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Advancing Eco Agriculture, Product Science

maxmurder

Member
Veteran
They go up for a while until they dehydrate...then they die. Good for dick measuring...bad long term

Cut back on the ec of your nutes

sorry i wasn't clear, back on the 18th when i posted my 2.9 - 4.5 brix readings the plants had almost dried out, not drooping but way light. then today after a couple days of regular feeding the brix was way up (today). thanks milky
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
yea I was under the impression the fuzzy line was good.

means you had enough drinks to make it appear larger...

The dialed soil has yet to crest 12 brix, no foliar feeding yet... Insect pressure is still there... Whats your guess on the sap PH?
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
If you have the biology that is true. That is the biology trumps the pH and you can still take up base cations.

My opinion is our stupid high P is why we have to run highet soil pH for the right sap pH. I think once we get P down sap pH will move closer to soil pH.

About 5 drops of pepzyme per yard of dirt in the weekly fertigation is appreciated by the biology
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
Also simply foliar feed the base cations. If your soil is close and ypu pay attention you can bump sap pH. It is actually a great tool to determine weekly foliars.

I like gary r's advice to...little bit of micro, crop and stim every week. Keep enzyme levels up. Plus watch zn levels...every grow we see is def
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
Soil balanced

Soil balanced

gg4 clone planted directly into soil jul 7

picture.php


Lions Milk planted same time

picture.php


Cover Crop Covering Crop

picture.php


I think if I would have given the microbes a head start that the plants would be bigger and would have taken off more quickly.
I transplanted into dry soil and gave it its first watering with spectrum extra, rejuvenate, Pepzyme Clear, mycorrhizae, kelp extract and fulvic...

Still have not foliar fed except for one Ca25 application..
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
Watch the Na levels in your soil. In spite of fertigating weekly with sea crop and not using theextra every one of my grows soil tests shows lower Na, by quite a bit.

Unless my water was high Na I would be nervous with extra
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
the rep from tainio said they eat more than just Na... and they they can never deplete a soil of any salt...reduce yes but not remove. Im open to other opinions or study on the subject...
 

chef

Gene Mangler
Veteran
Hey fatherearth & milkyjoe :)
Been following your stuff for awhile, i need to get onboard.
I'm waiting on results from my first soil tests from Logan, sent in 3.
Any chance you guys could help interpret? :D
1 ea for 2 rows, that are coming off the rails a bit & 1 for my big plant. She could be happier too.
Also, are you familiar with the soil test interpretation book, from the Logan tech? Sounded good, I need to get up to speed!

Thx ;)
 

chef

Gene Mangler
Veteran
Post it up...more than happy to help if I can

Much appreciated! ;)
Should have results tomorrow. Looking forward to learning alot of the science, beyond just fixing these current issues.
Might have a few acres of dripped, wrapped/windrow'd Hemp next year. Gonna have to roll with native soil & I sure cant wing it on that one.
Time to get my geek on :D
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
same gg4

picture.php


Lions Milk covered by cover crop

picture.php

one application of Ca25, still no AEA foliar feeding.. only river water and balanced soil...


Notice the cover crop indicating a lack of water with yellowing in the first photo.. your cover crop is the first indicator when something is off... needs water? Soil not balanced? Insect pressure? The cover crop gets hit first. It retains moisture and keeps microbes and mycorrhizae alive. All while fixing nitrogen and building carbon in your soil... not to mention the root exudates that the cover crop feeds to the microbes, fueling nutrient cycling in your soil...No till with cover crop is a no brainer...

Someone got something negative to say about cover crops? please bring it here...



Slave to Photosynthesis,

FE
 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
same gg4

View Image

Lions Milk covered by cover crop

View Image
one application of Ca25, still no AEA foliar feeding.. only river water and balanced soil...


Notice the cover crop indicating a lack of water with yellowing in the first photo.. your cover crop is the first indicator when something is off... needs water? Soil not balanced? Insect pressure? The cover crop gets hit first. It retains moisture and keeps microbes and mycorrhizae alive. All while fixing nitrogen and building carbon in your soil... not to mention the root exudates that the cover crop feeds to the microbes, fueling nutrient cycling in your soil...No till with cover crop is a no brainer...

Someone got something negative to say about cover crops? please bring it here...



Slave to Photosynthesis,

FE

great post FE, would you mind describing how you establish your cover crops? do you plant them before or after the cannabis plant? all are raked in together or are they planted in sequence? is there a mulch over the cover crop just after planting or are they raked right into the top layer of soil?

also concerning the cover crop covering the plant... is that OK? do you trim back your cover crop when it gets that tall and grows into the branches of the cannabis canopy? my inclination would be to chop the tall grass / cover crop and lay the chopped parts on the surface of the soil.... or should all that go into compost bin or fed to worms?
thanks!
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
When Im wetting my soil and mounding it before planting I throw handfuls of clover oats and sometimes shade loving grass all over the surface, then I plant my clone, and water heavy. cover the seed with about 1/8" -1/4" of dirt...In about two days you should see the seeds sprouting.. water lightly every three days until well established. Its getting to 115F in the Greenhouse so I need to water the 100gal pots about every 3-4 days....
 

Avinash.miles

Caregiver Extraordinaire
Moderator
ICMag Donor
Veteran
When Im wetting my soil and mounding it before planting I throw handfuls of clover oats and sometimes shade loving grass all over the surface, then I plant my clone, and water heavy. cover the seed with about 1/8" -1/4" of dirt...In about two days you should see the seeds sprouting.. water lightly every three days until well established. Its getting to 115F in the Greenhouse so I need to water the 100gal pots about every 3-4 days....

thanks for the quick response and sharing your process.
I planted some clover in my beds last round, some came up and flourished but then withered before the round was complete, did not get as lush and thick as yours looks. i think the surface of my soil got dry (lots of fans) when watering was not as steady as it should have been.
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
yea, the key is light waterings... I normally soak the fuck out of new beds before planting... I generally dont need to water the plant for a week or more after planting. I just tend to the cover crop with light waterings until its established then I let it go on its own, only getting water when the plant gets it or when the cover crop starts showing that its in need...
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
I actually like to keep a yard of soil in the corner og the grow room with cover crop in it. Then when clones root I can stick them straight into truly living soil. Then when I transplant the soil I dig out goes into that pot. Never let "living" soil sit bare and dry
 
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