i was just told to leave the guts and squished bodies of the cucumber beetles on the leaves, it puts off a pheromone that other beetles don't like and will avoid the area. old hippy shit but the hippies were usually right about most shit
-
ICMag and The Vault are running a NEW contest in October! You can check it here. Prizes are seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!
Advancing Eco Agriculture, Product Science
- Thread starter FatherEarth
- Start date
i was just told to leave the guts and squished bodies of the cucumber beetles on the leaves, it puts off a pheromone that other beetles don't like and will avoid the area. old hippy shit but the hippies were usually right about most shit
C
Cep
Great post. So the urea becomes ammonium in the tissue? All of the soil analyses I've had done show low ammonium except early in the year when the soil temp is cooler and the bacteria aren't converting it to nitrate. I've tried hypercap on indoor and a few plants outdoor but Milky is the one who has more experience with it.
great fuckin idea but i am no longer allowed to use the juicer after i fucked our last one up a few years ago when i was going to cure everything with cbd juiced leaves and somehow broke that one.
i got my new pen today and have a brix of 11 and a ph of 6.8
i bought some whey protein powdered this should lower ph?
(stupid question) i always lower my ph to 5.8-6.0 before feeding cuz the majority of my media is coco and perlite, does lowering the ph of nutritution lower sap ph?
just tryin to learn here.
Your pH is high because the soil is slightly overloaded, and if its coco I'd bet potassium is in excess. From what I've seen its hard to drop overloaded soils in one season. It can be done with elemental sulfur but people say it can be hard on microbes. Furthermore, changing sap pH by dropping nutrient pH will take time or a huge volume of pH'd nutrients. Think of how many lb.'s of cations are in the soil vs lb.'s of acid in nutrients. Each acid will donate 1 or 2 H+ ions that each free up one Ca/Mg/K atom… What I'm getting at is that there isn't that much acid in a typical nutrient solution. I've been using N-phuric in my water to reduce bicarbonate and just 1 ounce of the stuff takes 50 gallons of well water from pH 7.4 to pH 3.5-4 and my sap pH has still gotten a little too high in the last three weeks.
Also got my keystone media tested a month ago just was lazy posting this:
I'm not really pleased with it. It is way overloaded and I did a trial with straight keystone against 50/50 keystone/black gold mix +Ca and the 50/50 mix was much better.
I guess the main thing that irritates me is that when ordering direct from pennsylvania the main guy there sent me a 3 year old analysis with good albrecht numbers. I asked for a recent analysis and they didn't have one and didn't really want to retest so I asked if they produce consistent base cation saturations to which he replied "yes, our mix is very consistent". Well, there is a big difference in the 6%K saturation in their analysis that they like to send to people and the 11%K saturation that is in my mix. They do have good micronutrient numbers though.
Cep...are you using bg with resilience? 7 lbs Ca on top of that? Do you use any gypsum or all co3? Kelp? Any other protein?
Indo I am torn between bg and a mix with maybe 3 cf compost...2 worm power and 1 oly mountain.
The bg is just so convenient and I am not sure I see enough diff to matter
I also use 20 lbs zeolite per yard. It holds nh4 on its cec sites so I get a nice even nitrate release...least I think it does
Indo I am torn between bg and a mix with maybe 3 cf compost...2 worm power and 1 oly mountain.
The bg is just so convenient and I am not sure I see enough diff to matter
I also use 20 lbs zeolite per yard. It holds nh4 on its cec sites so I get a nice even nitrate release...least I think it does
C
Cep
No I think it was the regular organic bg. Curious how much Si they are adding, probably just ksil though. I added about 5 lbs gypsum/yard of the bg in the mix, wanted it available quick. Also added about 5 lbs of fish bone meal and 1 lb of alfalfa off the top of my head.
With that compost/casting/oly mix you'll prob have way better micro numbers than you'd see with the bg, but we spray a ton of micros anyway so convenience may trump that.
Ever have the zeolite analysed? I suppose if there is a bunch of n on it, you just use pepzyme when you need more?
With that compost/casting/oly mix you'll prob have way better micro numbers than you'd see with the bg, but we spray a ton of micros anyway so convenience may trump that.
Ever have the zeolite analysed? I suppose if there is a bunch of n on it, you just use pepzyme when you need more?
I know this is wrong...I use it with no added N. Straight bear river zeolite. Then about 15 lbs alfalfa meal...cause I like the protozoa response. With lots of bacteria from tanio the nitrification process starts quickly. The first step nh4...which is then captured on the cec sites and released like any other cation over time at which point it is oxidized to nitrate and taken up.
Or at least that's what I think happens. What I can say for sure is I get rock steady ec for a long time.
So don't jump in...but if you got a pot to experiment on me buddy at custom hydro may have a bag or two
Or at least that's what I think happens. What I can say for sure is I get rock steady ec for a long time.
