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Strange Slime buildup on roots

For 8 gallons I would use just 2 cups. i used 3 1/2 for my 18 gallon res. My DWC is not recirculating, I dont really see the point in having a recirculating system if your only running 1 to 4 tubs. When I change my water I just drop in a water pump with a hose into my bathtub and vice versa to refill it.
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
Dixie cups??? Are you serious? Yes, he/she gave you a real measurement.

1 cup = 240 ml = 8 fl oz = 1/2 pint (liq) = 16 tbsp = 48 tsp
 

00420

full time daddy
Veteran
post #204 Date 2-28-08
Hu$tle Tree$ do you use r/o? if so how new are your filters & how many stages? If the filter is not changed or replaced and cleaned, this breeds bacteria & algee's

if your going to run the buckets again id say give it a good cleaning and stick to a 100-100-200 n-p-k feeding no additives other then a root cleaner. keep your ppm as low as you can to not harm the plants. id do 20% water changes everyweek if you dont allready dump n add new, when setting up my fishtank i had this stuff really bad untell i learn more about it the key is super clean water going into the system from the get and make sure all the spores in the system are all dead befor starting. 7 stage r/o is the only way to go..... i have a r/o that i dont even use any more i buy all my water from a glacier vending machine it runs 2 uv lights and they keep dates of when there filters where changed.
i thought about the uv in the rez and yes i think it would work wonders it dose in reefing setup's the prob is there very spendy i allso think a proten skimmer is needed you should see the crap i get out of my tank that you could never see or think was even there 2 items used in aquarium use that hydro really never thought about...

im glad i steped into the saltwater thing i have learned so much more about water chem it is unbelevable. all take some pic's of what a proten skimmer is and dose along with some corol that i have and kept alive for 2yrs now try n think about keeping a plant alive for 2yrs in a hydro bucket :)

richyrich... did your r/o have UV? i bet the few ppl that did not get this stuff had a uv built into there r/o
sense i have used a 7 stage r/o {5 filter's +DI+UV} i have not had this crap

also..... using benny's should not be a prob with the UV in rez it dont kill off benny's or Purple/Pink Coralline Algae in the reef tank other why's reefer's whould not be using it either...
 
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richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
post #204 Date 2-28-08


richyrich... did your r/o have UV? i bet the few ppl that did not get this stuff had a uv built into there r/o
sense i have used a 7 stage r/o {5 filter's +DI+UV} i have not had this crap

also..... using benny's should not be a prob with the UV in rez it dont kill off benny's or Purple/Pink Coralline Algae in the reef tank other why's reefer's whould not be using it either...

No UV on my RO filter. I'm not 100% sure that a UV on the RO filter would be effective at killing spores. All the research I did and posted on this way back concluded that the spores pretty much live through anything; even the bombardment of UV radiation. The only options I have found effective once infected are UV in the rez to destroy the slime once it becomes active from its spore state and beneficial microbes as a combative measure.

I agree, benes should not be killed off with the use of a UV sterilizer; but only after the bene microbes have established a foothold in the hydro system. A lot of good information comes from the aquarium world. That is where I found most of my answers.
 

00420

full time daddy
Veteran
The only options I have found effective once infected are UV in the rez to destroy the slime once it becomes active from its spore state and beneficial microbes as a combative measure.

A lot of good information comes from the aquarium world. That is where I found most of my answers.

i have been slim free in a once slimed system by using glacier vending machine water {dual uv} with no uv in the rez I did toss the plants and cleaned with bleach.... even dish soap kill's everything as long as you dont add more & it dont have a breeding ground to start back up thats why your bene's are a "combative measure" it take's there breeding ground's { same in a reef tank thats why you use "live rock" not dry when starting} i been keeping salt tanks for about 7 yr's now thats why i posted when i first seen this thread.... uv in the rez is as much combative as the bene's but if u really want to rid it. kill it at the source like i said omost 2 yr's ago when i had a 3yr old slim free tank and hydro setup.....

i know the good info is in the reefing world

R/O IS USELESS WITHOUT UV.
 
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richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
I can only share my experiences, and I couldn't say for sure that I would have been able to avoid the slime by using UV. I already have it. And, reiderating a previous statement, from what I have researched, spores will basically survive on this planet if we were to be wiped off the face of the earth.

When I did begin to grow, I too, use to go to the Glacier vending machines and haul 5 gallon containers. I had no problems then. So, there could be something there. It's too late for me. Because, I too did try to go back to the machines thinking it was my source water and I got slimed. I think I tried every possible avenue. My suspected source of infection was from a gifted clone from an EZ Cloner. I should have been suspicious when I seen several empty gallon containers of SuperOxy at this person site. I was a newbie and knew no better yet. That is my experience. Not knocking UV down. Just too late for me IMO. Probably a good preventative measure for one who has not been slimed.

You have shared that you were infected and have resolved it by using the machine water. That sounds promising. I am sure someone here will do the same and, hopefully, share the results.
 

00420

full time daddy
Veteran
I can only share my experiences, and I couldn't say for sure that I would have been able to avoid the slime by using UV. I already have it. And, reiderating a previous statement, from what I have researched, spores will basically survive on this planet if we were to be wiped off the face of the earth.

When I did begin to grow, I too, use to go to the Glacier vending machines and haul 5 gallon containers. I had no problems then. So, there could be something there. It's too late for me. Because, I too did try to go back to the machines thinking it was my source water and I got slimed. I think I tried every possible avenue. My suspected source of infection was from a gifted clone from an EZ Cloner. I should have been suspicious when I seen several empty gallon containers of SuperOxy at this person site. I was a newbie and knew no better yet. That is my experience. Not knocking UV down. Just too late for me IMO. Probably a good preventative measure for one who has not been slimed.

