*The K.I.S.S. Method*

[papaduc]

1.4 EC max dropped it 1.0 when the +size was added .

Nice one. Every result I've seen from it is solid. It fits the idea that a lot of phosphate is wasted when you use high P foods at high concentrations.

If people can use V+B at 1.0ec and maxibloom is used at 1.8 (I think that's what it works out?) that must go some way to offsetting the price difference.

I asked earlier I think, but I think if you cut the maxigrow and maxibloom 50/50 you get a ratio somewhere in between the two brands. I wonder if anyone has ever done that. It's a good bloom ratio and obviously having the two separate gives you the option to tweak it.

 

[RetroGrow]

And it's a being made by someone using Bloombastic.... At $231 per Liter.

You mean the Bloombastic that you've never tried, but still manage to troll that thread too?
Unfortunately, your lies don't fly: It's $130 on Ebay, but you already knew that. Hey, why tell the truth when you can ignore it and make crap up? Bloombastic is exceptionally cheap, since it's highly concentrated, and only tiny amounts are used, and only very briefly.
But $20 a pound for fertilizer is not expensive.
That's funny!

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

just ordered 25lbs each of jacks 5-12-26 and cal/nit. 167 bucks delivered. $3.34 pound i use approx 4.8 gr per gal. combined.
after i ordered i found solution grade calnit for 25 bucks at the feed store. they also sell monpotasium phosphate for pennies on the benjamin of moab
talk about cheap. these nute companies are just selling ratios andfor a hefty price

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

now im really in the wrong thread. sorry. ill go find the jacks thread.

 

[papaduc]

You mean the Bloombastic that you've never tried

Yep. And also like the V+B you've never tried.

Unfortunately, your lies don't fly: It's $130 on Ebay

It was £35 for 250ml in the UK when I googled it.
At half the price it would be a fucking scam.

If they can afford to reduce it to $130, that must mean it was always worth even less than $130... Which would mean they were putting a $120 markup minimum on every 1L bottle of nutes - and that's playing devil's advocate and assuming anything in the bottle could be worth $120

So, now they're making $10 per L, and when you factor in overheads and cost of shipping, that would mean they're now making a loss on every one....

Or is it more likely that what's in that bottle is and always was worth below, and I mean way below, $100?

And if that's the case, doesn't that give you any indication, not even the slightest suspicion as to how very cheap the cost of production and how huge the markup might just be?

They're almost telling you they're ripping you off and you still won't listen.

Bloombastic is exceptionally cheap, since it's highly concentrated, and only tiny amounts are used, and only very briefly.

So, by that logic, if they sold camel piss for $1000 per liter, but you only used 1ml per 20L for one week, it would be a bargain?



You're a funny guy.

But $20 a pound for fertilizer is not expensive.
That's funny!

Not when you're willing to spend $135 on diluted.

*Whether things are expensive is relative. If you can justify spending $135 on a liter of diluted potassium phosphate and seaweed, then you have completely invalidated your argument. It's as simple as that.

But if you had any fundamental principles that govern what you do - like the fella who started this thread whose idea it was to steer people away from hydro nute bullshit - then you wouldn't have bought the bloombastic in the first place and you wouldn't be on one thread attacking me for telling people it's over priced, then in here telling people V+B was snake oil and you'd be well within your rights making this point. As it is, the fact you pay $135 for a basic PK booster with seaweed makes a mockery of anything else you've got to say. Shout at me as much as you want, but you can't change that.

 

[Morcheeba*]

My beautiful and most cherished thread, on the brink of 250,000 views. Keep up the good work everyone! Remember it's not about the NPK, it's a way of life!
Keep it simple, no matter what you do.
Peace and Prosperity
-1I-

 

[superjet]

apologies to everybody but the 2 or 3 V&B sales persons trolling this thread. if you want to keep your head in the sand and not learn anything about how and why to feed your plants then keep buying and using the V&B all the way through veg and bloom hoping you get it "done right" hahaha. using V&B is like playing darts, you miss the bullseye more than you hit it! these guys can't get the nitrogen out at the end without starving the shit out of their plants, their own pics prove this. for me (and that don't mean shit!) the most effective and simple base nute is the maxigrow into the first or second week of flower and then the maxibloom. and with GH you can supplement with endless possibilities (to perfection), if you want to. don't be afraid to learn how to feed your plants what they want when they want it. these guys working for V&B (the ones with the great photograghy skills) have been using the stuff for the last 5 years, that's a long time to not (want to?) learn anything.

