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High brix plants typically don't have pest/disease issues or at the least are dramatically minimized.By the by, I've been reading Michael Philips' "The Holistic Orchard: Tree Fruits and Berries the Biological Way" and I think there's a lot of advice on maintaining system health and dealing with pests that carries over very nicely to the multiple big plants you norcal guys are growing. His ethos is definitely in line with most of us here
Hi , I've been working with Dave for a few years now and we both follow the same principles when it comes to farming, those laid out by Tainio, Albrecht, and Reams.
The NorCal Blend itself is right in range for BCSR , pH , CEC...After a year of growing in it , the exchangeable nutrients were still off the charts, in other words; no amendment required, just biology to access the exchangeable cache. When I added more soil on top and charged my new mounds, the soluble nutrients all went off the charts in the right ratio.
I do my blend a little different than the standard NorCal blend now and include some things that are trade secrets at this point.
I have been hovering around a sap pH of 6.2 to 6.4 , Brix of 18-22, because these two readings have been hovering in the perfect zones I haven't used any other meters this year.
Here is a recent pic of an Betsy plant.
hi ~
I wanted to ask ya'll a couple o things.
do ya'll follow a constant watering schedule for the whole garden??
.. or you treat each plant individually and water them when they start to droop ???
and ..
for a couple of weeks now , I've been noticing the bluedream new leafs in the highest part of the plant are kind of " weak " ...
[URL=http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o533/ickybuds2012/DSC08344_zpsbc5348ac.jpg]View Image[/URL]
however, the rest of the plant looks fine ..
[URL=http://i1146.photobucket.com/albums/o533/ickybuds2012/DSC08339_zps248952f7.jpg]View Image[/URL]
... first I thought its a rootbound issue ,, but the'res no yellowing ..
... then I thought maybe too much water ,, so I've let it dry out and nothing changes ..
... then I figured maybe she is hungry for some nute .. but again ,no yellowing ...
... it also crossed my mind those parts of the plant are a bit " stressed " from dealing with the netting and the wind ... but some weak leafs are not touching the netting ..
... last couple of weeks where particularly rainy , can it be she just wants to get desert dry ?
any helpful advise is more than welcome ~ thx in advance
nice bushes green hands, when did those get planted? how do you avoid issues with water logged roots, are those mounds right on top of native soil or is there a aerated barrier of some kind? makes me we want to supersoak but im always hesitant about overwatering..good to know maybe il have to go try this out on a few plants.
Killer Spacing! I wish I had this much room in my gardens!
Next year I will do less plants in the patches I have and add more! It's always a process!
Big up Green Hand13
Have you thought about using tiny amounts of Biogenesis II and Pepzyme to jack that biology up next yr? I would be guessing you would have to be careful with it.
I am thinking about it myself. Just a hair worried cause I tend to be a little heavy handed.
On my bigger holes brix is right in that range also but sap pH is like 6.5-6.6. I might could have used a hair more phosphate.
On my smaller pots it is a struggle, constant manipulations to keep numbers decent. There is no substitute for big soil...I am a 100% believer.