You have shared that you were infected and have resolved it by using the machine water. That sounds promising. I am sure someone here will do the same and, hopefully, share the results.

when you went back to use the machine did you clean your system with tap water? im guessing ppl are cleaning with bleach/phoyson20 then washing it away adding new spore's from the tap water being used to clean.... this in turn makes your uv/ro and system water reinfected.....

i was reinfected by a clone from a friend to.... lucky me it was put in it's own system and not the main.....
 
Two clone runs with the EWC tea and got this clear slime shit on my clones thats whiping them out.. never seen it before..

almost looks like a super thick opaque cloning gel or something? what gives.. odd

Only dipping them into olivias, throwing into the cloner, with ewc tea added ph'd at 6.. ro water of course
 
First time cloning in a 8 gal aero rainforest system, Im using an ewc only 1 cup per 8 gallons and not dixie cups haha, some botanicare power cloner and tap water. Just had my first roots the other day after 7 days of some Chimera grapefruit x Blueberry with 100% success, and just threw in bunch of my Jamaican Jam.
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
when you went back to use the machine did you clean your system with tap water? im guessing ppl are cleaning with bleach/phoyson20 then washing it away adding new spore's from the tap water being used to clean.... this in turn makes your uv/ro and system water reinfected.....

i was reinfected by a clone from a friend to.... lucky me it was put in it's own system and not the main.....

Quite possible. I always clean with tap since so much is needed. For me, I feel kinda burnt out from all the experimenting. Even though I have one small hydro set up running for kicks, I really dig DTW coco. Don't have to worry about any of this stuff and still get the quick hydro like growth.

I don't think it's too much to get a good UV light addition to my RO unit. Who knows, I may incorporate it later.
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
Two clone runs with the EWC tea and got this clear slime shit on my clones thats whiping them out.. never seen it before..

almost looks like a super thick opaque cloning gel or something? what gives.. odd

Only dipping them into olivias, throwing into the cloner, with ewc tea added ph'd at 6.. ro water of course

Not sure what to tell you. Look over everything and try one more time, then report.
 

00420

full time daddy
Veteran
Organism Killing Dose of UV light
(Microwatt seconds per square centimeter)
Viruses 15,000
Bacteria 15,000 - 30,000
Algae 22,000 - 30,000
Fungi 45,000
Protozoa 90,000


what does a UV sterilizer do?

A UV sterilizer is used to control infections by stopping the spread of microorganisms from one fish/coral/invertebrate to another through the water. It is also used in pond applications to control free-floating algae. When operated correctly, free-floating microorganisms will be killed by the UV light. Note that the organisms must be in the water that flows to the UV sterilizer. The UV light has no residual effect and will not kill organisms attached to fish (e.g., adult stage of ich) or rocks (e.g., algae).

How do UV sterilizers work?

The UV sterilizer utilizes a germicidal fluorescent lamp that produces light at a wavelength of approximately 254 nanometers (2537 Angstroms). The water with the bacteria/algae passes over the bulb (or around the bulb if a quartz sleeve is used) and is irradiated with this wavelength. As the light penetrates the bacteria/algae, it mutates the DNA (genetic material), preventing growth/multiplication of the organism.

What factors influence the effectiveness of UV sterilizers?

Size and type of organism: Theoretically UV radiation can kill viruses, bacteria, algae, and protozoa. In general, larger organisms, such as protozoa, require a higher dose of UV radiation than smaller organisms, such as bacteria. But there are also differences between various organisms of the same type: some bacteria are more resistant to UV radiation than others.

Power of bulb: The amount of UV light produced by the bulb is reflected in the wattage of the bulb. Bulbs with a higher wattage produce more UV light. The ability of the germicidal fluorescent lamp to produce UV light decreases with age, and in most cases, the bulb needs replacement every 6 months. UV light is best produced at temperatures of 104-110ºF; cooler temperatures will result in less output.

UV penetration: If the UV light can not penetrate the water, it will not be effective. Higher water turbidity will decrease penetration. UV sterilizers should be placed after the biological and mechanical filters so the water is as clear as possible when it enters the sterilizer. Salinity also affects penetration; UV light penetrates freshwater better than saltwater. Finally, cleanliness of the lamp or sleeve is important. If a film or mineral deposit covers the lamp or sleeve, the light will be partially or totally blocked. The distance of the lamp from the water also influences the effectiveness. UV light will only penetrate clear saltwater to a depth of 5mm.

Contact time: The longer the amount of time the water is being exposed to the UV light, the more killing power is available. The contact time, sometimes referred to as "dwell time," is influenced by flow rate of the water: slower flow rates increase contact time. The length of the bulb also affects the contact time; with a longer bulb, the water is in contact with the UV light for a longer period of time. Another variable to consider is the turnover time (amount of time required to have the entire volume of water in the aquarium pass through the sterilizer). Since the "sterilized" water constantly mixes with the water in the aquarium as it returns, it is impossible to "sterilize" all the water in the aquarium. That would only be possible if all the water would be removed, sterilized, and then returned to the aquarium at one time. This may result in sterilized water, but would certainly raise havoc with the aquarium inhabitants! Calculating turnover time is mathematically difficult, but can be approximated with the following formula:

9.2 x gallons in tank = number of hours for one turnover
flow rate in gallons per hour
* Temperature: UV light is best produced at temperatures of 104-110ºF; cooler temperatures will result in less output. Quartz sleeves help to insulate the bulb from the cooler aquarium water and thus maintain a higher UV output.