So don't jump in...but if you got a pot to experiment on me buddy at custom hydro may have a bag or two
C
Cep
Cool, I wonder what portion of the cec is NH4 then. I've never added dry KSil if thats what you mean. Just dilute in the drip.
Hey guys super cool thread. I love getting down to the numbers for growing really healthy plants.
I was fortunate enough to be at the conference you all talk about. I met John and talked a little with me.
I was reading through the thread and I wanted to share some of my thought on John, his line and soil. I'll be honest I didn't read it all prob the first 20 then every 5 or so and then the last 10.
FatherEarth and Milkyjoe mad props great plants
I was fortunate enough to be at the conference you all talk about. I met John and talked a little with me.
I was reading through the thread and I wanted to share some of my thought on John, his line and soil. I'll be honest I didn't read it all prob the first 20 then every 5 or so and then the last 10.
FatherEarth and Milkyjoe mad props great plants
Shit wasent done with posting.
There are others also that have great skills. Awesome all of you.
I thought John was a great guy. At first I thought only the best because he was a Ahmish dude who was very humble. The whole room of farmers I was with were blown away buy his talks. Truly awesome. The problems I had was he repped his product like mad. It is great stuff, great concept but from my understanding it is not his idea. He seams to be in it for the money not just the soil.
He has been fortunate enough to be taken under the wing of some of the greatest agronomist of our time. Bruce Tanio, Charles Walters, Jerry Nrunetti and Carey Reams if I'm not mistaken. Most of his ideas are from their years of hard work. Not down playing his knowlage or way of putting it out there, its just that you guys should explore works of the other great soil dudes as well.
You wants some science in agriculture check out Carey Reams. One far out dude he doesn't have many works but his students (Arden Anderson, Dan Skow) are continuing his work.
Gramme Sait is another to check out if anyone haesnt. Fucking genius. I was able to hear him speak any a different soil and nutrition conference. I told him about sprout teas and he thought was genius.
I have heard that Kempf has fallen under bad graces in the ag community. I have heard someone else was making his line for him and has decided not to anymore. I could be wrong but who knows.
The part of the confrencre I liked best was with Dan Kitterage. He spoke about all the same ways of applying the science with out gymicky bottles. All the bottles are is commonly found soil amendments. The one that I see that could be good is the micronized leonardite, buy then again you could also go the Bio Ag route which might be better who knows?
Sorry goint to do a third post so I don't lose this my phone blows for posting.
There are others also that have great skills. Awesome all of you.
I thought John was a great guy. At first I thought only the best because he was a Ahmish dude who was very humble. The whole room of farmers I was with were blown away buy his talks. Truly awesome. The problems I had was he repped his product like mad. It is great stuff, great concept but from my understanding it is not his idea. He seams to be in it for the money not just the soil.
He has been fortunate enough to be taken under the wing of some of the greatest agronomist of our time. Bruce Tanio, Charles Walters, Jerry Nrunetti and Carey Reams if I'm not mistaken. Most of his ideas are from their years of hard work. Not down playing his knowlage or way of putting it out there, its just that you guys should explore works of the other great soil dudes as well.
You wants some science in agriculture check out Carey Reams. One far out dude he doesn't have many works but his students (Arden Anderson, Dan Skow) are continuing his work.
Gramme Sait is another to check out if anyone haesnt. Fucking genius. I was able to hear him speak any a different soil and nutrition conference. I told him about sprout teas and he thought was genius.
I have heard that Kempf has fallen under bad graces in the ag community. I have heard someone else was making his line for him and has decided not to anymore. I could be wrong but who knows.
The part of the confrencre I liked best was with Dan Kitterage. He spoke about all the same ways of applying the science with out gymicky bottles. All the bottles are is commonly found soil amendments. The one that I see that could be good is the micronized leonardite, buy then again you could also go the Bio Ag route which might be better who knows?
Sorry goint to do a third post so I don't lose this my phone blows for posting.
Last edited:
For instance he talks about the use of Ca and P during Frame build so when I go into flower I hit them with 1/2 cup calphos, 1 tsp gal sul po mag, 1 tlbs gal seacrop and a 1 gram of borax in 5 gal of water. I feel that covers Any thing needed and also Carey Reams talks about the battery of the soil. Reaction between Ca in the soil and calphos couse a strong charge..
I know someone posted a per gallon dilution chart but at the conference he was
pretty adimit about using a 2% solution. Or around 2 oz a gal. Of his products. Tanio and some are others are different.
I'm not here to talk shit. I admire what you guys are doing and plan on heading that way. I honestly have never done a soil test. I build my soil with the albrecth ratios in mind but relay heavly on good humus.
I float some where in the middle. I appreciate what proppee humus can do but also realize what a well balanced soil can do. I find the middle to be the sweet spot. I like the way Steve Soloman approaches it.
I'm getting my sea legs with a soil recipe I have developed from many schools of thought. The main one thing you can't get enough Ca. I LOVE Carbonatite and use it all the time. Every mulch consist of a variety of nutrient accumulator plants and a handful of Carbonatite. I can say my plants can't be happier. The worms are super happy to.
