The New & Improved [ROLS MEGATHREAD].

[al-k-mist]

We just bought the farm, literally. It is just a valley off of the willamette valley.
Building greenhouses, and giant no-till beds. We just planted 2 dozen blueberry bushes, 14 fruit trees, 5 tea plants. We broke up the soil in a 25 X 25 area, and thats all the tiling that will bee done.( uploading pics we took today, right now...how do i get them all big in the thread)
150-200 gallon beds in one greenhouse, like 12 of them, maybe more, but 12 cannabis plants..no more moving, so they wont move either, just be ammended
I really have learned a whole lot here, and look forward to learning more, and sharing with you as our farm growz
she has started many tomato varieties, peppers, lettuce, peppermint, chamomille, fennel, dill, broccolli(3 kinds) basil...and were just getting started, no implements, recent surgery, and an infant son. Awayyy we go!
Oh, we thought the greenhouses were going to be over there, which is why that pile of peat bales is by the orchard now...gonna move it over to the greenhouse area when we mix the soil next week, got 6 yds of peat, 4 of pumice, a ton of ammendments, literally(crab meal, kelp, sulpomag, neem seed meal, basalt dust, oyster shell flour...much more


[/url] https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=40747&pictureid=1035151

 

[RanchoDeluxe]

i think for no-till you would need at least that.

but for recycled/re-amended organic soil i have done grows in containers as shallow as 5"

not by choice, but because some of my cabinets are only about 2' tall!

Cherryjuana
View Image

VG

Always impressed by what you do in such small spaces. Nice work.

 

[Durdy]

You'll look back at your grow store days with a mix of laughter and shame...

Haha this really resonates with me

A buddy of mine just recently set up his first grow apparently! (Heard about it through word of mouth)

I guess he's read "The Bible" and is ready to go!

I need to go slap some sense into him.

 

[FunTimesIndeed]

If he's anything like I was, he'll need to fuck up a few super dope chem grows before even considering the grandma like stylings of compost and dandelions LOL.

 

[ghostmade]

If he's anything like I was, he'll need to fuck up a few super dope chem grows before even considering the grandma like stylings of compost and dandelions LOL.

yea i tend to think they are wise....
and @ durdy aint it crazy u heard about ur boys grow from a third party that there just aint right.i used to be like wit mines back in the og days.anyways rant off


this here rols is now my life.lol it just make sence forget them chem hype,if anything they can keep the yeilds ill keep the good karma from doing it proper. thanx guys for sharing and teaching those of us willing to listen i to u all.!
p.s. the bold and underline thingy is stuck lol peace out yall

 

[BlueJayWay]

This bears repeating (I know I've been. On a repeating binge sorry lol):

THIS particular collective way of cannabis gardening has a boundaries as to what is acceptable within the realm of a natural system we can actually incorporate into the indoor cannabis gardening environment. From that natural/organic perspective it also has ties in the overall conscience awakening of our degrading global environment and how marketing/consumerism is propelling that

Here's my little ROLS mantra:

the garden is simply a byproduct of caring for the soil

Rancho, I also keep a seperate veg room and don't see that changing. The flower rooms are always on 12/12 - whether the current perpetual cycle has me harvesting 5 or 50 plants I'll have the same number of new vegged plants that get transplanted into the no-tills usually within hours of chopping, no down time on my no-tills at all whatsoever.

 

[Neo 420]

Here's my little ROLS mantra:

the garden is simply a byproduct of caring for the soil

Amen. It can take a while to truly understand that statement. There has to be rinse of the quasi-science that is associated with growing cannibus. Old habits die hard.

i think for no-till you would need at least that.

but for recycled/re-amended organic soil i have done grows in containers as shallow as 5"
VG

Good call VG. You are correct. I should of noted that was for no till applications.

For you no till gardeners. Remember to leave at least 2 inches from the container top to the soil line for when you top coat with ewc/compost/whatever. We don't want to disturb our fungi friends, plant exudes or that symbiotic relationships that has taken place with microbes and roots down there by having to till it in....

