HappyTreeFarm
Member
rootwise vs. tainio huh
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Advancing Eco Agriculture, Product Science
- Thread starter FatherEarth
- Start date
rootwise vs. tainio huh
HappyTreeFarm
Member
thanks for the feedback Jidoka do you know if N phuric can be used in organic production? or would citric acid be a good substitute?
you guys have a injector recommendation? I'm sure you do somewhere back in this thread
I will be also using sea shield for a N source this coming season. I mulched with organic alfalfa was planning on added more wormies to digest the hay when it warms up a bit.
those worms in your hand look like lumbricus terrestris to me, can't wait to get back on worm production
you guys have a injector recommendation? I'm sure you do somewhere back in this thread
I will be also using sea shield for a N source this coming season. I mulched with organic alfalfa was planning on added more wormies to digest the hay when it warms up a bit.
those worms in your hand look like lumbricus terrestris to me, can't wait to get back on worm production
Have you tried his vermicompost? I'm gonna send some in to get tested. I use the Tainio Spectrum Extra.....Na is always an issue up here, even if just incremental. Have gotten great responses from that product, and a Tainio rep lives right by me and is cool with the ganj.
ya the rootwise vermicompost is good stuff imo
yea...I love spectrum extra. but my shit is all under 1% Na anymore because of that. I will keep some available...but if you don't gotta deal with that trust me...rootwise is the shit.
I have not tried his vermicompost. Don't doubt it is bomb...but it is so easy to make I have found.
Yea, I'm still around 2% Na, even after a bunch of gypsum, but getting there. The Spectrum Extra is just the little extra I need. The way I mixed that clay up, it was inevitable that I got some native sodic soil mixed in with it. Plants don't seem to mind, but I'd like to see it lower on the test.
I still don't get why people inoculate multiple times per month though. Seems like 1-2 times per year outdoors, and once per cycle indoors, should be plenty....unless you are really killing your biology with something!
I put down 1 acres worth of Spectrum Extra to 50yds of clay mix, and I had visible hyphae and mycelium in the top 1-2 inches almost everywhere, within weeks. Seems like if your minerals are in check, and you keep feeding root exudates and glucose to the soil biology, things will keep breeding and multiplying.
I feed 6 grams per yard per week...I am starting to brew it along with Pacific Grow, sea stim, Rootwise and pepzyme. Shit is amazing. All the growers in Denver are taking a gal a week home and the stories are amazing
edit...48 hours and you see yeast forming. I am getting serious fungal development in 48 hours.
edit...48 hours and you see yeast forming. I am getting serious fungal development in 48 hours.
But is 6 grams per yard per week really necessary? At that rate, the fungal inoculate would be my mostly costly input! And most of us have seen that if your minerals aren't in correct and proportionate amounts, the biology won't do much anyway! I say, inoculate once a month maximum, and let those microbes multiply on their own! Where does inoculant come from anyway? Strong living soil and compost cultures...so if that is what you already have, you should be making inoculant, not buying more....
Haha Yeah, N phuric is organic.... how funny. No, not even close.
You can use Korean Enzymes to lower the pH organically. Citric acid should qualify but it doesn't. You can ORGANICALLY acidify your spray in the field, or acidify canned or jarred fruit,or even puree and cut fruit for freezing. But you can't inject it into the field... (I asked, believe me).
Mulching with good organic material that won't bring in the wrong bugs, apply good dried manure a couple of times a season and covering the soil with ramial wood chips, getting air into the system are all things that will help. What is necessary is humus to give all those excess cations to bind to, so worm castings, leonardite and those type amendments are invaluable.
HappyTreeFarm
Member
So how do you suggest i deal with the bicarbonates in my water? treat my soil or treat my water? or both
If the bicarbonates want to use up calcium, let them! Give unto Caesar what is Caesars'!
Same message add gypsum! This is why it is so critical that you do trials. 3 or 4 different dosages along with a real strategy for fertilizing correctly, reapplying more Ca at flowering.
I had a pretty slamming worm farm until I got root aphids....pretty sure it came from some lettuce that I threw in there. The whole grow went to the dump. I'm willing to not give up on it though.
Uncle Jims is the shit. I threw some Africans(or whatever) in my open bottom containers OD. Now I probably kill more worms with a tiller then most people have.
BTW I think a worm count is some next level stuff
Uncle Jims is the shit. I threw some Africans(or whatever) in my open bottom containers OD. Now I probably kill more worms with a tiller then most people have.
BTW I think a worm count is some next level stuff
HappyTreeFarm
Member
yes i am part of a third party organic certification program base out of northern california
HappyTreeFarm
Member
I like that idea different % Ca trails, %68, 75, 82,85
HappyTreeFarm
Member
the more different species we can get into our soil system the better, it is amazing how fast they multiple in a healthy soil
I always understood that in a living and decomposing soil system, that root aphids played a role of further decomposition and only prey on dead and decaying roots. Its only in hydro that they really cause havoc, because he only organic matter is living roots. But hey, I've never proven this or have I bothered to try to prove it...ever find a viable way to get rid of em? Met52?
