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Tea Article

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I typically use feed grade cane black strap molasses and always ensure it has no added preservatives (eg. sulphur). I often have upwards of 50 gallons in 5 gallon pails on site and have had them in storage over a year with no issues. I don't know why anyone would use a preservative besides a fungicide like sulphur in molasses, which is used itself as a preservative in some materials. Fish hydrolysate on the other hand must be preserved with phosphoric or sulphuric acid or it ruptures. I've experienced this.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
http://www.omri.org/simple-gml-search/results/phosphoric acid

Generic Materials Search: acid, phosphoric


Fish Products, Liquid – stabilized
Status: Allowed
Class: Crop Fertilizers and Soil Amendments
Origin: Synthetic
Description: Liquid fish products can be pH adjusted using synthetic citric, sulfuric, or phosphoric acid. The amount of acid used cannot exceed the minimum amount needed to lower the pH to 3.5. May be stabilized with preservatives that are on the National List and are allowed for that use or are nonsynthetic. See also FISH PRODUCTS, MULTI-INGREDIENT.
NOP Rule: 205.601(j)(7) Liquid fish products—can be pH adjusted with sulfuric, citric or phosphoric acid. The amount of acid used shall not exceed the minimum needed to lower the pH to 3.5.


Phosphoric Acid – synthetic
Status: Allowed with Restrictions
Class: Crop Fertilizers and Soil Amendments, Crop Management Tools and Production Aids
Origin: Synthetic
Description: Used for stabilizing liquid fish products only. See also FISH PRODUCTS, LIQUID – STABILIZED and FISH PRODUCTS, MULTI-INGREDIENT.


http://www.omri.org/simple-gml-search/results/sulfuric acid

Sulfuric Acid
Status: Allowed with Restrictions
Class: Crop Management Tools and Production Aids, Crop Pest, Weed, and Disease Control
Origin: Synthetic
Description: Classified as an inert of minimal risk (EPA List 4B). May be used as either an adjuvant or inert ingredient in combination with active pesticidal substances that are permitted as pesticides in organic production [excluding 25(b) exempt pesticides]. See also INERTS – LIST 4. May be used to adjust the pH of liquid fish products. The amount used shall not exceed the minimum needed to lower the pH to 3.5. See also FISH PRODUCTS, LIQUID – STABILIZED.
NOP Rule: 205.601(m) & 205.601(j)(7)
 

Payaso

Original Editor of ICMagazine
Veteran
Microbeman... you have an incredible inventory :)

Thanks so much for sharing this info also... I use this thread and others like a gold mine to become a better grower :)
 
was wondering if anyone knew the correct ratios to scale a 300gallon brewer. are there any large compost tea recipes. most i can find are only 5 gallons...
 

MrTea

some guy
Veteran
was wondering if anyone knew the correct ratios to scale a 300gallon brewer. are there any large compost tea recipes. most i can find are only 5 gallons...

5 gallon recipe:

1 cup castings
1/4 cup kelp

300/5=60

60x a 5gallon recipe:

60 cups casting
15 cups kelp

viola.
math.
 
i can do math.. just wasn't sure if it really was that simple...
I'm using alfalfa meal, guanos, kelp, soft rock phosphate and EWCs.
60 cups just seems a lot...
 

Hitman24

New member
Hi guys i have a question about ACT. is it ok to brew 20 gallons of tea using a 5 gallon bucket filled with the amount of worm casting and molasses necessary for the 20 gallons, bubble it for 24-48 hours, and then add the other 15 gallons of water before watering?
 

bigshrimp

Well-known member
Veteran
Hi guys i have a question about ACT. is it ok to brew 20 gallons of tea using a 5 gallon bucket filled with the amount of worm casting and molasses necessary for the 20 gallons, bubble it for 24-48 hours, and then add the other 15 gallons of water before watering?

No, If you want 20 gallons full strength you need a 20 gallon brewer. If you do that it will end up as 20 gallons of anaerobic sludge.
 

Bulldog420

Active member
Veteran
I disagree, I believe that you can dilute your 5 gallon brew into 20 gallons. However, if you add 20 gallons worth of material in a 5 gal bucket then for sure Bigshrimp is right.

Bountea says you can dilute up to 20x. I would imagine the same for any brew, just taking away it's full potential.
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
I disagree, I believe that you can dilute your 5 gallon brew into 20 gallons. However, if you add 20 gallons worth of material in a 5 gal bucket then for sure Bigshrimp is right.

Bountea says you can dilute up to 20x. I would imagine the same for any brew, just taking away it's full potential.

Diluted 20X is 20 times less microorganisms per unit of measure. Try to dilute with water close to the same temperature.
 

Kozmo

Active member
Veteran
Quick question. If I use a local organic soil producing brand, whose soil is producing awesome vegetable crops for me, and just water with ACT for the whole run. Would that be just as good as flip flopping my waterings from ACT to my Flora Nova Bloom/Dutch root zone mix?
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Hard to say. If you're getting great veg crops using ACT only, probably so. I'd probably want to give your MJ crop a feeding or 2 around weeks 3 and 5 of bloom with the Flora Nova just to be sure you reach full potential. Try one plant with ACT only for comparison and future reference. Good luck. -granger
 

greenisonepeace

New member
I make my own castings and there are many critters that I cannot identify. (Possibly also microbes fungi and pathogens) What are the chances when using this to brew tea with that one could indirectly transfer undesirables to your plants while watering? In 10 gallons of water I use .06 gallons molasses. .007 gallons kelp extract. and .007gallons fish hydrolysate any ideas to how I should adjust the ingredient or ratios. Do you use different ratios of the ingredients or different ingredients for flowering or veg. Thanks
 

Hitman24

New member
No, If you want 20 gallons full strength you need a 20 gallon brewer. If you do that it will end up as 20 gallons of anaerobic sludge.

You think it will turn anaerobic even if i dilute it just before i water my plants?

Sorry for all these questions, just wanna learn how to do things in the right way :biggrin:
 

bigshrimp

Well-known member
Veteran
Yes, with that much feedstock and compost it wont have enough dissolved oxygen to promote the kind of ecosystem we want.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
I don't advise diluting it 4 to 1 like this, but I see no reason why it would go anaerobic as long as everything else is right. Don't brew longer than 48 hours, use right away. -granger
 

Bulldog420

Active member
Veteran
I have a couple questions for the tea masters.

I am living at a new spot and trying to figure out how to brew up some tea. My problems in this spot are heat and electrical. I only have a couple spots where I could plug in, and one spot is under a nice shady area. However the temps get up to 90+ on a daily, and I am not sure the tea will brew properly. Does it take a shorter amount of time for a brew when the temps are that high? Should I keep it around 24-30 hours instead of 36? Right now I am using two 80 w pumps for 55gal, so that should be plenty of air.

Any help would be great.
 

HorseMouth

Active member
Tried the search, couldn't find the answer.

Anything I can add to the compost tea brew to cut down on the crazy foaming factor? Had a three foot high foam that didn't stop for hours today. It's getting worse, I did just upgrade the air pump to a larger size, is air flow the problem? Can I have too much forced air in my tea setup?

Thanks in advance.

Peace
 

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