And you should also be using mulch or a cover crop. Some may see only the water retention benefits but I believe there is more to it with the ability to establish microbes/root relationships(cover crops) damn near at the soil line which IMO increases nutrient cycling, arthropod activity, nitrogen fixing abilities (if using certain legume's) and a slew of other things I haven't anecdotally thought of yet.

 

[Durdy]

The plants that got put into my pots that had cover crop TOOK OFF in comparison to the ones that just got transplanted into fresh soil.

 

[Swayze]

Someone shared this PDF a little while back and I just wanted to share it again as it looks to be an useful and easy addition to any garden. everything comes from this PDFhttp://idosi.org/jhsop/4%281%2912/4.pdf

Watering with Garlic

Garlic (Allium sativum): Newly produced garlic cloves
were brought. 250 g of these cloves were put in a glass
beaker containg 250 ml of tap water. The beaker was put
in a freezer for one day, after which, frozen beaker was left
to thaw. Freezing and thawing were repeated three. Water
was added to a final volume of 1 liter before filtering Final
size of the filtrate was adjusted to 1: l, before being used.
*
Data Recorded Were of:
*
A-Vegetative Growth,
Plant height (cm),
Number of leaves/plant,
Fresh weight of leaves (g/plant),
Dry weight of leaves (g /plant),
Leaf area (cm ).
*
Chemical Constituents:
*
Content of total carbohydrates (mg/100 mg FW).
N% content.
*
RESULTS AND DISCUSSION:
*
Plant Height (cm): Data shown in Table 1 indicated that, all extract types (Aloe, Garlic, Yeast and Henna) had a significant effect on increasing plant height as compared with control treatment. The tallest plants (76.91 and 79.85cm) were produced with garlic extract in the first and second seasons, respectively, while the shortest plants (48.55 and 49.95) were resulted in the control plants in the second and first seasons, respectively. Regarding method of application, it was clear that the highest values (63.39 and 65.01cm) were produced from drench application in the first and second seasons, respectively, whereas the lowest values (60.28 and 62.19) were produced with spray method in the second and first seasons, respectively.
*
Number of Leaves/Plant: Data shown in Table 2 indicated that all extract types (Aloe, Garlic, Yeast and Henna) had a significant effect on increasing number of leaves as compared with control treatment. The highest numbers of leaves (26.50 and 26.17 leaves) were observed on plants treated with garlic extract in the first and second seasons, respectively, while the lowest number of leaves (17.00 and 20.33 leaves) were resulted in the control plants in the second and first seasons, respectively. Regarding method of application, it was clear that the highest number of leaves (22.33 and 23.73 leaves) were produced from drench application in the first and second seasons, respectively, whereas the lowest number of leaves (21.00 and 21.33) were produced with spray method in the first and second seasons, respectively.
*
Fresh Weight of Leaves (G /Plant): From the data in Table 3 it can be noticed that the extract of Aloe, Garlic and Yeast had a significant effect on increasing fresh weight of leaves per plant as compared with the control treatment in the two seasons. The highest fresh weights of leaves (83.49 and 95.34 g) were produced with garlic extract in the first and second seasons, respectively, whereas the lowest fresh weight of leaves (52.18 and 49.87 g) were resulted in control treatment in the first and second seasons, respectively. Concerning to the methods of application on fresh weight of leaves/plant, it was clear that the highest values (22.33 and 23.73 g) were obtained with drench method in the first and second seasons, respectively, using spray method gave 21.00 and 21.33 g in the first and second seasons, respectively, thus the drench method better than the spray method on increasing fresh weights of leaves.
*
Dry Weight of Leaves (G/Plant): The data presented in Table 4 show that the trend of the results of dry weight of leaves similar to the trend of the results of fresh weight of leaves in the two seasons. The heaviest dry weight of leaves were found on plants treated with garlic extract (26.20 and 47.03 g/plant) were produced with garlic extract in the first and second seasons, respectively, followed with a significant difference by those treated with yeast response extract (24.85 and 37.48 g/plant in the first and second seasons, respectively).
*
The untreated control plants significantly produced the lightest dry leaves (15.79 and 20.22 g/plant, in the first and second seasons, respectively). Regarding methods of application, it was clear that the soil drench technique resulted in heavier dry leaves (22.11 and 38.21 g/plant, in the first and second seasons, respectively) compared to the foliar spray method (20.67 and 28.00 g/plant, in the first and second seasons, respectively).
