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J

jerry111165

Is it true that very fine air bubbles at a high intensity can "cut" fungal hyphae or assorted bacteria, or is that a bunch of hooey too?

I'm thinking that this might have been what Granger was referring to?

I'm sure it's a bunch of crap - just wondering. My bubbles are actually fairly large, but lots of it, via a homemade inline diffuser airlift setup.

J
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Is it true that very fine air bubbles at a high intensity can "cut" fungal hyphae or assorted bacteria, or is that a bunch of hooey too?

Absolute hooey! Well I guess unless you are talking air compressor blast or something.
 

Granger2

Active member
Veteran
Hgherluv,
I like a lid, sitting ajar. With air bubbling thru, you can't seal it unless at own risk, lol. You don't have to put a lid on, but there will be splatters all around the bucket without one. Have fun brewing. -granger
 
3

3gunpete

Just wanna say. Big ups to those of u keeping this going. Endless knowledge passed on thru the masses of our culture. This is truely what the internet was made for. Bravo
 

chief bigsmoke

Active member
found a useful chart

found a useful chart

Greetings everyone...

I found a helpful chart and info to share with you all. I always add a pinch of kelp and alfalfa meal to my microbe teas and now there is proof that it is beneficial...

Producing compost tea with or without aeration and nutrient additives greatly affected the total bacterial population density and proportion of the total population that was metabolically
active or culturable (Figure 1). This data set includes compost teas made from several sources of compost. These composts had different bacterial population densities (data not shown). This difference was responsible for the large range of bacterial populations in both NCT and ACT made without nutrient additives. Clearly, Fig. 1. The influence of aeration and nutrients additives during compost tea production on bacterial population measurements. NCT- not aerated, ACT- aerated.

attachment.php


When indicated, NCT and ACT made with nutrients including combinations of 0.12% w/v soluble kelp concentrate,
0.25% v/v humic acids, 0.30% glacial rock dust, or 0.5%,1.0%, and 1.5% v/v bacterial
nutrient solution (Soil Soup, Inc, Edmonds, WA). Active and total cells determined by direct
counting after staining with Fluorescein diacetate and DAPI, respectively. CFU determined
on 5% TSBA media with 100 ppm cycloheximide. Data from Scheuerell, 2002.
from: http://www.soilace.com/pdf/pon2004/5.Scheuerell.pdfh

see full pdf below :thank you:
 

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  • 5.Scheuerell.pdf
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Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Greetings everyone...

I found a helpful chart and info to share with you all. I always add a pinch of kelp and alfalfa meal to my microbe teas and now there is proof that it is beneficial...

from: http://www.soilace.com/pdf/pon2004/5.Scheuerell.pdfh

see full pdf below :thank you:

Please bear in mind that the attached paper is not a study. Rather it is just a paper written drawing on many sources. A similar paper might be written with an opposing trend.

Please do correct me if I am wrong. The bacterial counts were based on plate cultures (at least for the preponderance), there were no actual fungal nor protozoa counts. There was just a vague reference to a fungal foodstock (or similar wording). The effects on pythium control were supposedly based on utilizing a fungal tea however it was not established that there was fungi in the tea.

There was the use of the term 'molasses-based nutrient solutions' throughout. What is this? There appeared to be no indication that anyone tested each foodstock individually as to its efficacy as a foodstock. Instead there was only a mention that if it was included in the mix, such and such an effect was observed in the plants or soil.

One might gather from this that they may have had similar results just mixing up the foodstocks and applying it to the soil/plants. There is a passing mention of not having similar results without the brewing process but no specifics.

The information in the paper regarding the USDA tests run which showed E-coli could grow in ACT, were highly flawed IMO as the only way they got E-coli to grow was by inoculating with it.

I used to use humic acid in my compost teas and believed it acted as a fungal food in compost tea until I tested it via microscopy along with CT Guy over a period of about three days. We found that the humic acid appeared to feed nothing in a liquid. At the same time we discovered that kelpmeal does feed fungi in a liquid but it initially suppresses microbial growth. If you use kelpmeal (especially an extract/soluble form) be prepared to brew a little longer.

I believe Shwagg can attest to this as well.

I'm completely open to contrary microscopy observations so if someone has seen different, speak up.

It was at this time that I made CT Guy into a believer that molasses is a great fungal & bacterial/archaeal foodstock at typical rates.

Many people envy the fungal growth I get in my ACTs as shown in video and even in an SFI test.

I believe that Paul Stamets has long used black strap molasses as a fungal food.

I can give anecdotal evidence as well that ACT made with 'only' black strap molasses and compost beat back a severe erwinia infection.

So I'm not saying there is something wrong with using a bit of kelpmeal in ACT just be aware of its limiting factors pertaining to the actual microbial development. Also before announcing something as proof, be sure of what your resources are.

Did he mention alfalfa meal in the paper? I did not see this.
 

chief bigsmoke

Active member
the master has spoken.. :)

I was very interested to read your response mm. I would agree and all the points you brought up. priceless knowledge about kelp brew times and previous experience with ctguy. and no, they didn't talk about alflafa meal... I was simply making a reference to a compost tea with added "nutrients" to improve the overall mix. = tasty treats for microbial life. I'll be easy nxt time if i use the word proof.
 
C

CT Guy

Just to chime in and support what MM said. I no longer believe humic acids support microbial growth in teas (it was a long standing contention that it's a 'fungal food.'). I do add a very small amount of chelation benefits once applied, but wouldn't consider this a necessary addition.

