Red: of course you know your stuff.. We were in the same pickle at 160 yds. decided to supplement some prospector with malibu to shave costs.
Slow: my boron is lower than reds at this stage do recommend a top dress of it to push up the levels?
We bought 200 yards of the Oly's at almost $300 per yard delivered!!!! They wanted EVEN MORE money for the same mix with Malibu. Went with the Oly's for simple economics and still paid too much. I've seen tests on the Malibu and yes it has much better trace levels than Oly's and less Al, so you'll certainly get more distance out of it in a water only situation. But its still crazy high on CEC, CO3, N, and K. And all that early N and K makes for explosive growth, which wows growers that don't know better, but you end up with hollow growth and insufficient roots and with no further inputs, just water, you will stall just as well, albeit maybe a month after the Oly's.
I should also mention that there are considerable inconstancies. Larger than basketball chunks of unmixed compost and unbroken-down carbon was found in there, huge chunks of rice hulls not mixed in. Some of the totes that didn't get used immediately and stayed closed were growing all sorts of deep rooted grasses and had visible weed contamination in the mix. Quaker grass, common reed, or crab grass came up like crazy and it was encouraged to just continue mowing it in. Turns out those grasses are major copper and zinc bioaccumulators and should of been pulled asap. I don't think that came in the Oly's compost.
I struggled to get B above 1ppm on the logan tests. Looks like Spectrum is showing a bit more, but I have been slowly adding Boric Acid at about 5g per 1000sq ft. and the different tests are about a month apart. Inconclusive.
Have you been applying boron foliarly? That is a must in your situation.
How many plants can you spray with a gallon so as to make a calculation???
Just seeing the letters BAS doesn't sit well with me. My sweet corn crop is a staggering 3 foot tall in a BAS mix and purple to boot. I purposefully never amend that soil just so it pisses me off every year as a reminder.
Slow- haven't really had time to read through much of astera's thread to understand the beef but i can tell there is some... For what its worth we worked with him on a second year re-amend at another garden.. Much lighter mix a variation of a tom hill style that had been pretty far off after yr 1. That garden is performing magnificently there may be a solid handful 8 to 10+lb plants in that garden in 200gal closed bottom smart pots and the 300 gal are looking like they will average 7-9 with ease if we close out the season right (big IF)- I will post pictures in the next day or so. He never recommended his fertilizers and in fact added i would do better locally price wise on inputs rather then using his.
I see that sucks.Again I know nothing and want not to be a shit stir. thank you for all of your helpful insights on IC! you have inspired me to learn much much more!
Watch the nova crop control stuff again. The plant works just like the soil. Once you saturate it foliar or no it ain't taking anymore.
I would be willing to guess those lower ph beds are not the ones that have hollow stems...they can exchange H for base cations ie they can take up foliar Ca whereas the ones with higher ph probably cannot. This is espe cially true if your soil ec is where you like to run it.
You are leaving no room for the plant to correct. It is fine to run highish cec if your mix is dead nuts on. But if it isn't you aren't allowing the plant to choose