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The trained alone Hulk! - Bruce Banner in 8/16

Rexel

Active member
Hi,

I've ressurected this account and I will start journaling. I'm on other sites too and people who knows my setup recognize me from other places.

I've been growing on and off since early 2000's mostly in hydro with HP Aero, DWC, flood tables and soilless with Promix/Coco Coir.

Currently I'm growing Bruce Banner the second run. I sprouted 8 seeds and ended up with one Strawberry Diesel leanong pheno that is really potent and yields well.

I'm doing something different this run with 8 hours of light and 16 hours of darkness in flower. I will finish them off last week or two with 6 hours of light. I've only seen positive morphological changes so far with more flower sites and shorter internodal length.

I started with two cutting that I vegged for 4 weeks and then I flipped them to flower and went on holiday. One feed line got clogged so then I was down to one plant that I needed to work with. Raised the net and spread her out. I've secured all of the main tops for better support.

Here's some pictures from the actual grow:
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At flip
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Coming home from 2 weeks holiday one dead plant.
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Removed the dead plant, lifted the netting and spread her out.
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Yesterday 50 days in
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Same pheno last run under 12/12. I think I let her go 83 days last time. Hope for a shorter turnover hopefully done in 70+ days.

I will update with regular monitoring of leachates/runoff. I currently feed 1.0 EC pH ~7.0 in flower 5x a day growing in Coco Coir. I follow plant response and leacheates to dial in pH and EC of the input.

Last couple of weeks output's been around:

1.0 EC in, EC 1.4-1.5 EC out. pH 7.0 in. pH 6.2 out.

I try to stay under 1.8 EC on sativa dominant on leacheates. pH is usually higher in veg and early flower to later crash in late flower with everything going on in the root zone.

I feed a copy of Jacks 3-2-1 that I mix from mineral salts. Hit me up if you want a recipe on a identical copy of Jacks 5-12-26 or 0-12-26. I've posted the recipes elsewhere but want to focus this on the actual plant in progress.

I mix that with Calcium nitrate at 4:2 ratio in flower with the smaller portion being Calcium Nitrate. I use potassium silicate as pH buffer and for overall structure and health that I order from the local hardware store. Potassium silicate is used to impregnate and seal concrete and 30% concentration is typical, that's better than 8.6% in Pro-tekt from Dyna Gro/Superthrive.

For chelators I use my own humic acid extract that I make from leonardite. I boil it in potassium hydroxide for 12 hours and then mix and dilute it in 5:2 ratio with kelp extract. The only commercial product I still use is Biobizz fish mix at 2.5ml per 10 liters of water to add some flavour with the organic sulfurs, lipids and amino acids.

Feel free to ask any questions about the grow or setup.

Cheers!
 
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Absorber

Well-known member
Hi,

I've ressurected this account and I will start journaling. I'm on other sites too and people who knows my setup recognize me from other places.

I've been growing on and off since early 2000's mostly in hydro with HP Aero, DWC, flood tables and soilless with Promix/Coco Coir.

Currently I'm growing Bruce Banner the second run. I sprouted 8 seeds and ended up with one Strawberry Diesel leanong pheno that is really potent and yields well.

I'm doing something different this run with 8 hours of light and 16 hours of darkness in flower. I will finish them off last week or two with 6 hours of light. I've only seen positive morphological changes so far with more flower sites and shorter internodal length.

I started with two cutting that I vegged for 4 weeks and then I flipped them to flower and went on holiday. One feed line got clogged so then I was down to one plant that I needed to work with. Raised the net and spread her out. I've secured all of the main tops for better support.

Here's some pictures from the actual grow:
View attachment 19139540 At flip
View attachment 19139541 Coming home from 2 weeks holiday one dead plant.
View attachment 19139542 Removed the dead plant, lifted the netting and spread her out. View attachment 19139545 Yesterday 50 days in View attachment 19139546 View attachment 19139547 View attachment 19139548 Same pheno last run under 12/12. I think I let her go 83 days last time. Hope for a shorter turnover hopefully done in 70+ days.

I will update with regular monitoring of leachates/runoff. I currently feed 1.0 EC pH ~7.0 in flower 5x a day growing in Coco Coir. I follow plant response and leacheates to dial in pH and EC of the input.

Last couple of weeks output's been around:

1.0 EC in, EC 1.4-1.5 EC out. pH 7.0 in. pH 6.2 out.

I try to stay under 1.8 EC on sativa dominant on leacheates. pH is usually higher in veg and early flower to later crash in late flower with everything going on in the root zone.

I feed a copy of Jacks 3-2-1 that I mix from mineral salts. Hit me up if you want a recipe on a identical copy of Jacks 5-12-26 or 0-12-26. I've posted the recipes elsewhere but want to focus this on the actual plant in progress.

I mix that with Calcium nitrate at 4:2 ratio in flower with the smaller portion being Calcium Nitrate. I use potassium silicate as pH buffer and for overall structure and health that I order from the local hardware store. Potassium silicate is used to impregnate and seal concrete and 30% concentration is typical, that's better than 8.6% in Pro-tekt from Dyna Gro/Superthrive.

For chelators I use my own humic acid extract that I make from leonardite. I boil it in potassium hydroxide for 12 hours and then mix and dilute it in 5:2 ratio with kelp extract. The only commercial product I still use is Biobizz fish mix at 2.5ml per 10 liters of water to add some flavour with the organic sulfurs, lipids and amino acids.

