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ClackamasCootz

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It wasn't until after 40 to 50 days of flowering that she started to put off any aromas, talk about taking her time until she let me smell her roses!

BJW

What percentage of opaqueness are you seeing?

What iPad version do you use? There are a couple of 'microscope' apps that you might find helpful and they're version dependent, i.e. the Retina screen is the main consideration.

CC
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
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A couple questions for the resident ganja gurus:

I went to a couple garden supply stores today looking to buy some comfrey (with no luck) and was poking around looking at their products. There were two items from Espoma that I was wondering if they were a) Organic, and b) something that you guys would use when amending a peat based soil. The first one was Potash derived from "Muriate of Potash", and the other one was Triple Phosphate.

One other item I noticed was corn gluten meal, but it was being marketed as a weed killer/lawn fertilizer. Would this be at all useful in my soil?

i would use neither of those products hugh and cant see the value of corn gluten for the container mix
~though i have heard of that but not tried it

'muriate of potash' = potassium chloride = chem

triple phosphate seems like it is 'approved for organic' IIRC but seems like a concern for being hard rock phosphate or 'soft' inappropriately made 'soft' {w/ acid} ~you dont want or need that much P anyway

greensand, kelp and/or, coot's coconut water are all good K supplies

fish bone meal or even hi P bat guano get good results and really the need for P is exaggerated by the stoner-science/myth crowd
 

HughMungus

New member
Thank you so much xmobotx! I did a little research and came to the same conclusion that you did on the Muriate of Potash. I will heed your warning on the other items as well!

I'm currently using greensand and kelp meal in my mix, so I should be good. I will also look up coot's coconut water info as well.

Thanks again. You're very helpful!
 

VerdantGreen

Genetics Facilitator
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Hey VG, any advice what qualities to look for in a Cherryjuana f2 male?

hi mr S, beyond the obvious 'cherry' terpenes, it depends on your preference really, and what you want to try and pass on. there should be phenos in there with all shades between the Cherry Bomb and herijuana. if you are pollinating to continue the line to F3s and want to keep some variation rather than steer the line towards CB or Heri then i would cut branches from more males and flower them out in a jar of water - that you will keep more genetic diversity to select from in the future.
there may be a connection between red/purple stems, petioles and pink pistils.

VG
 
M

MrSterling

VG thanks. I'm just looking for one stud to make a seed batch for this year's very small run. Looking at either Afropip's Malawi Gold or the cherryjuana f2 for the dad. Whichever doesn't get the job as dad will hopefully contribute a mom.
 

VerdantGreen

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at 14-16 weeks i would say malawi gold would be better as one of the mums rather than dad of all your crosses , if i'm getting your plans correct.

VG
 

xmobotx

ecks moe baw teeks
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oh; i m doing a sort of red stem experiment

my cab is consistently mid 70s {except heat of summer} and i did 1 TBS top dress/gallon soil of kelp meal for 2 containers {1 of which will be culled once it drops some pollen} so; 1 container vs my usual 1 tsp topdress/gallon soil
 
M

MrSterling

My plans are to get the longest running plant possible for this latitude, and to make a buttload of seeds! I think plants could run here through October and with these freak years even later. So the Malawi can probably contribute that sativa length. At the same time both sides of the cherryjuana are hugely desirable to me. The moms so far are White Jones by Connoisseur Seeds and White Romulan by OG Rascal.
 
B

BlueJayWay

BJW

What percentage of opaqueness are you seeing?

What iPad version do you use? There are a couple of 'microscope' apps that you might find helpful and they're version dependent, i.e. the Retina screen is the main consideration.

CC

OOoohhh macro camera apps? I'm all ears, I know mine is a Retina screen, not the newest ipad but right before. I've been wanting to look into a point n shoot that excels in macro.....

Maybe 20% turning opaque, very little solid opaque...it's hard to tell, I only have a 100x handheld scope and only a few trichomes fit in the viewing area LOL, the LED is bright and makes me dizzy after too long....The plant overall has very little opaqueness, but many stalks are actually starting to turn, oddly enough there are more heads turning amber/yellow while stalk and surrounding 'head' remaining clear or mostly clear, than there are opaque white stalks/heads - plenty clear and oddly the amber....

...but then again, I always feel like my 'study samples' are too small...
 
Y

YosemiteSam

A couple questions for the resident ganja gurus:

I went to a couple garden supply stores today looking to buy some comfrey (with no luck) and was poking around looking at their products. There were two items from Espoma that I was wondering if they were a) Organic, and b) something that you guys would use when amending a peat based soil. The first one was Potash derived from "Muriate of Potash", and the other one was Triple Phosphate.

One other item I noticed was corn gluten meal, but it was being marketed as a weed killer/lawn fertilizer. Would this be at all useful in my soil?