The interaction between extract types and methods of application on dry weight of leaves, it was clear that applying a garlic extract as a soil drench resulted in the heaviest dry leaves (26.95 and 52.58 g/plant, in the first and second seasons, respectively) were produced with the interaction between garlic extract added as drench method. These results are in agreement with those obtained by El-Shayeb [10] stating that all concentrations of garlic extracts increased dry weights of leaves of Oenothera biennis. The best resulted from the highest concentration of garlic (75%). Heikal [24] on Thymus vulgaris indicated that foliar application of active dry yeast (20 and 40 g/l) significantly increased leaf /stem fresh weight ratio, herb fresh and dry weights.
*
Leaf Area (cm ): It is evident from the data of Table 5 that the extract type significantly affected leaf area. Leaves of plants treated with garlic extract significantly had the greatest leaf area (159.09 and 167.73 cm ), followed with significant differences by those of plants treated with yeast (154.28 and 135.91 cm ), aloe (131.93 and 128.96 cm ) or henna (120.62 and 120.70 cm ), in the first and second seasons, respectively. The lowest record belonged to the untreated control plants (100.36 and 103.58 cm in the second and first seasons, respectively). Concerning to the methods of application on leaf area, it was clear that the highest values (136.51 and 136.49 cm2) were obtained with drench method in the first and second seasons, respectively, while using spray method gave 131.30 and 124.86 cm2 in the first and second seasons, respectively.
*
Thus the drench method was better than the spray method on increasing leaf area. Regarding the interaction between the extract types and the methods of application on leaf area, it was clear that all the interaction between all extract types and spray or drench methods increased leaf area as compared with the interaction between the control treatment and spray or drench methods in the two seasons, thus the greatest leaf area belonged to plants treated with garlic extract as soil drench (161.61 and 174.79 cm2) in the first and second seasons, respectively.
*
Total Carbohydrates Percentage: Data shown in Table 6 revealed that all the natural extracts, method of application and the interaction between them had a significant effect on total carbohydrats content. Regarding the effect of using natural extracts on total carbohydrates content, it is clear that the highest total carbohydrates content 27.62 and 28.89% were obtained with garlic extract in the first and second seasons, respectively, followed by using yeast extract which gave total carbohydrates content 25.17 and 25.40% in the first and second seasons.
*
Concerning the effect of application method on total carbohydrates content, it is obvious that drench method was better than spray method for production total carbohydrates content in the two seasons, which drench method gave total carbohydrates 22.35 and 23.05% in the first and second seasons, respectively, while the spray method gave total carbohydrates content 20.59 and 20.69% in the first and second seasons, respectively. Regarding the effect of interaction between extract type and methods of application on total carbohydrates content it is clear that the highest values (28.22 and 32.60%) were obtaind with the interaction between garlic extract and drench method in the first and second seasons, respectively.
*
Nitrogen Percentage Content: Data presented in Table 7 indicated that all extract types (garlic, yeast, aloe and henna), the differant methods of application and the interaction between them had a significant effect on nitrogen content in most cases. The highest nitrogen content (1.41 and 1.55 %) were produced with using garlic extract in first and second seasons, respectively, followed by using yeast extract which gave 1.37 and 1.34 % in the first and second seasons, respectively.

Concerning to the effect of differant methods of application on nitrogn content, it is clear that the highest nitrogen content (1.11 and 1.11 %) were obtained with drench and spray methods in the second season followed by using drench method in the first season which produced nitrogen content 1.10 %. Regarding the effect of interaction between extract types and differant methods of application on nitogen content. It is obvious that the highest nitrogen content (1.63 and 1.56 %) were resulted in interaction between using yeast extract and drench method in the first season and interaction between garlic extract and spray method in the second season, respectively, followed by the interaction between garlic extract and drench method in the second season which gave nitrogen content 1.54 %.

