Coco problems

[haschblume]

Hello people

I need your help

I build on Coco (canna Professional) fertilizer is T.A Coco

My water I mix osmosis and line to EC 0.4 Cal/mg are optimal

I always have problems on coco the first few weeks, I'm not sure if I'm fertilizing too little or if I'm wrong.

I let the steaks root then in 0.2 l pots coco and then in I think 1.5 l 2/3 coco 1/3 perlite

I fertilized with EC1.0, in the 1.5 liter pot then EC1.2-1.3 are about two weeks,

I don't water every day but by weight, every 2-3 days,

I poured them over the first few days in the 1.5l pot, I think at least I poured it once every day at the beginning.

There is definitely something wrong!

I hope someone can help me

Thank you

Edit: it is a Pinneapple Fruz from Herbal

PH is the NL is so at 6

 

[ResinousKingpin]

Increase your nutrient level! Nitrogen my friend. They are yellowing from bottom.Also repot them into bigger pots(root bound maybe).And start to water frequently,everyday to little runoff. Only at the beginning you can dry it some to increase root growth,after repot water every day.Also PH should be at 5.8

 

[stiff]

Yep...more nitrogen and ph levels between 5.8 and 6.1.

Also I'd water more regular..even if it turns into run-off.
It'll keep the Coco evenly moist and wash out any salt which might want to hang around in the substrate

I get that, that you want to water less in the first days. But once the small pot is full of roots,they can take it much better and really thrive if you give nutes more often

 

[Ca++]

It might be cold. Keeping them wet a bit too long.

Big leaves, slightly droopy, with N issues. It all leans that way. So lets look at temps, before increasing the feed. Though that increase may indeed be needed, once we know the temp is right.

 

[Rocket Soul]

It might be cold. Keeping them wet a bit too long.

Big leaves, slightly droopy, with N issues. It all leans that way. So lets look at temps, before increasing the feed. Though that increase may indeed be needed, once we know the temp is right.

Im with Ca: it may be an issue outside of nute levels.
Are you growing with leds by any chance? Then you need to dial in environment properly. You likely need more heat to cause the transpiration that drives nute intake. Led light does not heat the cannopy like other lights do and means the environment nneds to be a bit hoter; +25C is what i would recommend but really its more about looking at the leaves: if they stretch out it means the plant is drawing water. No point in doing too much nute adjustment until then cause it just means youll have to redo your nute levels when you get the plant transpiring properly. The plant can live on more of a weaker juice or less of a stronger juice but always best for it to get correct nutrients thru healthy drinking.
Another issue is Coco buffering: coco has a way to hang on to nutes in the media. We solve this by doing one complete drench of high nute solution right after every transplant to make sure the coco isnt 'hungry' for nutes.
Second thing id rec is to measure ec/ph out every time you water to see what the roots are actually experiencing instead of just measure output.

 

[haschblume]

Hy Temp is mind.22 -26 °C
I told them yesterday EC 2.0 .
12 hours latter she looks good
tonight I give them 1,8
I think I under fertilized
and yes its LED Sanlight s4
I try to turn the temperature up a few degrees.
thank you for helping

 

[stiff]

Ec 1.0 sounded too low for the size plants he has.
I sometimes give a freshly rooted clone more if it's a hungry one

 

[Rocket Soul]

Ec 1.0 sounded too low for the size plants he has.
I sometimes give a freshly rooted clone more if it's a hungry one

It all depends on whats in the pot, thats why i always rec checking run off every time you water unless youre multiwatering everyday

 

[stiff]

It all depends on whats in the pot, thats why i always rec checking run off every time you water unless youre multiwatering everyday

That's true. It can build up quick if you don't water regularly, that's why I recommended more frequent.

But it also comes down to other things like what light is used or what the temps are doing.


Nonetheless they look like a Nitrogen deficiency to me.

Since you raised the ec...maybe cut the yellowed leafes off and see if the new growth looks better or if it's still showing these signs..

I hope it won't. Happy growing,mate

 

[Rocket Soul]

That's true. It can build up quick if you don't water regularly, that's why I recommended more frequent.

But it also comes down to other things like what light is used or what the temps are doing.


Nonetheless they look like a Nitrogen deficiency to me.