 

[rives]

Gee, I guess that I should have mentioned in my previous post that if your water is pure enough that you need to supplement MB with CalMag to get the same level of Ca that is already in V+B, then the MB/CalMag solution will not only cost the same as V+B, but it will wind up with MORE nitrogen in it than V+B. It's also pretty interesting that the above comment comes from someone who apparently has precipitation problems with MB after 5 days.

I think that, as always, it comes down to your water. If you have "normal" levels of Ca & Mg, change out your reservoir frequently, and don't need to add other products to the mix to get great results, then MB should probably be your choice.

On the other hand, if you are still having Ca deficiencies, if you need long-term stability of your nutrient mix, if you find yourself adding a bunch of supplements to compensate for things that aren't included in it, and if you simply aren't available to continually chase the latest problem with your plant's nutrients, then you might want to try V+B.

And incidentally, I don't sell anything for anybody.

 

[superjet]

rives, I'm NOT trying to be a shithead and your buds do look very nice. to be honest I don't think there is a "one part nute" that doesn't sacrifice something either in veg or bloom. that is why I use both the maxigrow and the bloom (not together) as a base. I use ro water and need very little as far as calmag goes. and trust me (water chemistry is my thing) and if you use/put everything that should be in your mix, things are and will fall out of solution sooner than a couple weeks. I have issues (bipolar) and shouldn't get butthurt when you guys come a trolling over here when there is a thread specifically dedicated to V&B that's all.

 

[superjet]

side note: just the temp of your water can cause calcium to precipitate out of solution. that is why I tell everybody don't use hot water when you mix up your maxibloom!

 

[rives]

Agreed, any one part nutrient is a compromise.

Regarding the precipitation, all I can tell you is my results over a period of approaching 3 years now, with 3 dual-reservoir systems going, I don't get any noticeable levels of precip. I also don't use hot water when mixing, though.

And no, I'm not trolling. I'm here for the same reason that I'm in most places on this site - to help out. IF MB works for someone, great. However, if it doesn't work in their water without supplements, they should know that there are other options available which still follow the KISS principle as espoused by the OP. Adding supplements complicates life and as I pointed out up above, can get expensive in a hurry.

And incidentally, I think that there has been far more trolling on the V+B thread by naysayers than here, by a substantial margin.

 

[sanjuan]

Anyone who has spent any time here knows how ridiculous it would be to put rives in the category of shill or troll. I believe I have seen shilling for V+B, though, so the resulting trolling shouldn't be too suprising.

Seeing rives using V+B, I bought a pound of Soft in the fall of 2012. It was "factory" sealed but caked up, I threw it away. I read they had a bad batch so I bought another pound in the spring of 2013. This still cakes but is usable. It left more fines and grit in my reservoir than Maxibloom or Jack's but I was adding cold water at the time--I now use room temperature tap water when mixing.

What I really disliked about V+B is the sugar that causes brown slime mold in my reservoir. H2O2 killed that but the oxygenated water encouraged white mold which clogged my Blumats. I now add bleach at the rate of 0.3ml per gallon of nutrient solution and I only use the hydrogen peroxide for cleaning purposes.

Then I went to Maxibloom, that stuff works fine for me and my tap water. The next round, I started with MaxiGro and transitioned to Maxibloom. That is a very good KISS method, IMO.

I'm using Jack's now but I do not consider it KISS.

 

[rives]

Thanks, sanjuan.

I'm sorry to have misled you though. For whatever reason, V+B seems to be finicky about the base water that it is mixed with. I know that Dan was in a location where it simply didn't work for him, but it did at the spot where he was before and the one that he moved to later.

V+B is so hygroscopic that I need to close off the bag after I measure out what I need even if I'm going to be back into it in a couple of minutes for the next batch, and the measuring spoon will cake up repeatedly just from the ambient humidity even though I live in an area that normally has a pretty low rh. It's just something that I've learned to deal with, but I see where it could be a pain in the ass if you lived somewhere with high humidity.

Are you seeing any problems with the bleach or the peroxide and your Blumats? I know that there was someone in the Blumat thread that damaged the soft parts of the spikes by cleaning them with bleach, but perhaps it's not a problem with lower concentration levels.