In which types of systems should UV sterilizers be used and what are the benefits?

A UV sterilizer may be used in any aquarium, however, in smaller aquariums (less than 24 gallons), the cost of the unit may make it impractical. UV sterilizers are most helpful in multiple tank systems that share a common filter. In a single tank system, they are beneficial in controlling the spread of an infectious disease if one occurs. This is especially true in heavily stocked tanks and those with large amounts of live rock and corals that could make catching and isolating a diseased fish difficult, or the use of certain medications contraindicated. Disease control is especially important when adding new fish to an established aquarium, since 98% of the hobbyists do not use a quarantine aquarium.

In ponds, UV sterilizers are one of the best ways to control free-floating algae, allowing the pond owner to see and enjoy the fish. The UV sterilizer will also kill free-floating bacteria in the pond water.

What are the limitations and potentially harmful side effects of UV sterilizers?

UV sterilizers are NOT a replacement for good biological and mechanical filtration, regular water changes, and proper control of the nitrogen cycle.
UV sterilizers are NOT a replacement for good biological and mechanical filtration, regular water changes, and proper control of the nitrogen cycle. A UV sterilizer should be considered as an insurance policy.

UV sterilizers will be ineffective against string algae or other nuisance or disease-causing organisms that are not free swimming in the water.

While the UV sterilizer will usually do no harm, it should not be used when first cycling the aquarium, as it may kill beneficial bacteria before they attach to the bio-media or gravel.

Many medications can be "denatured" by the UV light, so the sterilizer should be turned off when using medications, especially chelated copper treatments. The UV light will "break" the bond of the chelating agent, and the aquarium will have a sudden, lethal concentration of ionic copper.

The UV sterilizer can be used to control parasites, but the flow rate required is so slow that it is somewhat impractical on larger aquariums, unless larger (40W+) UV systems are used.

UV sterilizers can heat the water as it passes through, especially if the unit is larger than necessary for the tank size. A chiller may be necessary to keep the aquarium water at the appropriate temperature.

What styles of UV sterilizers are available?

The styles of UV sterilizers relate to their orientation when in use (horizontal or vertical) or their position in the water flow (in-line or hang-on). All vertical units must be used vertically, while some of the horizontal (Rainbow) units can be used vertically as well as horizontally. Some styles can be used in-line or hung on the back of the tank. Specialized units are designed to be used in outdoor/pond applications.

A newer style of UV sterilizer, called the "double helix," increases the contact time between the water and the UV light because the water makes a double spiral pass over the tube.

Models may or may not have a quartz sleeve. Those with a sleeve are sometimes called "dry bulbs." Cold water systems must have a quartz sleeve to maintain the proper output of UV light. A sleeve makes periodic cleaning and bulb replacement easier.

According to Robert Fenner, a well-known aquarist, author, and speaker, features of a good UV sterilizer include:

* A separate (remote) ballast unit that can be positioned in a place free of heat and water damage
* An indicator light to check for "on" operation
* An "automatic on" feature to turn the UV unit back on in the event of a temporary power loss
* Couplings that are easily fitted to your system
* A quartz or teflon sleeve at little or no additional cost
* All noncorrosive water-contact surfaces
* Acceptable guarantees and warranties

How is the correct size of a UV sterilizer determined?

This is about the only "complicated" part to the use of a sterilizer. For proper use, the UV sterilizer must be matched to the proper flow rate to ensure an efficient "kill dose" for the organisms you wish to eliminate. This flow rate must be matched to the size of the aquarium to ensure the proper number of "turn-overs" of the water. Most manufacturers will provide a table that recommends the maximum aquarium size and appropriate flow rate for each model they make. When comparing manufacturers, realize ratings may differ as to whether they take into account:

* Bulb efficiency: Some use 100% efficiency, others a lower efficiency (e.g., 60% observed towards the end of the bulb life)
* Organism to be killed: Bacteria/algae or protozoa
* Water clarity: Clear or turbid
* Transmission loss through the quartz sleeve

These differences make it very difficult to provide general rules of thumb. Check with the manufacturer if you are unsure on how the ratings are calculated.

Manufacturer/Model Watts Maximum Gallons Maximum Flow Rate
Aqua Ultraviolet 15 500 700
Angstrom 2537 30 500 750
Double Helix 36 500 500
Emperor Aquatics 65 400 952
Emperor Aquatics 80 400 1049
The table at the right compares several manufacturer's recommendations, which vary considerably. The wattage recommended by Emperor Aquatics are dramatically higher because they apply a 0.45 absorption coefficient factor for water clarity, factor in a 20% transmittance reduction for the quartz sleeve into the formula, and represent the lamp's operating performance when new and at the end of useful life (60%). This compensates for loss of UV radiation traveling through turbid green water and the sleeve's glass, while also taking into account lower efficiencies of older bulbs.

How is a UV sterilizer installed?

The UV sterilizer should be the last piece of equipment in the system before the water is returned to the aquarium. It should be preceded by the biological and mechanical filters, and any chemical filter or heat exchanger in the system. Follow the manufacturer's directions on installation. Most units use hose barb connectors to attach to the appropriate water pump or are designed to allow add-on connectors as a PVC slip fit or hose barb attachment.

What is the proper maintenance schedule for UV sterilizers?

The quartz sleeve will need to be checked monthly and removed and cleaned with rubbing alcohol. Some larger UV sterilizers have wiper mechanism units installed for easier maintenance.

For most units, the UV bulb will need to be replaced after 6 months of continuous use, however, this time may vary so be sure to follow the manufacturer's recommendations. When installing or changing a bulb, never look directly at the bulb when the unit is turned on. Doing so can result in permanent damage to your eyes. (The damage can occur without you feeling any discomfort.)

