The Lounge : Growers Round Table Discussion Thread
- Thread starter growingcrazy
- Start date
Let’s talk Woo
Let’s talk Woo
We are talking foliar only. I double dog dare you to compare https://customhydronutrients.com/urea-4600-with-low-biuret-05-max-50-pound-bag-p-581.html?cPath=1_44_390&zenid=e1ea2ad015f434449adf9fc1c0dc5b22 to
https://customhydronutrients.com/fertinitro-plus-50-pound-p-462.html?cPath=75_76_288_324&zenid=e1ea2ad015f434449adf9fc1c0dc5b22
In the soil ferti nitro wins. But 28 bucks vs 3 whatever
Foliar...test it yourownself
Let’s talk Woo
We are talking foliar only. I double dog dare you to compare https://customhydronutrients.com/urea-4600-with-low-biuret-05-max-50-pound-bag-p-581.html?cPath=1_44_390&zenid=e1ea2ad015f434449adf9fc1c0dc5b22 to
https://customhydronutrients.com/fertinitro-plus-50-pound-p-462.html?cPath=75_76_288_324&zenid=e1ea2ad015f434449adf9fc1c0dc5b22
In the soil ferti nitro wins. But 28 bucks vs 3 whatever
Foliar...test it yourownself
Do you spray those at the same ppm or do you use different rates?
Led, You do such nice work!
~315 on the ferti and 390 on the urea.
Rodehazrd
Well-known member
Always interested in how to cure the weed could you say more on how you do that. I grew up around flu cure tobacco but thats for leaves not flowers. We all knew the curing was most important come auction day. I think thats true of our crop too.I take drying very seriously. That is done in a temp, humidity and air flow controlled room.
That bus is my new marketing strategy given COs current conditions. Pick up my customers while they still have lunch money
Thanks
ledo
Chasing the Present
Pretty interesting read about a corn / nitrogen fixation from air. Rodehazard, are you speaking about fermentation in the tobacco leafs or just simple air curing? Curing is a huge piece of the puzzle for quality, that's for sure, too bad most commercial aren't seeking true quality in cannabis, not yet at least.
https://www.theatlantic.com/science/archive/2018/08/amaizeballs/567140/
thanks GC!
https://www.theatlantic.com/science/archive/2018/08/amaizeballs/567140/
thanks GC!
paradoxlost
Member
Has anyone fucked with a hemp seed compost? Something tells me that it would have insane amounts on insoluble nitrogen?
Always interested in how to cure the weed could you say more on how you do that. I grew up around flu cure tobacco but thats for leaves not flowers. We all knew the curing was most important come auction day. I think thats true of our crop too.
Thanks
So here is the plan for this grow. Your circumstances will no doubt vary.
The first thing we do is plan the crop for harvest in 3 waves basically 2 weeks apart. Jagers first, chem/og hybrids in the middle, chem 4 and narrow leaf last.
That gives me 1.5 weeks for hanging. The 3 things that control how fast drying occurs are humidity, temp and air flow/turns.
I set humidity at 60-62% and temp at 65 F. Then I tweak air flow to make that take 1.5 weeks.
Then buck into tubs in the same room for cure for another 2 wks with mucho stirring.
Then trim and bag
It may not be the absolute best but it is how I do it
That's godamn cool. Could we do that with air laying and never cutting the clones? Just keep on foliar feeding any exposed roots growing out of an air layered branch?
ledo
Chasing the Present
For your head stash how long do you jar? Do you ever ferment? Is it all just quick turns for commerce?
Surely some quality curring must be taking place somewhere vs above method? Would be curious to hear.
ledo
Chasing the Present
I though so too! I think the key is in the gelatin substance rich in who knows how many millions of different bacteria’s and which ones / combos of them are doing the fixation, but to me, normal breeding and selection with this corn varietal would be where it’s at. The fact the article says they’ve been trying to do this for decades via gmo and failed miserably, among other things is also reassuring to good ol biology and selection ...
I honestly don’t keep “headstash”. Good enough for a customer, good enough for me
What makes cannabis taste bad to me is sugar. I think the word is carmelized...tastes like shit. When you create ash and it burns black with a lot of ash you can bet high k, low ca
If you go back a few pages OO gave an excellent explanation involving starches vs ca oxalate.
From there you collect enough tissue data some timing becomes apparent. You drop k and continue with ca
That helps a lot
That’s close to what I try to do, which is 60% humidity and 55-60 temp, while hanging and while in containers.
Both numbers actually range 55-60.
Usually the cure will be closer to 2-3 months minimum, sealed in totes.
What does the mucho stirring involve?
Wow, I am very intrigued with the knowledge and gems that is throughout this thread and the previous thread before. I aspire one day to fully understand the chemistry and biology of what's going on with the plant and nutrient exchanges. I can tell I have quite the reading to do.
