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Advancing Eco Agriculture, Product Science

TheSilverMullet

Member
Veteran
Over a month since I paid for all my AEA products. About half of the stuff I ordered has made it here, the rest keeps blowing up during shipment. Everyone I've been in contact with is super nice and I almost feel bad that it's been such a hassle for everyone. It seems like it would be worth their time to figure out how to prevent this from happening.
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
hey milky,

i've been looking for threads on how to use the refractometer but not getting the answers i need, when you have a chance could you refer me to a thread or share some knowledge?
i bought a handheld/look into light and focus refracto but haven't used it yet. i ordered a pike vice grip squeezer and while on their site picked up a hanna digital refracto.
i want to know which leaves to use for measurements and do i only squeeze the actual leaf ?
i took a big fan leaf off an indoor and got a 2.9, then took another fan closer to to the top and got a 4.5.
to me these plants are very happy and healthy great posture, no visible defs....
this is nowhere near the 12 i'm looking for.
also i'm not looking for anything other than getting my plants above 12 just so i don't have pests and pathogens. not trying to split the atom:big grin:
i'd be stoked on any guidance.
the plants are wifi, about 3' tall in 5.5" sq pots, 16 plants for each 750 gavita in 4x4 trays.
top feed run to waste every hour for 15 seconds when lights on.
6 mils per gallon cutting edge solutions micro
9 mpg ces bloom
5 mpg botanicare calmag
5 mpg humboldt nutes ginormous 0-18-16
ph 5.8

medium is royal gold tuper (coco, forest humus, oyster shell, perlite and azomite)

To be honest I am not the guy to ask about that grow style. I cannot see the upside...only the potential problems.

Obviously high nitrate is gonna be your number 1 brix killer. Second I would look at high k blocking ca and mg uptake. And last I would look at enzyme pathways...Ni, Co, mo etc. These aren't considered essential but they are enzyme co factors and...imo...you won't ever get high brix without big enzyme activity.

I guess I will just be honest...I fucking hate bottled nutes. They all provide too much nitrate and k and that makes the plants big and green in a hurry. But it is no different than a 5 yr old fed candy...yea its bigger than the other kids but it ain't exactly gonna be worth a shit
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
Word. My speed of growth is slower now that the soil is dialed.. You can candy feed with improperly balanced soil too... I know all too well as i was given a candy recipe long ago that would compete with the speed of hydro grown plants...it was good but still prone to the same pitfalls of the bottle just not quite as bad. . .

Here is some gorilla glue planted in Albrecht balanced soil after one week. Planted directly from clone into 100gal pots..

ThIs plant has never in its life had a Foliar feeding. Cover crop of red clover and oats..

picture.php
 

maxmurder

Member
Veteran
To be honest I am not the guy to ask about that grow style. I cannot see the upside...only the potential problems.

Obviously high nitrate is gonna be your number 1 brix killer. Second I would look at high k blocking ca and mg uptake. And last I would look at enzyme pathways...Ni, Co, mo etc. These aren't considered essential but they are enzyme co factors and...imo...you won't ever get high brix without big enzyme activity.

Thanks for the reply. threre's not much i can do about the indoor grow style at this time, i saw the micropak is supposed to boost enzyme pathways so i'm gonna try that, another product from aea you recommend? they have a lot of products. i got on this thread because i have raised beds in my greenhouse and wanted to stay off the bottles mostly cuz i want to keep using the same dirt plus the salts clog up my t-tape.
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
Sea crop will add the enzyme co factors you want more than micrpack. You already have the regular micros.

You might also want to add some fulvic. And last you need Mo as a nitrate reductase co enzyme.

I am not familar with the bottled nutes so I don't know the profile. Nova crop control recommends 73 ppm Mg and I wouldn't go over 150 ppm nitrate.

FE posted a link to a talk that speaks to that a ways back
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
When I did salts npkcamg was maybe 150-60-200-150-60. Not in small pots though. Brix was above 10.

Obvipusly I should have upped the Mg a touch
 

FatherEarth

Active member
Veteran
I helped a guy with his coco garden and got his brix to match my soil garden brix with just two foliar applications of an AEA formula. 15 brix...

What's your highest brix indoors and out? Bust out the rulers it's that kind of contest, lol...
 

TheSilverMullet

Member
Veteran
Dang, I was happy when I got my brix from 9 up to 11 using photomag and sea stim alternated with cal25 every week or so.

I've only had the refractometer a few weeks now so plenty of room for improvement but I doubt I'll be whipping it out and measuring publicly any time soon, haha.

The rest of my order came yesterday so I have more juice to play with.

So if the line is too sharp it indicates mineral (most likely calcium) deficiency, right?

I know my soil was still low Ca, high K as of my last test a month ago so I topped the pots with some Ag lime and micronized gypsum and then I've been on the cal25 weekly.

I want to say the line on my readings has been somewhat fuzzy but I don't have much of a reference. My gut tells me it could be fuzzier.
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
On the fuzzy line if you listen to greame sait he claims Ca causes it.

I would respectfully disagree though. When you think about it we are trying to build carbon chains...glucose, longer chain carbohydrates, proteins and my favorite fats. I believe the more complex those chains become the fuzzier that line gets.

Obviously Ca plays a big part in making that happen. But enzymes are the true key.

I shoot for 12 in the leaf. If I get higher i start to suspect too much K and not enough Ca. An actual K sink...like say a blueberry...wpuld be different
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
Also if you are into rulers simply wait until later in the day or after the lights have been on longer. The plant dehydrates slightly as the day goes on. Less water = higher % of solids = higher brix.

Be honest with it. Take the sample within 2 hours of sun up/lights on. Do not use petioles and do not let the sample sit and dry out
 

milkyjoe

Senior Member
Veteran
They go up for a while until they dehydrate...then they die. Good for dick measuring...bad long term

Cut back on the ec of your nutes
 
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