Just cause I am not working on myself and still a dick...a dissenting view on brix. Too high in the leaf or petiole is just as bad as too low. Your plant has plenty of energy in the sap so why isn't it converting it into plant? Time to up the enzyme content if you were to ask me
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Pono my bro has been ordering tirchagama (sp?) Wasps for his place.the lay their eggs in other eggs. Gets rid of bud worms.
I order swirskiis mites every month and have not seen russets or broads since. Know lots of people who have broads and russets and they just can't seem to order swirskiis for some reason. $100 bucks a month and I never worry about infection.
I order swirskiis mites every month and have not seen russets or broads since. Know lots of people who have broads and russets and they just can't seem to order swirskiis for some reason. $100 bucks a month and I never worry about infection.
50YardLine
Member
I agree with upping the enzyme content, but what do you think is too high of a brix?
Rosa Luxemburg
Member
Would like to see BYF back here again as well!
Changed attitude is good- I find it a constant process, never finished working on the moment......
Let's be careful what we wish for. Bulldog, wb.
I don't know what brix is too high. I get the concept from hortinova. FE posted something like nutrient explanations for tomato. They measute sap ec (ions) and actual sugar...the two things that make brix. They say if ec is high you burn leaves...so that is easy to see. If sugar is too high they say the plant "is not working".
But like I said what number that happens at...I don't know
But like I said what number that happens at...I don't know
not sure how similar grape production is, but we usually wait until the brix is up in the 22-25 range for harvest. its a narrow window, because too high isn't good either.
when i was brix testing last year my sicker plants were real low like 9-12 range when they were yellowing, and around 16-20 when they were lush green.
when i was brix testing last year my sicker plants were real low like 9-12 range when they were yellowing, and around 16-20 when they were lush green.
50YardLine
Member
I find it hard to believe that too high a brix is possible. First of all, brix is mobile in the plant. You can have a brix of 18 at noon, and at 5pm your brix could be 9. I have tested as high as 24 (or 26 can't remember) and the biggest thing I found was Sap was extremely hard to harvest from my leaves. That was a very healthy plant at that point. I guess I have to check out what hortinova says about it.
@Yes4prop215 - Do you harvest your grapes at noon? When brix can be the highest? My vines are putting out some great clusters this year. Really happy how some of them turned out. They were neglected before I bought the property.
@Yes4prop215 - Do you harvest your grapes at noon? When brix can be the highest? My vines are putting out some great clusters this year. Really happy how some of them turned out. They were neglected before I bought the property.
50YardLine
Member
Cool beans. I will try that. I am always experimenting on the plants that don't make the cut. Over feed certain elements to see what excess looks like, ext.
Maybe I should have rephrase my statement. I find it hard to believe under normal growing conditions, with fertilizers your familiar with, to have too high of a brix. However, I was reading up about it and there seems to be some science behind it.
Where the science really makes sense is in grapes. If the brix is too high, then your alcohol content will be higher because of the extra fermentation. So testing grapes for brix is common practice in the wine industry.
However I am still trying to find anything about too high of a brix in cannabis.
Maybe I should have rephrase my statement. I find it hard to believe under normal growing conditions, with fertilizers your familiar with, to have too high of a brix. However, I was reading up about it and there seems to be some science behind it.
Where the science really makes sense is in grapes. If the brix is too high, then your alcohol content will be higher because of the extra fermentation. So testing grapes for brix is common practice in the wine industry.
However I am still trying to find anything about too high of a brix in cannabis.
there may well be cite-able research ongoing ~one day we will have better references than anecdotal or advertisement.
meanwhile, this thread represents that same subject of research & it's easy to make that research your own testing the methods here ~make your own empirical data
meanwhile, this thread represents that same subject of research & it's easy to make that research your own testing the methods here ~make your own empirical data
Here is a more realistic scenario...I just took it to the extreme to help people imagine.
Lets say 55% bcs of Ca and 10 K. That is not unrealistic at all given the 33% compost a lot of p eople run. The K is far more sap mobile than Ca. That will give you higher brix with far more susceptibility to PM and botrytis.
Brix is one number...it is not fool proof
Lets say 55% bcs of Ca and 10 K. That is not unrealistic at all given the 33% compost a lot of p eople run. The K is far more sap mobile than Ca. That will give you higher brix with far more susceptibility to PM and botrytis.
Brix is one number...it is not fool proof
I'll take the cats, the rain and the wind, just don't give me sheriff visits.
Spinosad early in flower before the cats get into the buds - Pure Protein Dry has BT; however BT's short half-life is what makes it less effective than Spinosad. Would rather 2-3 strategic applications per season of Spinosad then weekly applications of BT.
Spinosad early in flower before the cats get into the buds - Pure Protein Dry has BT; however BT's short half-life is what makes it less effective than Spinosad. Would rather 2-3 strategic applications per season of Spinosad then weekly applications of BT.
I too found spinosad a much better and effective product over the bt,
less spraying and better results ,, no caterpillars at all ,, only takes a few applications once they are flowering ...
nice plants btw trisierra ...
less spraying and better results ,, no caterpillars at all ,, only takes a few applications once they are flowering ...
nice plants btw trisierra ...
I rotated both bt, and spinosad on a 7 day schedule and still got em. I knew they were coming so was prepared for the battle. No where near as bad this year though. Next year will definately have bug zappers spread around the property. I just ordered a couple they're only 35 bucks, wish I'd of done that a month ago argh.
Word. I've found at higher elevation gardens (4000ft) there is little to no cat pressure, or at least at that particular garden; but dropping down to 2500ft, within a 10 mile radius of the 4000ft garden, there was significant cat activity. Same plant health. Same plant size.
Why didn't you do holes or trenches? I'd be out of containers and in the ground quick like if I had native soil alongside the river to work with. Doesn't get much better.
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50YardLine
Member
Don't forget OG bio war for cats. It also helps with mites and mildew. Great product.
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