The Search for Trip Weed

[Elmer Bud]

G`day TB

Inside the tropics the sun has lots of UV , but not as much Infra Red .
The reds and yellows are winter light outside the tropics .

More blue in your spectrum .

The word you guys are searching for is bleaching .

Too much infra red makes for more stretch ...

Thanks for sharin

EB .

 

[ThaiBliss]

blanch
/blan(t)SH/

1. make white or pale by extracting color; bleach.

bleach
/blēCH/

1.whiten by exposure to sunlight or by a chemical process.

I'm not sure what it is, blanching due to a natural senescence, or a bleaching due to environmental excessive light or heat.

The one half metal halide watts used in flowering is more than most people use, at least around here. The sodium lamp is just so much more efficient. It is much brighter than the metal halide with the same energy use. I'm going to build a bigger flowering room and I cannot decide between a plasma bulb or a LED light with strong blue spectrums. It is likely I will use the existing bulbs also, and blend many types.

Do you grow indoors? If so, what have you found to be best?

Thanks,

ThaiBliss

 

[Donn]

I don't know a thing about what's causing the present problem, but FYI my online dictionary adds, as a special case to your first definition of blanch "To whiten (a plant) by depriving it of light." (I think it used to be more popular in vegetable farming, I've seen blanched asparagus for example, but can't think of anything I'd expect to find in the grocery bins today.) To me it looks like death due to stress and the color suggests nutrient deficiency, but my indoors stuff is just a couple orchids etc. in the window.

 

[Tangwena]

Hi Dave check out the light specs on ceramic metal halide I use the clear bulbs and blue and UV are output in very high amounts as well as red in better amounts than HPS they give a clear white light.
I have used leds and HPS in the past and these bulbs are cheaper to run and run a lot cooler.
But the main benefit IMO is the way they control stretch and the resinous buds they produce. Since I started using them my plants are more compact and the buds bigger and more dense. I sourced the bulbs from EYE lighting they are a US company. The bulbs are CERA ARC EX 375w but the bulbs are clear not coated. The clear bulbs produce huge and dangerous amounts of UV and blue light compared to the coated bulbs.
I always switch them off if I am working on the plants.
Tangwena

 

[Lacocina]

Great job Thai Bliss !

Mature and plump !

 

[Elmer Bud]

G`day TB

For NLD I have used a combo MH / HPS + 6400 K Cfl .
Also I have found plants benefit from moving further from the light sources later in flower .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

 

[ThaiBliss]

G`day TB

For NLD I have used a combo MH / HPS + 6400 K Cfl .
Also I have found plants benefit from moving further from the light sources later in flower .

Thanks for sharin

EB .

Perfect. Thanks for the input.

 

[ValleyKush]

I second tang on the ceramic mh. Imo they are the best full spectrum lights on the market. Only make 600s at this point, but totaly worth it.

 

[Dave Coulier]

When was the last time the Panama Haze was fed? How close to the lights was she?

That blanching on the P.Haze occurs sporadically on my GN Thai Stick too. More so as she continues to reach her end. She hasn't been hand-fed in over two months, so very low fertility levels results in nitrogen being translocated from older growth to newer growth(buds). Major fan leaves first, secondary fan leaves, sugar leaves, and eventually it begins to affect the Calyxes, which results in yellowing, and browning, blanching IME.

Combine that with buds that are too close to the light, and you'll get chlorophyll being broken down at a more intense rate, leading to more yellow and brown pigments showing through.

Although I have noticed buds that are obscured from intense light or just further away will not develop the blanching, or it will be far slower to occur since they're not being blasted by intense light.

Low fertility + High light levels = guaranteed blanching/bleaching, imo.

Greetings,

I harvested the Panama Haze today! Two things I'd like to note right away:

1.) What a great producer! I grew Panama Haze, Punto Rojo, and Jamaican ganja all in the same little 3 foot x 3 foot cabinet, and I was able to fill my tray with Panama Haze alone. I'm guessing I might have a quarter pound of Panama Haze. Yahoo!

2.) The aromas of these Panama Haze buds are incredible. I friggn' love this stuff. I'm surprised at how much this smells like the Jamaican ganja. It has the green/sour fruit aroma that I have not smelled in a very long time, and now I have two plants with the same type of aroma. In the Jamaican, it is paired with a spicy and medicinal smell. In the Panama Haze it is paired with a sweet woodiness that also reminds me of my SAGE cut, or a Johnny Blaze that I was lucky enough to sample earlier this year. All these have a kind of asthmatic feel of power to them in my lungs. If I like the high on this Panama Haze, I'm thinking SAGE, Jamaican ganja, and Panama might be good breeding pairings. Lots of old school western hemisphere ganja feel in these.

Village Green - I am discussing my grow with 3 strains growing together, but they are all somewhat similar in type and ripening length, if you consider a spread of 18 to 24 weeks similar. LOL. I think you can do it, and Stoney did a good job of detailing out what you are up against, but I would not encourage it. I expected, hoped actually, one or two of these plants to turn out male to make it easier. I would not actually encourage making things difficult for yourself. On the other hand, I'm currently enjoying an embarrassment of riches. LOL!