Always disconnect the unit from the electricity when performing maintenance to protect against possible shock. When turned on, the bulb becomes especially hot when in the air and submerging it in water may cause it to break.
 
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00420

full time daddy
Veteran
going on another run without ewc tea.. just aquashield and ro water.. no cloning gel, nothing

if the r/o you use don't have UV as one of the stage's it is useless also the bacteria is in your system you need to kill it be for you run again, bleach will do it as long as u don't use infected water to clean. the spore's will regroup and take over again if you dont get them all......
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
The point of using the EWC Tea is to harness the beneficial bacteria to out compete and fend off the brown slime (algae) that is already present. I believe the amount of spores that might be present after cleaning a system with tap water or non-uv ro water would be trivial compared to the army of benes that are being used in the EWC Tea; that is the whole point of using them if not going the sterile route. And it has worked for me several times over and others here.
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
Pythium is almost impossible to 100% eradicate from an infected system; this involves starting completely over (with new parents, containers, equipment, etc). It is probably present even if you don't know it - just waiting for its chance to get in.

As said about root rot in the quote, the same applies to this dreaded brown slime (algae).
 

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
Bacteria slime and cloudy reservoirs
Bacteria can make the water cloudy, but tend to produce more of a slime or jellylike, smelly mass in the system.If you have it, you will notice slimy reservoir walls and perhaps an oily slick on the water. Another symptom can be a foamy buildup in the reservoir. If left to their own devices, these bacterial growths will smother the roots, depriving them of oxygen. Some species of anaerobic bacteria thrive in an environment deprived of oxygen and can produce chemical metabolites, such as alcohols, aldehydes, phenols and ethylene, that are toxic to plant roots and to other microorganisms.

Other symptoms of bacterial infections can be fuzzy, cotton like growths, or the growth of fur. Just in case you are wondering, that white fuzzy growth you see at the tip of your roots is desireable. That is not bacteria - That is the good stuff - you should see tiny fine white hairs at thje roots.

All of these nasties require organic matter to feed on. They may be there as the result of a buildup of dead roots and leaves in the root zone, but usually they are the result of adding an organic product to the reservoir. If the conditions are just right, the bacteria will begin to thrive.

One option is to use no organic additives at all and to rely strictly on chemical nutrients based on fertilizer salts. We think a better choice is to continue using organic material, but also using an enzymatic addtive like Hygrozyme that will break down the unwanted organic matter in the reservoir . If you would like to use additives such as bat guano, compost or fish-based products, you might consider run to waste instead of a recirculating system.

This is one of the worst things you can do if you are infected; the use of an enzyme. I read this exact article and tried it long ago, and that is how I found out enzymes are jet fuel for brown slime (algae). It has been reported by others here, too.

This one article that has been copied and pasted is bad advice and a terrible contradiction:

"All of these nasties require organic matter to feed on."
". . . also using an enzymatic additive like Hygrozyme that will break down the unwanted organic matter in the reservoir."

The problem is that the enzyme breaks down the organic matter and it is still organic matter! Jet fuel for those of us who have experienced it.
 

00420

full time daddy
Veteran
As said about root rot in the quote, the same applies to this dreaded brown slime (algae).

This is one of the worst things you can do if you are infected; the use of an enzyme. I read this exact article and tried it long ago, and that is how I found out enzymes are jet fuel for brown slime (algae). It has been reported by others here, too.

This one article that has been copied and pasted is bad advice and a terrible contradiction:

"All of these nasties require organic matter to feed on."
". . . also using an enzymatic additive like Hygrozyme that will break down the unwanted organic matter in the reservoir."

The problem is that the enzyme breaks down the organic matter and it is still organic matter! Jet fuel for those of us who have experienced it.

your right ... that was not to be posted yet... i was gonna criticize some of it but there is some good info there as well

Introduction to the Root Zone


Plant roots are arguably the most important part of a plant, and are also one of the most easily damaged. Root problems and disease are the most common source of problems for growers. If you want to maximize the the health and ultimate yield of your plants, it is wise to have a clear picture of the crucial activites going on at the root zone.

Roots are made up of tough, fibrous tissues containing cellulose, hemicellulose, and lignin which branch into the soil mass (or grow media,) anchoring a plant firmly. Their basic functions are critical for plant survival: they absorb water, oxygen and minerals, and they conduct these to where they are needed. With a strong and healthy root zone, plants are able to access what they need for vigourous growth. Without a healthy root system, your plants are doomed to be weak and spineless, or even worse, dead.

A healthy root zone is a continuously growing one. In many plants this cycle includes the natural death of older roots and the production of new ones. This cycle of death and regeneration is often mistaken by growers as a sign of disease, but so long as there are new roots developing, some root death should not be a concern.

Root Zone Health and Color
A young plant root system should have lots of white furry root tips everwhere. A healthy mature root system will be strong and fiborous and will have a thick root mat. If the roots are cream or yellow on top of the mat, they should still have many white root tips underneath at the bottom.

Thick, fat, white furry roots are what you most want to see - they are absolutely indicative of healthy root growth. Be aware however that the color of a nutrient solution will stain the roots, turning them yellow or brown. This is also true of many nutrient additives. Older, more mature plants will have a darker cream-colored root system, and some plants just tend to have a natural color pigment.

Root Zone Temperature
The temperature of the root zone and the temperature of the nutrient solution can have a major effect on the healthy growth and appearance of the root system. In general the temperature should be between 68 and 72 degrees farenheit. Colder or warmer conditions can cause poor and stunted root growth, as the roots don't want to grow into the unhospitable nutrient solution. Major root death can occur in even brief periods of cold or heat stress. Poor temperature conditions leave the door open to root disease.

