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Spider mites help

Ca++

Well-known member
Glad it's under control

I don't mind the floor myself. Nothing wants to live in plastic grass, and its easy enough to wash down. Mites head upwards, so the plastic floor is an unlikely home.

Now if it were wool carpet on damp ground, it could support life. There is nothing to eat in plastic grass though. Campaigners are trying to get is banned as bugs won't live in it. Which is part of the eco system.
 

Charles Dankens

Well-known member
Spider mites are attracted to plants with abundant levels of free ammonium in the sap.

Elevated levels of ammonium often occur in high temperature environments when plants shift from photosynthesis dominant to photorespiration dominant. When this shift to high photorespiration occurs, plants are no longer getting enough energy (sugars) from the photosynthesis process (which has slowed down or halted). To sustain themselves, they begin catabolizing proteins (amino acid nitrogen) to use as an energy source.

The protein catabolism during photorespiration in high temperature environments usually results in the accumulation of ammonium in the leaf, which can result in the crop being susceptible to spider mites..

BUT.. this happens ONLY when the plant does not have the needed nutrients and enzyme cofactors to convert the ammonium back into amino proteins at night, or as soon as carbohydrate energy become available.

The critical nutrients for this conversion process are magnesium, sulfur, boron, molybdenum, adequate carbohydrates in the plant, and occasionally nickel.

 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
Yep.

Rabbit manure hits all the nutrition points for converting ammonium to proteins. It's also why it does not burn plants when used fresh, even though it has high nitrogen (non-ammonium) levels.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Does anyone know if 50/50 water alcohol spray kills eggs? Is it OK for newly rooted clone or does it need to be well established?
 

St. Phatty

Active member
Does anyone know if 50/50 water alcohol spray kills eggs? Is it OK for newly rooted clone or does it need to be well established?

It's a good question if it works.

I think it's important to give the process of de-miting a few days or even a week.

If you use a Safer's dip tank, it doesn't kill the eggs so you have to dip every 2 or 3 days.

I think outdoors, one dip is enough, because there are lady bugs and other natural predators.

Now I realize, 50/50 water alcohol - so that would be like putting 100 proof Vodka in a spray bottle ?
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
It's a good question if it works.

I think it's important to give the process of de-miting a few days or even a week.

If you use a Safer's dip tank, it doesn't kill the eggs so you have to dip every 2 or 3 days.

I think outdoors, one dip is enough, because there are lady bugs and other natural predators.

Now I realize, 50/50 water alcohol - so that would be like putting 100 proof Vodka in a spray bottle ?
I should have specified isopropyll which is typically 70% so after mixing 35%. Have heard of people using before and they claimed they could not become immune to it.

Has anyone had 2 spot spider mites that were not killed by no pest strips??? I had 2 stored in gallon ziploc that were only used a few days. I put 2 in 5 X 5 tent for 3 days and they were still alive.

These are not mites picked up in yard which I have easily dealt with in past. These are mites from hell that most likely came from warehouse grows that have become immune to everything, that came from seller that swore he only sells healthy plants. Trashed everything and down to one 4 inch clone and found eggs on it.
 

zachrockbadenof

Well-known member
Veteran
I should have specified isopropyll which is typically 70% so after mixing 35%. Have heard of people using before and they claimed they could not become immune to it.

Has anyone had 2 spot spider mites that were not killed by no pest strips??? I had 2 stored in gallon ziploc that were only used a few days. I put 2 in 5 X 5 tent for 3 days and they were still alive.

These are not mites picked up in yard which I have easily dealt with in past. These are mites from hell that most likely came from warehouse grows that have become immune to everything, that came from seller that swore he only sells healthy plants. Trashed everything and down to one 4 inch clone and found eggs on it.
in a word....SHIT.... mites suk
 

flylowgethigh

Non-growing Lurker
ICMag Donor
Sucking my tent inlet air through a 3M house 1900 HEPA filter, and blowing the clean air into my tents, keeping positive pressure, has eliminated my SM issues. PM too. The inlet and outlet fans are set to a constant speed, and the environment in there is stable.

