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3 weeks in with Aptus shits blowing up around here..

sureshot66

Active member
Veteran
i saw your veg technique with the movers on that other forum, but didnt read the thread, hows that going? what results are you seeing im imaging better/tighter branching, let me know man thanks
 
Do the root packs take care of fungus gnats? I'm getting the biggest fucking headache from these fuckers...used Merit...BT (Gnatrol)...mosquito dunks..and nematodes...all in one run and I joke you not they are getting higher in population and bigger?!? Fuck you Y4P and your dirty super bugs. Anyways after exhausting every idea that should work I'm figuring I have some super gnat on my hands. And no they aren't root aphids before someone makes that claim.

Anyways long story short, I'm wondering if the root pack will take care of these pests?


For fungus gnats dont even fuck around, just go to Lowes and get some of the Bayers products that contain Imidicloprid. It kills fungus gnats as well as Root Aphids larvae for 90 days. I feed it at the beginning of every flower cycle and never have an issue anymore.
 

mandingus

Member
I brew caps tea the way it is stated on the website. You can use all 3 packs or just foliar and root pack with the fixin's. Haven't seen gnats, aphids or any substrate-borne pests since. I also foliar with it at full strength. No more PM. I have broad mite issues as well. These fuckers are sure to push your skills to the edge. But haven't seen them since using caps tea as foliar. I was using tea undiluted as foliar every other day because I was so fucking paranoid. Plants didn't complain.
 

mandingus

Member
Got a Aptus sample pack, going to test it in one of my dwc buckets.

Its awesome stuff. Good luck!!

I will be using this on my next run:
Aptus fasilitor
Canna coco a+b
Cal/mag
Caps tea
Sea green
Maybe pk13/14 or some kind of pk booster

I used the entire line. It worked awesome but it got pricey. Shit was also redundant. No need for start boost and ecozen if you're using tea and sea green.

That's it. Fasilitor+caps tea+sea green= Gangbusters!!!!
 

Coconutz

Active member
Veteran
For fungus gnats dont even fuck around, just go to Lowes and get some of the Bayers products that contain Imidicloprid. It kills fungus gnats as well as Root Aphids larvae for 90 days. I feed it at the beginning of every flower cycle and never have an issue anymore.

Thats fucking hilarious!
Imid for fungus gnats?
Thats fucking ridiculous!
Any idea how many days imid will stay in the plant?
Theres a 12 month control claim and they tell you not to even use the fruit and citrus more than once a year!
The only safe way to use that shit indoors is as a quarantine for new cuts that will just be cloned and not flowered
 

Storm Shadow

Well-known member
Veteran
KONTOS..... systemic against BM,RA,FG, and just about anything else that will give your problems ... 1ml a gallon drench or foliar
 

GreenintheThumb

fuck the ticket, bought the ride
Veteran
Its awesome stuff. Good luck!!

I will be using this on my next run:
Aptus fasilitor
Canna coco a+b
Cal/mag
Caps tea
Sea green
Maybe pk13/14 or some kind of pk booster

I used the entire line. It worked awesome but it got pricey. Shit was also redundant. No need for start boost and ecozen if you're using tea and sea green.

That's it. Fasilitor+caps tea+sea green= Gangbusters!!!!

You really don't have a zyme product tho. I wouldn't compare sea green to ecozen.

I wouldn't use pk13/14 with the caps and sea green, i'd use Rock Resinator. It's more natural, less harsh and ends up affecting your quality less than pk13/14 IME.

Imid will kill anything chewing on your roots btw
 

mandingus

Member
You really don't have a zyme product tho. I wouldn't compare sea green to ecozen.

I wouldn't use pk13/14 with the caps and sea green, i'd use Rock Resinator. It's more natural, less harsh and ends up affecting your quality less than pk13/14 IME.

Imid will kill anything chewing on your roots btw

I always thought bennies produced enough enzymes to breakdown dead roots. But thanks for the heads up. I have some ecozen left and will add it.

Thanks for rock resonator tip. What weeks would you add it and how many times a week?
 

mandingus

Member
KONTOS..... systemic against BM,RA,FG, and just about anything else that will give your problems ... 1ml a gallon drench or foliar

Thanks for tip Storm. Where can one buy it in small amounts? How long does it stay in the plant's system and would it show if I put flowers through lab tests? Thanks again
 

Smoke342

New member
Sorry to write you guys out a TLDNR (too long did not read) but...

Let me start off KeepPushingIt style... JACK I LUV U...will u PLEASE PLEASE MARRY ME AND HAVE MY BABIES!? PRETTY PLEASE?!? I know I am a dude but we all have our flaws...am I not human?!? DO I NOT BLEED?!? Can't you look past my flaws?!?!?

Anyway running 20-25 gallon cocoa pots in a 14x1000 all vertical manifold room. There is 26 spots for plants, 8 surrounded by 2 1000s (for first 2 weekers), 14 surrounded by 3 1000s and 4 spots with 2 1000s and LEDs for the late flowering girls...right now getting 12-18 ozers but should be getting more like 2 per plant.

Jack uses 1 Tea but right now I am doing 5. EWC tea (instructions on ogBioWar.com), veg compost tea, Afalfa Tea, Early Flower Compost Tea, Then Late Flower tea (where I add honey, real maple syrup, agave nectar and coconut sugar) or Molasses/ Pure Cane Sugar for the others with a little maxi kelp/ fish and humics. Love me some neem meal too.

Although mono cropping you wouldn't need so many teas, but it works good for perpetual.

Beneficials I mainly use are Mycos, Azos, Endomax and Caps Root pack for veg teas, then Veganic Special Sauce, Super Tea and High P Bat Guano for flower.

