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cork144
heh mate, no reason to get it scientific, just the effects on your plants, thats all a grower needs to understand.
Wow, you have a keen eye bro! Yes, my res lid is warping, I even gave it a 1/4 inch plexi skeleton to try to avoid the warp. It's just an unfortunate property of acrylic to warp. It's not the heat, never even warm to the touch as the PL-L's don't radiate heat like HID's do. The stuff just warps with time. I have protien skimmers on reef tanks that are made of acrylic, exposed to no heat and the lids are warped too. They only warp a little and stop, I believe my res is done warping. I would like to think those roots are bending the res but that's just not the case...
i understand that the bigger your sump the biiger the air pump needed, but how do you figure the correct size? sorry if this seems like a simple question.
does a whisper 10 seem like it would work for a reservoir of your size attatched to 4 bubble wands?
Yes a Whisper 10 is a very nice air pump for a micro grow, that's what I used on my last run.
I tried to upload a pic update but it keeps saying upload failed!! LOL I'll try later..........
Hey Aero, do you have any other tips like that? A while back, freezerboy made a thread and it was going to detail how to grow a dwc plant with very hot res temps. From memory I think they were hotter than 85 temps even. From what I could work out, he was thinking maybe the fact that the air pump was intaking hot air inside the cab, this could have been the contributing factor to making it work, crazy as it sounds. Then I believe the weather cooled up and so I never saw it again. Do you have any thoughts on this, or other ways to make a dwc work in high temps? I've seen mention of hydrogen peroxide, would that help?
Yes, I do have some tricks for maintaining a hot res. We all know it's better to have cooler res temps but you can manage to pull off a grow with 80-90f res temps if you have to. People tend to assume that if a res gets over 75f (23.8C), it will hold little oxygen but that's not true, you can get plenty of dissolved O2 in a warmer res. It's more likely to get some bad bacteria, mold, slime algea, ect, this is partly caused by less O2 in the res but mostly by light leaks and contaminents.
Some helpful things in a warm res are:
--No light leaks to the res at all including covering net pot media with foil.
--H2O2 (hydrogen peroxide) added to the res water. 5ml per gallon 35% H2O2 not the 3% you get at drug stores.
--No additives (keep the nutes basic) Avoid nutes that are heavy and cloud the res water.
--Blast the crap out of the res with air, I mean overkill with bubbles (they heat the water less than power heads)
--Frequent water changes.
If I missed anything feel free to post.
Here is a chart that shows plenty of dissolved O2 even at 90F (32C)
Look at the difference between 23C and 32C, not that much really.
Now for an update on the flowering, they are ready for a tuck under the screen today.
Yes, I need some way to measure current from the wall, and a way to measure light intensity to make this more scientific. If I don't get those tools sometime soon, we will have to judge by the buds I suppose.. The light is alot more intense than the two on either side, I feel this will justify the increase in heat based on my eyes...lol
You can buy a kill-o-watt for around $30-$40 to measure power and you could get one of those cheap-o analog light meter's from home depot or your local equivalent for like $10, but not sure it would be accurate enough for you. You could also pickup one of those photography light meters, I've seen cheap ones for $30-$40. Good luck, I'd like to see the results.