Thai

[dubi]

Lovely @BC LONE WOLF looks like one is already showing signs of being pollinated
When breeding, better use clones from selected well tested parent plants rather than pollinate blindly.

 

[BC LONE WOLF]

Lovely @BC LONE WOLF looks like one is already showing signs of being pollinated
When breeding, better use clones from selected well tested parent plants rather than pollinate blindly.

Yeah early pollination was done because I have a one of a kind male with strong structure, so the male was not blindly selected. I also wanted to do most of the pollination process as outdoors as possible and being 49N I know after September non stop rain will kill the pollination process.

On the other hand I do have 3 clones of each Chiang Mai which will be tested during winter so I can know if it’s worth or not to keep the seeds I have already made. I’m also planning on testing progeny this winter. Clones and seeds on the same run.

I don’t have same parameters of breeding ACE has, I’m hoping to create a large gene pool for my future enjoyment, I have all the time in the world to do testing in the future.

One question for you if I may; when I read the description on these Chiang Mai; it says a well worked line. Would that imply that breeders here have already made selections ?

 

[GainesvilleGreen]

Lovely @BC LONE WOLF looks like one is already showing signs of being pollinated
When breeding, better use clones from selected well tested parent plants rather than pollinate blindly.

Expected a little better of a response from you @dubi. This guy is clearly respresenting YOUR brand of Thai ACE growing on this thread with great looking plants. He's told you multiple times he lives in the 49n trying to repo some beans for his outdoor micro grow.
We all know about clones but we all don't grow on multiple acres like you do from ACE.
Why put in feedback that's so basic, which YOU know, he knows about already!?
Have you seen his Duterte's (Phillpino male) ? You should be applauding it my friend.

 

[H e d g e]

@BC LONE WOLF great post for #420 in the thread! Beautiful plants.
@dubi you were right about my strawberry, I flowered the seed plant and it’s about 50:50 male female. I’ve not given up on it yet though, this is it grafted onto Baluchi rootstock.
Might be happier living in a small pot as a scion if the roots have a bit less vigor.

 

[dubi]

Sounds like a good plan @BC LONE WOLF Sorry if my previous post came across as rude, that wasn’t my intention. I just wanted to emphasize the importance of the following order when breeding with a new line: grow as many as possible from seed, clone them, flower them, evaluate them, and then select the ones for breeding. When taking a different route, the results are never as good.

 

[LG/]

Thai, 5 on the right side of the tent

Sounds like a good plan @BC LONE WOLF Sorry if my previous post came across as rude, that wasn’t my intention. I just wanted to emphasize the importance of the following order when breeding with a new line: grow as many as possible from seed, clone them, flower them, evaluate them, and then select the ones for breeding. When taking a different route, the results are never as good.

I appreciate you Dubi and I'm sure a lot of other people on here do as well
Onwards.
For argument sake, let's say I start 10 seeds. I get 5 males and 5 females. I run each group in two separate areas. I take pollen from every male and pollinate one bud on every female, labeling as I go.
I then finish the run, test the unpollinated female flowers and make my observations overall (even let the males run just for fun).
Finally I pick the best female or females, and accordingly the best males paired with the best females, and use those to move forward.
I think this would be nearly as good as the cloning and running everything out method. This is only practical in lower numbers tho.

What I've been doing is selecting
males and hitting every female on one branch with each male I picked. Then the seeds from the best girls are the seeds I use moving forward.

 

[dubi]

grow as many as possible from seed, clone them, flower them, evaluate them, and then select the ones for breeding. When taking a different route, the results are never as good.

That's mainly for hybrid breeding like in your case @BC LONE WOLF

However, for landrace preservation open pollination of large populations is required. Otherwise, genetic diversity is lost with each new reproduction, bottlenecking the population. Unless carefully inbred for desirable traits, the line can easily become low in vigor and uninterestingly homozygous.

In the case of this Thai Chiang Mai preservation, dozens of parent plants from different generations were open pollinated after removing intersex females, males, and low vigor plants during growth. Different phenotypes were observed, as described in the strain description, and the best females from each phenotype were identified (and previously cloned). Only seeds from the best seed lots have been included in this release.

After this point, once the landrace is well preserved in seed form and the best parent plants are safely cloned, females with specific, desirable, and well-known traits are selected for hybrid breeding goals in combination with other genetics.

