'm sold now though.

Stay schwifty my friend! Check out the shine finish. You can find it on vegbloom_tech Instagram. I will be giving it a shot this round.
 
Guys I mixed a gal of vegbloom with a lil calimagic and protekt. My ppm is 700, ph 6, and 100 of that is tap. Started watering every other day, now once a day. I figured a light feed for new clones would be ok?

I checked some runoff this morning its 1400 ppm! Why would it be double? I just checked my tap runoff with just straight coco and it's 250 ppm. Plants turned purple on me first few days so that's why added some calimagic. I'm about to make up a full rez but feel like i need a flush first?

Im a wool guy so pretty much a newb for coco. Any suggestions? I'm going to be doing flood and drain... i know i know shouldn't do it that way. Haven't hooked up my exhaust yet so just moving air around with a fan.
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T5 8 bulb light
77-80 temps
40-60 RH
 

saitama

Well-known member
Guys I mixed a gal of vegbloom with a lil calimagic and protekt. My ppm is 700, ph 6, and 100 of that is tap. Started watering every other day, now once a day. I figured a light feed for new clones would be ok?

I checked some runoff this morning its 1400 ppm! Why would it be double? I just checked my tap runoff with just straight coco and it's 250 ppm. Plants turned purple on me first few days so that's why added some calimagic. I'm about to make up a full rez but feel like i need a flush first?

Im a wool guy so pretty much a newb for coco. Any suggestions? I'm going to be doing flood and drain... i know i know shouldn't do it that way. Haven't hooked up my exhaust yet so just moving air around with a fan.
View attachment 403621

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T5 8 bulb light
77-80 temps
40-60 RH

700 PPM on whicj scale? If .5, then you're feeding 1.4EC and that is full flower strength. Full strength plus non established roots is most likely why you are getting high run off. How much runoff? Keep strength to around .5 to .7ec until veg then 1.0ec highest and adjust based on what you're seeing.

I would flush and go from there. Good luck!
 
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dansbuds

Retired from the workforce Bullshit
ICMag Donor
Veteran
depends on the coco your using too , some need to be flushed before using . i've used canna for years , but the last year its been shit right out of the bags !!! causing all kinds of problems ! i have sense switched to the canna blocks & have had great results .

plus .... pleace talk in EC when asking questions about feed strength , all the ppms & tds meters convert back to EC . so its just much easier for us to help if we know what strength your feeding .

picture.php
 
700 PPM on whicj scale? If .5, then you're feeding 1.4EC and that is full flower strength. Full strength plus non established roots is most likely why you are getting high run off. How much runoff? Keep strength to around .5 to .7ec until veg then 1.0ec highest and adjust based on what you're seeing.

I would flush and go from there. Good luck! By 9 like z 1
I think it's .5....it's an old oaktron ultra basic tds meter. What should I flush at like 350ppm? The calimag and protekt will raise my ppm also, I'm not sure what base of VB plus my tap should be. Tap is 100, so like 250 VB 100 tap, then calimagic, protekt? Sorry let me know if i'm not making sense.
 
depends on the coco your using too , some need to be flushed before using . i've used canna for years , but the last year its been shit right out of the bags !!! causing all kinds of problems ! i have sense switched to the canna blocks & have had great results .

plus .... pleace talk in EC when asking questions about feed strength , all the ppms & tds meters convert back to EC . so its just much easier for us to help if we know what strength your feeding .

View Image
It's char coir coco, really good things have been said about it. With my 100 tap and straight coco it came out at just under .4 EC or 250ppm. Shit I was trying not to go fork out another $100 for Ec pen. Been sidelined for a few years and all my stuff is old or expired so getting this up and running has been a bit pricey.
 

saitama

Well-known member
I think it's .5....it's an old oaktron ultra basic tds meter. What should I flush at like 350ppm? The calimag and protekt will raise my ppm also, I'm not sure what base of VB plus my tap should be. Tap is 100, so like 250 VB 100 tap, then calimagic, protekt? Sorry let me know if i'm not making sense.

I, as well as many others, have found that you don't need to use more than just the V+B, so I don't use calimag or protekt. People typically introduce those products if there is a need to amend the V+B based on what their plants are telling them. I would flush with 250 to 300ppm tap/V+B only (.5 to .6EC) until you see the runoff at the same strength and then give them some time. How is your root system? What made you choose to water every day? I usually wait until I see my roots poking out of the bottom until I start watering every day.

Definitely find out what scale your meter is running so you can convert to EC and life will be much simpler.