Since you raised the ec...maybe cut the yellowed leafes off and see if the new growth looks better or if it's still showing these signs..

I hope it won't. Happy growing,mate

We do standard wet dry cycle with coco, watering too often hasnt really worked well for us. And our scarce water supply (were on rainwater only) does not allow for it.

 

[Ca++]

We do standard wet dry cycle with coco, watering too often hasnt really worked well for us. And our scarce water supply (were on rainwater only) does not allow for it.

So many types of coco, but something like canna professional, has a consistency that I couldn't make work just wet. Many folks mix with things to offer better drainage. However, switch to cogr and it really doesn't get too wet. It's just the husky stringy bits, that people find bits of in canna pro, but not a lot. cogr in a pot, is more like pebbles perform. Lot's of gaps, and what there is, holds little water. It's just not that dense spongy stuff that most coco is.
cogr doesn't come loose though. It's in compressed dry slabs, ready for dripping. Maybe F&D. It's already got panda around it. So you can slash one side to let in water, and wait a bit while it expands to slab size.
I smashed them up for pots, and watering frequency was high, or die. Like watering pebbles though, it was better to dunk them.

Our plants love a bit of air around the roots. The coco we tend to be sold, isn't ideal at all, but is really cheap, and we can make it work. It can hold a few days worth of water if your pots too big, and stall the plant. People often rush to big pots and stall their plants with more than 3 days water availability. These days we want 28c rooms, which leads to 28c at the root, and oxygen levels plumetting to ' I give up ' levels. If they are still not ready for water in 4 days, they are not going to be happy with what's still around them. Obviously dwc works, but 4 days without air or movement.. it's not at its best

When I'm messing around with coco plantlets, it's usually by hand, once a day. Once they can't hold a days water, is my queue for potting up.

 

[Rocket Soul]

So many types of coco, but something like canna professional, has a consistency that I couldn't make work just wet. Many folks mix with things to offer better drainage. However, switch to cogr and it really doesn't get too wet. It's just the husky stringy bits, that people find bits of in canna pro, but not a lot. cogr in a pot, is more like pebbles perform. Lot's of gaps, and what there is, holds little water. It's just not that dense spongy stuff that most coco is.
cogr doesn't come loose though. It's in compressed dry slabs, ready for dripping. Maybe F&D. It's already got panda around it. So you can slash one side to let in water, and wait a bit while it expands to slab size.
I smashed them up for pots, and watering frequency was high, or die. Like watering pebbles though, it was better to dunk them.

Our plants love a bit of air around the roots. The coco we tend to be sold, isn't ideal at all, but is really cheap, and we can make it work. It can hold a few days worth of water if your pots too big, and stall the plant. People often rush to big pots and stall their plants with more than 3 days water availability. These days we want 28c rooms, which leads to 28c at the root, and oxygen levels plumetting to ' I give up ' levels. If they are still not ready for water in 4 days, they are not going to be happy with what's still around them. Obviously dwc works, but 4 days without air or movement.. it's not at its best

When I'm messing around with coco plantlets, it's usually by hand, once a day. Once they can't hold a days water, is my queue for potting up.

That is very interesting, Cogr brand?
Ive been hoping to do something about water retention in our coco, bringing it down a bit. We go from very small pot to 10l for the last month in veg and i would like to push in a few more waterings, but i was thinking something in line with ppk, just the tai pipe and no res. Is Gogr coco relatively salt free and clean to start with?

Cant agree more on watering frequency... Infact the flood event seems to be the main oxygen provider rather than disolved oxygen; pot is flooded and then pulls in air when the water leaves as run off. As soon as the plants take watering every 3 days it off to the races for us...

 

[Ca++]

Cogr is a Canna professional line.
I'm not sure if their coco peat would somewhat smother it. The more widely used answer to this, is clay pebbles. Or maybe you could use smaller pots. I just had to build my own F&D buckets system, for 2L buckets. I literally just posted a pic, 2 mins ago in random.

 

[Orange's Greenhouse]

You can wash coco through a small sieve, maybe 3 mm holes, to remove fines. What's left is the fluffy stuff that works even without perlite. Then buffer it with your nutrient solution 2-3 times.
You can use the worst coco bricks and get excellent results if prepared like that.