 

[dansbuds]

Thanks, sanjuan.

I'm sorry to have misled you though. For whatever reason, V+B seems to be finicky about the base water that it is mixed with. I know that Dan was in a location where it simply didn't work for him, but it did at the spot where he was before and the one that he moved to later.

V+B is so hygroscopic that I need to close off the bag after I measure out what I need even if I'm going to be back into it in a couple of minutes for the next batch, and the measuring spoon will cake up repeatedly just from the ambient humidity even though I live in an area that normally has a pretty low rh. It's just something that I've learned to deal with, but I see where it could be a pain in the ass if you lived somewhere with high humidity.

Are you seeing any problems with the bleach or the peroxide and your Blumats? I know that there was someone in the Blumat thread that damaged the soft parts of the spikes by cleaning them with bleach, but perhaps it's not a problem with lower concentration levels.

Correct Sir !!! i found that I need to use 0 water RO/DI for the V&B RO formula to mix correctly & stay that way . with tap & even straight RO i would get fallout in the rez & defs in my plants . but thats about the only negative thing i can say about it . & yeah it'll clump up quick like unless you keep it in a sealed container , i keep mine in a snap lock tupperware container . so yeah ..... it has its downsides .

The MB i always had problems getting it to completely dissolve (like alot of people ) & other than that it worked great for me . but just not as good as the V&B .

 

[sanjuan]

[. . .]
Are you seeing any problems with the bleach or the peroxide and your Blumats? I know that there was someone in the Blumat thread that damaged the soft parts of the spikes by cleaning them with bleach, but perhaps it's not a problem with lower concentration levels.

The white, whispy mold got worse as I kept adding more H2O2; I forget how much I was adding before I figured things out. I remember that concern in the Blumat thread about oxidizers but I haven't had any problems so far. The rubber washer of the "through hull" fitting looks good and the seals of my Blumat shutoff valves still work and feel smooth.

I don't worry about making things sterile outside of the reservoir. I just rinse off my Blumats in tap water after each run and the 8-3-8mm tees and 3mm lines are replaced.

Oh, and further offtopic . . . I kept bringing in fresh mold from using inferior pH probe storage solution. Besides being diluted (nowhere near 3 molar) compared to Hanna, the preservative was ineffective in my bottle of Genesis brand solution. A white nebula forms in a shot glass of Genesis after a few days.

 

[bmp420gti]

Figured I would bump this, if anyone wants to know it seems the cookies really doesnt like the maxibloom, even at 2grams it starts to curl leaves, on the other hand my candyland plants still love it, one is growing way way bigger now than the other two, i probably should have topped it. Heres some pics:

 

[superjet]

here's my sfv ogk @ exactly 49 days (yesterday) from flip using maxigrow through the first week of flower then going to the maxibloom to finish. gh has everything and anything you might want to supplement with, including bennies. pulling 48-50 zips (dried!) from two 600 watters every sixty days is no bullshit!

 

[xxxstr8edgexxx]

[URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=55560&pictureid=1296938&thumb=1]View Image[/URL] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=55560&pictureid=1296949&thumb=1]View Image[/URL] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=55560&pictureid=1296962&thumb=1]View Image[/URL] [URL=https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=55560&pictureid=1296963&thumb=1]View Image[/URL] pulling 48-50 zips (dried!) from two 600 watters every sixty days is no bullshit!

no kidding. i am almost in disbelief but ive heard some crazy numbers recently from super dialed enviroments. one dude was pulling 3.75 per 1k here locally.

 

[superjet]

no kidding. i am almost in disbelief but ive heard some crazy numbers recently from super dialed enviroments. one dude was pulling 3.75 per 1k here locally.

actually I'm pulling just over a gram per watt. with six plants I'm getting at or just above eight zips per plant. no topping, vegging to two foot just before going into flower, ending up at around six foot with the five gallon pot. I do a two part harvest giving the bottom third an additional ten days to two weeks before chopping it. what's funny is with the extra time the bottom gets it almost rivals what I get from the top two thirds. but yeah, the least I've pulled from this plant x6 is 46 and 3/4 ozs.

 

[paperchaser825]

pulling 48-50 zips (dried!) from two 600 watters every sixty days is no bullshit!

Can confirm, smoking approximately one ounce of OG per day is pretty gnarly.