R
rüdiger
very nice oktopussy you got, sweet emotion
what a beautiful structure!
what a beautiful structure!
Zamaldelica - The Search for Trip Weed
- Thread starter ThaiBliss
- Start date
^^ exactly what happened to my burmese. the id run was chopped relatively early indoors 'cause the seeds on her were ready. great stuff. the od very mature burmese bud was strange bud. mood swing weed. never heard of it before. it could actually make me and my strain tester suffer feelings of despair. the amber trichs definitely seem to change the up daytime/early eve. effects to sedative or other types of more down effects in some sativas.
^ there is a thread on ace about proper time to pop sativas. i posted that i grow od and go by feel. i actually use my fingers and go by a certain crusty feel. i will take several harvests on some sativas that can continue for up to a month. my strain tester and i have been sampling jezebel (highland oaxacan red) taken at 4 different harvest times. the best high was the first (oct. 15th). this was the high that i posted. great up high with almost no cure time. the highs in the last 3 harvests were not as good, but still very nice sativa type smoke.
we now are sampling the different jezebel harvests (different bags marked as to harvest times) at later cure dates. the terpenes changed but not necessarily for the better. the early uncured jezebel had a strong grassy overtone followed by a delightful angelfood cake spice taste that was my strain testers favorite daytime smoke for high, potency and taste. she loved this stuff. as the first harvest cured out the high depreciated somewhat and the taste lost much of the spice that she loved. the smells were all greatly improved to my nose with additional cure time and later maturity before being picked.
from now on i'm going to mark all bags on my sativas as to "picked date".
we have learned to drop preconceptions 'cause a lot of our preconceptions turned out to be misconceptions.
Greetings,
Sweet Emotion - Thanks for posting a picture of your plant before harvest. I was wondering what happened to it. Looks really good.
Idiit - Glad to hear of your harvest timing testings. It is a reminder to get to know your strain. I've had plants completely change for the better letting it go a couple of weeks longer than I normally would, and I've ruined a perfectly good plant by trying to take it a few weeks longer to see what would happen.
I harvested a Zamaldelica x Malawi Gold plant recently. It appears to be a Zamal leaning individual. It is drying now. Here are some pictures:
ThaiBliss
Sweet Emotion - Thanks for posting a picture of your plant before harvest. I was wondering what happened to it. Looks really good.
Idiit - Glad to hear of your harvest timing testings. It is a reminder to get to know your strain. I've had plants completely change for the better letting it go a couple of weeks longer than I normally would, and I've ruined a perfectly good plant by trying to take it a few weeks longer to see what would happen.
I harvested a Zamaldelica x Malawi Gold plant recently. It appears to be a Zamal leaning individual. It is drying now. Here are some pictures:
ThaiBliss
Hi all!...I cut it because it was starting to get really cold here where I live, and also I don't like down effects. Although I read Terpene's words about the almost terryfing high, I had to do it on time. It still had some white hairs and thricomes were 60% cloudy 40% clear, more or less.
I cut a little bud like 20 days ago and smoked it last saturday. One kiss was enough to feel that the bud had it's potential, although not fully developed. Anyway, it was the most clear head high I ever experienced, and I could note the potential raciness to it. Now and then, the smell is a mix of lemon, oranges and jasmines. When I test the cured buds, I'll report it here.
Cheers
I cut a little bud like 20 days ago and smoked it last saturday. One kiss was enough to feel that the bud had it's potential, although not fully developed. Anyway, it was the most clear head high I ever experienced, and I could note the potential raciness to it. Now and then, the smell is a mix of lemon, oranges and jasmines. When I test the cured buds, I'll report it here.
Cheers
R
rüdiger
hi ThaiBliss,
how long was that Zamaldelica x Malawi gold flowering?
I read through this and it seems to me that you tend to take the sativas on the early side, maybe try the delica a tad later.
I think it is combination of resin glands @different maturity which make for a trippy, long lasting experience.
could be also very strain(pheno) dependent.
rüdiger
,how long was that Zamaldelica x Malawi gold flowering?
I read through this and it seems to me that you tend to take the sativas on the early side, maybe try the delica a tad later.
I think it is combination of resin glands @different maturity which make for a trippy, long lasting experience.
could be also very strain(pheno) dependent.
rüdiger
hi ThaiBliss
how long was that Zamaldelica x Malawi gold flowering?
I read through this and it seems to me that you tend to take the sativas on the early side, maybe try the delica a tad later.
