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nice front yard man! digggin that one plant that has logs for the sides of the pot..
C
Carlos Danger
My cherijuana is way into flower, and it seems the seeding with LouDog's CJxSB took! The big White Romulan is still very early into flower. I was a bit worried about reveg but I think she's just taking her time. This has been a strange cool, wet summer.
THIS WE ALL WANNA SEE IM SHURE!!!!!!
THIS WE ALL WANNA SEE IM SHURE!!!!!!
COME ON WITH IT,if aloud?
Lg....frigin waiting!!!
THIS WE ALL WANNA SEE IM SHURE!!!!!!
COME ON WITH IT,if aloud?
Lg....frigin waiting!!!
I said the same thing when I saw it. That rough cut timber is nice. Im going to make all my veggie gardens like that. Mounds for the meds.
Nice garden Brah.
i will definitely get some pictures... the longer it takes the bigger they will be anyway
i copied this from my thread, wasn't getting any replies
in this past week i've been having some yellowing issues with some of our plants.... Blue Dream, Cheesequake and GSC clones. I think the intense sunlight/heat and low humidity is fucking them up. The lower fan leaves are yellowing and dying, new growth is slow, and a couple even appear to be starting to flower due to stress
My neighbors are using shade cloth over their entire garden and they are having some issues too, so my main thought is the air is too hot and humidity is too low.... The past few days we have been spraying the plants with water 2-3x per day to see if it makes a difference, but this will not be an option in late flower.
can't get pictures right now, posting from my phone on the hill, but i wanted to get some input from the wonderful ppl on icmag. anybody have any issues or advice relating to growing in a hot, dry climate? we are 3000ft elevation near Yosemite so the sunlight is intense.
in this past week i've been having some yellowing issues with some of our plants.... Blue Dream, Cheesequake and GSC clones. I think the intense sunlight/heat and low humidity is fucking them up. The lower fan leaves are yellowing and dying, new growth is slow, and a couple even appear to be starting to flower due to stress
My neighbors are using shade cloth over their entire garden and they are having some issues too, so my main thought is the air is too hot and humidity is too low.... The past few days we have been spraying the plants with water 2-3x per day to see if it makes a difference, but this will not be an option in late flower.
can't get pictures right now, posting from my phone on the hill, but i wanted to get some input from the wonderful ppl on icmag. anybody have any issues or advice relating to growing in a hot, dry climate? we are 3000ft elevation near Yosemite so the sunlight is intense.
V
Veg N Out
Check your ERGS. Sounds like something is out of whack and your battery isn't functioning right.
http://www.aglabs.com/newletters/understanding_soil.html
That will help understand what ERGS means. That would include taking soil samples and sending them to a lab. Are you guys sure your not over compensating for the yellow leafs by slamming high N down their throats?
That will help understand what ERGS means. That would include taking soil samples and sending them to a lab. Are you guys sure your not over compensating for the yellow leafs by slamming high N down their throats?
thanks for the link. I've been reading over this thread but it's massive and hard to locate specific info.
We definitely are not overcompensating with fertilizer, our feeding schedule is very minimal. our vermifire soil was amended with enough stuff to last a good while i think.
since all our seed plants are doing very well i am starting to wonder if clones of an older strain are just more easily stressed. but a scientific approach will be benificial so i will look into the soil testing. i will also try to get some pictures up.
the main reason i think it is heat related is because the south sides of the plants are yellowing most. which could of course be a coincidence
heat and elevation have never been a problem for me...or many folks i know. It was over 100 for many days in a row this year and most things were thriving..
tbh if you have good soil and good/ample water, then the temps and elevation shouldnt matter imo. Just give them what they need and you can grow anywhere.
tbh if you have good soil and good/ample water, then the temps and elevation shouldnt matter imo. Just give them what they need and you can grow anywhere.
V
Veg N Out
Schrews, get a meter and do a test. It sounds like your plants are not able to access their cache of nutrients. ERGS changes with temperature , like BRIX...So if it is getting very hot and you're seeing slow growth it is possible that you have charged your soil so much that the heat is actually causing the plants to uptake too much nutrients, this causes the stunted unhappy growth you are reporting.
If it is hot you want to water the shit out of them and not feed them or have a lot of amendments that are breaking down on top of each other.
Did you test the Vermifire before and after you adjusted it to know what you are working with? If not, doing so would have saved you much headache and given us a reference point to go from to recommend a solution to your problem.
Best of luck
If it is hot you want to water the shit out of them and not feed them or have a lot of amendments that are breaking down on top of each other.