I really like using organic alfalfa meal in my teas. I find it to be a good balanced food source and much cheaper than kelp. Molasses is excellent as well, though I find working with a liquid to be problematic for me in many instances so I use a dry food source (microbe catalyst) that is easier to measure.
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
The humic acid advice from yesteryear never made sense. Fulvic acid? Maybe but in the typical short-brew cycle of the AACT process? Pretty amazing compound, eh?

Dumb ol' me was taught that Humic acid was an integral part of ion exchange but golly gee - then it was about microbes? Seriously?
 

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
The humic acid advice from yesteryear never made sense. Fulvic acid? Maybe but in the typical short-brew cycle of the AACT process? Pretty amazing compound, eh?

Dumb ol' me was taught that Humic acid was an integral part of ion exchange but golly gee - then it was about microbes? Seriously?

Huh? Qu'est-ce que c'est?
 

ClackamasCootz

Expired
Veteran
I should have been more clear - I was talking about the 'urban legend' recipes that hit the gardening forums (all stripes).

Pretty soon came the bat guano, seabird guano, dolomite lime, greensand, Azomite, grape Nehi (to get the grape taste I guess), etc.

You know the drill!
 

Bodean

New member
Hi all!
My LST Blueberry outdoor was just lolipopped yesterday and today I noticed the telltale signs of flowering. I am using my own worm castings from red wigglers and coco coir with sphagnum and vermiculite. Until today I was feeding her leachate diluted.

My question is: I want to start feeding her Sugar Peak Flower. So I am aerating 24hrs, one gallon of water with one TSP of Sugar Peak and 1/2 cup of leachate to start. Is this a good idea to mix these two methods?
I am planning on increasing the strength of Sugar Peak after a couple weeks and continue the leachate combo. Am I adding to much? Will this be overkill?

Please give me advice.
Bodean
 
T

TribalSeeds

I added some guano to my tea and this time I dont see the big foam top. Is that to be expected?
 
C

CT Guy

I added some guano to my tea and this time I dont see the big foam top. Is that to be expected?

I wouldn't be concerned, as foam doesn't really tell you much. How did the tea smell? If it smells okay then you're probably fine. Personally, I would leave the guano out of the tea and just topdress with it or make a separate 'nutrient' tea.
 
C

CT Guy

Hi all!
My LST Blueberry outdoor was just lolipopped yesterday and today I noticed the telltale signs of flowering. I am using my own worm castings from red wigglers and coco coir with sphagnum and vermiculite. Until today I was feeding her leachate diluted.

My question is: I want to start feeding her Sugar Peak Flower. So I am aerating 24hrs, one gallon of water with one TSP of Sugar Peak and 1/2 cup of leachate to start. Is this a good idea to mix these two methods?
I am planning on increasing the strength of Sugar Peak after a couple weeks and continue the leachate combo. Am I adding to much? Will this be overkill?

Please give me advice.
Bodean

Keep in mind that leachate is different than aerated compost tea. Be careful that you're not overfeeding if you're using a lot of it, as it can be high in N depending on the composition of your compost pile.

I have no idea what sugar peak flower is. Wouldn't surprise me though if it's just molasses...
 

trichrider

Kiss My Ring
Veteran
It is possible to run a perpetual ‘brew’ but there will always be a down cycle where undesirable organisms dominate until the new [vermi]compost and foodstock kicks in (starts being consumed and the correct microbial groups begin multiplying again) and homeostasis is established. I have seen this down cycle persist for at least 24 hours.

could be why it takes 36 hrs. for a good population to develop(mo+fishhydrosolate, no other additives), or is it the size of the brewer?
i've put together a 50G brewer...
[URL="https://www.icmag.com/ic/picture.php?albumid=36811&pictureid=872616&1"]View Image[/URL]
it's got to be the dilution as i draw off tea and add water and nutrients. i'm curious as it's been working with only periodic cleaning and very little goop forming around the aerator (a sprinkler head) and the secondary airstone. good populations within 36 hours. bacteria, protazoa, flagellates, amoebae, and fungal hyphae.
wc and compost starter plug. well water.
and thanks for addressing my question so promptly.
it's made a world of difference in my gardens.

just to update somewhat...not an actual perpetual brew. have to stop to clean...
comparing this to sourdough bread was just ridiculous.
so just say no to perpetual ACT...i am just one of those guys who has to find out for himself.
grow on!:comfort:
 

Bodean

New member
Keep in mind that leachate is different than aerated compost tea. Be careful that you're not overfeeding if you're using a lot of it, as it can be high in N depending on the composition of your compost pile.

I have no idea what sugar peak flower is. Wouldn't surprise me though if it's just molasses...


Thanks for the heads up. I have been feeding in veg cycle at 1/2 cup of leachate per gallon once a week(no aeration). But now I'm diluting my leachate to 1/3 cup to 1-1/2 gallons water and using medium strength(2tsp) Sugar Peak Flowering which is a
- N2.00% -P4.00% -K5.00% I cut the aeration time to just a couple hours. Why aerate? I don't know, just seems healthy especially using a compound I never used before like Sugar Peak.
I may cut out the leachate altogether after week 3.

 

mapinguari

Member
Veteran
I have no idea what sugar peak flower is. Wouldn't surprise me though if it's just molasses...

FYI, it's from the makers of Earth Juice.

And you're about right: "Sugar Peak’s natural molasses, kelp, bat and fossilized guano based liquid formulations are easily adaptable to a variety of plant requirements and growing environments..."

Ever since I learned that the order of ingredients, apparently, does not indicate anything about the relative presence of the various things in the mix, I'm inclined to think it's mostly molasses.
 
C

CT Guy

Yeah, I figured. About 90% of the bottled organic nutrients are the same. It's really just the labels that change.

You can source all those ingredients for 1/10 of the cost and mix them up yourselves. Let me know if you're interested and I can be of any assistance.
 
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