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2016 Outdoor Garden of Eden

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Slipnot

Member
totally agree with this ,
you need to stay on your game with large plants , they need a lot of available nutrients . another reason why i like smaller plants , they are a lot more forgiving and less demanding . ( well i find )
with all the soil talk round here , i,m actually very surprised to see any deficiency....... theres 20 pages of soil talk . lol

no offence to you either foothill , i,m loving those light deps your pumping out , running through all the strains is very exciting

@slownickel
@caterpiller710
i,d enjoy seeing some of your grows fella,s ...... offering all this advice , your grows must be unreal. we could all learn a lot following a thread of yours . do either of you guys plan to share your grows with us ?( this is not sarcasm either , its genuine interest )


the problem with big plants is the compaction rate no matter what anyone says people blindy go on adding amendments make there soils from scratch yet forget that after time no matter what compaction comes into play
As for my self i always like to till my soil every now and then and mix compost as well have a decent mulch on top of soil

When we take a look at most out door grows talking big tree grows what are we seeing ??? other then soil less medium tons of perlite and a drip line
we have in a sense moved away from a perfect soil mix to a to air raided mix causing to fast of gas exchange in soil which also depletes soils quality even faster
the real goal is making a soil that is perfect in all aspects gas exchange CEC quality and most importantly holding properties
and keeping a perfect carbon cycle going with out human interference as much as possible
Lets face it were can not keep our paws from always fucking around with one thing or another
not realizing were doing more harm then good

I like to plant and walk away let mother nature nuture my plants that includes rain water only

how can i prove this theory ??? simple longest drought i had was 3 weeks with no rain plants got nothing . and looked great
I dare anyone to stop watering there plants for 3 weeks with there bone meal, blood meal , dolomite lime amended soils whats the chances the plant will be almost dead ??? if not Dead

And that is the difference 99 percent of the amended so called organic soils are in no way comparible to mother natures true soil blend that is perfect in every which way and form
 

Slipnot

Member
This year was rush rush getting houses up solar power up etc over the winter plans are to make couple of these systems for green house plans are to bottom feed place them like 2 stage feeding systems Bottom fed drip lines and manually keep top beds moist
probably do few next year and see if there is any difference
probably invest in moisture probs that control pumps
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gRQXE_-YpUw
 

FoothillFarming

Active member
Cater710 - Dam! Those are some of the healthiest plants I have seen. Amazing job brother. I have a thing or 7 million to learn from growers like you.

As for "derailing" the thread. Never worry about that in my thread guys. As long as we don't concentrate too much on dead hooker snatch smells, it's all good, lol.

I suppose I will write up what SlowNickel recommended for me so others can compare.

1-1.2 lbs Fine ground Gypsum (apply now and once in two weeks)

1.4-1.6 grams of Manganese sulfate

.2-.3 copper sulfate

20 grams Potassium sulfate.

This got applied to each 200 gallon pot. Doubled for the 400's, quadrupled for the 800's ext.
 

FoothillFarming

Active member
@SlowNickel

How long should I wait before I can take more soil samples? Do the sulfates effect the testing?

Cater710 - I didn't know who you were before when you were telling me to get soil samples.....Sorry for not paying attention right away. How often do you take samples from the same locations? Do you concentrate on problem areas, or do you sample everything?
 

FoothillFarming

Active member
Here are some water samples. I took one a while ago, and one in the early spring this year. Not sure how much this changes over time, it comes from ground water/well.

How often do you guys test your water?

How does my water look?

When I first got my results back I was stoked. I was thinking this is good quality water. Now I worry about the sodium levels......what about you guys?

picture.php


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Top test was through Dirty Business Soil and Analysis.......Don't ever use that lab, they are terrible. Second test was with Logan Labs. SlowNickel told me a water test is a water test, not much variance between labs.
 
your water isn't the best water to start with you may want some N-pHuric to correct your water before irrigation. It'll help with the sodium and pH
 

FoothillFarming

Active member
I am clueless on how to apply/calculate/mix anything regarding water. I have a 3000 gallon holding tank. I think in order for me to adjust my water, I would need automatic injectors.

I don't think I will be at this farm next year, so I am hesitant to install expensive new equipment. Not sure it's needed however.
 
An injector would make your life very easy but it isn't necessary , you can calculate the total amount of n-pHuric you would need per 1000 gallon and add that to your stock tank and mix.

If you don't address your irrigation water nothing you do o. The soil will matter because you're going to start displacing stuff with the 50lbs to the acre Na as soon as you start irrigating again


Sea Shield is also a very good pH adjustor but that's not the problem the sodium and total alkalinity is the problem compounded with bicarbs at 260...
 
I like to test from areas there are any kind of anomaly good or bad so I can see what the soils doing compared to what I consider ideal growth for the stage
 

FoothillFarming

Active member
Well FML. I don't use the entire 3000 gal a day, so I would need meters at least right? I know some people get rid of Na with Taino products.........Spectrum I believe?
 
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