Growingcrazy, I hope I can get some advice from you and maybe pick your brain if you don't mind.
Before my last run, I read a few threads about formulating custom liquid fertilizers from chemical salts and I was instantly hooked. From there I went down a rabbit hole and kept trying to find information about chemical salts which led me to a web of different ideas such as CEC, how chemicals interact with eachother, balanced nutrition, etc. I bought a bunch of chemical salts and got everything I needed such as Calcium Nitrate, Magnesium Nitrate, Potassium Sulfate, MKP, micros, etc. I also found out about the program HydroBuddy and started playing around with it and messing with different numbers and formulas. I finally came up with some concrete numbers and made a 1 gallon stock of A and B. I'll get the exact numbers when I get to my other computer.
From all the threads about formulating custom fertilizers, they seemed to all be for soil but the run I was about to do, I was trying out coco coir for the first time. Not knowing too much about coco coir and how the medium worked, I believe my formula didn't give the medium and my plants adequate nutrition. I used Botanicare bagged coco and just flushed it out with water to remove the salts but I never re established the correct CEC which most likely caused issues that I had as well as the fertilizer I created.
After my last run, I did a lot more reading on the coco coir medium and I am trying to understand how it works. The previous run I was using a recirculating drip system which from what I read is a bad idea. I also didn't buffer/charge the coco before transplanting.
I remember reading either in this thread or the previous Round Discussion thread that you have experience with the coco coir medium and I notice you also use the HydroBuddy program. I'm asking for some advice on a fertilizer I can create with the chemical salts that I have and HydroBuddy for coco coir. I'm planning on doing my next run a little different and I want to try to get the most out of the coco coir medium, from what I hear its an amazing medium when the conditions are right.
I chose a cheap brand of coco coir because I wanted something where I can flush out the salts and then charge the CEC to what it will need to be with the salts that I have. Since I have all these chemical salts and in a good quantity in my disposal, I thought this would be a good idea going with a cheap brand of coco. I chose Roots Organic 5kg blocks. Instead of going recirculating drip, I'm going drain to waste. Another reason why I chose to go the chemical salt route because I won't feel like I'm throwing away too much money every time I feed.
The chemical salts that I have are
-Calcium Nitrate
-Magnesium Nitrate
-Epsom salts
-MKP
-Potassium Sulfate
-Boric Acid
-Zinc Sulfate also chelated zinc
-Manganese Sulfate also chelated manganese
-Copper sulfate also chelated copper
-Iron EDTA
-Sodium Molybdate
I'm hoping to get some advice on a fertilizer I can create with the above salts that would suit the coco coir medium. One thing that I learned after my initial run of coco was that it holds onto a lot of K and that coco coir fertilizers should be a little lower in K then typical fertilizers. The first fertilizer I made was about 180 PPM of K and I think that was part of my mistake.
Growingcrazy I really appreciate your time if you read this and please if you can offer some assistance it will be greater appreciated. When I get home to my PC with HydroBuddy I will get the exact numbers of the first formula I used. I still have to go though the previous thread, so many pages but I'm sure theres so much valuable information in there.
Thank you!
Growingcrazy, I hope I can get some advice from you and maybe pick your brain if you don't mind.
Before my last run, I read a few threads about formulating custom liquid fertilizers from chemical salts and I was instantly hooked. From there I went down a rabbit hole and kept trying to find information about chemical salts which led me to a web of different ideas such as CEC, how chemicals interact with eachother, balanced nutrition, etc. I bought a bunch of chemical salts and got everything I needed such as Calcium Nitrate, Magnesium Nitrate, Potassium Sulfate, MKP, micros, etc. I also found out about the program HydroBuddy and started playing around with it and messing with different numbers and formulas. I finally came up with some concrete numbers and made a 1 gallon stock of A and B. I'll get the exact numbers when I get to my other computer.
From all the threads about formulating custom fertilizers, they seemed to all be for soil but the run I was about to do, I was trying out coco coir for the first time. Not knowing too much about coco coir and how the medium worked, I believe my formula didn't give the medium and my plants adequate nutrition. I used Botanicare bagged coco and just flushed it out with water to remove the salts but I never re established the correct CEC which most likely caused issues that I had as well as the fertilizer I created.
After my last run, I did a lot more reading on the coco coir medium and I am trying to understand how it works. The previous run I was using a recirculating drip system which from what I read is a bad idea. I also didn't buffer/charge the coco before transplanting.
I remember reading either in this thread or the previous Round Discussion thread that you have experience with the coco coir medium and I notice you also use the HydroBuddy program. I'm asking for some advice on a fertilizer I can create with the chemical salts that I have and HydroBuddy for coco coir. I'm planning on doing my next run a little different and I want to try to get the most out of the coco coir medium, from what I hear its an amazing medium when the conditions are right.
