Yeah, growing up and living here my whole life, I can definetly say I have had to combat pm and botrytis my fair share.I am an outdoor breeder, but this year I turned my attention to 4 of the top ten medical strains and did not breed anything. I ran with Ghost OG Kush, White Widow, GDP, and Blue Dream. Of the 4, GDP had the worst powdery mildew problem, even on the stems. Blue Dream had the worst bud and stem rot problem, though GDP was a close second. I also had to harvest GDP early because of rot. I will likely not grow either of those strains again. The Ghost cut of OG Kush has the best rot resistance of the lot, though I had some velvet stem rot on it growing it indoors last winter (not the plant's fault, it got too humid and one fan died on me before). It is easy to clone as well. White Widow was good this year because of the really early and short bloom cycle. I had just a few spots of rot in some really large WW bud clusters. It tends to have straggly stems and a lot of inter-growth though. It is also really easy to clone.
I have a large landrace seed collection, and of those I have found the South Mexican sativas to be the most rot and fungal resistant early on. I get no dampening off of the seeds, even after being frozen for over 30 years. The indicas that I have are all susceptible to dampening off, so I have to use sterile soils and soak them in a hydrogen peroxide solution before I germinate them. I had zero powdery mildew last year here with my landrace Mexican sativas or my ET heirloom indicas that I was crossing. The pow. mildew this year appeared first on the GDP after I put them all out in the greenhouse in the late spring, and it was starting to spread to the others when I noticed it. Neem oil works very well on that though, mixed at 1:100 and sprayed liberally. All the PM was gone in a day after spraying. I have read online of some guys recommending dumping all your plants with any PM showing. No need to do that with Neem oil.
Several ways to avert rot and mildew growing outdoors in the PNW seem to be 1) select and breed strains that bloom and finish early to avoid early October wet weather; 2) or grow them in large 15 gallon pots like I do and move them into a dark place for 5 nights in a row in early August to force earlier blooming; 3) select and breed rot and milder resistant strains. I would do #3 but I do not have a rec grow license, and to do that right you would need to grow a lot of crossed seeds and select the best ones that showed the most resistance to rot and mildew for several generations. You would also have to grow in wet and unfavorable conditions and sacrifice a lot of colas to find the best plants for resistance and then clone and breed or re-clone them. If you have a rec license you are not going to make money that way, and if you did breed a rot resistant strain, why would you share it with the competition?
That was really the main point of my statement.
I wish there was more pnw breeders that breed for resistance, and when they find resistant progeny they don't just keep it for themselves
How do you know when hemp is ready to harvest?Part of the problem with breeding for early flowering is a lack of any published research on the topic. Hopefully that will change soon.
For what it's worth, the early flowering trait seems achievable via two separate pathways--one is monogenic, the other is polygenic. The monogenic route is easy to introduce, but impossible to uniformly maintain after the F1 generation. We know this pathway well and are using it to create very early finishing hybrids of our favorite ultra high CBD hemp plants. It's real, it works, and introducing it produces a host of other positive heterotic features.
The polygenic pathway...is theoretical at this point and will likely require many more generations of inbreeding to ID. We've seen it expressed in large F2 grows, which is I why I believe in it. It seems similar to gene regulation networks responsible for yield and total cannabinoid content--i.e. causally complicated (and still theoretical!), but attainable as a breeding goal through proper selection and inbreeding. Not 100% sure on this, but time--and good work by geneticists and their robots--will tell.
PSA: Batten down the hatches folks, the incoming storm is going to be hellacious. Getting sick to my stomach thinking about the damage it is about to inflict on everything we haven't cut yet.
I know a guy who used to do that, but he didn't end up making much money at it so its not his focus anymore.
How do you know when hemp is ready to harvest?
Start here http://public.health.oregon.gov/Dis...ease/MedicalMarijuanaProgram/Pages/top20.aspxAny know what it takes to sell to dispensery if you are a ommp card holder ? A to z ? I am interested in side income to cover cost of lights, fertalizer, labor . i am not looking to make it rich just supplemental even if not coving all cost . i have stoped at a few dispenserys and tgey want what i could offer but i have no idea what is involved in the proccess and cant seem to get a strait answer any where ?
Any know what it takes to sell to dispensery if you are a ommp card holder ? A to z ? I am interested in side income to cover cost of lights, fertalizer, labor . i am not looking to make it rich just supplemental even if not coving all cost . i have stoped at a few dispenserys and tgey want what i could offer but i have no idea what is involved in the proccess and cant seem to get a strait answer any where ?
Rough rundown, this is the new stuff under HB 3400, and does not apply to grandfathered grow sites with OMMP card holders which fall under the old laws:
As of April 6 (and in some cases, June 1) of 2016, the OMMP grow laws have changed. You need to register with the state as an OMMP grow site and pay the $200 registration fee per grow card (even if you have an OMMP card already) if you want to sell any OMMP weed or grow for someone else. The limit is 6 mature plants per grow card. I believe the limits for the number of immature clones under a foot tall are now unrestricted with any number of OMMP cards. Regardless of how many OMMP grow cards that you have, if you are inside city limits and in a residential zone, the grow limit is 12 mature plants (with 2 grow cards). Outside of a residential zone, the new grow limit is 48 mature plants (with 8 grow cards). OHA may inspect any grow sites with over 12 plants. Any plants grown must be out of public view (public view does not include a neighbor on private property) and restricted to public access (meaning a fenced and gated yard, or grown indoors). You must have a water right or be exempt to water your OMMP (or recreational grow license) plants now. Most properties with a permitted well are water right exempt in Oregon and you can pump 5,000 gallons a day for commercial purposes. You must also have commercial grade locks for access to any place that you grow indoors, store your cured weed, or root and grow clones.
As an OMMP grower for anyone else, or growing more than 12 plants, or selling OMMP weed or plants to an OHA processor or OHA dispensary, you must now file monthly reports with the state. They are due by the 10th of every month. They require a complete inventory of the number of plants, clones, and the amount of weed, seeds or plants, and the amounts transferred to a dispensary or processor in the previous month.
With the cost of lights, electricity and other indoor grow costs, it is unlikely that you will regain your investment growing indoors and selling low volume OMMP weed. I looked into this a while ago. The only way for me to get ahead selling OMMP weed is growing outdoors. Sunlight if free, but the weather here is so variable from year to year. Last year outdoor growing was the best in over a decade. Low rainfall through October, warm Indian summer. This year is one of the worst with early rains and cold weather, starting in September.
Also how does lab testing work as far as cost/amount it covers ?