I am waiting to the blown air filter box to be a product for tents. It just works.
 

Ringodoggie

Well-known member
@Loc Dog , @Douglas.Curtis is the one who claims that iso/water works on mites. I am not sure what ratio he uses. Perhaps he will pop in and let you know. I think it would be way less than 50/50. I am thinking more like a tsp per gallon, perhaps a little more. I guess we will find out if he pops in.
 

Douglas.Curtis

Autistic Diplomat in Training
1oz of 90%+ iso to one gallon of water, plus enough surfactant to eliminate beading up.
(Edit: Greaaaat! :( When did my brain change 1 pint to 1 ounce?

You want a full pint per gallon!!)

Literally, there is no defense against this, there is no way for the mites to develop resistance. The solution kills mites, dissolves webs and kills eggs. As long as you drench everything EXCEPT the root zone every 3 days, hatching mites have no time to lay new eggs. After 15 days (5 spray downs/saturations, done once every 3 days) there are no eggs left to hatch and no live mites left. Done and done.

The biggest issues I see are when people are not aware of the original source of infection, or have a secondary infection nearby they are unaware of. In these cases it seems like they are resistant to everything. I have had mites come into my grow several times, simply by having other growers sit in my living room. heh It's handy to have a small, unfiltered, mum/veg area in the areas where you entertain folks. Those plants will quickly show any issues with visitors. :D
 
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Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
Irremediable imho, the best method to really kill them is to use anti-flea grenade in the grow room or entire house before new grow.
That is what I am doing in rooms plus a month or two break in those rooms, multiple bug bombs, UVC, no pest strips and ordering large numbers of predatory mites at first sign of any more. Going to release them outdoors where I dumped the plants, also. The mites are cheap, but overnight shipping costs suck. They eat all stages including eggs. I am spraying the one cutting with venerate which does not kill adults but prevents other stages from molting so they crush to death. Will add some Prevasyn which is insanely hot pepper to the mix. Had soaked the cutting and spray it everyday, which should have worked. Sucks that I spent $1500 on clones and never enjoyed any of them grown well.
 
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TanzanianMagic

Well-known member
Veteran
Hi all

My greenhouse has an infestation of small red gnats, which I initially thought was in family with Aphids, but when I looked under microscope today I saw a happy red spider mite spinning its web. Have a nice video, but cannot upload it here. Greenhouse has good ventilation = I cannot see any webs or the small mofos cannot make the web due to wind, but still happy without the web?
I have tried Neem oil, Spinosad and another "safe" insecticides clearly without luck.

Location is Thailand (12 degree N)

All plants are 5 weeks into veg and I plan to veg them another 4-5 weeks = I should be able to "nuke" them now and consider the flower safe some 15-20 weeks later?

Suggestions on treatment/chemicals are very welcome. I have had spider mites many times before, but these red guys thrive no matter what I try.

Pics:
View attachment 18815255

This fellow is making a web between 2 leaves under the microscope.
View attachment 18815256
1) Make a fermentation of sprouted hempseeds/microgreens.


2) Spray 1 cap/gallon

Working with gravity from top to bottom, spend at least 5 seconds per node of constant spraying.

Spray once every 2 weeks or whenever there is sign of insect activity.

This will remove most insects, all of them over time, and coat the plant leaves with a biofilm that protects against predation. It also kills leafminers almost on contact and they become part of the leaf. It stimulates the endophytic fungi in the plant tissues.

The combination will result in no insect pressure and fast growing plants.
 

Loc Dog

Hobbies include "drinkin', smokin' weed, and all k
Veteran
This was an hour after unpacking from seller that swore his plants were clean and said they got in during shipping even though in sealed bag. Was 100F day so had fans blowing. Dark spots are turds, white circles are eggs and they get darker the closer to hatching they are.

chewdawg#4a.jpg
 
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