if you don't break branches ya aint doin it right!
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GoldCountryGuy
Member
Nice pics milkyjoe, the way I see it, those are the healthiest plants pictured in this thread~
Great shots all around big plants peeps.
Great shots all around big plants peeps.
bottomland
Member
I have been using 1/2 of a coat hanger (old style, wire) push them in the ground ( on a ankle) n tie off to them, never had one pull out, the only time I have broken a branch, is when I pulled to hard or pulled on the plant too late in the season. ( tie your plant's down early, less trouble)
Coat hangers will work on smaller plants. They average 2.15mm.
I just measured a few. Its a low carbon soft steel.
I use a high carbon spring steel, greater then 5mm. They are 2.5' to 5' in length. You can bring down a big plant, and spread it right out.
That was Headband that broke. It has more brittle branches
GoldCountryGuy
Member
Sorry that I don't understand, but, what is the purpose. I understand what you are doing, but why? If i remember correctly height wasn't an issue for you? Just curious, always a pleasure....
bottomland
Member
I cut a coat hanger in half,(that give me two 7 or 8" staples) witch I push one of them into the ground n tie my branch or stalk off to it with a solf cord. I do it when they r young n flexable, they only need to be held down for a short time n they learn or should I say train them self to grow along the ground. 3 years back I grew a 2+lber that never got over 4 foot high but it covered a 12x12' area. I grow 12 plants (tied down) it's a lot of work but the bud pay off is well worth it.
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Carlos Danger
Gcg, sounds and looks from the pics like he's trying to keep them under 6' and below that white tarp.
Heigth is an issue in one 2 of the gardens. Im raising the fence about 4" too. If the rods are not deep enough, the plant will pull them out overnight, and pop back up.
You also get more sun to the buds. Instead of side buds down below, they become larger tops. (We used to call buds "Flowertops" in the early 70s)
hey yall got a friend whos having issues that are spreading and need some input from the masters. I have my suspects but I don't wanna taint the jury. 1st pic the girl show a slight yellow on one side then within a week looks like this. the others are getting the rusty crust on the leaf edges then spreading to the whole plant quick and the flower size is definitely affected.
Burn em all before it spreads. Cut losses now quarantine by culling.
*If its the broad mites that is...
*If its the broad mites that is...
the 3rd pic kind of looks like broad mite damage with the wispy deformed fan leaves, but the 1st, 2nd and 4th look like some kind of defiency or burn. we are having a few issues as well with several plants yellowing early, a "growmaster" mentioned that my plants looked like they were deficient in Iron and possibly Ca and MG as well so i adjusted my foliar and feeding to fix those, we will see if it does anything.
i scoped all of my sick looking plants and found zero signs of broad or russet mites.
i scoped all of my sick looking plants and found zero signs of broad or russet mites.
Doesn't look like BM or RM to me. They love to eat the pistils, and those plants have their pistils. The leaves would be way more twisted if it was mites, imo. I had an all out infestation indoors. 2 things I know of kill them. Forbid 4F and heat above 100F.
Maybe you outdoor guys could put a tent over your plants, and cook the mites for a few hours. Might be too late in the season for that... Just a thought.
Maybe you outdoor guys could put a tent over your plants, and cook the mites for a few hours. Might be too late in the season for that... Just a thought.
imo it is a K deficiency. Check the sap pH, bet you it is below 6.4. Check the brix on those bottom leaves vs top leaves...bet you there is more than a 10% difference...top being higher brix and K being more sap mobile than any other element, plus being a base cation.
Fertigate KSil at 0.7 grams per gallon and chuck some fulvic in with it. It won't fix what is there but it will keep it from getting worse.
If you let it go sap pH will continue to drop and you will run into mold issues.
Fertigate KSil at 0.7 grams per gallon and chuck some fulvic in with it. It won't fix what is there but it will keep it from getting worse.
If you let it go sap pH will continue to drop and you will run into mold issues.
furrywall11
Member
looks like maybe he had a deficiency and then he overcorrected and burned his plants and now they're locked out.....or..it looks like broadmites because of the same symptoms and also the leaves look like they're starting to canoe and turn in weird directions... hard to tell. my two cents
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Carlos Danger
I found 3 budworms today. Only noticed because a bud's entire pistil growth had gone brown. I dug in and found a bastard chewing away. Gave the girl a neem+ksil+limonene (lemongrass) foliar as soon as the plant went into the shade. Not happy spraying this far into flower, directly on flowers. The branches were all bending something fierce, but I expect she'll have a better structure in the morning for it 
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I had one plant hit real hard by worms this year. I had to spray it late. I hate doing that, but I used Spinosad, and that stuff smells about like water. It took out all the worms. I picked about fifty worms off that plant. All gone now
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Carlos Danger
I'll resort to spinosad if need be. Is searched high and low and only found three.
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