The New & Improved [ROLS MEGATHREAD].

[Sunnyvale]

Sprouted Seed Tea v2.0

Jon Stika of Brew Your Own Magazine describes malt as "barley that has been sprouted to the point where enzymes are produced that will convert its starchy interior to sugar." After the grain has been malted, the sugar is fermented by yeast to make beer.

This is an accurate overview of an article he wrote for those who want to make their own malt and here's the Reader's Digest version:

Weigh out 2 oz. of Barley seed and remove any foreign matter by the seeds into a large jar and fill it half-way with water and agitate to wash the barley. Pour off loose husks & dirt that float to the top. Drain in a colander. Repeat until everything has been removed.

Soak the seeds in water for 8 - 10 hours. Drain the seeds and weigh after completely draining the water off. Assuming you started with 56 grams, you want to hit a minimum of 84 grams at the end of these processes.

Let the Barley rest for 8 - 10 hours and then soak for another 8 hours, drain and weigh. Repeat if necessary but that's not too unlikely.

Take a piece of cloth and you want to use something as 'raw' as possible like hemp cloth, organic cotton, linen, canvas, flax, etc. - just check with a large fabric store. If you buy a piece that is a square it probably helps or doesn't.

Wet your cloth, wring out and fold it 2 times. During the rest cycles this is where you want to let the seeds rest. You want moisture surrounding the seeds but not water.

Once you hit 84+ grams, spread your seeds again in the middle of this folded piece of fabric, place that in a brown paper bag - 55F - 65F ambient temperatures will move this along quickly.

When the shoots inside the seed have grown the length of the seed you're done. You're not growing sprouts but rather activating the enzymes and the compounds in the endosperm as described in the post above.

Take these seeds and put them in a blender and some water and get it to a puree to the extent possible. Using 56 grams to start will give enough puree to make 5 gallons of tea.

Water your plants with this diluted tea. This will give you far, far more enzymes than the straight sprouting method. One thing about beer brewers is that they live & die by enzyme levels extracted from seeds and this article is cited on several home brew forums.

This is definitely the way to use Barley and other seeds...

I am sorry to bump an older post, but would this blender method work more efficiently for our application than the "soaking" the sprouts method?

 

[ClackamasCootz]

invocation

The first commercial rooting product in the US (circa 1922) was powdered willow shoot extract for its Salicylic acid. That's what prompts posts suggesting that you go find a willow tree, climb it during spring I'm guessing to yank the shoots off - either that or toss a Weed Whacker up into the branches and then drop down on your hands & knees to scrounge around for these magical shoots.

Thing is that the SA levels in both Aloe Vera & young Coconut water are at one end of the spectrum and willow shoots are way down the list. It would be easier to come up with a list of plants which do not create this compound than a list of plants which do.

CC

 

[ClackamasCootz]

I am sorry to bump an older post, but would this blender method work more efficiently for our application than the "soaking" the sprouts method?

Yes - otherwise malt houses would use sprouts to get the converted enzymes required to make beer.

Beer is over $8 billion a year in the USA - they've got the enzyme deal down completely.

CC

 

[invocation]

Very interesting Cootz. I need to read up on that and hug a tree. I bet I have some more SA producing plant near me.

Could you clone with ground asprin??? hehe

 

[ClackamasCootz]

Only in the world of stoner science would Acetylsalicylic acid equal Salicylic acid

Funny how that doesn't work with Carbon Monoxide - I mean it's just Carbon and Oxygen right?

 

[Cann]

damn, i just took cuts a few days ago I shoulda dipped some in my 200x powder....

maybe i'll pull a few out of the rapidrooters real fast and give em a quick dip


do you folks prefer taking top branches or bottom branches for your clones? my bottom branches have been getting minimal light so the leaves don't look too hot...but if i remember right the lower branches contain hormones which assist in rooting...would i still be better off with a lush top cut instead of the scraggly lower cut? just wondering if you guys choose clones based on appearance or location on plant...or convenience, or space, or whatnot. hope that makes sense...too high to be eloquent ATM lol

 

[VerdantGreen]

bottom branches usually contain more starch and root quicker than top ones. also you are not removing a tip that is likely to become a decent sized bud.

 

[ClackamasCootz]

cann

Split the difference - take 2 cuts from each plant in the middle section. A strong cutting will result in a stronger plant in the next cycle.

Why set yourself up for problems with weak cuttings? You're a good grower - a couple of cuttings early in the veg cycle can easily be made up with some bending, tying, etc.

CC

 

[invocation]

I always look for the most healthy cuttings and I trim off all my lowers for mulch.

Side note: Seems berries and other fruits contain high amounts of SA but I'm sure willow is the best source still. Yeah Cootz, limited natural sources of high SA plants.

 

[ClackamasCootz]

invocation

Another compound that fits the same mold is Indole-3-acetic acid (IAA) which in its synthetic form is the basis of 'real world' rooting compounds at the commercial level.