Oxygen at the Root Zone
Lack of oxygen at the root zone is the leading cause of root death. Roots NEED oxygen. Roots should never sit in stagnant or ponding nutrient solution - make sure the trays are tilted and supported to drain completely. Lack of oxygen can also be caused by decomposing organic material in the nutrient solution or trays - this material should always be removed. . Another problem can be too many plants competing for too little oxygen. These problems are worsened by high root zone temperatures.

Nutrient reservoirs should always be aerated by and air pump and air stone. You can never have too much oxygen, so the more and stronger air pumps used, the better. We have had great succes adding air stones to the growing trays themselves, to supplement the root zone area with addtional oxygen. Some growers use H202 to add additional oxygen, as well.

EC/ TDS & pH
A nutrient strength level that is too high can be toxic to the root zone and will cause poor and stunted growth. At extreme levels, a too high level will cause actual death in the root zone. It is best to increase nutrient levels gradually over time rather than suddenly and all at once.


Root-Microbe Symbiosis
The root zone of a plant is buzzing with life-essential processes of incredible complexity. This zone of intensive activity is called the rhizosphere. The root itself makes up part of the rhizosphere (the endorhizosphere), while the root hairs, mucigel, and root cells that have sloughed off constitute the ectorhizosphere.

The plant actually grows its own garden of microbes, along the root surfaces. To do this, the light energy captured from photosynthesis in the leaves is channeled down the stem through the phloem vessels and out through epidermal cells to the external root surface. Incredibly, up to 80% of the total plant energy--but usually 12 to 40%--is exuded as mucigel into the ectorhizosphere as carbohydrates, amino acids, and other energy-rich compounds. As the roots grow, the roots slough off dead cells which form a slimy covering and help the roots to slide easily as they grow. This slime is a food source for many millions of beneficial microbes. This food doesn't stay around long. Billions of bacteria, fungi, algae, actinomycetes, protozoa, and other microbes feed upon this exudate.

Those Phenomenal Mycorrhizae
Especially important are the mycorrhizal fungi which extend their thread-like hyphae from inside cortex cells out into the soil for several millimeters. They extend the feeding volume of the root by 10 to 1,000 times or more for most plant species (the cabbage family being a notable exception), and extract and carry nutrients back to the root. So important are they that scientists sometimes call the root zone the mycorrhizosphere. Pine trees will hardly grow without these fungi. There are two types- ectomycorrhiza and endomycorrhiza. Ectomycorrhiza are found in association with forest trees such as pines, eucalyptus and dipterocarps, while endomycorrhizal associations are formed in horticultural, forest and agronomic crops

Feeding On Exudate
In return for the release of nutritional substances from plant roots, microbes themselves produce chemicals that stimulate plant growth or protect the plant from attack. These substances include auxins, enzymes, vitamins, amino acids, indoles and antibiotics. These complex molecules are able to pass from the soil into plant cells and be transported to other parts of the plant, with minimal change to chemical structure, where they can stimulate plant growth and enhance plant reproduction. They may also play a role in enhancing the nutritional composition of the plant. The types of molecules released are specific for a variety of plants grown under certain conditions, forming in effect a unique chemical signature. As these molecules are released into the rhizosphere, they serve as food and growth stimulants for a certain mix of microbes.

i had to read this twice......

The USDA Agricultural Research Service, and other scientists have shown that for each plant species, this characteristic chemical soup stimulates the development of a select, beneficial company of root-dwelling microbes. This microbial population colonizes the root zone, producing certain chemicals that inhibit the growth of pathogenic species. These organisms are also instrumental in supplying the plant’s unique nutritional needs .


so am i understanding this right....? :fsu:

The rhizosphere is always functioning for the plant whether it is growing in a field, in a pot, in a hydroponic media, or even in a lake or ocean. The details of function may differ somewhat, but the principles are the same in order for the plant to survive.


Some of the main Beneficials at the Root Zone


Bacillus
Several varieties of Bacillus (i.e Bacillus megaterium) have been found to play a role in the conversion of unavailable forms of phosphates into plant available forms. In natural settings they can provide near 10% of the available phosphorous in the soil solution. With increased levels of plant available phosphorous, Bacillus strains become less effective. However, if the Bacillus can sustain as a back up it may continue to provide hungry blooms with phosphorous if it should become otherwise unavailable or “locked out”. This bacterium is of special interest to organic farmers who incorporate rock phosphate into the growing medium or if introduced through fertilizer teas, preparations, etc. Rock phosphate tends to be mostly unavailable, breaking down into plant available forms over time.

Certain forms of Bacillus are known to inhibit pythium and other pathogens. One of these is bacillus subtilis and is found in Hydroguard .
so we are feeding pythium/pathogens to are plant's.... nice

Mychorhizal Fung
Mycorrhizal fungi are especially effective in providing nutrients to plant roots. These are certain types of fungi that actually colonize the outer cells of plant roots, but also extend long fungal threads, or hyphae, far out into the rhizosphere, forming a critical link between the plant roots and the soil. Mycorrhizae produce enzymes that decompose organic matter, solubilize phosphorus and other nutrients from inorganic rock, and convert nitrogen into plant available forms. They also greatly expand the soil area from which the plant can absorb water. In return for this activity, mycorrhizae obtain valuable carbon and other nutrients from the plant roots. This is a win-win mutualism between both partners, with the plant providing food for the fungus and the fungus providing both nutrients and water to the plant. The importance of mycorrhizae in plant productivity and health has often been overlooked.It has been well documented that mycorrhizal plants are often more competitive and better able to tolerate environmental stress.Mycorrhizal technology has likewise made possible the production of inoculants to significantly improve the survival, growth and establishment of trees and crops. thats just what i want.... more organic matter :yes:

M y•cor•rhi•zal - The symbiotic association of the mycelium of a fungus with the roots of a seed plant.

