I have to agree horse shit kicks ass as a soil amendment or as a compost tea, I have used a big bucket filled with horseshit and rainwater with much success.
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I have to agree horse shit kicks ass as a soil amendment or as a compost tea, I have used a big bucket filled with horseshit and rainwater with much success.
I did a grow in 1986 of Red Lebanese/ Afghani in Supersoil, as instructed by My Hippie Friends above Placerville. They grew in Turkey Manure, but suggested I make a tea of super chicken. I dumped half a bag into a 5 gallon bucket , then added water. It bubbled like crazy over the next couple months. That was the only fert I used. It worked great! The buds were rock hard, sweet, and stoney as hell. Some of the best weed Ive ever smoked in all my life.
igrowkushbitch
Active member
hey what would you guys say is a good ratio for horse manure? I have access to as much as I want. I was thinking 30% of my 200-400 gallon holes.
- Hey Nomaad, I remember reading that you wanted to pull at least 5 pounds from 200 gallon smart pots, I was wondering if you achieved this goal?
- Actually, while I am at it, what were people’s yields?
- Tom? Humboldtlocal and GanjaD? Any kind of estimate on what all the gardens pulled?, an average of the overall yield versus number of plants, and what the largest plant yielded?
- May have been too much data to take with all the other work you needed to do for the harvest
, but I thought I’d ask to see if there is any idea of numbers, if something 15 or even 20 lbs came out of those trees?
- Most gardens seem to be about 20 or so plants, if an average of 10lb a plant, that alone would be pretty ridiculous, especially considering plants starting their journey in april-may and finishing September- early October. 5-6 months growth and flowering for that much yield, especially considering 3 to 4 months vegetation time.
- With these large pots garnering such large yields, indoor growers may want to think of increasing their grow space if possible (maybe just the height ), cutting down on plant numbers, get more lights, and just focus on a few large pot indoor MonStars. With a (hopeful) lack of pests to deal with indoors, and a more controlled environment, even faster growth could be possible, with then the ability to flip to flowering sooner.
- When I see these plants, these growth rates, and these numbers, and I think of people indoors with (gasp less than 1 gallon pots), 2 gallon pots, 5 gallons, 10 gallons, even 20 gallons, and the time they put into vegetating these plants for 1 or 2 months or more, and the size they get to, before they decide to flip to flower… And what they could have achieved in size of plant and yield if instead pot size was increased, and perhaps plant numbers decreased (and that’s usually better legally, isn’t it folks?), (and care was given to more lighting, good ventilation, use of nutrients, etc.) with the same amount of time… It just makes me wonder, WTF kind of research do growers actually do when they say they do research and they know what there is to know about growing, especially because they have the experience?
- I can understand needing to keep it small, but has anyone really studied and considered pot sizes, vegetation/flowering times, and yield, on a per plant and per grow basis, to get an idea of what is possible and what one should probably be yielding? What’s the yield of a sea of green with X pot size verses X big plants of X pot size, and what is the difference in vegetating time verses yield? What is the better way to go, more numbers, less to zero veg time, or larger pot with a little more time? What is the time it takes for a vegetating+flowering plant’s root system to overgrow it’s container of X size to the point growth and yield will be diminished? Anyone really look into these things? I think not. I imagine most growers are actually yielding much less even if growing more plants, putting more work into it, more time than necessary for vegetating, etc., by not starting with large(r) pots to begin with. People may want to start thinking about drilling some drainage holes in large rubbermaids and using the covers as water catchers or use a rubbermaid in a rubbermaid for the runoff, or using those large plastic clothes bins. Unless one would take their large homemade (smart) pots indoort.. Come on, OVERgrow people!
- Thanks guys for actually doing research. You have advanced Cannabis botany, horticulture, and taxonomy.