 

[al-k-mist]

WOW. great find swayze, fer real! I am reading the abstract now, which gives more in depth info, and a nice paragraph on aloe! I highly suggest checking it out.
incedently, would the method outlined at the begining of swayzes post, ie, freezing and thawing the garlic...which is a way some folks make the alkaloids of certain cacti more readily extractable(beyond the scope of this forum), would this work on other plants as well? It is alleged to break down the cell wall by the repeated freezing and thawing(since water expands...surely makes a visual tea)
just curious

 

[high life 45]

Soaking it all up! Great thread everyone. Tagged

 

[VerdantGreen]

the experiment results certainly look encouraging but i would be a little cautious of using garlic as it is reputed to have strong anti-bacterial properties which may effect the soil biology.
just something to keep in mind if you decide to try it out.

VG

 

[Neo 420]

the experiment results certainly look encouraging but i would be a little cautious of using garlic as it is reputed to have strong anti-bacterial properties which may effect the soil biology.
just something to keep in mind if you decide to try it out.

VG

Yes.. Indeed..

http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/10594976
http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC203719/

I think it may play a role in helping control PM and other diseases (foilar spray).

 

[Durdy]

I'm curious if different plants thrive with different balances in the microcosm!

For example, garlic having anti-microbial properties , would it thrive in a fungal dominated soil?

 

[VerdantGreen]

i always grow garlic in a well composted soil which i presume is bacterially dominated.
in fact come to think of it, garlic has strong anti fungal properties too.

i imagine that whilst it is growing, it doesnt kill its own soil biology, or maybe its properties dont effect soil biology... im not sure.

garlic and alliums in general are reputed to pass on anti fungal properties when grown as companion plants.. - eg if you plant it nest to roses it is supposed to help against black-spot which is a fungal disease.
i wonder of it would help against PM as a companion plant?

having said all that garlic itself is pretty susceptible to rust, which is a fungal disease in itself. ive found a good thick mulch of wood ash will help prevent this.

VG

 

[SilverSurfer_OG]

The deal with the garlic and roses etc is you have to actually cut the foliage to release the essential oil which keeps down any fungal infections. Same deal with chives etc around a fruit tree. It must be done regularly.

Thats not to say they dont make excellent companions, they do. Roses and garlic is one i have tested and they grow amazingly well together. The garlic cloves actually grow tight up against the crown of the rosebush, inhibiting any weeds from getting right into the roots. They also spread out really quick around the rose crown so after a few seasons there are heaps!

Good tip with the ash. How thick is thick? 5cm ish?

 

[Applesauce]

I'm trying to put a soil together. I don't compost but have been dumping food on a specific spot under a tree for years. How viable would this area be to mix in as the compost slot? It wasn't tended to like a traditional compost but in my head would have the same basic process ongoing. Organic material, covered by dry oak leaves, kept moist by rain. Can someone chime in on the viability?

 

[VerdantGreen]

hey SSOG - does the essential oil just get released by the leaves or does it encourage the roots to release compounds? i read that the beneficial effect of roses and alliums as companions improves after a year or two.... but tbh i think a lot of this lore around companion planting is somewhat questionable and largely unproveable. (but at the end of the day its quite a pleasing practice)

mulch thickness - i do about an inch an then top it up from time to time.

VG

 

[SilverSurfer_OG]

Not sure if the roots do release any helpful anti-fungal properties. Going on smell i would say no but who knows whats actually happening under ground...

I think its just the icing on the cake compared to keeping say a rose bush weed free and well mulched/fed/watered in general.

Its getting cold over here at nights and early morning so i will have plenty of wood ash on hand.

I can start thinking about making a shit load of biochar too

 

[shmalphy]

I'm trying to put a soil together. I don't compost but have been dumping food on a specific spot under a tree for years. How viable would this area be to mix in as the compost slot? It wasn't tended to like a traditional compost but in my head would have the same basic process ongoing. Organic material, covered by dry oak leaves, kept moist by rain. Can someone chime in on the viability?

Sounds like compost to me, how does it look?