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Diary White Rhino & Friends. Fall 2021 Grow.

aliceklar

Well-known member
Taken cuttings off SQxA #2 & used the main stem as host for a scion taken from Green Gelato. zif, I recall you had some great pics of the grafting process- I've had a look but cant find them now... could you post a link? I think I've got it about right but would be good to see your process again!
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
Last couple of grows I thought I knew what I was doing. I was mistaken...

Everything was working for you with soil and tap water.

You may have had a bad batch of compost that caused all your problems.

You may have spent your latest grow just mending poisoned plants.

Your hard tap water wasn't an issue until you needed to lower the PH for the soil less grow media.
 

aliceklar

Well-known member
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exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
Well, with no problems to solve, growing will not be such and addictive sport. So be glad it keeps you on your toes. And that you're a fast learner. Many people have problems, but not all manage to learn from them. You seem to be progressing, and that's good.
 

aliceklar

Well-known member
Well, with no problems to solve, growing will not be such and addictive sport. So be glad it keeps you on your toes. And that you're a fast learner. Many people have problems, but not all manage to learn from them. You seem to be progressing, and that's good.

Thanks for the kind words PC. I like a challenge.... Tho this grow has been testing me 😅 ... always more to learn eh. Am hoping for less plant-drama and more blissful budding in the coming weeks.

It can't make that one any better, but some thoughts on grafting and photos of my approach are here: https://www.icmag.com/forum/icmag-ve...4#post12545947

Can't wait to see what happens with yours!

Your pictures were the inspiration zif. Lets see if the grafts take... Tried a second one (BSGxJ > GG) last night after taking a cut off the GG. Both holding up so far... If I can get some of these plants stacked onto fewer rootstocks, it will save so much space. Also a potentially a fast way of sexing multiple plants simultaneously.

Keen to find out if the BSGxJohaar is female, as I suspect. She's big and vigorous, with a lovely open structure with lots of branching. Johaar NLD leaf formation seems dominant. Might just pop a cut in a glass of water into flower to find out.

Blueberries, White Rhino and Medical Mass all recovered and putting on plenty of lush green.

Some of the MMJ and MMWR in perlite/coco still looking yellowish. Wondering what the problem is with them.
 

exploziv

pure dynamite
Administrator
Veteran
Thanks for the kind words PC. I like a challenge.... Tho this grow has been testing me 😅 ... always more to learn eh. Am hoping for less plant-drama and more blissful budding in the coming weeks.

I am not PC, you too high! :wave:
 

aliceklar

Well-known member
MW2 and MJ2 (both in compost/perlite) are lush green and growing well. Most of the other MM family F1s and F2s - particularly the ones in coco/perlite - are paler than I like to see, with some looking like they might stall completely. MW2 has great compact chunky form alongside the healthy green growth - one to keep an eye on. I'll give them a bit longer but I'm minded to just cull the crappy ones - I have no shortage of healthy plants, and very limited space.

MM / WR / Blueberry all taking off 😍

Did another graft last night. Host: SQxA#1 Scion: BSGxA#3

Seems an efficient addition to the process to take a cut for cloning and at the same time pop in a scion from another plant to fill the gap. Will try this with the MM F1s & F2s to consolidate numbers.
 

aliceklar

Well-known member
Going to cull this one.
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Wondering if all the yellowing is overfeeding?
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All grafts inc yesterdays (below) taking well. Perked up after slight drooping.
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PCBuds

Well-known member
If it is a nitrogen deficiency, the plant is probably just hungry.

Nitrogen shouldn't get locked out with any reasonable PH going on.

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If the plant is "damaged" it may not be able to green up the leaves.

The leaves may be permanently damaged but the new growth may look better.

The purple stems suggest stress but the new leaves and stems may look better and a healthy green.
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
Wondering if all the yellowing is overfeeding?

Overfeeding would mean nute burn and for me it always showed as yellow/burnt leaf tips,not an overall yellowing of the leaf.
It starts at the tips, then the serrations then burns into the leaf and the edges of the leaf are yellow then brown.



