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A new Guerilla growing method.?

Thule

Dr. Narrowleaf
Veteran
It may be an old trick but you don't see it used often in guerrilla. Ima bring it back if it works for me ;)
 

flameninja

Active member
What i do is cut the top of the bottle into a crown/zig zag shape,and put a strip of slug tape around each one works a treat. Only thing is fox cubs love playing with bottles! I lost half a doz plants due to playfull fox cubs this season.
:respect:
 

The Revolution

Active member
Veteran
This is exactly how I start seeds for my outdoor guerilla grows, minus the clear tops. I may have to implement this technique this outdoor season. In each garden, I quadrant off an area with chicken wire, and I have about 200 solo cups full of soil less mix that I put my germed seeds into.
Its important to dig a few inches down into the earth and bury the chicken wire inthe the ground bc critters will try to dig under it.
I try to get a few week start on them, and sex them before transplanting to the ground or smart pots. I do this in each area, and then I move the males to their own garden for observation and to make seeds later on. This has been the best technique ive found outdoors, but I will have to find these clear cups and give it a try.
In each garden I start with a cpl bails of promix/worm casting, stacks of solos, roll of chicken wire, and a sharpie to label cups. I start about 200 seeds in each garden, usually end up around 50-75 females to transplant, after males are seperated, and other causalities.
 
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iTarzan

Well-known member
Veteran
Seeds can be planted directly into the soil in early April. It is best not to pre germ them. That way they start to germ when conditions support germination (rain, warm etc). Then when the seedlings pop up they won't need anything to survive.

It won't matter if it is still less than 14 hours of light because seedling will not flower because they are not sexually mature (alternating leaf nodes) and they can sense that the hours of dark are decreasing and it isn't time to flower. Just like outdoor plants start to flower way before 12/12. They sense the nights getting longer. They start to throw pistils around August 10th.

Another benefit of starting seedlings outside in the ground is that they don't have smells that attract critters. Kind of like a fawn. They lie motionless and have no smell that predators can smell. Fencing is still beneficial latter on though.

I remember an article in High Times in the seventies where Jamaican growrs would start a few hundred seedling in a small 4x4 patch and them transplant and spread them out over their plot when they were 3 weeks old or so. Thay way they weren't carrying in hundreds of small plants.
 

The Revolution

Active member
Veteran
This method has given be the best results. Really anxious for the outdoor season to begin! I usually start germing seeds the last week of april thru june.
 

idiit

Active member
Veteran
^^
I have about 200 solo cups full of soil less mix that I put my germed seeds into.

very important part of this technique. i bring in high quality potting mix (fafard) during the winter when the fafard is dry for light weight transport. it gets wet staying od until spring. i mix a very small amount of local top soil into the mix before transplanting germed seeds with taproots into the potting mix and lightly cover the top of the potting mix with another light layer of local top soil because the potting mix has a tendency to dry out very quickly and the small top soil dressing helps the cup retain moisture during the rooting stage.
 

DJbigbud

Member
Tried something similar last summer with a couple plants as a test. Used clear solo sized cups and cut the tops (normally bottom) completely off. Planted seed direct to soil and put the cup over, about 1 inch into the soil and then watered around the cup to hold it in place. Seeds came up great and plants grew right through the cup, acted as a greenhouse for protection from wind and critters when the plant was small, and when it got bigger, grew right out the top, no need to go back to remove and still left a protective barrier around the bottom 4 inches of plant and below the soil a bit. Will be doing this again!
 

DuskrayTroubador

Well-known member
Veteran
Tried something similar last summer with a couple plants as a test. Used clear solo sized cups and cut the tops (normally bottom) completely off. Planted seed direct to soil and put the cup over, about 1 inch into the soil and then watered around the cup to hold it in place. Seeds came up great and plants grew right through the cup, acted as a greenhouse for protection from wind and critters when the plant was small, and when it got bigger, grew right out the top, no need to go back to remove and still left a protective barrier around the bottom 4 inches of plant and below the soil a bit. Will be doing this again!

I think I'm going to be doing this in the upcoming season.

What I plan on doing is digging my permanent holes and then haul in my seedling mix. Whenever I bring in my germinated seeds, I'm gonna dig little holes in the middle of my permanent holes, and replace the dirt taken out with my seedling mix, which I will have gotten thoroughly moistened in a mixing bowl.

Then I can put the germinated seeds straight into the seedling mix in the permanent holes. This way they still get the benefit of starting in seedling mix and there is no potential to stunt growth by them becoming rootbound in cups or by transplanting them.

Cut off the bottom of the clear plastic cup, invert it so it's a tee-pee shape, bury it an inch centered on the planted seed. Now you have a greenhouse in the seed's first and permanent home.

