ThaMagnificent
Member
Really? I'm always nervous about sitting water, but I do run Hydroguard.
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any kiss users have exp. with veg+bloom
- Thread starter barneyfife1
- Start date
why ? as fast as it gets used up , it will be fine . if you get worried it sitting to long , do a rez change with fresh . V&B is very clean ! its all the stuff people add to it that fucks up a rez . in flower ... i ONLY use V&B , nothing else ! its not needed IMHO
I get a brown slime that grows in my rez and lines with V+B. I don't use anything except some AN ph up every few days. My rez and lines are black so it's not caused by light. Wish I knew what to add to stop this shit.
ThaMagnificent
Member
hydroguard? h2o2? pool shock?
brainzfuxed
Member
Stoned ever thought of running a UV filter in there? I don't think it might be the nutrients as much as it could be a bacteria in the water. Nutrients could make the problem more prominent however. I believe from my research it's called Cyanobacteria
Ya I don't think it's the nutes as I got the same stuff with Canna A&B. I've tried both bleach and dutchmaster zone so far. Time to try something else I guess.
brainzfuxed
Member
This is one thing I struggled with around a res, have you read the thread Synpe posted a while back about the antibiotic he used called ethryomycin. Another alternative could be trying beneficials, and was recently debating buying this stuff called ultraclear sst. Food for thought buddy
Ya after reading about it for sure it's Cyanobacteria.
brainzfuxed
Member
Pondmaster 02920 20-Watt Ultra-Violet-Light Pond Water Clarifier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002DHFTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_h4jsyb7CNX7ZF
Food for thought or something similar
Food for thought or something similar
thats weird ! i've never had anything like that happen .
are you using Tap or well water ? i only use 0 water in my garden . RO/DI
Well water. It's a reddish brown slime. I'm sure it's cyanobacteria after reading about it. People with aquariums fight it a lot. I could add fish mox or Fish cin both of which are antibiotics but like with any antibiotics you stand the chance of making super slime, also I'm afraid it might kill beneficial bacteria in the coco and roots. It grows best in nutrient rich water that is not moving constantly. My pump only comes on about 10 times per day for 15 minutes each time.
brainzfuxed
Member
Hey stoned,
I've done a bunch of reading on this when I was trying to get an ex cloner to work so maybe I can share some high level information with you. If you already know, great but if not maybe you will find it useful:
1) there's two ways of fighting this- either running a sterile Rez or a live Rez (where the beneficials feed on the bad bacteria)
2) I followed the pool shock recipe and have heard it's way underdosed (and plants are very tolerant of chlorine anyways), best practice being to buy a chlorine meter and ensure you have anywhere from 2ppm of chlorine up to 4ppm max.
3) once it's in your water supply reservoir it's pretty damn near impossible to just ignore it, it has to be dealt with and will always return easier now
4) cold temps help a little from my understanding
5) after researching a lot on aquarium website forums it seems like most of them either deal with it and keep it in check by maintaining a UV filter and/or antibiotic treatment.
If you find out a cure please do share
Best thing for your ez cloner is enzyme treatments.
I read somebody talk about Z7 by Flying Skull and I gave it a go.
It's a very concentrated 2 part formula used at .5ml/gallon.
I add it to my ez cloner every 3-4 days and go months in between changeouts now.
It's the best thing for keeping snot and rot at bay.
I read somebody talk about Z7 by Flying Skull and I gave it a go.
It's a very concentrated 2 part formula used at .5ml/gallon.
I add it to my ez cloner every 3-4 days and go months in between changeouts now.
It's the best thing for keeping snot and rot at bay.
ThaMagnificent
Member
Right now I'm running V+B Soft, Push, Hydroguard, and Mammoth P
I've been using filters now to keep it out of my 1/2" and 3mm lines. Filters around the pumps also to keep them running. Not like I have to battle this shit everyday. Every few weeks I flush the lines and every two months or so I drain the two 30 and one 5 gal rez and clean them out by hand. The majority of the slime likes to stick to walls and not float. Only 2 or 3 times has it actually worked it's way to the blumat and stopped it from flowing. No biggie, life is full of slime things you have to remove every so often. If it ain't one thing it's another.