Now for the weirdness of the grow. These Panama Haze buds got what I've been calling the blanching of the buds. It may have occurred to me that previous grows with blanching might be due to the flowers being too close to the lights. I did not spend a lot of worrying about it since the blanching on the Gypsy Thai, Jamaican ganja, and Punto Rojo is on the inside/older areas of the buds. If anything, I thought the close proximity of the buds to the lights might be causing the excessive fox-tailing and the never ending throwing of fresh pistils. The Panama Haze has the blanching more on the ends of the fox-tails and more buds got it at the top of the plant. This has me seriously considering that this is from too much of what spectrums or heat that these indoor lights are giving off. I am using one 400 watt high pressure sodium, and one 400 watt metal halide daylight lamp. That is A LOT of light for a 3 x3 grow space! I have been ventilating the cabinet very well, especially lately with the cooler weather we are having around here.

Dave Coulier - I'd like to hear your thoughts on light levels and the blanching on your Gypsy Thai grow.

Anyone else with thoughts on this? Is it possible that tropical NLD plants are more sensitive to excessive heat or light from these indoor lamps than WLD plants?

Time for photographs. I wish these were scratch and sniff for you poor souls who have not been able to enjoy this stuff.

My apologies for this first photo, but I want to give an indication to the extent of the blanching:
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Here is a slightly better photograph of a sampling of individual buds:
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And now for some close-up views. This first bud was sheltered from the light by the layers of buds competing for light at the top of the grow area:
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Now for a close up of a bud with some various in between levels of blanching:
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The gray area on the last two pictures look to me like a part of the bud that is just starting to blanch. It almost looks like the work of mold, and there is a lot of plant material growing in a tight space, but I've looked pretty closely, and I don't think it is.

I'll take some real close up pictures for my next post.

ThaiBliss

 

[Mustafunk]

Last update from Zamal GN Collection P1 female. Getting purple baby! Very nice mango/sour/spicy aromas. Can't wait to test this one:

Vibes.

 

[John LOQUE]

Last update from Zamal GN Collection P1 female. Getting purple baby! Very nice mango/sour/spicy aromas. Can't wait to test this one:

View Image

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Vibes.

Great ! How many weeks of flo for this one?

 

[ThaiBliss]

When was the last time the Panama Haze was fed?

About 2 weeks before harvest, but with lots of residual muck in the tank. No real pure water flush.

I was surprised to see the bleaching/blanching on that plant. I've never seen it before on something without the feathery looking buds.

Next time, I will not reduce the fertilizer at all during flowering. Those sativas like it pretty weak from the start, so I guess I should keep it constant.

How close to the lights was she?

She was about 16 inches from the lights, but the lights are on a mover.

That blanching on the P.Haze occurs sporadically on my GN Thai Stick too. More so as she continues to reach her end. She hasn't been hand-fed in over two months, so very low fertility levels results in nitrogen being translocated from older growth to newer growth(buds). Major fan leaves first, secondary fan leaves, sugar leaves, and eventually it begins to affect the Calyxes, which results in yellowing, and browning, blanching IME.

Combine that with buds that are too close to the light, and you'll get chlorophyll being broken down at a more intense rate, leading to more yellow and brown pigments showing through.

Although I have noticed buds that are obscured from intense light or just further away will not develop the blanching, or it will be far slower to occur since they're not being blasted by intense light.

Low fertility + High light levels = guaranteed blanching/bleaching, imo.

Thanks

I think I'll also try and do a better job of keeping the plants farther from the lights.


Mustafunk - I thought you might wind up harvesting earlier than I would have expected. The pictures you just post look like a plant that is done, despite the very light scattering of fresh pistils. Looks very good.


Please post a smoke report or two as it cures.

Thanks,

ThaiBliss

 

[Mustafunk]

Great ! How many weeks of flo for this one?

Roughly 16-18 weeks at 11h... probably more at 12/12h. Because the plant started flowering already at 16h as well it's hard to be really precise.

I've chopped half the plant a week ago (the plant looked nicer for my taste, a bit stiffer and stronger) and the rest this past weekend because we got a loverly sunny weather and wanted to see what happened with the aromas, actually It didn't change a lot, the trichomes are still mostly clear though. I even have a nice cola from 3 weeks ago, just to compare the terpenes and effects from all.

 

[John LOQUE]

Roughly 16-18 weeks at 11h... probably more at 12/12h. Because the plant started flowering already at 16h as well it's hard to be really precise.

I've chopped half the plant a week ago (the plant looked nicer for my taste, a bit stiffer and stronger) and the rest this past weekend because we got a loverly sunny weather and wanted to see what happened with the aromas, actually It didn't change a lot, the trichomes are still mostly clear though. I even have a nice cola from 3 weeks ago, just to compare the terpenes and effects from all.

I can't wait for the smoke report. Should be electric with mostly clear trichs

 

[bringyalungs]

Mustafunk...Oh lion, wha vibes..looking beautiful, not only is it purple but its Zamal too, excellent specimen.... is the purple common in the GN Zamal collection? bless up lion, see you stay doing your thing.... one love...always

 

[Dave Coulier]

A feeding two weeks before harvest was probably enough food to keep them fed for two days. After that they were able to deplete the soil solution of nutrients extremely quickly without needing any possible flush. I dont think many people realize just how much food these sativas can consume in a day..Its an insane amount!