 

[dubi]

Thai, 5 on the right side of the tent

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I appreciate you Dubi and I'm sure a lot of other people on here do as well
Onwards.
For argument sake, let's say I start 10 seeds. I get 5 males and 5 females. I run each group in two separate areas. I take pollen from every male and pollinate one bud on every female, labeling as I go.
I then finish the run, test the unpollinated female flowers and make my observations overall (even let the males run just for fun).
Finally I pick the best female or females, and accordingly the best males paired with the best females, and use those to move forward.
I think this would be nearly as good as the cloning and running everything out method. This is only practical in lower numbers tho.

What I've been doing is selecting
males and hitting every female on one branch with each male I picked. Then the seeds from the best girls are the seeds I use moving forward.

Hi @LG/ if the goal is preservation, then yes, that's the best approach in your case. Your future populations will certainly become more inbred using a low number of plants, becoming less diverse with each generation. So at least try to fix or improve the quality-frequency of certain desirable traits that you prefer through your selections and inbreeding process.

Keeping the best parents in clone form really makes a difference, as you can more accurately inbreed the line for your favorite traits and incorporate these desirable traits into outcrosses more easily, allowing you to replicate results, both in cultivation and breeding.

 

[PapaThai]

Hello, yes @dubi just one seed , really three but just one female , whiteout any sign of hermis, smell woody and a little lemon.

@dubi, I have seen dried out leaf tips curling up like in the pics of @entonces repeatedly in different landrace sativas yet. But I'm still wondering what the exact issue is. Is it overfeeding (especially with phophorous and/or potassium)? Is it any deficiency or a pH problem? Or heat stress?

Whenever I'm confronted with those crispy tips I'm asking myself, what would be the right next step.

@dubi, maybe you can elaborate a little on that issue. I would highly appreciate to read about your thoughts on that.

 

[dubi]

Welcome to ICMag @PapaThai

It’s not easy to finish long flowering tropical sativas indoors with immaculate health. Due to their long flowering period, it’s easier to encounter problems during this phase: rootbound plants, overfeeding, pH swings, salt buildup, and the use of indoor fertilizers not suited for landrace sativas. These are typical challenges indoor growers face when cultivating long-flowering tropical sativas, such as Thais.

Outdoors, in a proper warm-hot climate and planted directly in the ground, it’s a completely different story. Tropical sativas easily finish healthy and green without needing the same amount of nutrients as modern strains, just water, sun, and consistent high temperatures.

 

[PapaThai]

Welcome to ICMag @PapaThai

It’s not easy to finish long flowering tropical sativas indoors with immaculate health. Due to their long flowering period, it’s easier to encounter problems during this phase: rootbound plants, overfeeding, pH swings, salt buildup, and the use of indoor fertilizers not suited for landrace sativas. These are typical challenges indoor growers face when cultivating long-flowering tropical sativas, such as Thais.

Outdoors, in a proper warm-hot climate and planted directly in the ground, it’s a completely different story. Tropical sativas easily finish healthy and green without needing the same amount of nutrients as modern strains, just water, sun, and consistent high temperatures.

Thank you @dubi,
this makes up a good checklist for the next time I spot the first brown tips. Bookmark set!

Most time I experience those issues during a heat wave. It might well not be the heat itself but rather salt buildup as you pointed out, due to the plants taking up more water but less nutrients (relatively) during a hot period.

Another point I was thinking about, was high temps in the root zone. A problem you would rather not have outdoors as well.

 

[ilovegrowing]

Here is my thai chiang mai about 8/9 weeks 11/13.

I have to say, I didnt expect to finish her without burning the tips of her, which happened already, but otherwise bringing her through to the end is the main goal. and its not looking so bad starting to see some resin and a getting a good overall look of the flower structure

Also dont know how it happened, i guess it was too much bloom fertilizer and being rootbound. Will put her to a bigger pot asap. Next update with smell description

 

[BC LONE WOLF]

Looks tasty!! How’s the stretch??

 

[ilovegrowing]

Stretch is strong

I had her in a 1 L pot the first 3/4 weeks, and from then on they are in 3,6 L. They look like they didnt have enough nitrogen throughout the passed time, and still they stretched a fair bit until week 7/8 i guess.