I chose a cheap brand of coco coir because I wanted something where I can flush out the salts and then charge the CEC to what it will need to be with the salts that I have. Since I have all these chemical salts and in a good quantity in my disposal, I thought this would be a good idea going with a cheap brand of coco. I chose Roots Organic 5kg blocks. Instead of going recirculating drip, I'm going drain to waste. Another reason why I chose to go the chemical salt route because I won't feel like I'm throwing away too much money every time I feed.
The chemical salts that I have are
-Calcium Nitrate
-Magnesium Nitrate
-Epsom salts
-MKP
-Potassium Sulfate
-Boric Acid
-Zinc Sulfate also chelated zinc
-Manganese Sulfate also chelated manganese
-Copper sulfate also chelated copper
-Iron EDTA
-Sodium Molybdate
I'm hoping to get some advice on a fertilizer I can create with the above salts that would suit the coco coir medium. One thing that I learned after my initial run of coco was that it holds onto a lot of K and that coco coir fertilizers should be a little lower in K then typical fertilizers. The first fertilizer I made was about 180 PPM of K and I think that was part of my mistake.
Growingcrazy I really appreciate your time if you read this and please if you can offer some assistance it will be greater appreciated. When I get home to my PC with HydroBuddy I will get the exact numbers of the first formula I used. I still have to go though the previous thread, so many pages but I'm sure theres so much valuable information in there.
Thank you!
The first fertilizer I created had elemental values of N=100 P=60 K=180 Ca=115 Mg=75 S=40 Fe=2.5 Zn=0.5 B=0.5 Mn=0.5 Cu=0.5 and Molybdate=0.1
Using this with a coco coir medium that I never adjusted the CEC correctly plus the recirculating nutrient system was a recipe for disaster. That run showed consistent problems and I would occasionally adjust the recipe and sometimes the plants would show signs of great health but for the most part they seem to be saying something was up with their nutrition.
I learned quite a lot from that run even though it was a rough few months. I learned about the coco medium and I plan to use that knowledge from my mistakes to have a successful attempt with coco. The only trouble I believe I have is with the custom nutrition. If anyone can offer any advice thank you.
Using this with a coco coir medium that I never adjusted the CEC correctly plus the recirculating nutrient system was a recipe for disaster. That run showed consistent problems and I would occasionally adjust the recipe and sometimes the plants would show signs of great health but for the most part they seem to be saying something was up with their nutrition.
I learned quite a lot from that run even though it was a rough few months. I learned about the coco medium and I plan to use that knowledge from my mistakes to have a successful attempt with coco. The only trouble I believe I have is with the custom nutrition. If anyone can offer any advice thank you.
I am not the resident coco loco here, that would be Jidoka.
In saying that, yes I have run a lot of coco in the past. Initially on chems and then organics before going to a coco/soilless medium and then on to soil/soilless.
N100 - P100 - K120 - Ca110 - Mg50 - S60
Fe3 - Zn1.2 - Mn - 2 - Cu.6 - B.45 - Mo.15
That is where I would start and then increase the concentration until you see your desired amount of N in the plants. Getting additional P and Ca into fertilizer mixes with salts without throwing anything else off is the difficult part.
Do a source water test, adjust the mix as needed and then send a sample to a lab, then make adjustments from that. I really like using higher pH water so Pacid can be used to drop the pH and bring the P up to desired levels. As long as no elements are way off in that water, of course.
Wash the coco until you get the same ppm/ec in and out. Remove as much moisture as you can and then charge it with your nutrient mix. Add plants, drip to waste and adjust the K ratio in the mix up if you see a K deficiency but are happy with N. If you see the K def. and think more N can be used, increase the whole recipe. Work up to 4-5 feeds a day in the final container before flowering.
I can make a mix in hydrobuddy if you would like. It just may take a little time.
In saying that, yes I have run a lot of coco in the past. Initially on chems and then organics before going to a coco/soilless medium and then on to soil/soilless.
N100 - P100 - K120 - Ca110 - Mg50 - S60
Fe3 - Zn1.2 - Mn - 2 - Cu.6 - B.45 - Mo.15
That is where I would start and then increase the concentration until you see your desired amount of N in the plants. Getting additional P and Ca into fertilizer mixes with salts without throwing anything else off is the difficult part.
Do a source water test, adjust the mix as needed and then send a sample to a lab, then make adjustments from that. I really like using higher pH water so Pacid can be used to drop the pH and bring the P up to desired levels. As long as no elements are way off in that water, of course.
Wash the coco until you get the same ppm/ec in and out. Remove as much moisture as you can and then charge it with your nutrient mix. Add plants, drip to waste and adjust the K ratio in the mix up if you see a K deficiency but are happy with N. If you see the K def. and think more N can be used, increase the whole recipe. Work up to 4-5 feeds a day in the final container before flowering.
I can make a mix in hydrobuddy if you would like. It just may take a little time.