Did you test the Vermifire before and after you adjusted it to know what you are working with? If not, doing so would have saved you much headache and given us a reference point to go from to recommend a solution to your problem.
Best of luck
Casey Jones.
Garden shot
yellowing of the leaves is also an early sign of fusarium and wilt....hopefully thats not the case. treat suspect plants with a h202 spot treatment followed by a compost tea with actinovate and a few other things.
keep an eye on them especially if you see lower branches wilting. the older clones are always the most susceptible especially mother plants.
keep an eye on them especially if you see lower branches wilting. the older clones are always the most susceptible especially mother plants.
First of all what Veg said. And without the soil test I do not know this for sure but I suspect VermiFire is short on Ca. Without Ca you are not getting minerals into the plants. But...like I said without the soil test I do not know for a fact.
Test spray one plant with a good amino Ca product and measure brix before and after. If it goes up in a couple of hrs there is part of your problem.
I grow at 100 in the day time and less than 10% humidity without these problems.
It seems to be a major thing to get people to use actual metrics...soil tests (both Mehlich III and paste preferably), brix, sap pH, ergs (or soil EC). If you use these things...control graph them even...then when problems arise you can get real answers instead of guesses. If you are doing it for a living how can you not want this info?
Sorry if that sounds harsh. But diagnosing a problem with no data, no visuals and no idea what is in the soil in the first place is not gonna work.
V
Veg N Out
I highly doubt this is his problem.
I suspect the problem lies in the choice to use an untested bagged soil that they modified. Did they calculate how much of each element their various inputs were adding to the guaranteed analysis of the soil? Better yet, to the test they should have gotten of their bagged soil.
Also what type of water are they using? Have they tested it to know its properties?
Like Milky says, if this is your job, treat it like a job. Get the tools you need to know what is going on, invest in the proper testing beforehand to know what you are getting in to and put yourself in a position to be proactive instead of reactive.
It's too expensive to fuck up your one chance of growing trees per year to not spend the $125 to get a soil test, the $1500 or so a good set of meters will run you, and $15 for a note book with graph paper and a ruler.
hey veg did you run tests on the norcal blend, how is it holding up through the season? did you have to add anything to it. we're having zero issues with yellowing in the norcal blend, everything looks healthy just slow stretch in certain strains...fwiw, fisher15 is using vermifire blend and crushing it right now, his plants are bigger than anything we have going in the norcal blend. not sure if he amended his differently. we are following dave royals regime using no salt fertilizers at all in the root zone, and feeding mostly foliars and compost tea. quick reading up on ergs seems to back up his approach, too much ferts in the rootzone can slow the growth down and lead to pathogen issues, seems contrary to many peoples methods up here i know guys dumping entire gallons of cutting edge or general hydro into their reservoirs, running shitty empire builder or some other subpar soil and still growing some giants.
i only mentioned the fusarium because every plant that eventually wilts always turns yellow first from the bottoms and insides on out, so at this point a reactive approach has a small chance of success. if his plants are already unhealthy they are even more susceptible to root rot issues..even if they havent developed yet. too much salt/inbalanced ratios = stress on roots = pathogens attack through the weak roots = good bye plant.
even though im planning on swapping out everything for the norcal blend next year, guess i cant gamble everything on dave, gotta invest in some proper meters and start getting into the scientific aspects of this.....interesting to know about water testing never quite thought about that. both my gardens are getting different water sources, wonder if that could be one of the problems for my low elevation garden...such a weird problem because i have zero yellowing or signs of deficiency in the norcal blend, just some damn slow growth in certain clones.
i only mentioned the fusarium because every plant that eventually wilts always turns yellow first from the bottoms and insides on out, so at this point a reactive approach has a small chance of success. if his plants are already unhealthy they are even more susceptible to root rot issues..even if they havent developed yet. too much salt/inbalanced ratios = stress on roots = pathogens attack through the weak roots = good bye plant.
even though im planning on swapping out everything for the norcal blend next year, guess i cant gamble everything on dave, gotta invest in some proper meters and start getting into the scientific aspects of this.....interesting to know about water testing never quite thought about that. both my gardens are getting different water sources, wonder if that could be one of the problems for my low elevation garden...such a weird problem because i have zero yellowing or signs of deficiency in the norcal blend, just some damn slow growth in certain clones.
while we are on the subject (im sure its been mentioned somewhere in the last hundreds of pages)...but what are everybody prefered choice of meters?
im also wondering whats the ideal brix meter, we are using a refractometer and some kind of gravity meter for the winegrapes, is there a specific meter thats ideal of cannabis?
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