A few things that I've learned about growing in coco with a drip systm DTW

[IngFarmer]

one other question, since we're in summer in the peek of the afternoon I find my grow room to be very warm, I'm talking about 32.7 to 33.2 degrees celsius, although I try to vent out the heat, I can assure you is not that an easy task...

how bad is it for the crops...so far they "seem" to be coping...do I need to add more extreme measures to curb the heat or at that temp they may just do fine?

 

[oti$]

I would cut the recommended dose in half. That should get you to about 1.0-1.2 ec which is the sweet spot for multifeeds. The claw could be from N tox, but often is a sign of over feeding in general. I'd invest in an ec meter. I recommend bluelab, but a cheap one can be had on ebay for 20-30 bucks. When I finally bought one and measured the ec of my res after mixing @the recommended rate I found I was feeding at 2.8 ec or something outrageous. It is best to stsrted low and increase as needed. It's easy to add more. Once the leaves have clawed in flower it's pretty much impossible to get them to return to normal, but cutting back on the nutes will still benefit the plants and the sooner you cut back on the feed strength the better off you'll be. Good luck!

 

[IngFarmer]

thanks oti$

 

[chronosync]

one other question, since we're in summer in the peek of the afternoon I find my grow room to be very warm, I'm talking about 32.7 to 33.2 degrees celsius, although I try to vent out the heat, I can assure you is not that an easy task...

how bad is it for the crops...so far they "seem" to be coping...do I need to add more extreme measures to curb the heat or at that temp they may just do fine?

That's pretty hot, but if you have good airflow that helps, especially with humidity being in that upper range. What are your RH levels like? Have you scoped a VPD chart? My last harvest was good and I was pushing it with temps and humidity. Having lots of airflow saved me.

 

[IngFarmer]

That's pretty hot, but if you have good airflow that helps, especially with humidity being in that upper range. What are your RH levels like? Have you scoped a VPD chart? My last harvest was good and I was pushing it with temps and humidity. Having lots of airflow saved me.

relative humidity reads 42- 50 percent from the hygrometer near the ventilation fan, and my second hygrometer farther away from the ventilation fan reads 62-65...on less sunny days it tends to go pretty higher though, but these last two weeks has been terribly hot, infact I really have noticed very less runoffs, I can't even tell if they plants are drinking a lot or it's just the heat evaporating everything lol...

 

[Bwanabud]

That's pretty hot, but if you have good airflow that helps, especially with humidity being in that upper range. What are your RH levels like? Have you scoped a VPD chart? My last harvest was good and I was pushing it with temps and humidity. Having lots of airflow saved me.

I must be in the minority, I don't "do" VPD

 

[dansbuds]

I must be in the minority, I don't "do" VPD

nope , i don't either bwana , not untill i get a room with the environment controlled enough properlly . then i'll check into VPD . until then its pointless .

 

[Bwanabud]

nope , i don't either bwana , not untill i get a room with the environment controlled enough properlly . then i'll check into VPD . until then its pointless .

I've got all the controls in all of my rooms, but "it" doesn't make sense to me...it's a play on words with "dew point"

 

[Phases]

Yeah I don't run my rooms in the proper VPD parameters. I usually end up at around 77-80f and 50-55 RH.

It looks like a lot of people successfully run their rooms based on the proper VPD and do great but then again theres a lot of people not following that method and doing just as good.

It would be interesting to do one room at lower RH and the other room with higher humidity according to the VPD chart and to see what room comes out with the better results.

 

[Bwanabud]

VPD means everything in my garden. I know it seems silly, but the difference is night and day. Also, running higher vpd means less mites. They hate higher humidity and usually you need extra airflow to run rooms this way(they hate that also)

If my plants look like shit, its cause the vpd is off, every time. Have not had pH or food problems since switching to coco since it stays the same a-z.



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The chart looks to me like a standard parameters for operation anyways, I'm probably in that range without even trying...the plants talk, I listen

Like I said, it's a play on the dew point equation.

 

[chronosync]

Maybe that chart just makes me feel better when its 90/90 outside and I have to deal.

