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Butte, I learned a lot from you as a lurker last year. I'm glad to see you're back. And looking nicely prepared, wot? Good luck this season.
Tom's or Butte's Soil Mix?
Tom's or Butte's Soil Mix?
Hey Tom, I wanted to see if you're still using the current soil mix from 09 or if you changed up any of the variables in your mix? Inquiring minds would be very very appreciative to hear about this.......I know the season is about to kick in for many but if you could chime in on these two questions when you have time I'm sure it would help many.
Also--Brix Mix
This was a quote I pulled from Nomaad's thread and wanted to know what you were going to supplement Brix Mix with this year?
"I really like the Brix Mix and have been using it for many years, plus molasses, adjusted to pH 5.8 or so via ascorbic acid and brought to ORP 150 via h202. I use it @ 1/2 recommended strength - bi-weekly. It is a fix-all before there is anything to fix. It is a very complete fertilizer and has completely eliminated pm from my crops too. -T"
Butte!
Great to see you post up and looks like you been keeping busy this winter---nice round up. What's in that beautiful mountain of fecundity there man? As I'm trying to acquire soil mix recipes it would be great to hear what's in that mound. Your project this year looks awesome man, hope we get to see her in full bloom.
Tom's or Butte's Soil Mix?
Hey Tom, I wanted to see if you're still using the current soil mix from 09 or if you changed up any of the variables in your mix? Inquiring minds would be very very appreciative to hear about this.......I know the season is about to kick in for many but if you could chime in on these two questions when you have time I'm sure it would help many.
Also--Brix Mix
This was a quote I pulled from Nomaad's thread and wanted to know what you were going to supplement Brix Mix with this year?
"I really like the Brix Mix and have been using it for many years, plus molasses, adjusted to pH 5.8 or so via ascorbic acid and brought to ORP 150 via h202. I use it @ 1/2 recommended strength - bi-weekly. It is a fix-all before there is anything to fix. It is a very complete fertilizer and has completely eliminated pm from my crops too. -T"
Butte!
Great to see you post up and looks like you been keeping busy this winter---nice round up. What's in that beautiful mountain of fecundity there man? As I'm trying to acquire soil mix recipes it would be great to hear what's in that mound. Your project this year looks awesome man, hope we get to see her in full bloom.
FillthePotmore
Member
Outdoor Light Deprivation Strains...
Outdoor Light Deprivation Strains...
Curious to know what others consider a great strain to run in a "Light Deprivation" set up... alongside the long- season strains.
Current top-pick options include: 1). Triangle Kush, 2). Blackberry Kush, 3). Blue Frost, 4). Fire Kush, 5). Sour Diesel, 6). LA Confidential, 7). Blockhead, 8). Alien Kush, 9). Granddaddy Purple, 10). GDP x AW, 11). Old Betsy, 12). Bomb Threat
Would love to hear success stories and any information pertaining to strains previously used in "Light Dep" situations that have a high-yield rate, bag appeal, aroma, and smoke - Good Medicine! Anyone else running a "Light Dep" this season?
Outdoor Light Deprivation Strains...
Curious to know what others consider a great strain to run in a "Light Deprivation" set up... alongside the long- season strains.
Current top-pick options include: 1). Triangle Kush, 2). Blackberry Kush, 3). Blue Frost, 4). Fire Kush, 5). Sour Diesel, 6). LA Confidential, 7). Blockhead, 8). Alien Kush, 9). Granddaddy Purple, 10). GDP x AW, 11). Old Betsy, 12). Bomb Threat
Would love to hear success stories and any information pertaining to strains previously used in "Light Dep" situations that have a high-yield rate, bag appeal, aroma, and smoke - Good Medicine! Anyone else running a "Light Dep" this season?
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T
Trinity Gold
I grew the Bomb Threat in the light dep and pulled 8oz plants from 25 gallon pots. I could have done better if I did them in just one large mound or larger pots but the quality was there in spades.
The advantage of the light dep is bringing medicine to market during the "dry" season so more boutique strains are the ticket IMHO...in other words devote the time to the strains that are "in demand" but would not be worth a mound of soil in return on the full season.
Can't wait to see what you do this year Fill. Big love. D
The advantage of the light dep is bringing medicine to market during the "dry" season so more boutique strains are the ticket IMHO...in other words devote the time to the strains that are "in demand" but would not be worth a mound of soil in return on the full season.
Can't wait to see what you do this year Fill. Big love. D
B
Butte_Creek
somoz- someone posted a comment on this thread earlier giving the exact ingredients and ratios of brix mix. you can get an idea of what supplements are in it, or even recreate the product. I would go ahead and use some of the supplements and not worry about exactly recreating the product... like a hydrolyzed liquid kelp, hydrolyzed liquid fish, humic acid, molasses, and some kind of spreader/sticker like the therm x70 for foliar effectiveness.
here, i just went and found it:
"Feel free to change the blend to suit your needs and the availability of the ingredients.