- And I say taxonomy because you have proven (to me quite obviously at least) that plant height is simply a matter of genetic selection and size of pot, whether a plant is narrow or wide leaved makes no difference in the size it can obtain! This is a very startling finding, as most Cannabis mythology and aficionados/horticulturalists say that “sativa” plants are taller and skinnier in shape, where as “indica” plants are shorter and bushier. Myth – BUSTED (which to me lends more evidence to the fact that Cannabis is one species and there is no “indica”)! You guys just eviscerated years and years of not only poor horticultural “knowledge” (re. bullshit), but bad science being bantered about back and forth by serious Cannabis scientists (I won’t drop any names) in legitimate scientific articles for the last, oh, 100 years or more I’d say? Yeah, that’s about right
[FONT="]- There needs to be a Nobel prize for weed so I can give it to you.[/FONT]
- Actually, while I am at it, what were people’s yields?
- Tom? Humboldtlocal and GanjaD? Any kind of estimate on what all the gardens pulled?, an average of the overall yield versus number of plants, and what the largest plant yielded?
- May have been too much data to take with all the other work you needed to do for the harvest
, but I thought I’d ask to see if there is any idea of numbers, if something 15 or even 20 lbs came out of those trees?- Most gardens seem to be about 20 or so plants, if an average of 10lb a plant, that alone would be pretty ridiculous, especially considering plants starting their journey in april-may and finishing September- early October. 5-6 months growth and flowering for that much yield, especially considering 3 to 4 months vegetation time.
- With these large pots garnering such large yields, indoor growers may want to think of increasing their grow space if possible (maybe just the height
), cutting down on plant numbers, get more lights, and just focus on a few large pot indoor MonStars. With a (hopeful) lack of pests to deal with indoors, and a more controlled environment, even faster growth could be possible, with then the ability to flip to flowering sooner.- When I see these plants, these growth rates, and these numbers, and I think of people indoors with (gasp less than 1 gallon pots), 2 gallon pots, 5 gallons, 10 gallons, even 20 gallons, and the time they put into vegetating these plants for 1 or 2 months or more, and the size they get to, before they decide to flip to flower… And what they could have achieved in size of plant and yield if instead pot size was increased, and perhaps plant numbers decreased (and that’s usually better legally, isn’t it folks?), (and care was given to more lighting, good ventilation, use of nutrients, etc.) with the same amount of time… It just makes me wonder, WTF kind of research do growers actually do when they say they do research and they know what there is to know about growing, especially because they have the experience?
- I can understand needing to keep it small, but has anyone really studied and considered pot sizes, vegetation/flowering times, and yield, on a per plant and per grow basis, to get an idea of what is possible and what one should probably be yielding? What’s the yield of a sea of green with X pot size verses X big plants of X pot size, and what is the difference in vegetating time verses yield? What is the better way to go, more numbers, less to zero veg time, or larger pot with a little more time? What is the time it takes for a vegetating+flowering plant’s root system to overgrow it’s container of X size to the point growth and yield will be diminished? Anyone really look into these things? I think not. I imagine most growers are actually yielding much less even if growing more plants, putting more work into it, more time than necessary for vegetating, etc., by not starting with large(r) pots to begin with. People may want to start thinking about drilling some drainage holes in large rubbermaids and using the covers as water catchers or use a rubbermaid in a rubbermaid for the runoff, or using those large plastic clothes bins. Unless one would take their large homemade (smart) pots indoort.. Come on, OVERgrow people!
- Thanks guys for actually doing research. You have advanced Cannabis botany, horticulture, and taxonomy.