I think it is combination of resin glands @different maturity which make for a trippy, long lasting experience.
could be also very strain(pheno) dependent.
Hi Rudiger,
How ripe does this look to you?
I harvested this plant over a period of about 3 weeks, harvesting from the bottom up as they looked like this one.
I have experimented with some Golden Tigers at different times. When Golden Tiger looked ripe, it changed from clear to amber very quickly. It seemed like it almost skipped the cloudy phase. I liked the early harvest the best. I used this kernel of knowledge and applied it to Zamaldelica.
I'll have to grow more to do further testing.
ThaiBliss
R
rüdiger
I have experimented with some Golden Tigers at different times. When Golden Tiger looked ripe, it changed from clear to amber very quickly. It seemed like it almost skipped the cloudy phase. I liked the early harvest the best. I used this kernel of knowledge and applied it to Zamaldelica.
I'll have to grow more to do further testing.
ThaiBliss
very intresting observation!
i also try my zamaldelica in harvest window like 9-11 weeks, shes a fast pheno(malawi/zamal, fem.).
so how long was this zamaldelica x malawi gold flowering you posted above(window)?
I have 5 other zam seedlings right now, one of them has much more thin leaves! will post some pic when it gets intresting and is ok to post here!?
rüdiger
so how long was this zamaldelica x malawi gold flowering you posted above(window)?
I had to go back to my postings on the thread where I documented it. I started harvesting in the 10th week, and got done by the 11th.
The pure Zamaldelica went 9 weeks. While going back in this thread, I saw a post from Mayan that his went 16 weeks. If Mayan's picture is at 16 weeks, it still does not look ripe. Apparently, there is wide variation.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showpost.php?p=6156145&postcount=179
It looks like I did not take any harvest pictures. The leaves of that plant looked almost as pretty as Sweet Emotion's:
Good gosh! Please post the pictures here, and write up a few reports on the effects for any various harvest timings. Love to hear your opinions on it.
I'll get back to growing a few of these again. I have some other plants I need to test first. I'd love it if this thread is still alive when I get around to it again.
Thanks,
ThaiBliss
R
rüdiger
here we have a cutting of Zamaldelica fem. (Z#1).
I took her @9 weeks, fearing loss by very high humidity right now.
flouro grown with 4200k t5, 0,5 liter container(soil).
the lightning schedule was ~11/13.
fed 8-12-24 @0,6-0,9ec(tap 0,3) combined with worm tea.
about the variation:
I make my observations and think a big factor are the differnt growing conditions every one of us have.
It seems that most pure sativas react with a delayed onset of flowering and fluffy clusters when they get much N and a standard 12/12 sched..
against this, being fed more on the PK side, combined with less light hours(11/13;10/14 ...) and a certain level of rootboundness...
can create much faster flowering with denser bud(in the same pheno), imho.
we always should compare the conditions they flower in, when comparing our different phenotypes, me thinks.
Rüdiger
also the light spectra and especially the transfered radiant heat by most indoor setups can make a big difference in terpene production and development.
this is Z#1 14day in, 0,3l each, worm tea only so far.
I took her @9 weeks, fearing loss by very high humidity right now.
flouro grown with 4200k t5, 0,5 liter container(soil).
the lightning schedule was ~11/13.
fed 8-12-24 @0,6-0,9ec(tap 0,3) combined with worm tea.
about the variation:
I make my observations and think a big factor are the differnt growing conditions every one of us have.
It seems that most pure sativas react with a delayed onset of flowering and fluffy clusters when they get much N and a standard 12/12 sched..
against this, being fed more on the PK side, combined with less light hours(11/13;10/14 ...) and a certain level of rootboundness...
can create much faster flowering with denser bud(in the same pheno), imho.
we always should compare the conditions they flower in, when comparing our different phenotypes, me thinks.
Rüdiger
also the light spectra and especially the transfered radiant heat by most indoor setups can make a big difference in terpene production and development.
this is Z#1 14day in, 0,3l each, worm tea only so far.
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Hallo Ruediger!
Your observations sound quite sound making me think of Darwing and his natural adaptation/evolution and at the same time giving me high hopes for an auspicious harvest November coming without extreme weather conditions...
ThaiBliss, that red twig is just mouth drooling!
Orfeas
Your observations sound quite sound making me think of Darwing and his natural adaptation/evolution and at the same time giving me high hopes for an auspicious harvest November coming without extreme weather conditions...