Then I'll just do what I did last year to prevent critter/slug damage: put a circle of construction sand around the hole (slugs won't cross the sand) and for critters I just make a circle of 2' chicken wire, stake it down, and then I zip-tie the top together to close it.

Is there anything I'm overlooking here? From the armchair it seems like a pretty damn good method to successfully start seeds outside.
 

idiit

Active member
Veteran
^ diatomaceous earth sprinkled liberally, slope to drain (spring flood control), triple plant 'cause some won't make it, back up indoor plants for transplanting in late may if spring seedling attempt fails.
 

DuskrayTroubador

Well-known member
Veteran
I'm using the time to collect more empty water bottles.

I'm about to start. I think I'm going to forego the process of starting seeds under artificial light entirely. I'm ordering extra seeds, but I am very anxious to see just how much faster plants grow who are unaffected by transplant shock, shock from change in artificial light to sunlight, and shock by being rootbound.

I think the key here is to make sure our mini greenhouses are made in such a way as to make sure they do not experience shock due to low temperatures. This is why I like the upside down clear plastic cup; it has a tee-pee-esque shape to do a better job of insulation. Just gotta make sure that, although this method enables us to plant earlier outside, we plant late enough that by the time the seedling grows through the cup, it is warm enough to not suffer any shock.

That and I am much more comfortable bringing germinated seeds out into the bush than I am bringing actual plants. So much more can go wrong with plants.
 

Thule

Dr. Narrowleaf
Veteran
I'm about to start. I think I'm going to forego the process of starting seeds under artificial light entirely. I'm ordering extra seeds, but I am very anxious to see just how much faster plants grow who are unaffected by transplant shock, shock from change in artificial light to sunlight, and shock by being rootbound.

I think the key here is to make sure our mini greenhouses are made in such a way as to make sure they do not experience shock due to low temperatures. This is why I like the upside down clear plastic cup; it has a tee-pee-esque shape to do a better job of insulation. Just gotta make sure that, although this method enables us to plant earlier outside, we plant late enough that by the time the seedling grows through the cup, it is warm enough to not suffer any shock.

That and I am much more comfortable bringing germinated seeds out into the bush than I am bringing actual plants. So much more can go wrong with plants.

My plan is some what different.

I'm vegging mostly on the balcony, I'm high enough in the building to avoid minor frosts but they'll be experiencing temperatures close to freezing point for sure, without any protection. Even the plants that I start inside will get this cold treatment before being planted, it makes all the difference at at my latitude. I use the fridge to harden my plants if I can't do it outdoors, but I always do it because june frosts are not a rare occurrence and will kill anything not used to it.

For me the objective is to plant a bit earlier than I normally would (during frosts) and trap as much daytime heat as I can inside the cloche without the temperatures getting too high. I'll probably cover the root zone with moss to prevent freezing.. but they're about to get shocked what ever I do. I just make sure they're used to it by the time they're on open ground. :watchplant:
 

Dark Lord

Member
last year I went to look for new guerilla spots and I found this:
picture.php


ps: I heard from somewhere that a rival grower was behind silverback when he climbed for his plants.
 

ghostmade

Active member
Veteran
Clear 2 liters with the bottom cut off.cut 3 or 4 3 inch slits on the side. Un leave the cap off. Take hot glue/elmers wood glue or wut ever. Roll in diatomaceous earth..was my initial technique I make pcv frames and put them clear trash bag.boom cheap as cold frame .olny last the month I use it but it works.I did have a problem with raccoons for some odd reason (crab and fish meal)
 

ghostmade

Active member
Veteran
last year I went to look for new guerilla spots and I found this:
View Image

ps: I heard from somewhere that a rival grower was behind silverback when he climbed for his plants.
Where the fuck did u hear that? I hope u r not trying to be a High School broad spreading rumors.no disrespect but um unless u know something I dont (and I am NOT saying that is not possible) but he died in a accident.even if he wasn't no one has the right to say any different. out of respect for him and his family talk that s*** in PM's not on the open forum f*****
 
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ghostmade

Active member
Veteran
Hey bro I was a lil emotional early.sorry if I made it seem like I was attacking u man.i just felt like u were being sarcastic .a freind emailed me and set me strait.imisunderstood the jist of ur post man.but we sould refrain from mentioning violence and growing bro.wont you agree.again im sorry bro .stay strong and grow on brother
 

Team Microbe

Active member
Veteran
"ps: I heard from somewhere that a rival grower was behind silverback when he climbed for his plants"

No but really, where did you hear that? Is it true? How would that even happen, what did he sneak up behind him after he waited for him there?
 

ghostmade

Active member
Veteran
Frodm what was disclosed to me via email from a long time member, was, there was a suspicion of foul play.he also gose on to say that we truly dont really know.as that man circle is shrouded secrecy.and we will probly n3ver truly know EXACTLY wut happen.i just felt like I was distasteful in my post to DV
 

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