You do not have to use every ingredient for the mix to be beneficial. For example: if you don’t have Phytamin 4-3-4, you could sub a liquid fish or a dry fish powder, like HFPC hydrolyzed fish. If you prefer, you can use a liquid kelp extract in place of maxicrop. If you don’t have a trace mineral deficiency, you can do without the MB powdered chelates. Keep in mind that kelps, such as maxicrop, do provide some trace minerals. If you don’t have access to a liquid sulfur, just leave it out of the blend. "
Liquid Brix Mix
16.5% Molasses
16.5% non GMO pure Malt
25% Phytamin 4-3-4
24% Humax
16.5% liquid sulfur
1.5% Therm-X 70
Dry Brix Mix
13% Maxicrop
19% Fertall MB Powdered Chelates
31% Powdered sugar
37% Diamond K soluble Sulfate of Potash
here, i just went and found it:
"Feel free to change the blend to suit your needs and the availability of the ingredients.
You do not have to use every ingredient for the mix to be beneficial. For example: if you don’t have Phytamin 4-3-4, you could sub a liquid fish or a dry fish powder, like HFPC hydrolyzed fish. If you prefer, you can use a liquid kelp extract in place of maxicrop. If you don’t have a trace mineral deficiency, you can do without the MB powdered chelates. Keep in mind that kelps, such as maxicrop, do provide some trace minerals. If you don’t have access to a liquid sulfur, just leave it out of the blend. "
Liquid Brix Mix
16.5% Molasses
16.5% non GMO pure Malt
25% Phytamin 4-3-4
24% Humax
16.5% liquid sulfur
1.5% Therm-X 70
Dry Brix Mix
13% Maxicrop
19% Fertall MB Powdered Chelates
31% Powdered sugar
37% Diamond K soluble Sulfate of Potash
primeform
Active member
Questions for guys rockin big plants this year. Please answer the following about your technique/setup.
Top dressings: guanos? when and what kinds?
Auto watering: whats the best way in your experience for 200 gallon smart pots
Foliar feeding: do you do it and what do you use?
Teas: do you rock beneficial microbes?
Top dressings: guanos? when and what kinds?
Auto watering: whats the best way in your experience for 200 gallon smart pots
Foliar feeding: do you do it and what do you use?
Teas: do you rock beneficial microbes?
B
Butte_Creek
primeform- any kind of high N bat guano during veg, get a big 50lb bag. pelletized sea bird guano 12-12-1 is killer for two week stretch! high P guano for flower. if using bat guano i usually top dress every couple weeks with it, stop using it a couple weeks before harvest. pretty simple. oh geez after writing this i see you asked guanos, i was assuming you were speaking bat guanos specifically, yet you might be referring to manures as well...
watersouce(sometimes a large storage tank and hard plumbing is necessary for increasing water pressure) < 1-1/2"poly/hose < 3/4" poly tube < spaghetti tube < sprayer emitters. some friends of mine had great success with laser line, it's like spaghetti tube with built in emitters. i like sprayers though, and i know tom hill recommends them.
4 sprayers evenly spaced would seem to be sufficient for 200 gal smart pot. i'll be using 6 for my 400 gal smart pots, and they will only be spraying h2o. for feeding i'll have a separate tank with inline pump, hose and shower head
foliar is very beneficial, highly recommended. sometimes over looked is how great it works for pest/pathogen prevention and management. going to need a back pack sprayer at least though
. good kelp(also some pest killing properties in kelp), maybe good hydrolyzed fish, molasses(to attract beneficial bacteria, they also take up and compete for leaf space preventing pathogens from entering your plants leaves), a humic acid, spreader/sticker like yucca extract(therm x 70, also works to keep drip lines and emitters unclogged and clear), and 1/2 tsp per gal of absorbic acid (vit c) for foliar effectiveness. if you batch compost teas, they are great for foliar. i like to foliar with some plain water every few times to clean the leaves off as well.
there will be beneficial microbes in your soil, depending on how fertile your mix is with compost and amendments to begin with and you could keep them populated and healthy w/out teas just so you know. but i will be batching AACTs for the first time this season. good quality humus/compost is necessary for a healthy populated tea, also rock dusts, humic acid and kelp feed your fungi population, and sugars like molasses feed your bacteria. my knowledge on AACTs is limited, but i'm reading a book right now to prepare myself.
watersouce(sometimes a large storage tank and hard plumbing is necessary for increasing water pressure) < 1-1/2"poly/hose < 3/4" poly tube < spaghetti tube < sprayer emitters. some friends of mine had great success with laser line, it's like spaghetti tube with built in emitters. i like sprayers though, and i know tom hill recommends them.