Some of the stoner products contain IAA and often they'll adulterate it with their favorite pesticide, Naphthalene Acetic acid (NAA). The other 'rooting compound' (which they are not but I digress) is Indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) that you find in Dip 'n Grow.

IAA (Indole-3-acetic acid) is the most common, naturally-occurring, plant hormone of the auxin class. It's also very inexpensive to produce in a lab.

Did you ever notice the sticker on every 'rooting' product not to use it on food plants?

CC

 

[Cann]

"Split the difference - take 2 cuts from each plant in the middle section."

Funny - thats what I ended up doing lol. I almost kept some of the uglier looking lower cuts, but I desperately need to preserve these genetics so there is no room for failure. i'm sure w/ the aloe, fulvic, and silica they will be just fine


VG - how does starch factor in to the rooting equation? something to do w/ enzymes and sugar? thats immediately where my brain goes w/ starch...too much brewing lol

 

[invocation]

invocation

Did you ever notice the sticker on every 'rooting' product not to use it on food plants?

CC

I sure didn't because I was caught up on stoner science. I just got what the "stoners" told me what was the best, lol. Before I had my aerocloner (which is gone and replaced with aloe rooters) I was using Clonex.

Active Ingredients IBA

Edit: the precautionary statement takes up almost one side of the bottle which I can't find on my aloe package. My aloe has no warnings lol.

 

[Microbeman]

invocation

Another compound that fits the same mold is Indole-3-acetic acid (IAA) which in its synthetic form is the basis of 'real world' rooting compounds at the commercial level.

Some of the stoner products contain IAA and often they'll adulterate it with their favorite pesticide, Naphthalene Acetic acid (NAA). The other 'rooting compound' (which they are not but I digress) is Indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) that you find in Dip 'n Grow.

IAA (Indole-3-acetic acid) is the most common, naturally-occurring, plant hormone of the auxin class. It's also very inexpensive to produce in a lab.

Did you ever notice the sticker on every 'rooting' product not to use it on food plants?

CC

I have always used the strongest concentration of IAA (grey powder). Do you think there is something wrong with this?

 

[ClackamasCootz]

MM

Getting the pure powder in the USA is somewhat of a challenge. The powder form is the best way to go because IAA is not soluble in water and it's the ingredients used in the liquid (which varies among manufacturers) that results in the warning labels. Same deal with IBA in the Dip 'n Grow product which is alcohol based. This is the one favored by Christmas tree farms - they buy it in 55-gallon barrels.

Not a recommendation at all but Hormex is sold at the nursery supply houses and they use what they call 'Hormogenized' versions of IBA & IAA and comes in 6 different concentrations. The powders outsell their liquids about 10:1

It's all about the carrying agent - the devil is in the details as always. IAA is the premium rooting product but you seldom find it at the retail level, i.e. requires ordering from a handful of manufacturers and distributors.

CC

 

[VerdantGreen]

cann, the starches are associated with the formation of roots, the starches are convertied into sugars to provide the energy for the rooting process. if you have some iodine you can test for starch on the stems/branches.

VG

 

[Gascanastan]

Gascan

I picked-up a few ounces of Aloe Vera 200XX powder from Essentials yesterday. This is the real deal - certified by USDA & OTCO (Oregon Tilth Certified Organic).

4 oz. cost $37.79 which makes 6.25 gallons of preservative free juice - not even Citric or Ascorbic acid.

To equal 2 oz. per gallon when making 5 gallons of 'tea' you would add 1.5 grams which is 2 teaspoons (.75 gram each)

CC

Kewl..

A 5 gallon bucket of Agsil16 (20 lbs) showed up today. That should last a while eh...imagine the savings compared to the price of 1 gallon of Protekt by the time I reach the bottom of the bucket in 2 years.

Up here the average cost of 1 gallon of Protekt is around $35.00

 

[420MAN78]

I'm going to use the 200x power for my aloe in the cilantro tea mix for mites. How much of that would i use instead of aloe juice same with the silica i have the powder form?

 

[dogfishheadie]

depends on how much you plan to make up. I made the same recipe for 1 gallon of final tea mix and used my regular measurements as if I were watering...1 tbs of 200x and .07 grams of agisil

 

[dogfishheadie]

nice score gas. iirc it's 559.57 grams of Agsil 16H per gallon final volume, to get a solution with 7.8% SiO2....so with 20lbs you have roughly 16 gallons worth of protekt, which would run $560 and change (less shipping)?

mind me asking how much ya nabbed the agisil for? might make the same investment if he numbers work out...math was never my subject.

 

[dogfishheadie]

annnd final post for my lunch break.

appreciate the detailed info on the BioAg line a few pages back mr. coots, ended up pulling the trigger on the TM-7. I somehow missed the recipe / ratios for the aloe / coco water mix you use, do you mind posting that again either here or RD's recipe mega thread? thanks again pal.