ThaiBliss, that red twig is just mouth drooling!
Orfeas
I couldn't agree more. I restrict nitrogen. I usually start with 12/12, and go to 11.5/12.5 after a couple months. This, in combination with keeping temperatures cool, can shave off a couple of weeks in total flowering time and greatly lesson fox-tailing.
I also have seen dramatically increased potency from restricting nitrogen. However, I'm starting to question this strategy since I have been growing a number of strains that people rave about, and I haven't been impressed. I've thought it likely that it is all about the particular individual selected, but I wonder if some strains like low levels of nitrogen and others do not. I believe growing the same strain over a long period of time can help the grower learn a lot about the uniqueness of the strain and increase the quality and potency of the end product.
I also use a high pressure sodium and metal halide combination of light source.
Orpheas - I'm looking forward to seeing your next updates in your Zamaldelica and Bangi Haze outdoor grow.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=282288
My Bangi Haze and NepalJam plants got terrible transplant shock, so I have been embarrassed to take pictures. Most have finally turned around and started looking healthy again. I tested the soil for PH level, and I found it to be too acidic. I added calcium carbonate, and fertilized with 5-1-1 fish meal. It worked, to my great relief.
I shared some of the Bangi Haze hash I made with a friend, and it made a great impression on him. He has a bit of autism, and he smokes to reduce anxiety. You should have seen the smile on his face and how social he became after a couple of hits. Bangi Haze is "life is good" / "happy weed" for sure.
Irie!
ThaiBliss
R
rüdiger
true. must not be only nitrogen - thinking of diverse soil/media compositions and minerals(and the guys inside). maybe too much work...
good to eat many small pieces over long time
....
Orpheas - I'm looking forward to seeing your next updates in your Zamaldelica and Bangi Haze outdoor grow.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=282288
My Bangi Haze and NepalJam plants got terrible transplant shock, so I have been embarrassed to take pictures. Most have finally turned around and started looking healthy again. I tested the soil for PH level, and I found it to be too acidic. I added calcium carbonate, and fertilized with 5-1-1 fish meal. It worked, to my great relief.
I shared some of the Bangi Haze hash I made with a friend, and it made a great impression on him. He has a bit of autism, and he smokes to reduce anxiety. You should have seen the smile on his face and how social he became after a couple of hits. Bangi Haze is "life is good" / "happy weed" for sure.
Irie!
ThaiBliss
Glad they turned round!
Yea, Banghi effect is all the rage and it's something we desperately need here in Greece with all this pestering recession!
Harvest time is way way ahead but can you recall the stage the trichomes were at when harvesting?
rüdiger
emphasis mine
ok, idiit is going to bring up a very important topic on a few landrace threads starting here, right now. ^ bolded area of rudiger's post quote.
i've been posting on the soil remineralization threads that we need to pay attention to "chelated trace minerals". trace minerals are difficult to chelate by the indigeneous micro critters. there are these little known, little talked about bacteria that are good at cheating trace minerals: Organisms that eat rocks are known as lithotrophs ("rock eaters") and are mostly Bacteria and Archaea but also some fungi.
here is the page on a mineral thread where i discuss this a little: https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=133648&page=22
i have noticed that my product from clones grown in shit soil is not nearly as good in many strains as product from identical clones grown in lush soil. perhaps rüdiger's above quoted post is right on the money. what if in order to produce top quality high effects and potency we need to grow in an environment where the trace minerals are readily available (chelated)?
sea solids are an excellent source of chelated trace minerals. also, i've gone a step further and soaked some azomite for around 9 months now in an archaea dominate microherd:
archaea are one class of lithotrophs ("rock eaters").
if you read the bam (black african magic) threads and the malawi threads (buried cobs) you read about intense psychoactive effects. the bam is reported to be reduced to shake that looks like shit but smokes like nothing else. the malawi cobs are buried. perhaps in africa the indigeneous micro herd is different and also contributes to the special cure that produces the special high effects and potency. maybe the microherd is also important in "chelating" the psychoactive components of the thc,cbd,cbn, thcv, terpenes, etc....
seacrop sea solids are water suspended and i believe can be washed out to some degree by rain/watering. this is the first year all of my outdoor plants will have a heaping tablespoon (yes, i think only a tablespoon of chelated trace minerals is all that is required) of chelated (to some degree) trace minerals from my azomite bucket pictured above.
speculation aside; many preconceptions are if fact misconceptions. the proof is in the puddin'.
we'll see.