 

[maxmurder]

relative humidity reads 42- 50 percent from the hygrometer near the ventilation fan, and my second hygrometer farther away from the ventilation fan reads 62-65...on less sunny days it tends to go pretty higher though, but these last two weeks has been terribly hot, infact I really have noticed very less runoffs, I can't even tell if they plants are drinking a lot or it's just the heat evaporating everything lol...

have you put both sensors in the same place for a while to make sure they are both reading the same?

 

[maxmurder]

VPD means everything in my garden. I know it seems silly, but the difference is night and day. Also, running higher vpd means less mites. They hate higher humidity and usually you need extra airflow to run rooms this way(they hate that also)

If my plants look like shit, its cause the vpd is off, every time. Have not had pH or food problems since switching to coco since it stays the same a-z.



[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/attachment.php?attachmentid=315791&thumb=1]View Image[/url]

so you are running a sealed room?
i couldn't keep the room at these temp/humi without sealed room.
i really want to check it out- i know guys are killing it with sealed rooms it's just my electricity is super spendy and i would have to almost double yields to make added ac and dehumi make sense...

 

[IngFarmer]

Hundred gram Oz, can you please talk about how you go about flushing? is my first run applying your method and I will like to know how you go about your flushing, do you use some flusher product? how many days, weeks before chop? thanks in advance..

 

[hot cheetos]

Guys i have 3 gallon fabric pots, 100% coco. 4 weeks flowering already and im sick of hand watering. I cant keep up with watering manually more than twice per lights on and they demand so much more. Coco is constantly dry on the top.

How many times should i water per day?

And when you guys talk about, for example, 3x per day...are we talking 3 times per 24 hours? Or 3 times during lights on?

Do you irrigate during lights off???

 

[Bush Dr]

Hundred gram Oz, can you please talk about how you go about flushing? is my first run applying your method and I will like to know how you go about your flushing, do you use some flusher product? how many days, weeks before chop? thanks in advance..

Plant Magic Flush for 4 days and then 7-10 of plain water, NO Ph adjustments, so start 2 weeks before the end

Guys i have 3 gallon fabric pots, 100% coco. 4 weeks flowering already and im sick of hand watering. I cant keep up with watering manually more than twice per lights on and they demand so much more. Coco is constantly dry on the top.

How many times should i water per day?

And when you guys talk about, for example, 3x per day...are we talking 3 times per 24 hours? Or 3 times during lights on?

Do you irrigate during lights off???

If you read the first few posts you'll see the recommendation to put hydroton pellets in the bottom to lift the root ball out of any standing water and cover the top with them to reduce evaporation and salt build up

feeding is 3-5 times per 12 hrs during lights on, 3 at the start of flowering increased to 5 as you near the end aiming for 10-20% run off, nutrients are cheap and the difference between an average crop and a great one can be £10 worth of feed .....don't skimp on feed

Don't feed in the dark cycle

Your pots are too big, HGO, Dansbuds and I have all had over 8 Oz from 3&1/2 litre pots, 6 litres is the optimum size IMHO

 

[subsonikz]

is nutrient temperature a factor in this system? seems not, which would be ideal.

when using a beneficial tea, would pH of the tea going in be of concern?

couldn't find anything pertaining to this in the thread.

thanks

 

[Bush Dr]

is nutrient temperature a factor in this system? seems not, which would be ideal.

when using a beneficial tea, would pH of the tea going in be of concern?

Temperature only comes into play when the ambient temps require it, cold weather I feed at 24-26C, which by the time it runs out is around 21C

In hot temps the feed goes in at 20C and drains out at 23C

You ph when all additives have been mixed in a few hours before, so no worries

 

[subsonikz]

i'm running co2 so ambient temps are 28-29c during feeding.

would you suggest keeping the res chilled to the proper temperature (less ideal) or would applying a tea often be feasible to prevent any root diseases?

also, are you saying to combine the tea in with the feed after it's been pH'd previously? wouldn't you not want unaereted tea sitting in the res?

 

[subsonikz]

i guess what i'm asking is how you go about applying it, along side nutrient feeds or on it's own, if on its own, does it need to be adjusted to the same pH that feeds are given to avoid throwing the coco out of balance pH wise