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Advancing Eco Agriculture, Product Science

H

HappyTreeFarm

Member
so my last soil sample i took, my Si levels were at 27ppm, my Ph is super high also so I'm apprehensive to add vansil w10. i have some liquid potassium silicate sitting around that i would like to use up. have you seen Ksil increase the soils Si levels when used? and will be enough until i can drop my Ph? and amend with the good stuff
 
J

jidoka

Active member
HappyTreeFarm said:
so no added food sources besides the light soil? was there old roots in there from a previous grow? do you know what temps they can tolerate before they die off? to answer your question he just glossed over the topic i almost quoted him word for word
Click to expand...

no roots. just what i mentioned.

i keep them indo. not sure on temp but i bet uncle jim can tell you
 
H

HappyTreeFarm

Member
after this last test i added 32lbs of gypsum for 50 yards of soil and a 1/3 cup of azomite

i went at a 1/3 ratio of what the test asked for cause of what humphrey said about soil weight
 

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H

HappyTreeFarm

Member
i use topsoil and coco as my base, I've come to a strong disliking of peat because of how long it takes to take on water at initial planting. water water and re water to get it to get rid of dry pockets. takes days and days.
 
J

jidoka

Active member
So the secret to watering peat in is to use a wetting agent. If organic means anything to you yucca works, if not use CapSil...that shit is bomb.

So you have the official aea form...did you get a consult?

A couple of things...your EC is too low. You have enough minerals so you are low on nitrogen. What do you like to use for nitrogen?

Your water needs to be treated...that is too much alkalinity

And if you want to get all technical it is gonna take 2 lbs of sulfate from gypsum per lb of Mg you want to chase off. So 200 lbs of Mg to run out takes 400 lbs of so4 from gypsum. if I remember right gypsum is 17% sulfate. so 400/0.17 is 2,352 lbs per acre or like 3 lbs per yard. You can reduce that for the weight of the soil if you want. The Ca replacing Mg will actually lower your pH also. Watch K cause you are gonna push it off also.

Don't use vansil because of pH, gypsum is the right choice. Also don't use KSil until your K is down there around 3%...if orech is looking he can tell you more.

Also ask Slow if you can post this on his thread...this is exactly up his alley. You will have to listen to him tell you about spectrum vs logan...but he knows his shit on this kinda soil

I am curious to see what he says vs what I said.

ooops same time...lol
 
H

HappyTreeFarm

Member
jidoka said:
So the secret to watering peat in is to use a wetting agent. If organic means anything to you yucca works, if not use CapSil...that shit is bomb.

So you have the official aea form...did you get a consult?

A couple of things...your EC is too low. You have enough minerals so you are low on nitrogen. What do you like to use for nitrogen?

Your water needs to be treated...that is too much alkalinity

And if you want to get all technical it is gonna take 2 lbs of sulfate from gypsum per lb of Mg you want to chase off. So 200 lbs of Mg to run out takes 400 lbs of so4 from gypsum. if I remember right gypsum is 17% sulfate. so 400/0.17 is 2,352 lbs per acre or like 3 lbs per yard. You can reduce that for the weight of the soil if you want. The Ca replacing Mg will actually lower your pH also. Watch K cause you are gonna push it off also.

Don't use vansil because of pH, gypsum is the right choice. Also don't use KSil until your K is down there around 3%...if orech is looking he can tell you more.

Also ask Slow if you can post this on his thread...this is exactly up his alley. You will have to listen to him tell you about spectrum vs logan...but he knows his shit on this kinda soil

I am curious to see what he says vs what I said.

ooops same time...lol
Click to expand...

yes I've talked with the guys that work in the office many times, they have been semi helpful. I've also had a few conversations with Gary but not as of recent he helped me start down the rabbit hole.
i have been using pure protein D for my N source
how do i treat my water? with humates and an injector system?
have you seen a more accurate response to your amendments since reducing for soil weight by 1/3 to 1/4 of tested amount?
as of now i added .6 lbs per yard of gypsum.
so no elemental S to lower the Ph? cause of killing microbes?
I get that about the K being knocked off first cause of the single charge+

I know its not "free lime" causing the Ph bump its Mg so would i still benefit from an elevated AA test for accurate CEC?

So how could i get my Si levels up, either before i plant or during the cycle?
 
S

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Given you labelled it a clay... The amount of aluminum there is scary.

I would like to see at least 6% OM.

Not enough sulfur nor phosphorus.

Boron, zinc and copper are low.

If you were to plant in it, might be ok. If you just finished producing... not so good. Your K is low.

Does this soil drain easy or is it a bit complicated?
 
Space Case

Space Case

Well-known member
Veteran
jidoka said:
View attachment 392116

started with 500 worms from uncle jim. chucked them in a 30 gal smartie of fairly balanced lightweight soil. fed them tainio microbes and pepzyme, pacific grow and sea stim

they multiply like rabbits. does not take long to have so many they will go through a 30 gal bag a week

who knew how easy this is
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Found lots of worms in the clay mix indoors the other day, when I was digging around in there. My outdoor beds were open bottom, so the worms must of crawled in there on their own.
 
rasputin

rasputin

The Mad Monk
Veteran
HappyTreeFarm said:
i use topsoil and coco as my base, I've come to a strong disliking of peat because of how long it takes to take on water at initial planting. water water and re water to get it to get rid of dry pockets. takes days and days.
Click to expand...

Are you hydrating the peat prior to mixing it w/amendments & planting into it?
 
J

jidoka

Active member
HappyTreeFarm said:
yes I've talked with the guys that work in the office many times, they have been semi helpful. I've also had a few conversations with Gary but not as of recent he helped me start down the rabbit hole.
i have been using pure protein D for my N source

The aminos are excellent if this is what I think it is...cost not so much. That is an expensive way to apply protein. Most use it just as an energy boost.

how do i treat my water? with humates and an injector system?

I would use n phuric

have you seen a more accurate response to your amendments since reducing for soil weight by 1/3 to 1/4 of tested amount?

be careful with that method unless you have actually weighed your soil. you have top soil in there, it should be heavier. And also use it to readjust cec. I do not use that method personally.

as of now i added .6 lbs per yard of gypsum.

How long has it been. I would simply take another soil test to see for sure if I was headed in the right direction and go from there.

so no elemental S to lower the Ph? cause of killing microbes?

You need Ca...even 3 lbs per yard is not going to get you where you want to be...75% if you listen to aea...82-85 if your soil stays calcareous

I get that about the K being knocked off first cause of the single charge+

I know its not "free lime" causing the Ph bump its Mg so would i still benefit from an elevated AA test for accurate CEC?

So how could i get my Si levels up, either before i plant or during the cycle?
Click to expand...

I would use non calcined diatomaceous earth...like this https://customhydronutrients.com/in...4e88da969&keyword=diatomaceous+earth&x=35&y=7
 
plantingplants

plantingplants

Active member
I feel you on the dry pockets. This year I'm going to get some capsil that doka mentioned. It got even worse last season when mycelium colonized massive sections of my soil. Wetting agent didn't help once it was colonized so I might be using it all year.


Quick Q: Sulfate is not read as elemental S on soil tests, correct?
 
H

HappyTreeFarm

Member
plantingplants said:
I feel you on the dry pockets. This year I'm going to get some capsil that doka mentioned. It got even worse last season when mycelium colonized massive sections of my soil. Wetting agent didn't help once it was colonized so I might be using it all year.


Quick Q: Sulfate is not read as elemental S on soil tests, correct?
Click to expand...

correct sulfate is SO4
 
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