Feel free to ask any questions about the grow or setup.

Cheers!
Lookin good as usual buddy ❤️‍🔥💪
 

Rexel

Active member
53 days since flip.
IMG_638812.jpg
IMG_63841.jpg

She's taking the increased food well. Tops are getting heavy and leaning and many are already resting on the net. Found another one that had detached from the netting.

The last couple of runoff readings been around 1.5-1.55 EC out with 1.2 EC in pH 6.3 out with pH 7.0 as input.
 
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Ttystikk

Well-known member
Veteran
53 days since flip.
View attachment 19141344 View attachment 19141345
She's taking the increased food well. Tops are getting heavy and leaning and many are already resting on the net. Found another one that had detached from the netting.

The last couple of runoff readings been around 1.5-1.55 EC out with 1.2 EC in pH 6.3 out with pH 7.0 as input.
Gorgeous! Looks like you didn't have any trouble getting back into the swing of things.
 

Rexel

Active member
Looking great mate! I recognise the plants now haha

Love those long pistils, I find it an often overlooked part of the plant but the pistils can vary so much and look beautiful
Thanks bud! She's a hairy bitch lol! Many hairs means a lot of flower clusters, the hard part is keeping them white and healthy all the way as the calyx fully form and later retract.

It's the most important biomarker in my book. How well the pistils stay intact and how well the flower clusters are able to form. Most new growers starting out focus on trichomes and see early brown pistils as a positive when they should flip that coin.

They should stop focusing on trichomes and start focusing on the plants ability to keep pistils intact and flowers to form instead. It's a problem with people starting out and having access to too much information that they loose focus on the plants own language and what its trying to tell you.

Some people even think it's a good idea to measure total solids with refractometers to get a Brix reading thinking they will "dial in Calcium".They therefore think that Calcium is always needed to fix a plants problem while the plant is screaming for help getting fed excess Calcium and a never ending fluctuating Calcium to Magnesium ratio.

It's more important to get a good reading than to learn about plant health and own response. A stupid dick measuring contest for growers who are too afraid to show their unhealthy plants by their own doing. "Look at my good Brix reading" while the plant looks all nute burned and crisp.

Brix is used by commercial growers producing food crops containing high amount of carbohydrates. Cannabis produce oleroresins ie Cannabinoids and terpenes. The reading will always be wrong and useless when the measurement is for total solids, not only sugars and Cannabis is not even grown for that. There's no standardization because educated growers won't ever use it to dial in plant health.

Sorry for the rant! Last dab before bed!

All the best!
 

Rexel

Active member
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55 days since flip and third runoff reading:

0.95 EC in, 1.6 EC out, pH 7.2 in, pH 6.4 out.

- Forgot to add some pH down when I filled the reservoir today. Lowered input to pH 7.0. EC is lowering and hope she get back to 1.4-1.5 EC out tomorrow.

Everything's leaning and adding weight at this stage. She's faster this round for sure, 55 days in. It would be great if she's ready for harvest in 70 days and it looks promising on that part so far.

Cheers!
 
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Ttystikk

Well-known member
Veteran
View attachment 19143145 View attachment 19143146 View attachment 19143147 View attachment 19143148
Second runoff reading:

0.95 EC in, 1.45 EC out. pH 7.1 in pH 6.5 out.

- Lowering input pH to ~6.8. Still adding moisture keeping humidity at 58-63% and temps at ~28C/82.5F.
Input pH should be in the low six range. A lot of people drive themselves crazy trying to make the runoff fit some prescribed value; the best advice is simply to water to 10-15% runoff and let that flushing action keep things in check.
 

Rexel

Active member
Input pH should be in the low six range. A lot of people drive themselves crazy trying to make the runoff fit some prescribed value; the best advice is simply to water to 10-15% runoff and let that flushing action keep things in check.
I'm on the other fence and focus more on leachates and plant response than any set rules.

In my understanding it's all about what's going on in the root zone. When I was running many rooms with Pro-Mix(peat) we often ended having to feed upwards of pH 8.0 in late flower to stay in range and without showing pH related deficiencies.

Coco Coir is more forgiving since it has a natural pH of about 5-5.5. It however becomes more acidic as the medium breaks down.

In pure water cultures I aimed for a pH range of 5.8-6.3 depending on plant response but then I didn't have any buffers, mediums and plants own leacheates to take in to consideration.

I could probably run pH 6.5 from start to finish with very similar results running Coco Coir. I like to learn as much as possible so I've been logging and keeping track of leachates for years at this point.

People grow perfectly healthy plants without any monitoring but I'm too curious to know what's going on and where I'm falling short.
 
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Ttystikk

Well-known member
Veteran
I'm on the other fence and focus more on leachates and plant response than any set rules.

In my understanding it's all about what's going on in the root zone. When I was running many rooms with Pro-Mix(peat) we often ended having to feed upwards of pH 8.0 in late flower to stay in range and without showing pH related deficiencies.

Coco Coir is more forgiving since it has a natural pH of about 5-5.5. It however becomes more acidic as the medium breaks down.

In pure water cultures I aimed for a pH range of 5.8-6.3 depending on plant response but then I didn't have any buffers, mediums and plants own leacheates to take in to consideration.

I could probably run pH 6.5 from start to finish with very similar results running Coco Coir.
TIL

I have generally used coco only to start the plants and then gone the rest of the way with RDWC and expanded clay pebbles.

I like to recycle as much as possible.
 
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