Spider mites help

[Loc Dog]

three things I know

Predatory Mites
Predatory Nematodes
Predatory LadyBugs

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Feeds on Two-Spotted Spider Mites, Broad Mites, Rust Mites, Russet Hemp Mites, Cyclamen Mites, Southern Red Mites, and many other species of mites.

Was wondering what odds are of them getting them all. If they miss 1 egg and die out, back to square one.

I would be interested in knowing if throwing bud in freezer that had them would kill mites/eggs. They hibernate but heard less light per day has something to do with that, and go into hibernation mode. If I still had them would test in a jar.

Also interested in if anyone has damaged plants with 50/50 isopropyl and water.

 

[daleharris]

Nuke it from orbit.

 

[ILSID]

Hi all

My greenhouse has an infestation of small red gnats, which I initially thought was in family with Aphids, but when I looked under microscope today I saw a happy red spider mite spinning its web. Have a nice video, but cannot upload it here. Greenhouse has good ventilation = I cannot see any webs or the small mofos cannot make the web due to wind, but still happy without the web?
I have tried Neem oil, Spinosad and another "safe" insecticides clearly without luck.

Location is Thailand (12 degree N)

All plants are 5 weeks into veg and I plan to veg them another 4-5 weeks = I should be able to "nuke" them now and consider the flower safe some 15-20 weeks later?

Suggestions on treatment/chemicals are very welcome. I have had spider mites many times before, but these red guys thrive no matter what I try.

Pics:
View attachment 18815255

This fellow is making a web between 2 leaves under the microscope.
View attachment 18815256

not sure if anyone has mentioned this yet, but soapy water helps a lot. the red mites seem to be more vigorous than the little clear ones. i would def try loading a spray bottle w soapy water and spraying the piss out of them. good luck

 

[Cuddles]

@Cuddles will Rosemary attract or deter spider mites?

from what I´ve gathered it´s suppose to deter them. But this won´t help if the grow space is not clean enough before you begin growing.

 

[Cuddles]

If the borg don´t like certain scents, would dissolving the scented oil inside the grow space keep them out?

 

[Ringodoggie]

How about a baggie with your choice of scent (Eucalyptus would be my try) placed over the top of the plant for a number of hours.

It's not going to rid the problem but sometimes you just need to control it temporarily until harvest or whatever.

I wonder how they respond to sound? High Freq or super loud like an air horn blasted on the bud.

LOL Really reaching, now.

Again, good luck to the OP

 

[Greenheart]

I'm with the daily spray and thorough coverage votes. Neem always worked for me. I defoliated all leaves but new growth shoots and sprayed daily for 2 weeks whenever I encountered mites or thrips.

You can't miss anything during treatment. You will see bite marks on any leaf areas that were matted during application. As the others stated. Continuing to eliminate the offspring is also key to eradication no matter what method you use.

 

[Smeden]

Thanks for all the great inputs and replies.
I think/hope I am pest free again as I don't see any bite marks on new growth.

I hope the 8" extraction fan + 2 x 16" oscillating fans per 6sqm greenhouse will help me reduce the temperature a tiny bit. It has been very dry and hot the past 6 months.
I also had them buggers indoor, but indoor was easily fixed with Spinosad where outdoors was a nightmare and still not 100% sure they are gone.

Flowering day 5. Heavy defoliation needed within the next week.

 

[Cuddles]

Thanks for all the great inputs and replies.
I think/hope I am pest free again as I don't see any bite marks on new growth.

I hope the 8" extraction fan + 2 x 16" oscillating fans per 6sqm greenhouse will help me reduce the temperature a tiny bit. It has been very dry and hot the past 6 months.
I also had them buggers indoor, but indoor was easily fixed with Spinosad where outdoors was a nightmare and still not 100% sure they are gone.

Flowering day 5. Heavy defoliation needed within the next week.
View attachment 18825208

Nice job!

here´s something else to remember : It´s is best not to wear the same clothes when you get inside you check in on indoor plants as the pests can get stuck on your clothes. So you´re taking them elsewhere without realizing it.
This is especially true if you already know that the borg are present.
It´s too easy to forget this little detail and I bet you good money that I´m gonna be making this very mistake myself sooner or late (...again) .

 

[Dime]

Was wondering what odds are of them getting them all. If they miss 1 egg and die out, back to square one.

I would be interested in knowing if throwing bud in freezer that had them would kill mites/eggs. They hibernate but heard less light per day has something to do with that, and go into hibernation mode. If I still had them would test in a jar.

Also interested in if anyone has damaged plants with 50/50 isopropyl and water.

The problem with predatory insects is you have to get them when they are hungry otherwise they just die off. People think you just release them and thye go directly and start eating but they don't

 

[St. Phatty]

I love Spider Mites.

I have a T-shirt that says "Spiter Mites' Lives Matter".

 

[daleharris]

The problem with predatory insects is you have to get them when they are hungry otherwise they just die off. People think you just release them and thye go directly and start eating but they don't

They are always hungry.

 

[linde]

Thanks for all the great inputs and replies.
I think/hope I am pest free again as I don't see any bite marks on new growth.

I hope the 8" extraction fan + 2 x 16" oscillating fans per 6sqm greenhouse will help me reduce the temperature a tiny bit. It has been very dry and hot the past 6 months.
I also had them buggers indoor, but indoor was easily fixed with Spinosad where outdoors was a nightmare and still not 100% sure they are gone.

