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The growing large plants, outdoors, thread...

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Madjag

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Secret Weapon #1 - the absolute best book on creating incredible soil:
The Ideal Soil

Secret Weapon 2: the ideal balanced, comprehensive soil mineral supplement, with 2 unique Pro-biotic Fungi and Bacteria packages: Agricola's Best
All of the ingredients in Agricola's Best Soil Mineral Supplement are allowed by USDA NOP Final Rule for Organic crop production


Here's Chapter 1, the author's freebie for understanding why organic, biodynamic, Rodale, permaculture, and rock dust agro all have great intentions, but fall short of the holistic picture:
http://www.soilminerals.com/TIS_Ch1.htm
 

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
I found more bud worms today. Fucking awful this late into bloom. My hands were a sticky mess once I finished checking all the buds. I'm getting a bottle of spinosad immediately.
We cause as much damage as the caterpillar does. I did the same.

I had sprayed late with Thurgenesis. I didnt like the way it smelled or looked. I also didnt realise it breaks down so fast in the sun. I read a couple days. I should have resprayed but was put off by the odor. The worms came back in days with a venjance.

I was able to locate spinosad at one shop. Everyone else was sold out. The concentrate was odorless and colorless. I think it lasts 4 weeks in the sun. It did the trick.

Problem with bigger buds, is the worms are inside. They have to eat the spinosad. How you going to get it to them inside the bud? I surely wouldnt soak a bud with Thuricide. The buds would probably taste like that stinky stuff.

I did spray spinosad on my buds, and it worked. I hit them good, and it didnt damage the hairs or anything. I smoked an early sample a few days later and it tasted just fine. No ill effects
 
S

stickyicky009






god bless this mess :ying: ... and give us all good health , good f.a.m & good friends :friends: ... a big crop would be nice too :biggrin:
 

Greeseyder

Member
THANKS guy for replies!! I picked up some Serenade but first I'm going to raise the K :) & of course keep trimming off any rot...it's not too out of control...to the point of early chop...they're @ 70%+ milky trichs...I'm trying to hold out 'cause these are the biggest/best plants I've ever grown!

Thanks again,
G
 

Calimed

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Was checking out a friends garden that is running the same gear as me and his plants are a good 3 weeks ahead of mine! The plants never experienced any serious stress but could use a lot more light and spacing next year. Could being at 3800 ft. Vs 1000 ft. elevation have anything to do with it?
 

Dr. Purpur

Custom Haze crosses
Veteran
Was checking out a friends garden that is running the same gear as me and his plants are a good 3 weeks ahead of mine! The plants never experienced any serious stress but could use a lot more light and spacing next year. Could being at 3800 ft. Vs 1000 ft. elevation have anything to do with it?
I was told decades ago by someone who lived at 2500ft that I could expect fatter buds closer to sea level, and elongated thinner buds at high elevations off the same plant. I dont know that his were any later then mine though.
 
Bay 11 seed plant

picture.php
 

Madjag

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Was checking out a friends garden that is running the same gear as me and his plants are a good 3 weeks ahead of mine! The plants never experienced any serious stress but could use a lot more light and spacing next year. Could being at 3800 ft. Vs 1000 ft. elevation have anything to do with it?
***************************************************

My 2 cents: it's the light.

Grow some test plants in partial shade (3-4 direct hours of sun exposure) as an experiment and I think you'll find that identical seed stock, etc will take longer to flower fully. Limiting direct light even further to complete indirect light, full shade, will add even more time.

They'll sssssstretch though!
 

OrganicBuds

Active member
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imo it is a K deficiency. Check the sap pH, bet you it is below 6.4. Check the brix on those bottom leaves vs top leaves...bet you there is more than a 10% difference...top being higher brix and K being more sap mobile than any other element, plus being a base cation.

Fertigate KSil at 0.7 grams per gallon and chuck some fulvic in with it. It won't fix what is there but it will keep it from getting worse.

If you let it go sap pH will continue to drop and you will run into mold issues.

All awesome advice, but I have a question. Why not use kelp? Kelp has many added benefits other than just supplying K. Could kelp be a good alternative to Ksil, or does Ksil bring something to the table I am missing? Maybe build up cell walls?
 
All awesome advice, but I have a question. Why not use kelp? Kelp has many added benefits other than just supplying K. Could kelp be a good alternative to Ksil, or does Ksil bring something to the table I am missing? Maybe build up cell walls?

SiO2 .....7/10 of a gram will give you 46ppm Si

EDDDDDDDDDIT: 7/10 gram will give u 49 ppm k and 98ppm si
 
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milkyjoe

Senior Member
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yep that...the silica has some mold fighting properties of its own.

I tend to avoid kelp latte in flower...not 100% sure but fear the cytokinins delay the plant finishing.
 
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