More from that thread...


"Nutrient Burn causes leaf tips to appear yellow or burnt. They can also be brown and twisted and crispy looking. Depending on the severity it can show many different symptoms and shows on lower part of the plant when its young, at older stages it can move anywhere on the plant."



Screenshot_20211215-185652_DuckDuckGo.jpg


Screenshot_20211215-185729_DuckDuckGo.jpg
 

PCBuds

Well-known member
I'm pretty sure that this is the start of nute burn on my plant recently.

It happened just after I increased my nutes.


IMG_20211207_200041.jpg
 

aliceklar

Well-known member
If it is a nitrogen deficiency, the plant is probably just hungry.

Nitrogen shouldn't get locked out with any reasonable PH going on.

If the plant is "damaged" it may not be able to green up the leaves.

The leaves may be permanently damaged but the new growth may look better.

The purple stems suggest stress but the new leaves and stems may look better and a healthy green.

These plants didnt experience the pH issues or bad compost stress the others did - the sickest looking of this newest batch were all started in coco/perlite and pH has been on point - going in at c5.5 and coming out at 6 or slightly higher. This is in the right range for coco, and a bit low for the ones in the compost (ive been lazy and just watered them with the same mix)- but the ones in coco/perlite are showing general slight yellowing and specific interveinal yellowing, whilst the ones in compost/perlite are thriving. So I dont see how it can be pH.... it doesnt look like nute burn - but maybe an excess of something is causing a deficiency? Excess Calcium causing Mg deficiency maybe??

I have been feeding them with every watering, ppm in has been between c1100 and 750. Lately I've been reducing the ppm so for the past week or so its been at the lower end of that range. Biggest recent change has been using nitric acid pH down instead of citric acid, which should have increased the available N & Calcium.

Looking at the charts, the interveinal yellowing looks like magnesium deficiency. But I have been giving some supplemental espsom salts... so I'm confused. My inclination is to blame the genetics - unhealthy stuff could be segregating out in the F2. Unsure. watching and waiting and making sure not to overwater. Whilst I have some plants that are growing vigorously, I'm less concerned about saving all of them - maybe this is just an opportunity to select for the healthiest ones.
 

aliceklar

Well-known member
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Dimmed the lights a bit to get a better shot of the interveinal yellowing on the leaves. Its not just on the F1 MJ and F2 MW, its on just about everything to a lesser extent. My best guess is that since I started using the nitric acid pH down, its increased the amount of available calcium in my super-hard water (contains 260ppm calcium carbonate), causing an excess of calcium and a magnesium deficiency. I've been watering with an epsom salt supplement (adding between 20 and 50ppm) but maybe the plants cant absorb it because of the extra ca?

Some of the coco/perlite MJs and MWs look like they are hardly growing, hardly drinking. The ones in perlite/compost (terracotta colour pots) getting the wrong feeding mix are thriving. Go figure. Lights at c50cm, normally dimmed to 70%.

If I'm right about the Ca excess, then I need to flush with plain water, and give epsom salts and maybe some NPK as a foliar spray. If I'm wrong.... heheh. Jeez. Here we go. Am going to have a smoke and think about this some more!
 

aliceklar

Well-known member
Of course, I might have it completely wrong, and the pale leaves are because they are not getting enough feed, and the Mg deficiency just needs to be corrected with more Mg. The Canna A+B feed chart recommends 2.7ml / litre of A and B each, and I've been feeding between 2 and 1ml / litre each, towards the lower end in the last couple of weeks since I've been using the nitric pH down. In which case I need to up my feed rather than flushing with plain water... and try foliar mg?? (either way foliar Mg seems a good bet)

Its gotta be the water. Thats the only common factor. Completely unrelated plants, some in compost, some in coco & perlite, and some in plain perlite, all displaying the same symptoms. Need to get that water butt fixed.
 

aliceklar

Well-known member
Wonder if anyone has done breeding for tolerance of hard tapwater? That would be a useful trait. Guess I'll be selecting for it whether I realise or not if that is the environment.
 
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