4 sprayers evenly spaced would seem to be sufficient for 200 gal smart pot. i'll be using 6 for my 400 gal smart pots, and they will only be spraying h2o. for feeding i'll have a separate tank with inline pump, hose and shower head
foliar is very beneficial, highly recommended. sometimes over looked is how great it works for pest/pathogen prevention and management. going to need a back pack sprayer at least though
. good kelp(also some pest killing properties in kelp), maybe good hydrolyzed fish, molasses(to attract beneficial bacteria, they also take up and compete for leaf space preventing pathogens from entering your plants leaves), a humic acid, spreader/sticker like yucca extract(therm x 70, also works to keep drip lines and emitters unclogged and clear), and 1/2 tsp per gal of absorbic acid (vit c) for foliar effectiveness. if you batch compost teas, they are great for foliar. i like to foliar with some plain water every few times to clean the leaves off as well.there will be beneficial microbes in your soil, depending on how fertile your mix is with compost and amendments to begin with and you could keep them populated and healthy w/out teas just so you know. but i will be batching AACTs for the first time this season. good quality humus/compost is necessary for a healthy populated tea, also rock dusts, humic acid and kelp feed your fungi population, and sugars like molasses feed your bacteria. my knowledge on AACTs is limited, but i'm reading a book right now to prepare myself.
E
Eatatjoes
I'm putting together my own foliar mix this year, what do you guys think is the best time to spray? Morning or evening?
B
Butte_Creek
if it's food, morning definitely.
late and your plant could sit wet all night which is not a good thing. only time i do an evening spray is with spinosad or bt for catepillars because the sun light kills the spray, and it takes a little while for the spinosad and bt to enter the safety of the leaf.
some calcium foliar supplements require a certain ambient outside temperature for optimal leaf absorption, calcium 25 for example. i think they recommend something like 74f at least... think it has something to do with calcium being an immobile element...
late and your plant could sit wet all night which is not a good thing. only time i do an evening spray is with spinosad or bt for catepillars because the sun light kills the spray, and it takes a little while for the spinosad and bt to enter the safety of the leaf.
some calcium foliar supplements require a certain ambient outside temperature for optimal leaf absorption, calcium 25 for example. i think they recommend something like 74f at least... think it has something to do with calcium being an immobile element...
E
Eatatjoes
Thanks Butte,
I read somewhere that calcium 25 has PGR in it, have you heard that? It seems expensive for just a calcium supplement.
I read somewhere that calcium 25 has PGR in it, have you heard that? It seems expensive for just a calcium supplement.
G
Ganja D
Planting the more seeds tonight. Some goodies in there.
Let's do this boys. Feelin it!!
Let's do this boys. Feelin it!!
B
Butte_Creek
yes i am- the sun is not a set horizontal source of light, it rises and sets, so it provides better penetration through many angles of direct light. good sun location creates a very wide thick bush, less desirable location with less direct sun creates a plant that continues to grow up and much less out. most guys doing very large plants will harvest in tiers to allow the lower buds to fill out and mature if necessary, harvesting the tops first etc. usually don't have to worry about the bottom of the plants not filling out, always good to trim and remove all the growth on the inside and very underside of the bush to remove popcorn prone flowers.
B
Butte_Creek
eatatjoes-all i know is that cal25 will last a very long time with how much is used per gallon and how much you get. not worried about the price. haven't looked into the PGR issue yet... interesting though
Good Morning Kanga 
Inspired, and a little jealous of your climate, where hazes can really finish. A _little_ jealous! (Northern California isn't _too_ crappy for, you know, some kinds of herb.)
Y
YosemiteSam
There is triacontonal in Ca25...here is the patent info http://www.patentgenius.com/patent/4333758.html. Tria alone should be no problem at all...but it has to be made miscible in water with the use of a non polar solvent like acetone or methyl ethyl ketone. Obviously not enough for OMRI to think it is a concern.
I have continued to use it with outstanding results. Everyone needs to let their own conscious be their guide.
It is disturbing that there is no mention of it anywhere I could find in the marketing for it. Otherwise it is just CaCl which would be very cheap without the tria.
If you are just looking to spray Ca without the tria another alternative would be Albion Metalosate Ca...it is a true amino chelated Ca product...no anions per se involved at all. The powder is also OMRI certified. Here is some Albion info
http://www.albionminerals.com/plant-nutrition
I have continued to use it with outstanding results. Everyone needs to let their own conscious be their guide.
It is disturbing that there is no mention of it anywhere I could find in the marketing for it. Otherwise it is just CaCl which would be very cheap without the tria.
If you are just looking to spray Ca without the tria another alternative would be Albion Metalosate Ca...it is a true amino chelated Ca product...no anions per se involved at all. The powder is also OMRI certified. Here is some Albion info
http://www.albionminerals.com/plant-nutrition
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