Bazinga!
Bazinga!
LOL
http://www.ecostudies.org/compost_tea_recipes.html [or see below]
http://www.caryinstitute.org/index.html good site and good group
FWIW. I'd probably leave out the Humics because of MM's observations. I do like using a light dose of cold processed seaweed, and am willing to trade off the little longer brewing time.
I'm wondering about the chopped hay. Anyone have any preferences? I can always get alfalfa meal, bermuda, and a few others locally. Then at Pet stores they have mini bales of Timothy and what they call Orchard grass. I can get fresh bermuda in my yard.
I like using nutritional [inactive] yeast flakes for the amino acids, and it's loaded with B vitamins. No stink like fish products. -granger
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Compost Tea Brew Recipes
In essence, compost tea is not a fertilizer though there are nutrients available in a finished brew. Tea contains beneficial organisms needed to revitalize soil and reestablish a microcosm of bacterial and fungal groups. These groups make available nutrients needed by plants to maintain healthy growth and suppress disease. You may choose to customize your tea to be more bacterial or fungal-based, or have both microbial populations well represented in your finished tea. Using a well-balanced combination allows you to adopt a plant care regimen of enhancing plant growth and, at the same time, suppressing disease pathogens.
The recipes given are for 25 gallons of tea, with an alternate amount in red for 5 gallon brews. [Do the math or click link-granger]
Bacterial Tea
3 cups compost (worm)
½ cup kelp meal
3 oz. blackstrap molasses
3 oz. fruit juice (apple)
½ cup chopped feed hay
3 oz. fish emulsion 1 ½ cups compost
¼ cup kelp meal
2 oz. blackstrap molasses
2 oz. fruit juice (apple)
¼ cup chopped feed hay
1 oz. fish emulsion
Fungal Tea
3 cups fungal compost
3 oz. liquid humates
3 oz. blackstrap molasses
3 oz. yucca extracts (high saponyn)
3 oz. fish hydrolysates (oils)
½ cup kelp meal
½ cup chopped feed hay 1 ½ cups fungal compost
2 oz. liquid humates
2 oz. blackstrap molasses
1 oz. yucca extracts
2 oz. fish hydrolysates
¼ cup kelp meal
¼ cup chopped feed hay
Bacterial/Fungal Tea
1 ½ cups compost (worm)
1 ½ cups fungal compost
½ cup kelp meal
3 oz. liquid humates
3 oz. blackstrap molasses
3 oz. fish hydrolysates
½ cup greensand
½ cup chopped feed hay ¾ cup compost
¾ cup fungal compost
¼ cup kelp meal
2 oz. liquid humates
2 oz. blackstrap molasses
2 oz. fish hydrolysates
¼ cup greensand
¼ cup chopped feed hay
There are numerous recipes for tea you can custom blend one for specific or general needs. It is recommended to have a sample of your recipe analyzed and alter it accordingly. It is best to add all liquids to the water and combine dry ingredients in the filter bag. This will limit the need for any straining.
A "liquid nutrient solution" (marketed by the Soil Soup Co.) is available as a substitute for the molasses. Fish hydrolyzates or fish oils feed fungal groups, where as fish emulsions feed primarily bacterial groups. Chopped hay provides a food source for protozoa and certain plant extracts (yucca, comfrey and nettle) are also needed for fungal teas. When using plant extracts do not use any with a preservative (i.e. alcohol), as it will kill any beneficial organisms present in the tea.
If you decide to use compost tea in your garden and landscape, it is recommended that you not use commercial fertilizers for plant performance.
"Mycorrhizal Tea" is obtained by adding mycorrhizal fungi spores to the working brew. The spores will germinate within a few hours after being introduced into the tea solution.
http://www.caryinstitute.org/index.html good site and good group
FWIW. I'd probably leave out the Humics because of MM's observations. I do like using a light dose of cold processed seaweed, and am willing to trade off the little longer brewing time.
I'm wondering about the chopped hay. Anyone have any preferences? I can always get alfalfa meal, bermuda, and a few others locally. Then at Pet stores they have mini bales of Timothy and what they call Orchard grass. I can get fresh bermuda in my yard.
I like using nutritional [inactive] yeast flakes for the amino acids, and it's loaded with B vitamins. No stink like fish products. -granger
______________________
Compost Tea Brew Recipes
In essence, compost tea is not a fertilizer though there are nutrients available in a finished brew. Tea contains beneficial organisms needed to revitalize soil and reestablish a microcosm of bacterial and fungal groups. These groups make available nutrients needed by plants to maintain healthy growth and suppress disease. You may choose to customize your tea to be more bacterial or fungal-based, or have both microbial populations well represented in your finished tea. Using a well-balanced combination allows you to adopt a plant care regimen of enhancing plant growth and, at the same time, suppressing disease pathogens.