- And I say taxonomy because you have proven (to me quite obviously at least) that plant height is simply a matter of genetic selection and size of pot, whether a plant is narrow or wide leaved makes no difference in the size it can obtain! This is a very startling finding, as most Cannabis mythology and aficionados/horticulturalists say that “sativa” plants are taller and skinnier in shape, where as “indica” plants are shorter and bushier. Myth – BUSTED (which to me lends more evidence to the fact that Cannabis is one species and there is no “indica”)! You guys just eviscerated years and years of not only poor horticultural “knowledge” (re. bullshit), but bad science being bantered about back and forth by serious Cannabis scientists (I won’t drop any names) in legitimate scientific articles for the last, oh, 100 years or more I’d say? Yeah, that’s about right
[FONT="]- There needs to be a Nobel prize for weed so I can give it to you.[/FONT]
- Look to the outdoors forum around 4/20 for a special 420 surprise
T
Trinity Gold
Cannabologist - There are indica and sativa gene pools. Most of what every one grows today is a hybrid of the two... People are doing trees inside..The system is called Krusty Buckets and can throw 2-3 lb plants indoor
T
Trinity Gold
50% !! "Mantoid" Did 50% Horse and 50% Green waste compost and tore it up! Check out his "Gardening with free supplies" thread!
Y
YosemiteSam
Possibly off topic but indoors, vertical lights, 20 gallon containers of coco, refined mineral salts...this is an ISS surrounded by 4 1000 watt bulbs at 17 days into flower...should go around 3 lbs
The plant is about 6 ft tall and 8 ft in diameter.
It is based on a lot of principles learned in this very thread.
As soon as I come up with an area to tend soil between grows I intend to try a 100 gallon pot of organic soil and see if I cannot get the same yield. I remain unclear on exactly how one amends organic soil between grows though...gotta get comfortable with that before I try also.
The plant is about 6 ft tall and 8 ft in diameter.
It is based on a lot of principles learned in this very thread.
As soon as I come up with an area to tend soil between grows I intend to try a 100 gallon pot of organic soil and see if I cannot get the same yield. I remain unclear on exactly how one amends organic soil between grows though...gotta get comfortable with that before I try also.
when u say 50 percent green waste does that mean only nitrogen rich souces like weeds and grass clippings? or is there leaves and carbon-rich ingredients too? also, how much of this compost would one need to amend an 8 ft container?
on a side note is it ok to plug 1 gallon starters into my large containers? im planning on planting in a week or so and all of my ladies are in one gallon pots. should i put them in 5's b4 they go out? or would that be counterproductive to sinking them in there big pots early?
G
guest8905
Yosemite u r ballin!!!!!!!!!
T
Trinity Gold
Organic P theres nothing detrimental to putting your plants in to your final containers as early is possible. That is what grows the biggest plants. You want to make sure you have a lot of Carbon in the stack too I guess...Read Mantoids thread PS> All my stuff is in 10 and 20 gallon grow bags. Will plug by May 7 this year. Yay
PS> All my stuff is in 10 and 20 gallon grow bags. Will plug by May 7 this year. Yay
B
Butte_Creek
trinity gold- ^ serious start ! way to go
B
Butte_Creek
i know there was a small discussion about avoiding transplant shock when using smart pots during pre-veg.
why not use air pots, or whatever they're called, with the holes, they come completely apart, the perforated side unwraps and becomes a single sheet... i already have 30 or so 3/5 gal smart pots, damn might have to buy a couple dozen air pots..
why not use air pots, or whatever they're called, with the holes, they come completely apart, the perforated side unwraps and becomes a single sheet... i already have 30 or so 3/5 gal smart pots, damn might have to buy a couple dozen air pots..
Organic P theres nothing detrimental to putting your plants in to your final containers as early is possible. That is what grows the biggest plants. You want to make sure you have a lot of Carbon in the stack too I guess...Read Mantoids thread
Ok, so if you were me, would u transplant your one gallon starts now into there large containers?... or keep em in the veg room, transplant to 7 gals and put out on may 7th.
fwiw: the containers are about 225 gallons and i have mild sf bay area weather.
WayOutHere
New member
Organic P As long as your soil is not too hot, and you can give supplemental lighting of some type I would definately put them out now! let those roots explore!
G
guest8905
yeah last year it was end of april when lots of big plant growers put out, little did they expect the wrath of la nina, although most survived..........
Light Dep/ Black Boxes
Light Dep/ Black Boxes
I wish there was a thread dedicated to Light Dep's and Black Boxes because there's a lack of info on them and so many growers are shifting towards or at least using them in their operation.