Flowering day 5. Heavy defoliation needed within the next week.
View attachment 18825208

Is that carpet on the floor? Man I would get rid of that it's a great spot for mites and thrips to hide and lay eggs. Rip that stuff out and lay a heavy duty tarp on the floor. When it's time to clean up just yank the tarp out shake it off and hose it down. Just an idea.

 

[moses wellfleet]

Spider mites are attracted to plants with abundant levels of free ammonium in the sap.

Elevated levels of ammonium often occur in high temperature environments when plants shift from photosynthesis dominant to photorespiration dominant. When this shift to high photorespiration occurs, plants are no longer getting enough energy (sugars) from the photosynthesis process (which has slowed down or halted). To sustain themselves, they begin catabolizing proteins (amino acid nitrogen) to use as an energy source.

The protein catabolism during photorespiration in high temperature environments usually results in the accumulation of ammonium in the leaf, which can result in the crop being susceptible to spider mites..

BUT.. this happens ONLY when the plant does not have the needed nutrients and enzyme cofactors to convert the ammonium back into amino proteins at night, or as soon as carbohydrate energy become available.

The critical nutrients for this conversion process are magnesium, sulfur, boron, molybdenum, adequate carbohydrates in the plant, and occasionally nickel.

This is the most that makes the most sense here.

If you continue to offer the mites an environment which is conducive you will not eradicate or control them. All the other stuff is just bandaid on a stab wound. Sure you can use it to hasten the departure of the mites while you sort out the underlying issues.

I don’t know enough to comment on the science of the above but we thank you for bringing it to the table. My experience has been through observation of plant reaction. Healthy plants that have been allowed access to essential elements, and grown within VPD parameters will not support a population of mites.

 

[moses wellfleet]

so you don´t recommend placing water containers around the greenhouse in order to increase humidity in it?
What if you relace the water regularly?

Evaporative cooler to increase humidity, aka swamp cooler. If it allows you to bring the grow space climate within VPD (Vapor pressure deficit) levels then yes it is a good idea to raise humidity.

 

[Smeden]

Is that carpet on the floor? Man I would get rid of that it's a great spot for mites and thrips to hide and lay eggs. Rip that stuff out and lay a heavy duty tarp on the floor. When it's time to clean up just yank the tarp out shake it off and hose it down. Just an idea.

Someone else mentioned this in the start of the thread. I have black heavy duty tarp under the grass carpet, but it is hard to control the heat so I did not want a black floor.
I will order white heavy duty tarps and bin the grass carpet. Thx.

 

[Smeden]

This is the most that makes the most sense here.

If you continue to offer the mites an environment which is conducive you will not eradicate or control them. All the other stuff is just bandaid on a stab wound. Sure you can use it to hasten the departure of the mites while you sort out the underlying issues.

I don’t know enough to comment on the science of the above but we thank you for bringing it to the table. My experience has been through observation of plant reaction. Healthy plants that have been allowed access to essential elements, and grown within VPD parameters will not support a population of mites.

Agree this explanation makes the most sense. Especially when the greenhouses have enjoyed up to 50C at mid-day.
I use same AN nutrients + boosters outside and indoor. The mites do not enjoy being indoor but have been thriving outdoors at 40-50C daytime and dry, though the humidity is 68% on a day like today.
We are going into the wet season, so I dont see a reason to do much about humidity other than spray the plants morning, evening and if is cloudy.

 

[Cactus Squatter]

Hi all

Thanks for all the good inputs again.

I have ordered a sistematic pesticide (Neonincotinoid) which I am told is ok to use 5-6 weeks before human consumption. Since I need to veg them some more before flower I guess I can consider the buds safe 12-15 weeks after application?

Also ordered 8" / 550cbm/h extraction fan and 2 x 16" oscilating fans for each greenhouse.
I hope the air extraction will be enough to keep the doors closed and maybe reduce the temp a bit compared to non windy days and open door 45C.

Anybody see a problem with the artificial grass as floor? it is very comfy, easy to clean and allows me to saturate with water = raise the RH in each greenhouse. Outside RH is 43% on a day like today.

I run artificial grass as a floor. For the most part it works well, just make sure any weeds or especially Bermuda grass that gets onto it are pulled quickly or they’ll start to lift the “grass” and make hard lumps. Bermuda grass is really hard to get out of it if it establishes in the area around it.

 

[Cactus Squatter]

Your plants were still missing something (molybdenum or nickel perhaps and possibly UV) or your nutrients were providing too much ammonium nitrate. Mites literally cannot digest plants healthy enough to produce the proteins they're supposed to when fully healthy. The proteins destroy the digestive system of the mites and kill them.

Science!

As for mites... they're stupid easy as long as you find and eliminate the original source of infection and then:

Mix 1 ounce of 91% isopropyl alcohol in a gallon of water and a surfactant.
Protect the root zone from runoff/dripping.
Completely spray every plant until dripping, then shake and let dry in a breeze. (keep from breathing)

Do this every 3 days for 5 treatments.

Your mites will be gone, regardless if they're 'resistant' or not. You're welcome.

So what is your mix/schedule/however you grow that gets you to perfect nutrition and therefore a solid level of built in pest protection? I’ve been trying my ass off and I still get occasional issues with mites but especially with freaking aphids.

 

[Douglas.Curtis]

Easiest, hands down, is rabbit urine but daaamn that's a stink. Personally, I add calcium acetate (KNF water soluble calcium) and rabbit manure tea to whatever I am using.