This makes me think of terroir:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Terroir
The environment is said to greatly influence how wines turn out, the same grapes produce different wine in different locations. The scientists have now attributed the differences on the bacteria found in the soil. Perhaps, just perhaps these bacteria also affect the way a bud cures.
^^ thanks thule.
the idea of adding trace minerals to the soil without a thought as to what types of micro organisms are to be used to make these trace minerals available and without an application of testing (that was once utilized) to actually determine if the plant did in fact uptake these supplements ........... c'mon now!. the importance of trace minerals to plants cannot be overemphaised.
^^ ppl need to really ponder this one. monsanto type big chem/big agra pulled a fast one here.
^ i searched ic mag for "lithotrophs" and only found 4 posts, two of them mine. the other two casually mentioned but did not explain lithotrophs.
what a lot of ppl don't realize is that most organic food in the usa is not labeled as to trace mineral content. the organic movement seems to be dominated by organic production techniques yet conspicuously leaving out the actual evaluations of the actual product itself! food's trace mineral content used to be labeled but is no longer published. we are supposed to be eating healthy food, not healthy production methodology! to complete the scam they certified the method and eliminated testing to demonstrate whether or not the method actually works!
in cannabis we are publishing brix testing results, but remember "back in the day" they could and did publish trace mineral content itself, not just a "correlation" test. if they could back then why aren't we doing so today?
there are very few things that can kill archaea. of the very few the top two are; chlorine and chemical fertilizers! think chlorinated tap water. think wallmart plant store's plant fertilizers.
^^ this is vital stuff that is being totally ignored today!
^ that stuff is about chelating trace minerals for better plant uptake availability. the second question re special bacteria being better at making the plant's natural cannaboids more available to human's medical and recreational drug uptakes is a radical thought with some interesting potential.
the idea of adding trace minerals to the soil without a thought as to what types of micro organisms are to be used to make these trace minerals available and without an application of testing (that was once utilized) to actually determine if the plant did in fact uptake these supplements ........... c'mon now!
. the importance of trace minerals to plants cannot be overemphaised.^^ ppl need to really ponder this one. monsanto type big chem/big agra pulled a fast one here.
^ i searched ic mag for "lithotrophs" and only found 4 posts, two of them mine. the other two casually mentioned but did not explain lithotrophs.
what a lot of ppl don't realize is that most organic food in the usa is not labeled as to trace mineral content. the organic movement seems to be dominated by organic production techniques yet conspicuously leaving out the actual evaluations of the actual product itself! food's trace mineral content used to be labeled but is no longer published. we are supposed to be eating healthy food, not healthy production methodology! to complete the scam they certified the method and eliminated testing to demonstrate whether or not the method actually works!
in cannabis we are publishing brix testing results, but remember "back in the day" they could and did publish trace mineral content itself, not just a "correlation" test. if they could back then why aren't we doing so today?
there are very few things that can kill archaea. of the very few the top two are; chlorine and chemical fertilizers! think chlorinated tap water. think wallmart plant store's plant fertilizers.
^^ this is vital stuff that is being totally ignored today!
^ that stuff is about chelating trace minerals for better plant uptake availability. the second question re special bacteria being better at making the plant's natural cannaboids more available to human's medical and recreational drug uptakes is a radical thought with some interesting potential.
R
rüdiger
@ idiit; Thule
now you got me goin
post#40(carbon.chains):
'[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I'd like to add that an untouched plant has been fertilized by past generations dying and returning their nutrients to the soil, resulting in a net gain to the soil
The need for external nutrients comes from man being a "bandit" and stealing this return by harvesting.
If you keep growing in the same soil and harvest everything (well excluding the roots) you will in the end grow weaker, lower-yielding, less pest and disease resistant, plants; this may or may not affect the high.
Fertilizing only with manure is not sufficient in supplying certain nutrients; it has been proven that soil lacking minerals will grow less nutrient-dense food crops, more susceptible to pests and disease. (Also a contributing factor the food-related problems of our societies).'
[/FONT]did someone ever try to compost a full ripe cannabis harvest(all biomass) in a worm bin and flower the same strain again in the resulting castings? (I know its cruelbut sounds so true)
for a first step i will try to make a malawi cob in my worm bin.hehe
rüdiger
idiit, do you think a very low dosed chemical fertilizer would kill the archaea?(ec 0,5)
now you got me goin
post#40(carbon.chains):
'[FONT=Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif]I'd like to add that an untouched plant has been fertilized by past generations dying and returning their nutrients to the soil, resulting in a net gain to the soil
The need for external nutrients comes from man being a "bandit" and stealing this return by harvesting.