Nitrosomonas Bacteria
Species of aerobic bacteria which converts ammonia to nitrite. One of the critical bacteria in nitrogen cycle. Optimum pH range between 6.0 and 9.0, temperature 10oC - 34oC. Will acclimate to changes in water quality, but activity is reduced during acclimation which can lead to a build up of ammonia.
Nitrosomonas eat ammonia, they absolutely LOVE it. They Convert plant available ammonium (NH4) to unavailable nitrite (NO2).

Nitrobacteria
These bacteria convert the nitrite (NO2) resulting from the nitrification above into nitrate (NO3-), an important form of Nitrogen that all plants need.

Streptomyces
Bacteria that secrete a variety of compounds including antibiotics that prevent and control root zone pathogens. A closely related species of Streptomyces produces the antibiotic that we use, streptomycin. Many studies demonstrate the bacteria’s effectiveness at controlling root diseases, and select foliar diseases. An interesting consideration noted in one study is that they will also reduce levels of some nitrogen fixing bacteria in the soil.
so is this the stuff to add?

Trichoderma
Some species of fungi that parasitize other fungi, such as Trichoderma, have been observed physically attacking and destroying pathogenic fungi. Strains of Trichoderma are found naturally occurring in many soils can play a role in the prevention and control of root pathogens, ultimately providing a healthier soil environment which can lead to higher yields. Some research suggests that the proteins in Trichoderma can degrade chitin, which is a structural component found in pathogenic fungi such as powdery mildew and in insects.
or this stuff maybe this is why ppl with coco dont have a prob read the next line

Some innovative propagation materials are inoculated with strains of Trichoderma.Many forms of coco coir contain it naturally. CANNA's Coco Growing Media is innoculated with it. If a healthy root environment is maintained, the bacteria will continue to colonize the roots and multiply in the growing media. The trichoderma help to form a protective layer around the root system, helping to fend off invading pathogens, etc.

Root Health and Pathogen Control

In hydroponics we can promote a plant's rhizosphere capability by insuring it has the proper minerals, as well as a well aerated root zone to allow for good air and water movement . We also suggest using an organic amendment like Liquid Karma as well as a general enzymatic product like Hygrozyme or SensiZym from Advanced Nutrients that will encourage the proliferation of healthy rhizosphere microbes. You may also wish to use a root stimulator / stress reliever like CANNA Rhizotonic. It is a powerful, organic stress-reliever which stimulates new root development, increases resistance against disease and improves the vigour of plants.

really.....? maybe this guy just dont know wtf he is talking about?

Most root pathogens seem to be opportunistic -that is, they take advantage of weak and/or damaged roots. Thus the best defense is to keep roots healthy in the first place. In the beginning of this FAQ we went over some of the basics, those being temperature and oxygenation. We can also add a silica to the nutrient solution such as Silica Blast. Silica has been shown to greatly reduce plant death, root decay and yield losses caused by root disease. It does this by fortifying plant tissues against attack. The disease may still be present, but it is not able to do damage.

shit my slime loved dead and live root's hey, let's add some silica... are you for real? .......

It has been found by numerous studies that plant roots colonized by a mixture of different bacterial and fungal species, are far more resistant to pathogenic attack. Mycorrhizal fungi form an impenetrable physical barrier on the surface of plant roots, varying in thickness, density and fungal species, according to the plant species, plant health and soil conditions. Ideally the beneficial microbes out-compete pathogenic species and form a protective layer on the surface of living plant roots. In soil it is usually only when the beneficial species of bacteria and fungi are killed by continuous soil disturbance and toxic chemicals that pathogenic species have an advantage.

Using Good Microbes to fight the Bad Ones
yeah but earlyer they said the good one's have the bad one in it... so how is this even a option

There are a slew of new beneficial microbial products on the market, and they have a variety of effects ranging from breaking down nitrogen into useable forms to cleaning the roots to warding off negative microbiological pathogens. These good microbes also activate, enrich and stimulate the roots - they help to create beautiful fuzzy white root growth like you have never seen before.

The new array of products on the market can be confusing an misleading. products that we are familiar with and have personal experience with. Here are some of what we think are best.

Earth Ambrosia / Earth Nectar: a two-part mycorrhizal fungi innoculant - in liquid form

Down to earth mycorrhizal root innoculant: in powdered form for soil or coco

Piranha Piranha colonizes the root zone with 26 beneficial fungi (in powder form for hydro)

Tarrantula Bacterial blend of 57 microorganisms, with 1.4 billion Colony Forming Units per gram

Voodoo juice Liquid solution consisting of five strains of bacterial microbes, one is a nitrogen fixer

Botanicare Hydroguard Water treatment and pathogen supressor made of four benefical bacteria: Bacillus subtilis, Paenibacillus polymxa, Bacillus circulans, and Bacillus amyloliquefaciens. again..... earlyer it was said bacillus has bad bacteria?

The Other Route: Keeping the Reservoir Sterile
this is my why to go...
Some would argue that one of the strengths of hydroponics is its sterile environment, and the notion of exposing growing systems to bacterial and fungal organisms would be self-defeating, if not sacrilegious. These growers rely on sterile growing environments, strong disinfectants and a product like SM-90. Another option is Hydrogen Peroxide. Each of these offer their own protection and benefits. But NEITHER SM-90 or Hydrogen Peroxide works well with organic aditives in the reservoir. They do not work well together and SM-90 has also been known to react poorly with Superthrive.

