Advancing Eco Agriculture, Product Science

[TheOutlawTree]

"Nutra-Live Growth and Vitality products which are the same as the Special Blends A and B respectively.
PHT K to supplement potassium to the blends at 1-2 qt. per acre rates foliar or fertigation, weekly.
Other Products you should consider:
Rejuvenate
Sea Stim
Sea Shield
PHT Bloom
Pepzyme Clear
Micro 5000, foliar biological
PZ 1000 foliar biological
Spectrum Extra Soil biological
Micogenesis Soil Biological."

Still... I am a little confused and really wish there was more information out there on feeding schedules etc. This is something i need to do more research on, i've just been really busy lately. I need to get it figured out sooner than later though, i think once i make my order i will recieve more info from AEA themselves..but for now im just another tire kicker

All the Tainio products recomended can, and should be bought through AEA. I was a dumb ass and called tainio asking where i can buy there stuff, before i realized it was on AEA's site and there a dealer.

 

[maxmurder]

i ordered some nutra-live this week and was confused by the instructions so i asked for a mils/ounces per gallon and my salesman had to get back to me, he emailed back and said - "NutriLive should be applied at 2-3 oz. per 1000 square feet. As mentioned it is beneficial to use more Vitality at seedling and flowering stages and more Growth at frame build and fruit fill."

 

[cannascholar]

You can safely exceed 2-3 oz per 1000 ft, its around 300 ppm at 4 ml each bottle per gal, you can feed that everytime depending on your soil and go up from there.

 

[leadsled]

i didn't see that but they have the "planters solution" which is :
pht phos
sea stim
rejuvenate
photo mag
micro pak

all mixed together

the smallest size container is 5 gallons which is like 25 bucks cheaper than buying the 5- 1 gallon containers.

i got my new soil tests back but they are sideways and i don't know how to rotate once the get imported- they're rightside up on my ipod and when i import to the photos on my computer.

i don't get the sat paste but i think the soil report looks pretty good, anyone have opinions?

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=63220&pictureid=1571291&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=63220&pictureid=1571289&thumb=1]View Image[/url] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=63220&pictureid=1571288&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

Lab number 216. Needs some manganese and zinc. Will take little bit of time to analyze all the tests and the h20 recommendations.

You need some amendment recommendations?
What size pots and or beds you using?

 

[maxmurder]

the 6'x40'x1' beds (2 of them) were mixed with :

last years dirt which was 6" of coco, perlite and peat bagged stuff.
then this year i added another 2x6 all the way around the beds and added:

150 cf of ball (peat, forest humis and something for pH)
3/4 yard of lava rock
2 totes of worms and poo (supposed to be yards but looked smaller to me)
2 bags dynagro neem
2 bags kelp (down to earth?)
2 bags dte crab meal
3 bags gypsum
3 bags azomite
4 bags oyster shell flour
4 bags glacial rock dust

all split between the 2 beds. watered em real good and let bed 2 sit for about 10 days then planted, bed 1 was planted about 10 days later. bed 2 has been getting covered 12/12 for 16 days and bed 1 just started lastnite.
the water is "city" water with a ton of chlorine - i have a whole house filter that it goes thru then i bubble it at least 24 hrs.
last wed (last sunny day we had) i watered with the above aea products at 4 mil per gal and they fucking loved it.
i just don't really understand how long all of these amendments take to break down so the plants just need water. the clones were about a foot tall when i planted.
i tried a coots mix i got online indoors and my plants look like hammered dogshit until i started giving them the same micro bloom calmag that all my other indoor gets, that's just my 1 light exparamentation station so no big loss but the 3 deps this year need to be really good and i just want a balanced soil with healthy hi brix plants
(at lest 12).
oh yeah when i watered in at planting i mixed in pepc at 1 mpg and mycogenesis at 0.2
teaspoons per gallon with some molass after bubbling of 2 days.
thanks for taking the time leadsled..

 

[maxmurder]

i got this email today-

"Your soil is missing something...
And, , what it lacks is preventing your farm from reaching its nutritional and financial potential.

Mineral deficiencies are a common problem on American farms. Plants grown in soils lacking proper mineral nutrition can’t reach their inherent yield potential, are more vulnerable to insects and disease, and fall short of agricultural profitability.