Outside with good sun, warm temperatures in a big pot or even in the ground, the stretch would be gigantic. I guess 4 times the size from start of flowering. One of the stretchiest strains i have (yet). Thai chiang mai yoga queen

My guess is 22 weeks

 

[PapaThai]

I really like her lime green color. I would not say she's deficient in nitrogen at all as the smaller leaves in the buds are dark green. Looks very healthy to me. Good job so far.

I repeatedly got confused in the past by lime green fan leaves, while the small bud leaves are of dark green color at the same time.
My current personal regime is: As long as there is no cloudy yellowing appearing in the fan leaves I will not increase N. And as long as the small dark green bud leaves do not claw I will not cut down on N.

 

[Perdido]

yoga queen

Great name - will name my Thai cross after that.

 

[ilovegrowing]

I really like her lime green color. I would not say she's deficient in nitrogen at all as the smaller leaves in the buds are dark green. Looks very healthy to me. Good job so far.

I repeatedly got confused in the past by lime green fan leaves, while the small bud leaves are of dark green color at the same time.
My current personal regime is: As long as there is no cloudy yellowing appearing in the fan leaves I will not increase N. And as long as the small dark green bud leaves do not claw I will not cut down on N.

Yeah thats true, i recognized the darker inner green bud leaves, yet they happened to show themselves, when i started feeding more N fertilizer. My plan was to ve very careful with the feeding, but as she dropped more n more yellow fan leaves i had to increase.

On the pictures it seems more green than in reality. But im happy to see her alive and okay, thanks for the compliments @PapaThai . And sure @Perdido use the name, what are your breeding plans with the thai?

 

[LG/]

I really like her lime green color. I would not say she's deficient in nitrogen at all as the smaller leaves in the buds are dark green. Looks very healthy to me. Good job so far.

I repeatedly got confused in the past by lime green fan leaves, while the small bud leaves are of dark green color at the same time.
My current personal regime is: As long as there is no cloudy yellowing appearing in the fan leaves I will not increase N. And as long as the small dark green bud leaves do not claw I will not cut down on N.

I think the same thing happened to a buddy of mine with Bangi. My theory is it had lighter green leaves. So he fed it. And that just caused all sorts of problems.
I have to talk to him to verify. But he sent me a pic and said, what can I give this to help with these leaves? And they were lighter green but also looking stressed. I'm guessing from overfeeding. I said just do plain water and see what happens.

I personally love seeing different expressions like lighter leaves. Bag of Oranges does this ad well, the lighter green leaves are the more bright orange phenos. I also really like mutants and pearl phenos. Anything unique.

 

[BC LONE WOLF]

I’ve had genetics go all yellow but the leaflet at the flower remain green and healthy.

I don’t think that over feeding or under feeding is necessarily the issue. I think based on experience that pure sativa expressions have a way to shed unnecessary foliage as the flower progresses. Specially fan leaves from vegetative growth, each leaf becomes specialized as the flowering hormones kick in, going from a full 7-11 finger big solar receptors (veg leaf) to a small leaf with less leaflets 1-3 fingers to just a calyx which is a specialized leaf inflorescence.

Here are my two Chiang Mai at 8-10 weeks in “flower” 11/13 light. Only the tall lanky wild looking sativa expression pheno is shedding big fan leaves but the entire plant is healthy green and thriving with re flowering at all nodes… VS the more “hybrid” structure pheno, compact, green, but incredibly slower flowering than the other pheno, proof is found in the clones, ones are showing consistent signs of flower development and the other is not.

Compact structure/green pheno/slower flower

Taller pheno/fast inflorescence/pearl flower/full sativa expression/lime menthol sweet terps

My selection is clearly the wild feral pearl pheno. But I made seeds of both.

The real test I put anything thru is high humidity, cold environment and resistance to fungal infections. I don’t have an orthodox way to breed. I developed my own way that adapts to my outdoor needs. I don’t care for a high yielding pheno that gets mold/PM/rot in the first few days of rain or cold. I select for the most extreme sativa/NarrowLeaf phenotype, health overall and after I can search yield.

 

[Perdido]

And sure @Perdido use the name, what are your breeding plans with the thai?

I don't have any plans yet, but I have pollen
and mamas and more strains to plant, you know ...

I select for the most extreme sativa/NarrowLeaf phenotype

don't we all?