In a sterile growing environment, your goal is to have a super clean reservoir. This is harder than it sounds. Folks who have been growing in the same area with the same equipment for years might find that they are suddenly having root problems when they never had them before. Or a new grower might begin having problems right from the beginning.
if you build it they will come the source came from some where

Keeping your reservoir totally sterile can work very well, but once you get a population of icky badness it will keep coming back again and again. Some pathogens such as pythium are almost impossible to get rid of completelely. No matter how many times you sterilize everything with a bleach solution, the problem returns. It can get very frustrating and expensive to constanly be battling. More and more innovative growers are moving toward a more wholistic approach of using good microbes in the reservoir.
maybe cuz there using the same water source & or additive's?

Root Rot and Pythium

"Root rot" is a generic name for several common opportunistic waterborne diseases that can seriously affect indoor and outdoor crops year round. "Pythium" is the name of one of these diseases and is also used as a generic term for several different root rot and stem rot fungus species (including Pythium, Verticillium, and Phytophthora, and Fusarium). The term “damping-off” is also often used and usually applies to disease in seeds, seedlings and clones.
i take it this is the nasty's we are fighting?

Whatever you call them, these diseases attack the roots of a plant and can rapidly infect crops in all stages. Damage includes reduced yields and crop failure. Pythium is particularly damaging in recirculating hydroponic systems as they provide ideal conditions for rapid growth and spread of infectious spores; a single infected plant can breed and send spores to all the plants.
The best thing is to prevent root rot from ever taking hold in the first place. so tru
It is an opportunistic disease which means that it is looking for sick, injured or weakened plants. Pythium is almost impossible to 100% eradicate from an infected system; this involves starting completely over (with new parents, containers, equipment, etc). It is probably present even if you don't know it - just waiting for its chance to get in. when it hit's it dont matter if the plant is sick or not.... the next part i dont think is tru at all.... find where it's coming from then the prob will be gone for me it was my water source

“The best preventative measure against Pythium attack is a healthy, rapidly growing plant as this is an opportunist pathogen and will enter at the site of tissue injury or if the plants are overly succulent, weakened or stressed for some reason. Often root damage during the seedling stage as plants are introduced to the hydroponic system is a danger time for Pythium infection. Pythium is of greatest threat during the seed germination and seedling development stage when plants are most vulnerable to attack, and adequate control and elimination of the pathogen during this stage is the best preventative measure of Pythium control in hydroponic systems. Strong healthy plants will develop resistance to Pythium attack during the seedling stage and this will prevent problems at a later stage of growth. “


Bacterial slime and other horrifying nasties
These are not the beneficial bacteria and fungi that we have already spoken about. These bacteria cause cloudy reservoirs, slimy build up, weird reservoir fuzz, gelatin growths and wild pH fluctuations. These are the reservoir monsters.

When these bad microbes are present at high populations and are happily feeding on organic matter, they use up just about all the oxygen in the nutrient solution, suffocating the plants. They release toxic substances as a biproduct of their life cycle. They also suppress the good microbes at the root zone and cause problems with nutrient uptake and plant growth.
so if you take the organic matter away they cant eat..... in a reef tank you do this by using whats called a skimmer
Bacteria slime and cloudy reservoirs
Bacteria can make the water cloudy, but tend to produce more of a slime or jellylike, smelly mass in the system.If you have it, you will notice slimy reservoir walls and perhaps an oily slick on the water. Another symptom can be a foamy buildup in the reservoir. If left to their own devices, these bacterial growths will smother the roots, depriving them of oxygen. Some species of anaerobic bacteria thrive in an environment deprived of oxygen and can produce chemical metabolites, such as alcohols, aldehydes, phenols and ethylene, that are toxic to plant roots and to other microorganisms.
so now we have a name for this slime.... sweet

Other symptoms of bacterial infections can be fuzzy, cotton like growths, or the growth of fur. Just in case you are wondering, that white fuzzy growth you see at the tip of your roots is desireable. That is not bacteria - That is the good stuff - you should see tiny fine white hairs at thje roots.

All of these nasties require organic matter to feed on. They may be there as the result of a buildup of dead roots and leaves in the root zone, but usually they are the result of adding an organic product to the reservoir. If the conditions are just right, the bacteria will begin to thrive.
note too self: don't add organic product to rez
One option is to use no organic additives at all and to rely strictly on chemical nutrients based on fertilizer salts.how bout using a uv lite? We think a better choice is to continue using organic material, but also using an enzymatic addtive like Hygrozyme that will break down the unwanted organic matter in the reservoir . If you would like to use additives such as bat guano, compost or fish-based products, you might consider run to waste instead of a recirculating system.

now i think there just trying to sell shit

What to do if you have a bacterial or fungal infection


You will want to completely clean out your system
good idea
if you can, you should remove each plant, rinse it off, perhaps even dip it in an H202 solution. You should trim off any dead roots. you should then clean your entire system using a strong bleach or h202 solution. We suggest soaking everything in bleach for a few hours. You will definately want to soak your pump and any tubing in bleach. again good idea
Make sure you rinse everything very well before putting the plants back in. BAD IDEA

If your plants are damaged, you might want to run the nutrient solution at a lower concentration than usual. good idea

We highly recommend using an enzymatic addditive such as Hygrozyme. . You should also run a stress relief additive like CANNA Rhizotonic. We always suggest using Liquid Karma, BAD IDEA
but if your problem is real bad, you might want to lay off the organics a little bit. you think?
While your roots are really hurting, you may want to foliar feed your plants with Nitrozime or Dutch Master If you haven't already, you should read the section above about inncoulating your system with good microbes. but you said the good one's make bad one?