FYI I am still a noob so someone with more experience can/probably will chime in with better advice.
 
I, as well as many others, have found that you don't need to use more than just the V+B, so I don't use calimag or protekt. People typically introduce those products if there is a need to amend the V+B based on what their plants are telling them. I would flush with 250 to 300ppm tap/V+B only (.5 to .6EC) until you see the runoff at the same strength and then give them some time. How is your root system? What made you choose to water every day? I usually wait until I see my roots poking out of the bottom until I start watering every day.

Definitely find out what scale your meter is running so you can convert to EC and life will be much simpler.

FYI I am still a noob so someone with more experience can/probably will chime in with better advice.
Roots are nice and white already pooping out of the waxi cups. I was actually amazed at how fast the roots came out like 5 days. I'll flush and run it low for a while then up it once they show they handle it. There's a pic of some roots on previous page.
 

Trich_Tyson

Active member
Good advice on the flush. Flush with like 200 ppm nutrient (plus 100 tap = 300ppm) till your run off reads right

Also try skipping calmag and protekt for now to limit variables. V+b has plenty of calcium and decent mag. By adding cal mag you are changing ratios (increasing n, ca, mg and sulfur). V+b is complete. Which means it has a good starting ratio. Adjust strength as needed.

Just remember that by trying to boost one mineral/element you are likely altering another.. most of these salts are compounds. (Calcium nitrate, potassium silicate magnesium sulfate etc.)

If you play with a nutrient calculator you will see how each addition affects the ratios

Hope that makes sense.

And in coco I feel like ratios particularly ca, mg, k are of great importance
 

LVgrow

Member
if its an Oakton it reads in TDS .5 conversion .

What about Hanna? I have an old black ppm/ph/ec meter but the if my ppm is say 1200 my ec reads like 2300-2400. So I've just been going by ppm.


Also is the tap water/ calmag a necessity because I forgot to add it first so I didn't add it at all.
 
Good advice on the flush. Flush with like 200 ppm nutrient (plus 100 tap = 300ppm) till your run off reads right

Also try skipping calmag and protekt for now to limit variables. V+b has plenty of calcium and decent mag. By adding cal mag you are changing ratios (increasing n, ca, mg and sulfur). V+b is complete. Which means it has a good starting ratio. Adjust strength as needed.

Just remember that by trying to boost one mineral/element you are likely altering another.. most of these salts are compounds. (Calcium nitrate, potassium silicate magnesium sulfate etc.)

If you play with a nutrient calculator you will see how each addition affects the ratios

Hope that makes sense.

And in coco I feel like ratios particularly ca, mg, k are of great importance
I just made up my rez at 350ppm tap&VB only, It did require a good amount of ph down to put me at 6. I flooded this time, I'm wondering if I should of just flushed from the top until I get my levels down? After I flooded, it was the same ppm as what I started with. Think my next watering I will just run through the top and then I can check out the run off.
 

soundman

Member
Like others said just switch back to veg + bloom alone and flush with light solution until runoff matches or comes close.

I never had luck with veg + bloom in coco with EC under 1.2. My water was RO at 10 to 20 ppm at 500 conversion. I get deficiencies at lower ec. In flower I bumped up to 1.8 EC or so.

I have only added epsom salt as needed a few times. V+B is a little weak in mag.

I have since moved on from V+B.
I used V+B for a few years when they first came out.
 

saitama

Well-known member
What about Hanna? I have an old black ppm/ph/ec meter but the if my ppm is say 1200 my ec reads like 2300-2400. So I've just been going by ppm.


Also is the tap water/ calmag a necessity because I forgot to add it first so I didn't add it at all.

The tap and calmag .3ec starting for the ro version is to help buffer pH and keep it stable. It's not required but helps. I only pH my res once a day and it never goes above 6.2
 

Trich_Tyson

Active member
I just made up my rez at 350ppm tap&VB only, It did require a good amount of ph down to put me at 6. I flooded this time, I'm wondering if I should of just flushed from the top until I get my levels down? After I flooded, it was the same ppm as what I started with. Think my next watering I will just run through the top and then I can check out the run off.
I guess you mean ur running ebb and flow or flood tables. I don't quite understand how those systems work.
I don't like bottom feeding.. if he media is just constantly pulling up solution how do u flush old salts out without gravity

Yes. I'd flush from top. 2 x container size at least. Flush once. Allow to sit and dissolve salts then flush that out.
I feed every watering.. and I do it like that. Water a bit to moisten. Come back in 5 min. Water to a bit of runoff. Never flushed till the end
 

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