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any kiss users have exp. with veg+bloom

dansbuds

Retired from the workforce Bullshit
ICMag Donor
Veteran
my orders take about 7 to 8 days from Cali to NY . i ordered last thursday & it isn't here yet , probably by friday .
 

Old Toker

Well-known member
it'll mix up , takes a few minutes . but the reading is pretty accurate after a minute or so . i just drop a recirc pump in my 55 gallon to do the mixing . i use a 1 gallon pitcher full of ro to add the V&B too then dump that in the barrel & let the pump mix it for a few minutes . normally i need to ad a little more & that i just sprinkle on top . let it mix for 5 minutes .... adjust the PH & pull the recirc pump out .... done .
Still haven't been able to get V&B to completely desolve. Sprinkled a couple of teaspoons of V&B into a one gal glass pitcher of 69 degree water and stirred it for few minutes. Still had the crystals on the bottom of the pitcher. Drained the liquid off the top into the reservoir and added more (fresh) water to the pitcher with the crystals at the bottom. Stirred vigorously for a minute and then let it sit overnight. The next morning the crystals were still there. Decided to get serious about this and poured the entire mixture into the blender. Ran it for about 30 seconds and then poured it back into the clean pitcher. A few minutes later....the crystals were back.

Decided to write V&B and ask them. The following (minus the Rep's name) is the exchange and may be helpful to those using V&B:

Old Toker: Having difficulty dissolving V&B. Whether I sprinkle it slowly into my reservoir, or into a mixing cup and stir it....there is always undissolved crystals at the bottom. They do NOT dissolve with time. Why are they not dissolving.....and how am I supposed to add this to my reservoir so that it ALL dissolves? Thanks!
V&B Rep: What base are you using?
Old Toker: RO/Soft which is what your company recommended for my 134 tds tap water.
V&B Rep: Its calcium, it falls out of suspension if the water is too cold, or if there is a lot of extra calcium present. Its inert and will not cause hotspots or lack of nutrient delivery, if your emitters are under 1/8th you may run into issues with clogging but aside from that its harmless. I find that if you use a recirc pump to throw it back into suspension before feeding it generally will just go out into the system passively. This is unfortunately a bi product of packing so much calcium in the product.
Old Toker: Thank you. BTW - my water temp is 69 degrees and I am using 1/4 open dripper lines. Do I even need to add this calcium residue to the reservoir? Can I just desolve the V&B in a separate container and pour only the desolved V&B into the reservoir?
V&B Rep: We advise against mixing the final volume of powder in a lesser vessel of water as this can cause chelate issues and more often than not will cause more particulate than if you were to mix it properly into the final volume of water. If you feel this is needed then I would recommend mixing 25g to five gallons(or whatever g/gal ratio you are currently using)and straining it with a fine mesh colander into your res until you reach your final volume in your res.
Old Toker:: Thank you.

Guess I'll just sprinkle it slowly in the reservoir and allow the recirc pump to mix it.

Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions. So far the plants look great (currently a little over 1.0 EC) and the Ph seems stable.:tiphat:
 

Aspenou812

Well-known member
Veteran
Still haven't been able to get V&B to completely desolve. Sprinkled a couple of teaspoons of V&B into a one gal glass pitcher of 69 degree water and stirred it for few minutes. Still had the crystals on the bottom of the pitcher. Drained the liquid off the top into the reservoir and added more (fresh) water to the pitcher with the crystals at the bottom. Stirred vigorously for a minute and then let it sit overnight. The next morning the crystals were still there. Decided to get serious about this and poured the entire mixture into the blender. Ran it for about 30 seconds and then poured it back into the clean pitcher. A few minutes later....the crystals were back.

Decided to write V&B and ask them. The following (minus the Rep's name) is the exchange and may be helpful to those using V&B:

Old Toker: Having difficulty dissolving V&B. Whether I sprinkle it slowly into my reservoir, or into a mixing cup and stir it....there is always undissolved crystals at the bottom. They do NOT dissolve with time. Why are they not dissolving.....and how am I supposed to add this to my reservoir so that it ALL dissolves? Thanks!
V&B Rep: What base are you using?
Old Toker: RO/Soft which is what your company recommended for my 134 tds tap water.
V&B Rep: Its calcium, it falls out of suspension if the water is too cold, or if there is a lot of extra calcium present. Its inert and will not cause hotspots or lack of nutrient delivery, if your emitters are under 1/8th you may run into issues with clogging but aside from that its harmless. I find that if you use a recirc pump to throw it back into suspension before feeding it generally will just go out into the system passively. This is unfortunately a bi product of packing so much calcium in the product.
Old Toker: Thank you. BTW - my water temp is 69 degrees and I am using 1/4 open dripper lines. Do I even need to add this calcium residue to the reservoir? Can I just desolve the V&B in a separate container and pour only the desolved V&B into the reservoir?
V&B Rep: We advise against mixing the final volume of powder in a lesser vessel of water as this can cause chelate issues and more often than not will cause more particulate than if you were to mix it properly into the final volume of water. If you feel this is needed then I would recommend mixing 25g to five gallons(or whatever g/gal ratio you are currently using)and straining it with a fine mesh colander into your res until you reach your final volume in your res.
Old Toker:: Thank you.

Guess I'll just sprinkle it slowly in the reservoir and allow the recirc pump to mix it.

Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions. So far the plants look great (currently a little over 1.0 EC) and the Ph seems stable.:tiphat:

My res has a mixing mode i can close one valve and open another then the solution is pumped back into the res at a very high rate of speed completely spinning the mixture.....

the solution goes through a Y filter before being sprayed back out...I fill with 15 gallons of ro water, put the res into mixing mode and dump a spoon full in, about 2 minutes later i check the ec and repeat till i'm where i need to be. I have a lot of calcium in my water.... Every faucet in my house has calcium deposits i have to constantly scrub off.....I have to change the filter on my washing machine every year..... from Calcium build up....... and my V+B Dissolves and mixes completely in 5 minutes...... Is your water moving as you add the V+B I always wait to add the V+B until the res is mixing like crazy and it never hits the bottom of the RES...
 

Old Toker

Well-known member
My res has a mixing mode i can close one valve and open another then the solution is pumped back into the res at a very high rate of speed completely spinning the mixture.....

the solution goes through a Y filter before being sprayed back out....
I have a similar "mixing mode" on my rez. Close the valve to the manifold and open the one pointing back into the rez. However my Y filter is after my valves and is in line to the manifold. Hopefully whatever calcium doesn't dissolve will get caught by the Y filter before entering the manifold.

Your plants look great Aspen! :tiphat:
 

soundman

Member
maxi grow for veg, veg + bloom for flower.


I see this from others too. I would do the VB for veg and maxibloom for flowering. I have used VB for a few years and set my flowering records with Maxibloom.

Funny how different ways of using stuff can still put out quality product. I think nutes are way over thought and overpaid for.
 

Dollar

Active member
VB 1100ppm/2.2ec 28 days
picture.php
 

budelight

Discovery Requires Experimentation
Veteran
VB 1100ppm/2.2ec 28 days
View Image
Hey Dollar

That sounds pretty high, is your meter 700 conversion maybe?

Or are you growing in a cold lung room/basement?

I find that I have to feed higher EC of salt nutes in colder environments, than in warmer. Or better said, I need to feed higher levels in cold environments just to keep plants green. Might be a lockout thing...
 

saitama

Well-known member
Hey Dollar

That sounds pretty high, is your meter 700 conversion maybe?

Or are you growing in a cold lung room/basement?

I find that I have to feed higher EC of salt nutes in colder environments, than in warmer. Or better said, I need to feed higher levels in cold environments just to keep plants green. Might be a lockout thing...

I was wondering the same thing.
 

Dollar

Active member
Hey Dollar

That sounds pretty high, is your meter 700 conversion maybe?

Or are you growing in a cold lung room/basement?

I find that I have to feed higher EC of salt nutes in colder environments, than in warmer. Or better said, I need to feed higher levels in cold environments just to keep plants green. Might be a lockout thing...

.5 conversion in an 80 deg sealed room running CO2. Ebb and gro buckets with hydroton fed 4 times for 30 mins ea while lights on. I started at 500 in veg and the plants immediately yellowed under t5`s. bumped it up to 700 and they got their color back. Moved em to the flower room with Hps lights and they yellowed up again. Kept bumping up the nutes till they greened up. That's how I ended up at 1100. Theyre rocking and there isn't one burned tip or clawing. They look perfect.
 

GET MO

Registered Med User
Veteran
.5 conversion in an 80 deg sealed room running CO2. Ebb and gro buckets with hydroton fed 4 times for 30 mins ea while lights on. I started at 500 in veg and the plants immediately yellowed under t5`s. bumped it up to 700 and they got their color back. Moved em to the flower room with Hps lights and they yellowed up again. Kept bumping up the nutes till they greened up. That's how I ended up at 1100. Theyre rocking and there isn't one burned tip or clawing. They look perfect.

Im guessing its cuz the co2 allows the plants to eat more.
 

Dollar

Active member
Im guessing its cuz the co2 allows the plants to eat more.

You are right! My conditions are exact for VPD. I run super high humidity (70%) so the stomata are wide open allowing the plants to uptake much more CO2 and thus nutrients.
 

Dollar

Active member
This is the first time I`ve tried another nutrient line other than GH flora 3 part. Been using that for as long as I`ve been growing. I read every post in this thread twice before I decided to give VB a try. This is something I`ve learned over the years, what works for one does not work for another. There are so many dif variables in creating mother nature for a plant. I try and tell this to all the growers I mentor locally. They would never understand, they would only get it with many years of experience. If I followed most here in this thread using completely dif mediums and environmental conditions than I, my plants would be struggling to stay alive.
 

Dollar

Active member
Hey Dollar

That sounds pretty high, is your meter 700 conversion maybe?

Or are you growing in a cold lung room/basement?

I find that I have to feed higher EC of salt nutes in colder environments, than in warmer. Or better said, I need to feed higher levels in cold environments just to keep plants green. Might be a lockout thing...

Exactly budelight! You know whats up! Colder environments require less feeds at higher concentrations. Warmer environments require more feeds at less concentrations.
 

saitama

Well-known member
Having what looks like a manganese def but I'm thinking it's due to lock out. Flushed them well today and hopefully it goes away.

White widow fem
Mid week 3 of flower mid week 4 of 12/12
.3 starting (RO and tap) .2 ec of shine .9 of VB RO and .4ml/gal of drip clean
pH always between 5.8 and 6.2
2 gal buckets fed 6 times daily to run off
50/50 Coco perlite cloud coir

They seem happy and healthy otherwise. I believe the yellowing is from light stress from it being too low initially and too intense (URSA optilux 16)

What do you guys think?
 

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