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Tea Article

E

elmanito

At this moment the brew is still on after starting last night.I only use worm casting and palm sugar.I don't have the right microscope at this moment to see how it looks like in close up.

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Namaste :plant grow: :canabis:
 
Manivelle

Manivelle

Member
Veteran
it could be very useful if someone could put all information in one another tutorial . once for all .i'm not a native english person so i can't do that properly and i am too busy to do it helping and informing people about organic grow on a french cannaforum (and i have a lot of work and the fight is not easy.. :( ) .

thanks to everyone for sharing .
peace
mani
 
S

SeaMaiden

Um... I'm not so sure about that being the case. Compost tea, as I understand it, has a goal to inoculate soil/media with microbes, whereas feeding is to give nutrients, irrespective of the presence of microbes.
Manivelle said:
it could be very useful if someone could put all information in one another tutorial . once for all .i'm not a native english person so i can't do that properly and i am too busy to do it helping and informing people about organic grow on a french cannaforum (and i have a lot of work and the fight is not easy.. :( ) .

thanks to everyone for sharing .
peace
mani
Click to expand...
Here: http://microbeorganics.com/

It's in English, but everything is spelled properly with good grammar, so should translate fairly well. Scroll down the page to find links discussing compost tea.
 
Microbeman

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
ACT will provide nutrients in basically the same fashion as compost, however in a more instant form and not as long-lived. The advantage is that one can use less compost over a given area. Please read post # 1178 on this page.

As Seamaiden has mentioned, another attribute of ACT is to inoculate your soil with a microbial population. This can assist greatly with disease control and transition from chemical growing to natural. Some believe that the microbes in ACT populate leaf surfaces. Although I have anecdotal evidence of this, I have no science based evidence to support this assertion.
 
h.h.

h.h.

Active member
Veteran
"Air in a bucket" LOL
What can I say? While not as potent, it works, and has it's place.
Better yet, air in a half bucket doubles your water to surface ratio without any additional plumbing. It also doubles the air/water ratio.
Trying to wrap my head around the physics behind using a milk jug as far as pressures and air movement inside due to the top restriction as well further restriction from the foaming.
 
E

elmanito

Did start again, but this time with green compost, peat moss and palm sugar in a 2 liter can.I use a pump greenway airset 250 which gives 250 liter/hour.

Namaste :plant grow: :canabis:
 
John Deere

John Deere

Active member
Veteran
Question for the tea experts--why filter?

I assume one reason is to keep particulates out of pumps and sprayers. I also assume that bubbling under a suspended bag will give good aeration and mixing of the solids, theoretically maximizing the extraction of the good stuff. Anything else?

I'm a small scale personal grower. So far I'm only brewing basic EWC/molasses teas but will venture into adding other ingredients as needed later. Right now I'm making 1 G teas in an old watering can. I just dump my EWC and molasses in, mix it up and run a couple air hoses in, which have weights added to keep them near the bottom. I stir the mixture at least a few times over the 24+ hours that it's bubbling and mix it up good before using to get everything up into suspension so most of it pours out when I'm using it. My assumption is that the slurry will still have lots of beneficials so I might as well add it all, sort of like top dressing.

Did I miss anything? Thoughts?

Thanks in advance. I love this forum.

jd
 
Microbeman

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
John Deere said:
Question for the tea experts--why filter?

I assume one reason is to keep particulates out of pumps and sprayers. I also assume that bubbling under a suspended bag will give good aeration and mixing of the solids, theoretically maximizing the extraction of the good stuff. Anything else?

I'm a small scale personal grower. So far I'm only brewing basic EWC/molasses teas but will venture into adding other ingredients as needed later. Right now I'm making 1 G teas in an old watering can. I just dump my EWC and molasses in, mix it up and run a couple air hoses in, which have weights added to keep them near the bottom. I stir the mixture at least a few times over the 24+ hours that it's bubbling and mix it up good before using to get everything up into suspension so most of it pours out when I'm using it. My assumption is that the slurry will still have lots of beneficials so I might as well add it all, sort of like top dressing.

Did I miss anything? Thoughts?

Thanks in advance. I love this forum.

jd
Click to expand...

Check this for using only molasses

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=200274

and this for ACT timing

http://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?p=5003725#post5003725

You are correct about the reasons for filtering; plus if you are spraying on leaves it is better filtered.

Adding the full whammy to your soil is best, as you have surmised.
 