As you know, I use a suction lysimeter & bluelab EC/ppm meter to record fertility levels of my plants, and within days ppm levels can go from a healthy 1500-1750 ppm to less than 300. Thats with me using Osmocote too! Its going to deplete even faster for someone using only WSF to provide nutrition. The record in my garden was TSA consuming 1100 ppm within a 24 hour period under high light, high temperature conditions.

Lower the temps, and keep the lights further away, and feed levels drop off quite a bit, but they are still hungry plants, so I definitely recommend feeding them consistently as you plan. They really dont enjoy fertility levels dropping, and then spiking upwards again with random infrequent feedings. A nice steady ppm is best for them, which is why I love the osmocote. It makes your life much easier in maintaining fertility levels. Give it a try pal, and thank me later

Not sure of the wattage, but your making the right move with upping the lights. Get yourself an infrared thermometer from home depot or lowes to really be sure just how warm those fan leaves are getting. 75-80F is ideal, imo.

Now isn't there some rule in this thread, that you can't post without a photo update of the garden? How dare you deprive of us of your wonderful garden?!? Im a victim and I demand pictures to satisfy me

P.S. Sorry for being so long-winded, but I just smoked a mixture of Shit, Thai, and Durban. And Im going in for more.

About 2 weeks before harvest, but with lots of residual muck in the tank. No real pure water flush.

I was surprised to see the bleaching/blanching on that plant. I've never seen it before on something without the feathery looking buds.

Next time, I will not reduce the fertilizer at all during flowering. Those sativas like it pretty weak from the start, so I guess I should keep it constant.



She was about 16 inches from the lights, but the lights are on a mover.



Thanks

I think I'll also try and do a better job of keeping the plants farther from the lights.


Mustafunk - I thought you might wind up harvesting earlier than I would have expected. The pictures you just post look like a plant that is done, despite the very light scattering of fresh pistils. Looks very good.


Please post a smoke report or two as it cures.

Thanks,

ThaiBliss

 

[Siever]

A feeding two weeks before harvest was probably enough food to keep them fed for two days. After that they were able to deplete the soil solution of nutrients extremely quickly without needing any possible flush. I dont think many people realize just how much food these sativas can consume in a day..Its an insane amount!

How can you know the plants consumed everything in two days?

Siever

 

[Donald Mallard]

Well if its pictures you want dave ,, lol ...

heres a pic of what id rate in the top ten i grew in the many years in the jungle,
it could well be in the top 3 for potency ,,
dam it was strong ,
theres some good dope in Papua New Guinea ,
id say it would definitely be classed as tripping weed ..

 

[ThaiBliss]

A feeding two weeks before harvest was probably enough food to keep them fed for two days. After that they were able to deplete the soil solution of nutrients extremely quickly without needing any possible flush. I dont think many people realize just how much food these sativas can consume in a day..Its an insane amount!

I think I have been underestimating the burn rate of nutrients that these strains go through. However, a bit of clarity in my answer. I fed at a constant rate UNTIL two weeks before harvest. I grow in hydroton, which requires almost constant watering. I have a tank of nutrient solution that is pumped into the substrate about 12 times per day.

For hybrids, I reduce the concentration of nutrients about halfway through flowering. I think my mistake might be that I should not do that with long ripening exotics.

As you know, I use a suction lysimeter & bluelab EC/ppm meter to record fertility levels of my plants, and within days ppm levels can go from a healthy 1500-1750 ppm to less than 300. Thats with me using Osmocote too! Its going to deplete even faster for someone using only WSF to provide nutrition. The record in my garden was TSA consuming 1100 ppm within a 24 hour period under high light, high temperature conditions.

Lower the temps, and keep the lights further away, and feed levels drop off quite a bit, but they are still hungry plants, so I definitely recommend feeding them consistently as you plan. They really dont enjoy fertility levels dropping, and then spiking upwards again with random infrequent feedings. A nice steady ppm is best for them, which is why I love the osmocote. It makes your life much easier in maintaining fertility levels. Give it a try pal, and thank me later

Not sure of the wattage, but your making the right move with upping the lights. Get yourself an infrared thermometer from home depot or lowes to really be sure just how warm those fan leaves are getting. 75-80F is ideal, imo.

Now isn't there some rule in this thread, that you can't post without a photo update of the garden? How dare you deprive of us of your wonderful garden?!? Im a victim and I demand pictures to satisfy me

P.S. Sorry for being so long-winded, but I just smoked a mixture of Shit, Thai, and Durban. And Im going in for more.

Drooling on my computer over Donald's picture!

 

[Siever]

Well if its pictures you want dave ,, lol ...

heres a pic of what id rate in the top ten i grew in the many years in the jungle,
it could well be in the top 3 for potency ,,
dam it was strong ,
theres some good dope in Papua New Guinea ,
id say it would definitely be classed as tripping weed ..

View Image

Is that true PNG Gold?