Muriate of Potash is KCl...it has a very, very, very high salt index. It is horrible to use as it will flat kill microbes...you do not want it anywhere near your grow...I promise.

Triple P is one of those deals that is an acid extraction from rock phosphate. Again...it will first kill microbes and then combine with Ca to form tri Calcium Phosphate and it will never be available again. Not a good choice. The fact of the matter is good compost/vermicompost will either have all the P you need or if it does not fish bone meal is the go to choice...or soft rock phosphate, depending on how you feel about that.

Corn gluten is sometimes used as a N fert. But a) how much corn is not GMO these days and b) between compost/vermicompost, neem meal and crustacean meal your N needs should be covered.

With something close to Cootz soil mix and even mediocre compost/vermicompost the only thing you may lack is some Ca...gypsum is the best choice because of the sulfate.
 

Gascanastan

Gone but NOT forgotten...
Veteran
When everything is right the sap pH will be 6.4 and your plant will have max immunity from disease and a big advantage against insects. Living soil or not if you lack Ca (or K during bud fill) you will not have ideal sap ph



That's what you guys keep saying....yet I'm still waiting for the studies on cannabis and the standard issue 'before/after' photos of cannabis and a realistic appllication to actually use it in my living soil garden....I'm not seeing it.

Show me...be the guy who does it w/cannabis and post your results...if it looks like it's BS or not.... the world will put it through the mill and find out.

When you gonna get your hands dirty with real living soil Sam...it will change your life and your perspective.
 

invocation

Member
Just do it ;)

dcpbcu.jpg
 
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YosemiteSam

That's what you guys keep saying....yet I'm still waiting for the studies on cannabis and the standard issue 'before/after' photos of cannabis and a realistic appllication to actually use it in my living soil garden....I'm not seeing it.

Show me...be the guy who does it w/cannabis and post your results...if it looks like it's BS or not.... the world will put it through the mill and find out.

When you gonna get your hands dirty with real living soil Sam...it will change your life and your perspective.

Building the mounds now. But, all of the ingredients have had soil tests and the minerals will be balanced close to Albrecht ratios. It is possible to do both. Plants in the soil June 1

Premeir Peat, decent compost, lava rock, some highly paramagnetic basalt (25 lbs per yard), neem, kelp, some organic soybean meal aminos, gypsum, a little bit of Mn sulfate and a tiny bit of Cu sulfate..2 yards of soil per plant. Turns out the compost has most of what I needed...except it is high in iron and slightly high in Zn. And I added some silica that I hope will become available.

Enzyme teas and some amino chelated foliars will be the feeds...possibly some PPD if sap EC falls. That is it.

If the calculations are right I should be at 69% base cation saturation of Ca, 11% Mg, 6% K (no additional needed beyond the compost...kelp is for soil building) and 12% H. P2O5 is kinda high from the compost at 988 lbs per acre. So4 should be about 250 ppm.

cec is 35 and the humus content will be at 34%...it should be very easy to keep this soil running for a long time. And if Albrecht is right about Ca:Mg I should have good O2 levels making the soil as alive as possible.

Then at the end of the year soil tests and further adjustments.

Once it is up and running I will post a pic of the sap pH...we will see what we will see. And I will show you if there is any disease or pest problems...promise.
 

ClackamasCootz

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Gascan

I picked-up a few ounces of Aloe Vera 200XX powder from Essentials yesterday. This is the real deal - certified by USDA & OTCO (Oregon Tilth Certified Organic).

4 oz. cost $37.79 which makes 6.25 gallons of preservative free juice - not even Citric or Ascorbic acid.

To equal 2 oz. per gallon when making 5 gallons of 'tea' you would add 1.5 grams which is 2 teaspoons (.75 gram each)

CC
 

invocation

Member
I've been using the powders for daily drench and foliars and the fresh aloe I grow for cloning. Until I grow more aloe (which thrive here) I will use the powder. Always always thanks for the great tips!
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
invocation

I'm going to try using it like Vonforne mentioned somewhere around here. He used the 200XX powder as a rooting powder which makes all kinds of sense.

I have to take cuttings this weekend and I intend to try this on 4 clones each from 4 strains to see what's up.

Again, it makes all kinds of sense

CC
 

invocation

Member
invocation

I'm going to try using it like Vonforne mentioned somewhere around here. He used the 200XX powder as a rooting powder which makes all kinds of sense.

I have to take cuttings this weekend and I intend to try this on 4 clones each from 4 strains to see what's up.

Again, it makes all kinds of sense

CC

That sounds excellent. I have to take some cuts too and I can try that method as well. Fresh/powder side by side (writing myself a sticky note). Will report later what happens :artist:
 
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