S

sox

New member
Is this recipe to much? im new at ACT...
1cup WC
1cup Alaska Humus
1cup N Guano
5Tbspn Molass
Brewed for 24-28hours....Water in once a week..

for Flower i would switch the N for P Guano...


Tell me if im wrong!
Thanks!!
 
G

gOurd^jr.

Active member
Sox, I used a very similar recipe back in my early days of growing and had fairly good results.
BUT After reading CTguy and MM telling new growers over and over again that Compost tea is NOT "fertilizer" in the classic sense, and you will get better results if you leave out the guano, I agree with them. I know they are sick of repeating themselves, so I'll just repeat themselves so they don't have to.
You will see improved results if you leave the Guano out of the brew and apply it seperately, as needed, for "fertilizer" (macro/micronutrients). The Compost Tea should be used only to provide a diversity of active microbes to your soil. The guano does not belong in the ACT.
WC, Alaska Humus, and Molasses are ALL you need for making awesome microbe tea. Adding more "goodies" will not really help your tea, it's just not how ACT works...The extra N/P in may in fact be detrimental to the microbes you want to cultivate in your ACT.
In fact you can just use either WC or the Alaska Humus, though both are good sources for diverse microbes and I would go ahead and use both if you got'em.
I've found Guanos best use is topdressed and then watered in, or mixed right into the soil before planting.

IF you insist on applying guano with your tea, which is SILLY, (you should listen to the advice of MM and CTGuy as they know ACT like few others do) then try adding it right before you apply the tea, AFTER the brewing cycle is over. This in theory will provide the diverse microbes from the ACT at the same time as the micro/macronutrients from the guano. This is how the Bountea guy, John Evans, applies his fertilizers and I do it that way sometimes too with great results actually. I usually do this when I want to apply fermented Yarrow flowers as my "fertilizer". I add this IMEDIATELY prior to application, AFTER the tea is thriving with a diverse population of microbes (usually mine looks best under the microscope at 24-40hrs brewing). I only do this during the middle of flowering when the plants respond best to bloom type (P/K) ferts. ANY other time and its only straight ACT with WC, garden soil (for it's diversity of microbes) and Molasses.
Though it SEEMS contradictory to MM and CTGuy's advice at first, adding guano/ferts to the tea, it is NOT BREWED with the tea, merely applied at the same time. Mr. Evans has many world records for giant(and delicious) vegetables so its hard to argue with that...
plus he might well be the one marketing the Alaska Humus you've got. He's from Palmer, AK If I recall.

Hopefully that is helpful and not too confusing for someone new to ACT such as yourself.

p.s. Microbeorganics.com is a treasure trove of info on ACT and WELL WORTH your time to read it through a couple times. plus it has a formula to calculate the amount of WC/Molasses depending on the size of your brew.
 
marian123

marian123

Member
Hi people , i am from Romania (44lat) and in my country don;t have at store guano N or fish emulsion to add at vegetative stage and i don;t know what will use for vegetative stage at this outdoor .

Now i have 2 plant outdoor in soil (hole with 150L soil mix each) and now feed only with water . My plants has 12 days old .

My soil mix contain :

65% BLACK PEAT
20% COCOS
15% PERLIT
10% WORM CASTING

1) Can i grow with only compost tea to all vegetative stage (60 days from now) without any amendment/nutrients ? Is probabbly to have some deficients in this case (N in special) or grow slowly ?
P.S I grow some heirloom tomatoes in this soil only with compost tea every week from 70 day ago and grow very good :) I understand cannabis is same a tomato at nutrients/NPK requirements .

2) Only avariable solution for give plant nutrients is Bio grow / AN iguano juice grow / bio vega from biocanna or add some manure in compost tea . If i use one from this can destroy beneficial bacteria from compost tea ? What can do in this case ? Use only nutrients or use only compost tea or use same ?

Thanks :tiphat:
 
Microbeman

Microbeman

The Logical Gardener
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Please read the recent posts I've put in this thread.

The main reason Mr Evans grows large vegetables is 24 hours of sunlight. I heard about this effect when I was a child in the 50s before anyone was using compost tea. If you add stuff at the end of a brew you may be smothering microbes. If you check with your microscope for changes after you add extra stuff and all is good then go for it. I quit adding stuff when I noticed a loss of 40% (approx) of my microbes after adding 5 gallons of fish hydrolysate to a 1200 gallon batch of finished ACT.
 
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