I'm basically looking for some pictures of peoples light dep situation, and see what the consensus is for the most practical system. I have a ridge that gets good early season light but is a black hole come the later season and I wanna light dep the shit out of it. There's room for about 40 60 gallon smarties, don't think I'm going to use all of them but it's good size.
I was thinking about starting to pull the shades around the first week of june? Any insights, pictures, fails, success stories are all welcomed and appreciated.
Light Dep/ Black Boxes
I wish there was a thread dedicated to Light Dep's and Black Boxes because there's a lack of info on them and so many growers are shifting towards or at least using them in their operation.
I'm basically looking for some pictures of peoples light dep situation, and see what the consensus is for the most practical system. I have a ridge that gets good early season light but is a black hole come the later season and I wanna light dep the shit out of it. There's room for about 40 60 gallon smarties, don't think I'm going to use all of them but it's good size.
I was thinking about starting to pull the shades around the first week of june? Any insights, pictures, fails, success stories are all welcomed and appreciated.
start "yanking kivvers" as Tom likes to say as early as possible. The whole point of Black boxes is to harvest before the market is flooded with outdoor. The earlier, the better.
One point in favor of starting to tarp later is that you will have more time at the end of the flowering phase that you will be able to just leave the black boxes uncovered because the natural light cycles will not be sufficiently different from your 12/12/ tarp schedule to send your plants back into veg. Last week I got two sweet weeks at the end with no tarping. Its not that anybody really minds pulling tarp... it was more an awesome end to the humidity that was stressing the fuck out of a couple of strains.
First week of June was when we started pulling last year. With better organization this year, we hope to be pulling by the 2nd or third week in May.
I am going to be flooding my black boxes with dry outside air at all times when covered. I am going to create a light proof intake and passive exhaust for humid air.
One point in favor of starting to tarp later is that you will have more time at the end of the flowering phase that you will be able to just leave the black boxes uncovered because the natural light cycles will not be sufficiently different from your 12/12/ tarp schedule to send your plants back into veg. Last week I got two sweet weeks at the end with no tarping. Its not that anybody really minds pulling tarp... it was more an awesome end to the humidity that was stressing the fuck out of a couple of strains.
First week of June was when we started pulling last year. With better organization this year, we hope to be pulling by the 2nd or third week in May.
I am going to be flooding my black boxes with dry outside air at all times when covered. I am going to create a light proof intake and passive exhaust for humid air.
Y
YosemiteSam
ERGS Meters
ERGS Meters
I have just ordered one of these meters. I am thinking it is a most excellent tool for the Bat belt if one wants to really push their plants while being able to have a metric for what is "too much".
For people that use them what are the safe upper limits...where growth is maximized but where you don't burn the plants? (obviosusly that number is affected by exactly what is in your soil...that balance, but I am just asking in general)
Also how do people collect the soil sample? Do you cut through roots to get the sample or is there a better way which has not occured to me yet?
Also what other tests do you run on the same sample...pH and Na seem obvious, but are there others?
ERGS Meters
I have just ordered one of these meters. I am thinking it is a most excellent tool for the Bat belt if one wants to really push their plants while being able to have a metric for what is "too much".
For people that use them what are the safe upper limits...where growth is maximized but where you don't burn the plants? (obviosusly that number is affected by exactly what is in your soil...that balance, but I am just asking in general)
Also how do people collect the soil sample? Do you cut through roots to get the sample or is there a better way which has not occured to me yet?
Also what other tests do you run on the same sample...pH and Na seem obvious, but are there others?
ms try comb
Member
im surprised this is employed in more black box situations.......id never do it ne other way.
what strains ru targeting for the black box this year?
id prefer a light proof exhaust and a passive intake, why your choice of the opposite im curious? my thoughts were exhausting though a hole dug in the ground , as its not important to remove heat, just switch air.......lowering humidity.
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