Nice Stoned and you're right....... Keep on rocking it
Dose anyone have any pictures of a V+B Dirty Grow? i would like to see it in action before i flower my little ladies.........
Dose anyone have any pictures of a V+B Dirty Grow? i would like to see it in action before i flower my little ladies.........
Bwanabud
Active member
I've been using filters now to keep it out of my 1/2" and 3mm lines. Filters around the pumps also to keep them running. Not like I have to battle this shit everyday. Every few weeks I flush the lines and every two months or so I drain the two 30 and one 5 gal rez and clean them out by hand. The majority of the slime likes to stick to walls and not float. Only 2 or 3 times has it actually worked it's way to the blumat and stopped it from flowing. No biggie, life is full of slime things you have to remove every so often. If it ain't one thing it's another.
I have the exact same problem, a brownish tea develops in my drip lines and plugs up my Blumat drippers. I use Drip Clean and Clorox, and it still develops 3-4 days after rez filling. I've cleaned the rez's, triple filter water, and re-fill rez every 4-5 days.
I also have well water(120 PPM), using Canna A+B base...but switching to Maxibloom powder hoping it fixes the issue. I use GH 2 part in my veg rez's and have zero problems ?, may have to go the ultraviolet route if this continues...concerned about the pool shock method.
I use circulator pumps on cycle timers in the rez's, on 5minutes/off 60 minutes with foam filters on them...and keep the water cool 60-65 F. The rez's are in a dark room, black in color with lids, and wrapped with insulation.
My real problem is the algae plugs the 3mm lines, then the plants get deficiencies from lack of water(controlled by Blumat sensors)...every 2 days or so have to bleed each pots lines and drippers to clear the brown shit, then they drip perfect. May just eliminate the drippers and go straight tube drip as suggested, but will clean entire system at the end of this run with a strong mix of hydrogen peroxide...like 5 parts water-1 part H2O2
I'm stumped for a solution
This is from an article on drinking water that talks about slime.
http://articles.extension.org/pages/31555/drinking-water-contaminant-iron-and-manganese-bacteria
A problem that frequently results from iron or manganese in water is iron or manganese bacteria. These non-pathogenic (non-health threatening) bacteria feed on iron and manganese in water, forming red-brown (iron) or black-brown (manganese) slime
The most common approach to control iron and manganese bacteria is shock chlorination. It is almost impossible to kill all the iron and manganese bacteria in a system. In most cases, they will grow back eventually and the shock chlorination procedure will most likely need to be repeated from time to time. If bacteria regrowth is rapid, repeated shock chlorination becomes time consuming. Continuous application of low levels of chlorine may be more effective. Because chlorine changes dissolved iron into oxidized iron that will precipitate, a filter may be needed to remove oxidized iron if continuous chlorination is used to control iron bacteria.
http://articles.extension.org/pages/31555/drinking-water-contaminant-iron-and-manganese-bacteria
A problem that frequently results from iron or manganese in water is iron or manganese bacteria. These non-pathogenic (non-health threatening) bacteria feed on iron and manganese in water, forming red-brown (iron) or black-brown (manganese) slime
The most common approach to control iron and manganese bacteria is shock chlorination. It is almost impossible to kill all the iron and manganese bacteria in a system. In most cases, they will grow back eventually and the shock chlorination procedure will most likely need to be repeated from time to time. If bacteria regrowth is rapid, repeated shock chlorination becomes time consuming. Continuous application of low levels of chlorine may be more effective. Because chlorine changes dissolved iron into oxidized iron that will precipitate, a filter may be needed to remove oxidized iron if continuous chlorination is used to control iron bacteria.