The recipes given are for 25 gallons of tea, with an alternate amount in red for 5 gallon brews. [Do the math or click link-granger]
Bacterial Tea
3 cups compost (worm)
½ cup kelp meal
3 oz. blackstrap molasses
3 oz. fruit juice (apple)
½ cup chopped feed hay
3 oz. fish emulsion 1 ½ cups compost
¼ cup kelp meal
2 oz. blackstrap molasses
2 oz. fruit juice (apple)
¼ cup chopped feed hay
1 oz. fish emulsion
Fungal Tea
3 cups fungal compost
3 oz. liquid humates
3 oz. blackstrap molasses
3 oz. yucca extracts (high saponyn)
3 oz. fish hydrolysates (oils)
½ cup kelp meal
½ cup chopped feed hay 1 ½ cups fungal compost
2 oz. liquid humates
2 oz. blackstrap molasses
1 oz. yucca extracts
2 oz. fish hydrolysates
¼ cup kelp meal
¼ cup chopped feed hay
Bacterial/Fungal Tea
1 ½ cups compost (worm)
1 ½ cups fungal compost
½ cup kelp meal
3 oz. liquid humates
3 oz. blackstrap molasses
3 oz. fish hydrolysates
½ cup greensand
½ cup chopped feed hay ¾ cup compost
¾ cup fungal compost
¼ cup kelp meal
2 oz. liquid humates
2 oz. blackstrap molasses
2 oz. fish hydrolysates
¼ cup greensand
¼ cup chopped feed hay
There are numerous recipes for tea you can custom blend one for specific or general needs. It is recommended to have a sample of your recipe analyzed and alter it accordingly. It is best to add all liquids to the water and combine dry ingredients in the filter bag. This will limit the need for any straining.
A "liquid nutrient solution" (marketed by the Soil Soup Co.) is available as a substitute for the molasses. Fish hydrolyzates or fish oils feed fungal groups, where as fish emulsions feed primarily bacterial groups. Chopped hay provides a food source for protozoa and certain plant extracts (yucca, comfrey and nettle) are also needed for fungal teas. When using plant extracts do not use any with a preservative (i.e. alcohol), as it will kill any beneficial organisms present in the tea.
If you decide to use compost tea in your garden and landscape, it is recommended that you not use commercial fertilizers for plant performance.
"Mycorrhizal Tea" is obtained by adding mycorrhizal fungi spores to the working brew. The spores will germinate within a few hours after being introduced into the tea solution.
Before anyone believes this I just want to mention that in my opinion it is almost 100% bullshit
The real big give away of the ignorance of the author is the last paragraph. Endomycorrhizal spores will not germinate in compost tea. They germinate in response to proximity to roots.
Fish hydrolysate feeds both fungi and bacteria/archaea. I have been preaching this for years and finally SFI/Earthfort is now saying this as well.
The chopped hay is not a food source for protozoa. Rather the protozoa cysts and bacteria come in on the hay. Protozoa (at least the ones we want) eat bacteria/archaea.
This is the main point in making ACT at all. When the protozoa (flagellates & naked amoebae) eat bacteria/archaea they release
bio-available nutrients to the roots of plants.
ACT is not for the provision (directly) of nutrients so putting anything in ACT meant to directly 'feed' plants is mostly a wasted effort.
No offense to Granger. There is a plethora of misinformation on the web. It is a real pity that such an institution would be spewing such blather. I'm sure that they have expertise in other areas but this does not seem to be one of them.
A good way to tell truth from fiction (or information just passed along) = Do they have data? Do they have photos/video of the actual microorganisms?
Just a thought, but when you put a plant (male) with a complete rootsystem which is cleaned from dirt in the bucket during the brewing session.Would you expect then that the endomycorrhizal spores will germinate??
Keep on growing
Just a thought, but when you put a plant (male) with a complete rootsystem which is cleaned from dirt in the bucket during the brewing session.Would you expect then that the endomycorrhizal spores will germinate??
Keep on growing
Does a fish prefer driving a Ford or Chevy?
I was just wondering if this was ever investigated how to germinate endomycorrhizal spores if it ever survives in watery solutions like ACT.
Keep on growing
Keep on growing
I was just wondering if this was ever investigated how to germinate endomycorrhizal spores if it ever survives in watery solutions like ACT.