Sorry now I'm just rambling. You guys are doing great just my thoughts. I personally hate be a slave to anything I can't find in nature, and all of this can be found in nature.
Timbuktu
I know someone posted a per gallon dilution chart but at the conference he was
pretty adimit about using a 2% solution. Or around 2 oz a gal. Of his products. Tanio and some are others are different.
I'm not here to talk shit. I admire what you guys are doing and plan on heading that way. I honestly have never done a soil test. I build my soil with the albrecth ratios in mind but relay heavly on good humus.
I float some where in the middle. I appreciate what proppee humus can do but also realize what a well balanced soil can do. I find the middle to be the sweet spot. I like the way Steve Soloman approaches it.
I'm getting my sea legs with a soil recipe I have developed from many schools of thought. The main one thing you can't get enough Ca. I LOVE Carbonatite and use it all the time. Every mulch consist of a variety of nutrient accumulator plants and a handful of Carbonatite. I can say my plants can't be happier. The worms are super happy to.
Sorry now I'm just rambling. You guys are doing great just my thoughts. I personally hate be a slave to anything I can't find in nature, and all of this can be found in nature.
Timbuktu
Last edited:
today i uncovered and found some really small spots of pm.
today is my weekly aea soil drench day, all i've been giving em is h20, fulvic acid and molasses since last weeks aea.
plus 2 aea foliars with atomizer.
the plants are 18 days into a 55-60 day flower.
this last week was sunny but smokey from all the fires but today is foggy.
my sap ph is 6.6 and brix is down to 6 (fuzzy line). took readings a half hour from uncover. a few days ago my ph was 6.8 and brix was 12.
if the fog doesn't burn off i won't need to water/feed.
any suggestions?
today is my weekly aea soil drench day, all i've been giving em is h20, fulvic acid and molasses since last weeks aea.
plus 2 aea foliars with atomizer.
the plants are 18 days into a 55-60 day flower.
this last week was sunny but smokey from all the fires but today is foggy.
my sap ph is 6.6 and brix is down to 6 (fuzzy line). took readings a half hour from uncover. a few days ago my ph was 6.8 and brix was 12.
if the fog doesn't burn off i won't need to water/feed.
any suggestions?
Nitrate is most likely the problem. Crazy as it sounds I would cut out the molasses to slow down bacteria to slow down the reduction of nh4 to no3. You have enough minerals so you don't really need to solubalize those
Sprat with photomag to convert nitrate to protein
Sprat with photomag to convert nitrate to protein
A mix for a rooftop greenhouse from John Kempf I acquired.
Kempf's Mix
% of cubic yard
Peat 55%
Humifided Compost 15%
Coir 10%
Grain Hulls 20%
Lbs per cubic yard
Basalt 20
Greensand 30
Hi cal lime 10
Carbonatite 20
Kelp 20
Alfalfa 20
Humates 20
Dry Molasses 20
Zeolite 30
Cal-Phos 20
Dyna-min (high activity clay with good proportions of Ca,Mg,K,Na and traces, Similar to azomite) 10
K-mag 5
Traces in lbs per acre
Mo .25
Zn 10
Mn 15
Co 2
Cu 3
B 5
Fe 5
So i was thinking after I left if this is just a theoretical mix or it has been implemented yet. He told me it was meant for a rooftop garden with 6" of crushed shale underneath.
Kempf's Mix
% of cubic yard
Peat 55%
Humifided Compost 15%
Coir 10%
Grain Hulls 20%
Lbs per cubic yard
Basalt 20
Greensand 30
Hi cal lime 10
Carbonatite 20
Kelp 20
Alfalfa 20
Humates 20
Dry Molasses 20
Zeolite 30
Cal-Phos 20
Dyna-min (high activity clay with good proportions of Ca,Mg,K,Na and traces, Similar to azomite) 10
K-mag 5
Traces in lbs per acre
Mo .25
Zn 10
Mn 15
Co 2
Cu 3
B 5
Fe 5
So i was thinking after I left if this is just a theoretical mix or it has been implemented yet. He told me it was meant for a rooftop garden with 6" of crushed shale underneath.
RckyMtRdnk
Active member
Wow man! Your plants look amazing!
bamboogardner
Active member
AEA Nutri-Live for the win also. Was told basically it is the same as the rumored Biological Advantage which is on hold.
Last edited:
furrywall11
Member
Those look great, Bamboo! Man, I sure do miss growing trees outside..I get a little jelly when I see it. Having a good time with the greenhouse, though. I'm pretty sure the laws in Yuba county are going to shift back to either a nice plant count or something even better next year and, I'm really looking forward to trying a few things. What strain is giving you those early flowers??
Does anyone know offhand the per gallon soil drench amounts for Nutralive Vitality and Nutritive Growth?
Does anyone know offhand the per gallon soil drench amounts for Nutralive Vitality and Nutritive Growth?
