What's new
  • ICMag with help from Phlizon, Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest for Christmas! You can check it here. Prizes are: full spectrum led light, seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

The Mill's Pride Club

Fat Puta

Member
sumo said:
No enahs never seen that. These are the expensive white pots Home Depot sells. They are the stone color not brilliant white. I guess I thought they would look good in there and not absorb radiant heat like black. They are thick and light does not penetrate them. This is the sixth grow they are being used. No light is getting to pots right now.

I have used those pots and have had no probs.
As long as their thick u should be fine.
With the pots white = More light IMO

 
Last edited:

wickedpete66

Active member
I finished transplanting the bliue thunder into 1 gal pots, there is 2 weeks between the blue thunder and the spice, so I had to top the spice and move them to the outer part of cab to slow them up a bit
 
G

Guest

Tarbosh said:
I know someone has to rock a 1000 in one of thse puppies..... where are you mystery man?

T..If i can figure out a way to cool it( Might get 2 cool tubes) I'll run 800. got 400 now in it. ALot of heat though with 1000 pumping. If someone can give me a good idea of best way to run two 400's I'll do it.










Nevermind
 

Fat Puta

Member
Im sorry to say but u can give your plants to much light.

At 1000ws your looking at 200ws per sq foot

at 800ws your looking at 160ws per sq foot

a 600w would be your best bet IMO, thats 120ws per sq foot
 

wickedpete66

Active member
nevremind the fact that if you run a second fan to cool the second light, you'll also end having to cut bigger intakes for the extra fan as well. I have 4) 4" intakes now I couldnt picture having to cut 4 more,but a 1000 watter would be pretty cool especially if your reflector has glass and you could keep itabout a foot and half from plants
 

bostrom155

Active member
Fat Puta said:
Im sorry to say but u can give your plants to much light.

At 1000ws your looking at 200ws per sq foot

at 800ws your looking at 160ws per sq foot

a 600w would be your best bet IMO, thats 120ws per sq foot

In a C24?
It's 6.2 sq ft i think
2 x 400 would be cool. thats about 129 or so.
The quest for the grail...itn't it cool
 

wickedpete66

Active member
bostrom155 said:
In a C24?
It's 6.2 sq ft i think
2 x 400 would be cool. thats about 129 or so.
The quest for the grail...itn't it cool

the only way to put 2 400's in there would be to use the gavita bulbs. I dont know of any aircooled reflectors small enough to fit 2 in there, and with the gavita's you could just put a fan on them to cool
 

sumo

Member
I have my original 250w hps just sitting around. I've toyed with the idea of putting it along with current 400w hps side by side under gull wing reflector. I think this could work in winter where my c13 is but summer would be too hot. I should just concentrate on quality. Don't want my little misdemeanor grow to turn into a felony. Don't want to be a victim of my own success or excess. Funny how an ounce of hash is same offense as ounce of schwag. Yes I should work on quality.
 

monkeyman

Member
I'm having problems providing even light over the cab. I know its because of the location of my fan and ducting, but I don't know where else to put the fan to allow me to center the light better. Any C24 users have any suggestions, inspiration?

Here is my current cab set up, any ideas on what I can do? (The location to the right where the rockwool is will have two more rubbermaid containers tomorrow, I just ran out of water today so I have them just chilling atm.)




 

sumo

Member
Monkeyman only 40% of your light is going down. Most is hitting sides or going up. You need a reflector or hang light virtically with or without reflector. At least vertically little light will be going up.
 

monkeyman

Member
sumo said:
Monkeyman only 40% of your light is going down. Most is hitting sides or going up. You need a reflector or hang light virtically with or without reflector. At least vertically little light will be going up.

Hmm really? I didn't think with cool tubes you used reflectors.
 

Fat Puta

Member
I would say try changing how your light hangs look at pic and what u have now would be the top and what u should have is the bottom.
And a reflector is a must
 

green_grow

Active member
Veteran
i am modifying a cabinet (not c13 or c24 or whatever) for my first ever grow. inside dimensions will be 20" x 27 1/2" x 51 1/2" high . that comes out to 3.8 sq. ft of floor space and 16.3 cu.ft. overall.

i am leaning heavily towards 400w hps for the full grow but am concerned about heat. WILL i have trouble keeping this cabinet cool ???
 

monkeyman

Member
Added a reflector

Added a reflector

Alright, added a reflector. The light is distributed a lot more evenly now. That light plan was a good idea, when I have money to buy more duct I'll rework it like that.




 

sumo

Member
Good job monkeyman but ideally the reflector works better turned 90 degrees running front to back. My first grow was 250W hps with a cheap duct fan booster $20. Worked and the buds lasted till even larger harvest on 2nd grow. For those just designing cab with lower to normal ambient temps I would suggest starting simple. Maybe there is a reason my system works so well.

Looks too simple right?

Now look. Better? Those little computer fans blow that hot air to front of cab where it goes up and gets sucked out with that 4" centrifugal. When I didn't have the killer fan I used a hood with glass cover but no ducting. The hot air would float out top of hood and get sucked out. Cool fresh air is always being brought up from below. Look how close my 400w is to plants. No burning or wilting at all. My motto is start simple and complicate as needed.
 
Last edited:

sumo

Member
You can always add ducting and stuff later. Also when taking temps take them in the shade. Make shade in beginning of grow by covering thermometer with something. This gives air temperature. When shining that 400w on little seedlings I can get readings as high as 90f in the light. But when these big plants are sucking up that light my temperatures are only 70f in shade which is all there is below canopy. Meaning don't assume your box is too hot. Put some plants in there and see what they think. Adjust accordingly. The back of my cab.

External ballasts keep heat down too. Homemade carbon scrubber. Looks simple but everything put together produces more than I and wife use. Makes my friends happy too.
 

sumo

Member
Also I would start with any good soiless mix with time release ferts. What is so hard about this decision? Just do it for first grow and you will have trouble switching. Who would you rather have designing your medium, some hippy who makes his own worm castings under his bed or a degreed botonist being paid big bucks to produce a trouble free and pest free mix? Well who designed your light? This is science man not whichcraft. I just think some people complicate growing so much. It's complicated enough without any additional complications. Just as an example I had things happen on first two grows I had never read about or heard about. What you say? On first grow I had a male express himself after only two wks veg. All my plants show preflowers before 12/12 lighting. I like to veg a little more after transplant so this works out nicely but wasn't made obvious from reading and some still don't quite believe this.
And second I had some real amber trichs very early in flower cycle which is sometimes a sign of ripeness but not in this case. My point is it is too hard to design a grow for all conditions. This is why basements rock. Very stable environment.
 
Last edited:

monkeyman

Member
Sumo:
I have a C24 though which is a lot wider then a c13. Wouldn't turning it sideways limit my light rather then help the problem?
 
Top