If you keep growing in the same soil and harvest everything (well excluding the roots) you will in the end grow weaker, lower-yielding, less pest and disease resistant, plants; this may or may not affect the high.
Fertilizing only with manure is not sufficient in supplying certain nutrients; it has been proven that soil lacking minerals will grow less nutrient-dense food crops, more susceptible to pests and disease. (Also a contributing factor the food-related problems of our societies).'
[/FONT]did someone ever try to compost a full ripe cannabis harvest(all biomass) in a worm bin and flower the same strain again in the resulting castings? (I know its cruel
but sounds so true)for a first step i will try to make a malawi cob in my worm bin.hehe
rüdiger
idiit, do you think a very low dosed chemical fertilizer would kill the archaea?(ec 0,5)
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I might sound as a layman alright, which I actually am, but I know of an old man who's been cultivating his one-hectare land for the last 25 years or so, growing vegetables ( alas not cannabis!) without having ever added any kind of fertilizer whatsoever and yet getting good crops...
Hey, Ruediger, you might as well go downunder, Shark Bay and learn first-hand!
Hey, Ruediger, you might as well go downunder, Shark Bay and learn first-hand!
Greetings,
I was introduced to compost teas a few years ago and was amazed at the immediate results in the form of healthy looking plants. I have always composted heavily for all my outdoor plants. The tea is like supercharging the soil biotical organisms, which produce micro manure on their own, but also are critical in breaking down soil mineral and organic elements.
On the other hand, I would challenge you to find any grape grower that would agree that making the plants as healthy and vigorous as possible will produce the best quality of grape. Part of the terroir is the lack of optimal nutrients, minerals, or water, and the struggle of the plant in that particular environment.
I'm using fish fertilizer and seaweed tea to get my outdoor plants started, because I have a thick bed of compost on some crappy soil, red clay and decomposed granite. The large amount of organic matter is competing with the plants for nitrogen. When it gets warm enough to start brewing some compost teas I'll do that to get them big until the beginning of July. Then I go to only pure water which brings back a nitrogen deficit, slowing down the growth and giving the plants the struggle of the true nature of the less than optimal soil. This seems to concentrate the resins on slightly smaller buds as compared to a babied plant. It also brings out some hidden color as the green chlorophylls are reduced.
I contained a mix of 30% aged compost 40% leaves and green compost from the previous fall and 30% river bottom soil in a fruit box cut into the side of a hill with rugged clay and decomposed granite soil. The fruit box has lots of holes drilled into it for aeration and so the roots can grow into the natural soil.
Late June:
Late August:
Late September:
Harvest:
I have not grown outside for a couple of years. I'm growing this year because I have a strain I like that may get done in time for this area, Bangi Haze:
ThaiBliss
I was introduced to compost teas a few years ago and was amazed at the immediate results in the form of healthy looking plants. I have always composted heavily for all my outdoor plants. The tea is like supercharging the soil biotical organisms, which produce micro manure on their own, but also are critical in breaking down soil mineral and organic elements.
On the other hand, I would challenge you to find any grape grower that would agree that making the plants as healthy and vigorous as possible will produce the best quality of grape. Part of the terroir is the lack of optimal nutrients, minerals, or water, and the struggle of the plant in that particular environment.
I'm using fish fertilizer and seaweed tea to get my outdoor plants started, because I have a thick bed of compost on some crappy soil, red clay and decomposed granite. The large amount of organic matter is competing with the plants for nitrogen. When it gets warm enough to start brewing some compost teas I'll do that to get them big until the beginning of July. Then I go to only pure water which brings back a nitrogen deficit, slowing down the growth and giving the plants the struggle of the true nature of the less than optimal soil. This seems to concentrate the resins on slightly smaller buds as compared to a babied plant. It also brings out some hidden color as the green chlorophylls are reduced.
I contained a mix of 30% aged compost 40% leaves and green compost from the previous fall and 30% river bottom soil in a fruit box cut into the side of a hill with rugged clay and decomposed granite soil. The fruit box has lots of holes drilled into it for aeration and so the roots can grow into the natural soil.
Late June:
Late August:
Late September:
Harvest:
I have not grown outside for a couple of years. I'm growing this year because I have a strain I like that may get done in time for this area, Bangi Haze:
ThaiBliss