We are having a 5% off welcome sale March 22, 23, and 24, on these products for new customers! If you are a new customer, take advantage of what our soil building products, Rejuvenate, SeaShield, and Spectrum can achieve on your farm!

Our team will be happy to answer any questions about our products or this sale. Go ahead and call! The soil on your farm is waiting expectantly. ;-)

800-495-6603
Sale Prices Good Three Days Only! Call Now!"

 

[oct]

^ Thanks for the heads up max.

I was gonna order just the NutraLive because I'm not familiar with the products but have been paying attention and reading through here. NutraLive seemed like a safe bet. I'm having a few plants show micro deficiencies but don't have the keen eye to distinguish exactly what I'm lacking.

But I'd be into getting whatever really if somebody could point me in the direction of what products canna farmers mainly use. Theres a lot of products and I wasn't really sure what to choose from.

Any particular sales rep I should show some love to when I order?

 

[leadsled]

the 6'x40'x1' beds (2 of them) were mixed with :

last years dirt which was 6" of coco, perlite and peat bagged stuff.
then this year i added another 2x6 all the way around the beds and added:

150 cf of ball (peat, forest humis and something for pH)
3/4 yard of lava rock
2 totes of worms and poo (supposed to be yards but looked smaller to me)
2 bags dynagro neem
2 bags kelp (down to earth?)
2 bags dte crab meal
3 bags gypsum
3 bags azomite
4 bags oyster shell flour
4 bags glacial rock dust

all split between the 2 beds. watered em real good and let bed 2 sit for about 10 days then planted, bed 1 was planted about 10 days later. bed 2 has been getting covered 12/12 for 16 days and bed 1 just started lastnite.
the water is "city" water with a ton of chlorine - i have a whole house filter that it goes thru then i bubble it at least 24 hrs.
last wed (last sunny day we had) i watered with the above aea products at 4 mil per gal and they fucking loved it.
i just don't really understand how long all of these amendments take to break down so the plants just need water. the clones were about a foot tall when i planted.
i tried a coots mix i got online indoors and my plants look like hammered dogshit until i started giving them the same micro bloom calmag that all my other indoor gets, that's just my 1 light exparamentation station so no big loss but the 3 deps this year need to be really good and i just want a balanced soil with healthy hi brix plants
(at lest 12).
oh yeah when i watered in at planting i mixed in pepc at 1 mpg and mycogenesis at 0.2
teaspoons per gallon with some molass after bubbling of 2 days.
thanks for taking the time leadsled..

Hey. Been super busy.you're saturated paste shows elevated sodium and or potassium combined with low levels of available calcium. the foliar sprays with calcium will help out.

The sodium and potassium is much more available than calcium and that can cause the plants to yellow out and get stunted.

Make sure you are keeping the soil moist and not letting it dry out. Also apply the spectrum extra + pepzyme c to get the sodium levels down.

Make sure the potassium level do not drop below the sodium levels. Ideally will get the sodium level to drop and that will also help to reduce the ph in the soil and help give a more ideal home for the biology to thrive.

weekly foliar spray/drench of the aea/tainio or kelp, fish and molasses + compost extract

( aea/ tainio:sea stim, sea shield, rejuvenate + pepzyme-c and sprectrum extra)

The foliar will help the plants exude more sugars from the root which will help to get the biology in the soil going.

Your irrigation water ideally could use some sulfuric acid to bring down the bicarbonate levels. They are going to build up in the medium. Alk calc will give you the needed amount to add to the water to make it more suitable for irrigation.

That is the quick and simple run down. without the amendment recommendations per yard.


Hope that helps.

 

[milkyjoe]

Hey lead...you ever see any real evidence of myco infection of the roots in these lightweight, high P mixes? And true dreadlock roots?

I have not. I intend to use Trichoderma instead of myco in my high P mixes this summer and maybe even jump start roots with ammonium phosphate in my planting feed. We will see what we see.

 

[oct]

Just so you guys know if your trying to order and you live in Oregon, theres a temporary hold on all products from AEA going to that state. Some technicality with AEA's wording and the oregon dep of Ag. 4-6 weeks is my estimated arrival time for the products I just ordered.