I mix the teas custom for each phase of growth so during the tea flush the veg ones get mostly veg teas, late flower gets mostly alfalfa and Delicious Tea, etc. My only advice is go easy on the afalfa except near the end, especially when using sea green, floralicious or other growth enhancers.

I have been using DynaGro Bloom 3-12-6 instead of Canna Cocoa 5-4-3 for flower and my loompas look much happier as she gets that nitrogen toxic claws easy. Been giving Organic nutes before and after the tea flush...nectar of the gods before and Humbolt Natural after. Plants love to have a mix of different base nutes as it clears up toxicities/ deficiencies for the most part, gives bennies more food, and reduces salt build improving flavor and overall quality.

This is getting too long so I will end with my respective flowering chart.

Feed 1 2 days Tea Flush

Feed 2 Humbolt Natural Base + Humics + Fulvics + Extra Left Over Tea (let it brew for at least 24 hours to get them all chelated)

Feed 3 Aptus Week 1, Bloombastic week 4-6 and just base nutes for the rest.

Feed 4 Just Base Salt Nutes + small amount of Sea Green. Start Brewing Teas again

Feed 5 Aptus Week 2-4, Aptus Week 5-7, Base for the rest and Possibly Bloombastic.

Feed 6 Nectar of the Gods Base brewed 24 hours with a lil Tea...

Then Star Over.

All feeds could last for 1-2 actual days depending on how heavy I feed them. And I usually give about half the recommend Aptus feed except full dose Fasilitor. Adding some IBA and Rootementary for the early girls in there too.

I like doing Moab/ (or Big Up) 2-4 times during the cycle for weeks 6-7ers with heavy alfalfa or snow storm +half base, usually on the Organic days but whenever is needed. I go easy on the alfalfa tea and mainly use it for these at 6-7 weeks.

I did a test of Moab SnowStorm vs. Canna Boost + PK 13/14 vs another end of flower combo and it was 5 oz vs 3 vs 3 Moab Snowstorm the huge winner. And with that combo you can get a good 20% additonal flowers after the strain usually stops producing and she goes super super frosty. Still need to do some testing/ equilibrating with Aptus Finale Boost.

Also really like moab as an early foliar...spray on buds =)

Just added the organic nutes and the plants love the mix of base fertilizers, clears up any problems in the line.

So for the flush I hit them with moab snowstorm alfalfa right before and after the tea flush, then switch to R/O and maybe give them one more week dose of Moab Snowstorm then give them at least 4 days of straight R/O. With all the tea flushing this counts as a good 2 week flush while still doing some top shooting.

Jack recommends the a similar thing...flushing for 2 weeks but starting off with .8 ec and slowly going down to pure r/o for the last two days, but he isn't hip to the Moab/Snowstorm combo.

For PH Jack says 5.8-.6.3 with 6 being the sweet spot for cocoa. Also have heard people doing 6.5 with cocoa but the stems turn purple. Says he doesn't PH his teas its 6.5. I find my teas super low PH, from Hybrix unless I brew them for a couple days so I add some PH up or brew them for longer.

Also do as much bloomastbic as possible it will purple out your shit!!! Just look at this beautiful Katsu =) Still tweaking this system so this is highly speculative and I would follow Jacks advice but just giving some ideas.

I dare not even try to read over what I just wrote as that giant block of text is already giving me a headache so I will end with...

JACK I LUV U EVEN MORE THAN KEEP PUSHING IT!!! Will you please have one of my babies?!?!...After all the bullshit information I provided I think one baby is THE LEAST YOU CAN DO...

Regards.
 

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Why use the Teas with Coco and Synthetics? I feel like I grow pretty perfect plants and average about 2-2.5lbs per light and I seriously only use the base nute and just concentrate more on my topping and weaving techniques rather than tons of additives.

Maybe someone can fill me in on why so many boosters, boomers and this and that are being used?
 
Thats fucking hilarious!
Imid for fungus gnats?
Thats fucking ridiculous!
Any idea how many days imid will stay in the plant?
Theres a 12 month control claim and they tell you not to even use the fruit and citrus more than once a year!
The only safe way to use that shit indoors is as a quarantine for new cuts that will just be cloned and not flowered

Well i'll go ahead and call bullshit on that one. imidicloprid kills fungus gnat larvae as well as root aphids.
 

Smoke342

New member
Yeah there is something to be said for keeping it simple and easy, but I prefer the taste and smell you get from organics so I try to find a good balance and do as much organics as possible.

My system is very complicated and certainty not a good place to start for beginners, but I would go 100% organic if I could still get big buds but I tried and my yields were way down so I prefer to find a balance.

Once I get up to 2 pounds a plant, I will be more fit to give advice, but for me 2 pounds a plant would be closer to 3-4 pounds a light...love me some verticals.

To each there own I suppose. Good point.
 
Yeah there is something to be said for keeping it simple and easy, but I prefer the taste and smell you get from organics so I try to find a good balance and do as much organics as possible.

My system is very complicated and certainty not a good place to start for beginners, but I would go 100% organic if I could still get big buds but I tried and my yields were way down so I prefer to find a balance.

Once I get up to 2 pounds a plant, I will be more fit to give advice, but for me 2 pounds a plant would be closer to 3-4 pounds a light...love me some verticals.

To each there own I suppose. Good point.

Who cares what you get per plant. All you should care about is how much you get PER LIGHT. Plant size is speculative.

I get 2-2.5lbs per LIGHT. Sometimes 9 plants, sometimes 12. Who cares. As long as the weight is there the amount of plants is irrelievant
 
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