Keep on growing
I believe that there is an airlift technology applied to the laboratory production of Glomus Intraradices spores but I do not know the details.
Scrappy,
Having slept on it, and in the light of day, maybe I should explain something. I've been brewing ACT's for 4 or 5 years. During that time I've read all kinds of stuff on the web, and I used to work at a bookstore with Gardening being one of my sections. I have checked many books and read what they had on ACT. I've read the Soil Food Web site and many others. Lots of conflicting info out there. Much of is guess work. I will say that I have never brewed an ACT that my plants of all kinds didn't respond well to. I've used all kinds of ingredients, but I would like to fine tune it.
On this thread, unlike most, we have a shownuff consultant to pick the brain of. MM is someone actively involved in researching what really goes on during brew, and has the equipment to really see the results.
I posted the Cary article mainly because of what they said about the hay thing, and because of the thing about the "mycorhizal tea," which I knew was wrong. I "knew" it from multiple sources including MM. And the Cary Institute is a well respected outfit doing good work. I was interested in what MM and others would say about it.
I will continue to post such things in the interest of exchanging info, the purpose of sites like ICMag, and to run it by someone who isn't just guessing. If you don't like my posts, don't read them, but don't tell me to sit down and shutup. It's not your place, and it's bad form. -granger
Having slept on it, and in the light of day, maybe I should explain something. I've been brewing ACT's for 4 or 5 years. During that time I've read all kinds of stuff on the web, and I used to work at a bookstore with Gardening being one of my sections. I have checked many books and read what they had on ACT. I've read the Soil Food Web site and many others. Lots of conflicting info out there. Much of is guess work. I will say that I have never brewed an ACT that my plants of all kinds didn't respond well to. I've used all kinds of ingredients, but I would like to fine tune it.
On this thread, unlike most, we have a shownuff consultant to pick the brain of. MM is someone actively involved in researching what really goes on during brew, and has the equipment to really see the results.
I posted the Cary article mainly because of what they said about the hay thing, and because of the thing about the "mycorhizal tea," which I knew was wrong. I "knew" it from multiple sources including MM. And the Cary Institute is a well respected outfit doing good work. I was interested in what MM and others would say about it.
I will continue to post such things in the interest of exchanging info, the purpose of sites like ICMag, and to run it by someone who isn't just guessing. If you don't like my posts, don't read them, but don't tell me to sit down and shutup. It's not your place, and it's bad form. -granger
No worries. There was no argument and nobody holds the gospel. I just say what I see and I hate when others in a position of authority pass information without validation.
You should not have been negative repped. In future it might be good for you to state your opinion before hand rather than just saying 'good people' or something like that...think so?
MM,
Maybe I should be clearer. I think the Cary folks are good people doing good work, but their Tea info is like so much of what is available- word of mouth, heresay, intuition, etc.
On a lighter note, what effect does stirring/agitation have on our critter friends? I mix the tea, stir well, then usually leave it alone till just before I use it. I've mostly stopped using a bag for EWC, compost, oatmeal. Just dump it in. Sometimes I may add more MO during the brew if the pH gets up around 8 [starting with hard water, high alkalinity and pH 8.3-8.5] and stir it in. Does that hurt the herd, and does it hurt the herd if I stir just before applying? Thanks. -granger
Maybe I should be clearer. I think the Cary folks are good people doing good work, but their Tea info is like so much of what is available- word of mouth, heresay, intuition, etc.
On a lighter note, what effect does stirring/agitation have on our critter friends? I mix the tea, stir well, then usually leave it alone till just before I use it. I've mostly stopped using a bag for EWC, compost, oatmeal. Just dump it in. Sometimes I may add more MO during the brew if the pH gets up around 8 [starting with hard water, high alkalinity and pH 8.3-8.5] and stir it in. Does that hurt the herd, and does it hurt the herd if I stir just before applying? Thanks. -granger
Stirring does not hurt at all.
MM,
Good to know. Thanks. -granger
BTW- I once read that too much aeration "beat up" the microbes, so I tried a batch with only one air stone and my variable speed air pump turned down all the way. About 12 hours later, using my usual methods of assessment [smell, looks, pH], I concluded that this was crap. lol
Good to know. Thanks. -granger
BTW- I once read that too much aeration "beat up" the microbes, so I tried a batch with only one air stone and my variable speed air pump turned down all the way. About 12 hours later, using my usual methods of assessment [smell, looks, pH], I concluded that this was crap. lol
It is crap. More gems of knowledge 'filtered' from a statement from SFI I believe