 

[HL45]

Oregon has the strictest labelling laws. Thanks for the heads up Oct!

 

[milkyjoe]

https://customhydronutrients.com/ze...in_description=1&keyword=Vansil+W+10&x=28&y=6

A shameless plug for my buddy at chn.

But, this stuff is 34% Ca and 51.5% SiO2. It can be used in place of lime (different %s Ca so do the math). My goal is to try to achieve 50 ppm Si on a logan test. It also happens to be the grind used in Resilience.

No doubt it would be best to sneak up over time on the number as I have no experience...yet.

 

[neverforget4/20]

There is a calcium silicate product called crossover that is used for turf I checked it out and my tests were inconclusive. The rep told me it would be plant available in 2-4 weeks. I didnt realize any obvious benefit with this product. My soil was measured at 4400# Ca / acre. The added C wasn't needed and may have effected results.

Just judging by observation and a few outcomes I feel that the OSA 28 product is very effective in providing plant available silicon. It has the added benefit of not fucking much with pH or K content. Also it's a good value because of extreme dilution .6ml to gal.

 

[Foreverfamily]

thinking about getting forage foliar blend...
whats the dosage per gallon?

2ml per gallon?

thanks!

 

[cannascholar]

I'd start around 10ml or so and go up, especially if outdoors. It's 40% pht phos, 40% photomag, 10 micro, 10 stim.

 

[Foreverfamily]

Thanks cannascholar! What about when foliar feeding with sea shield? I've read some say 1-2ml per gallon while others say 15ml-47ml. Which seems like a huge difference.

I'm in the process of putting together a complete foliar spray for my outdoor this year...
Here is what I came up with so far:
Forage foliar blend, micro5000, sea shield, pepzyme, cal-25, and ppd

Also looking into ferti nitro and nutra min mountain minerals.

Any input is much appreciated!

 

[milkyjoe]

If you are looking at CA25 as a Calcium supplement bad news. It is hard to measure a Ca uptake after spraying this stuff. University of Iowa found CaCl to be pretty worthless as a Ca source, Horiba meters confirm this. The Triacontal in it may, or may not be of help.

If you go real high Sea Shield for foliar you are already getting 5% Ca. If you want to go low Sea Shield then I would use one of the amino chelated Ca products. They show a much better response on the meter...so Albion or JH Biotech.

Do not spray Sea Shield within two weeks of harvest. At least in food the shell fish can cause allergic reactions in people who are so inclined.

PPD, Ferti Nitro, Sea Shield all provide enzymatically digested protein...so aminos and maybe peptides. I go lower Sea Shield for foliar, heavy for fertigated and I keep a bag of Ferti Nitro around for emergency situations. Having all 3 seems excessive to me.

The Forage blend provides micros, spraying another source (nutra min) could be excessive.

On the micro 5000...if you alternate it with PZ1000 there are benefits for protein synthesis in the plant. So wk 1 micro 5000, wk 2 PZ 1000, wk 3 micro 5000 and so on.

Hope that is helpful

 

[Foreverfamily]

Thanks milkyjoe,
Should i still keep the ferti nitro around and alternate with sea shield? or should i skip the ferti nitro all together and up the dosage on sea shield to 1oz/per gallon for foliar?


Also whats the foliar dosage rate for pz1000? Im about 1/2 thru this thread!

much apperciated!

 

[milkyjoe]

I would not go to 1 ounce per gallon Sea Shield for foliar...I am in the 4 ml range.

I do not spray Ferti Nitro on a weekly basis, only when I see an actual need. I feel, for the quality of the plants, it is better to be a little bit behind on N than overdoing it

It all comes down to how good is your soil and ion balance more than amount of ions. Go too high on anything and you block something else.

I don't use Forage Blend but basically I replace the pht-p with Sea Shield plus I add Albion Metalosate Ca at 6 grams per gallon. I may also add individual micros when I know I am short...Mn or Zn mostly.

Basically with foliar I am looking to improve protein synthesis in the plant and jack up photosynthesis. I am not looking to feed the plant


edit...amino chelated Ca shows a better response on the Ca meter than either pht p or ca. And there may well be a new tech out there that is even better...but the amino stuff will work great for you

 

[Foreverfamily]

thanks! pm sent