Keep an eye on your reservoir. Be prepared to clean it out regularly, as soon as any sign of a infections (cloudy water or wild pH fluctuations) occur.

Remember IT IS MUCH EASIER TO PREVENT a pathogenic attack than it is to deal with it once it has occured!
__________________

:wallbash: after reading this..... no wonder ppl have issues
 
Last edited:

richyrich

Out of the slime, finally.
Veteran
My :2cents:

Absolutely, there is good information in the above, but it has to be dissected as you have done.

Root Rot and Pythium

"Root rot" is a generic name for several common opportunistic waterborne diseases that can seriously affect indoor and outdoor crops year round. "Pythium" is the name of one of these diseases and is also used as a generic term for several different root rot and stem rot fungus species (including Pythium, Verticillium, and Phytophthora, and Fusarium). The term “damping-off” is also often used and usually applies to disease in seeds, seedlings and clones.
i take it this is the nasty's we are fighting?Root rot is different then brown slime algae (misnomer name; it is a bacteria and not truly an algae).




Bacterial slime and other horrifying nasties
These are not the beneficial bacteria and fungi that we have already spoken about. These bacteria cause cloudy reservoirs, slimy build up, weird reservoir fuzz, gelatin growths and wild pH fluctuations. These are the reservoir monsters.

When these bad microbes are present at high populations and are happily feeding on organic matter, they use up just about all the oxygen in the nutrient solution, suffocating the plants. They release toxic substances as a biproduct of their life cycle. They also suppress the good microbes at the root zone and cause problems with nutrient uptake and plant growth.
so if you take the organic matter away they cant eat..... in a reef tank you do this by using whats called a skimmer This is a very good idea. I spoke of it, oh maybe 20 pages ago in this thread. Never got around to doing it, even though I have several laying around from my fish aquarium.
Bacteria slime and cloudy reservoirs
Bacteria can make the water cloudy, but tend to produce more of a slime or jellylike, smelly mass in the system.If you have it, you will notice slimy reservoir walls and perhaps an oily slick on the water. Another symptom can be a foamy buildup in the reservoir. If left to their own devices, these bacterial growths will smother the roots, depriving them of oxygen. Some species of anaerobic bacteria thrive in an environment deprived of oxygen and can produce chemical metabolites, such as alcohols, aldehydes, phenols and ethylene, that are toxic to plant roots and to other microorganisms.
so now we have a name for this slime.... sweet I'm no scientist, but I am 90% sure I have concluded right from research that this is brown slime algae. I, also, coined it the term hydro herpe. It never goes away, lol. Found out what it was over a year ago, several pages back again, from reading fish owner chat forums. The slime likes organics and this one from does not even need light. It gets it's energy source from organic matter. That is how I concluded this was the culprit. All descriptions of it match.

Other symptoms of bacterial infections can be fuzzy, cotton like growths, or the growth of fur. Just in case you are wondering, that white fuzzy growth you see at the tip of your roots is desireable. That is not bacteria - That is the good stuff - you should see tiny fine white hairs at thje roots.

All of these nasties require organic matter to feed on. They may be there as the result of a buildup of dead roots and leaves in the root zone, but usually they are the result of adding an organic product to the reservoir. If the conditions are just right, the bacteria will begin to thrive.
note too self: don't add organic product to rez Recently, as experimented and reported on past posts, you can go back to organics as long as you have a UV Sterilizer in your rez or are using EWC Tea for the bene microbe army.
One option is to use no organic additives at all and to rely strictly on chemical nutrients based on fertilizer salts.how bout using a uv lite? Above.We think a better choice is to continue using organic material, but also using an enzymatic addtive like Hygrozyme that will break down the unwanted organic matter in the reservoir . If you would like to use additives such as bat guano, compost or fish-based products, you might consider run to waste instead of a recirculating system.

now i think there just trying to sell shit Absolutely, trying to sell jet fuel, is the case here with this hydro herpe.

What to do if you have a bacterial or fungal infection


You will want to completely clean out your system
good idea Always, best is Physan 20.
if you can, you should remove each plant, rinse it off, perhaps even dip it in an H202 solution. You should trim off any dead roots. you should then clean your entire system using a strong bleach or h202 solution. We suggest soaking everything in bleach for a few hours. You will definately want to soak your pump and any tubing in bleach. again good idea
Make sure you rinse everything very well before putting the plants back in. BAD IDEA

If your plants are damaged, you might want to run the nutrient solution at a lower concentration than usual. good idea

We highly recommend using an enzymatic addditive such as Hygrozyme. . You should also run a stress relief additive like CANNA Rhizotonic. We always suggest using Liquid Karma, BAD IDEA
but if your problem is real bad, you might want to lay off the organics a little bit. you think?
While your roots are really hurting, you may want to foliar feed your plants with Nitrozime or Dutch Master If you haven't already, you should read the section above about inncoulating your system with good microbes. but you said the good one's make bad one?

Keep an eye on your reservoir. Be prepared to clean it out regularly, as soon as any sign of a infections (cloudy water or wild pH fluctuations) occur. Brown slime algae will make your pH rise and root rot (pythium) will make your pH drop.

Remember IT IS MUCH EASIER TO PREVENT a pathogenic attack than it is to deal with it once it has occured!
__________________

:wallbash: after reading this..... no wonder ppl have issues
 
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