What's new
  • ICMag with help from Phlizon, Landrace Warden and The Vault is running a NEW contest for Christmas! You can check it here. Prizes are: full spectrum led light, seeds & forum premium access. Come join in!

Sour Diesel (Sour D) - Upstate NY 2000/01

flower~power

~Star~Crash~
ICMag Donor
Veteran
You’re trying to be clear about what you’re doing but you’re still shouting sour diesel..According to the title of this thread it’s a real eyecatcher :sasmokin:
 

ledo

Chasing the Present
Your mix spectrum is genius ever looked at 14k metal halide with low iron glass?? They call it a finishing bulb but I would thunk haze and sattys would appreciate the blue/uv all cycle long. Takin it further could develop light regiments for specific phenotypes
Thank you

I've tested every type of Halide there is, open & closed rated too. Halides for Aquarium, buildings, all types of Fluros for Aquarium, bulbs for reptiles, the whole gamete. They are all coated to block most all UV, and few put off weak levels of UVA, the reptile bulbs and certain UV specific Fluros for AG put out a tiny amount of UVB, a tiny fraction of the bulbs I've linked in here & around. It's due to MFG laws here in the states and most countries for that matter, that outer envelope on the halides blocks all the good stuff, even the low Fe glass ones, little to no UVB, I've tested 6K, 10K, 14K & 20K plus probably a few others I'm forgetting.... Those USHIO midrange UVB put out 100+ UVI if within a foot or two... Nothing comes even close, afterall they are a bulb for industry, dermatology etc and thus have different regulations, some countries you can't buy them without a license....

For most plants and cuz I'm always running sativas I run bright white most the day, but they awake to the most white & blue I've got, midday for 6 hours or so is all lights on plus UVB (when using I run this day one of grow till end, seedlings perhaps benefit the most for numerous reasons) and then end of day and bedtime I put them to sleep with the HPS DE, lots of good FR & IR in them, perfect for bedtime....

I know far too much about lighting tech, indoor vs outdoor timing (big differences), phytochrome / Emerson etc, I was doing studies on this years before the Cannabis space was... did you know the moon reflects predominantly FR & IR spectrums, had to read a NASA paper from the 60's to find that one, though it was a hypothesis I had.... we all know what FR & IR does, speeds up a plants timing....


***********************************************************************

RE The project of this thread.....

I pulled 10K+ of seeds from the 10 F and 1 Male -
I also made a bucket of two favorite females and same 1 male, also thousands of seeds in there

Peace y'all & thanks for watching along
 
Last edited:

Kimes

Well-known member
Love this thread, so informative and brilliant photos. I live outside USA so East Coast SourD is nonexistent in my circles at least.. I only have a few JJ Topdawgs SourD beans, but haven´t had time to grow it yet.Anyone have experience on them??
 

airplane

Active member
Everyone has a story, here’s mine… Pulled one seed from a lb. Back @2000/01 when the Upstate NY Sour D was @ back then, this is CNY… One grower in area had it, hoarded cut under threat, they even went through their flowers making sure no seeds… but as we all know, them little beauties sneak in, I pulled one from a elbow (hard to get that much back then in fact) and I later selfed that plant @2008 or so when I later had the space & time to properly do so…

That initial selfing made 400-500 seeds or so, all the plants below are from that selfing. Some variety in these 10 or 11 plants but not too much…

This round I’m gonna hit them with a few males I selected from @Donald Mallard Sour Mango, thank you my brother from another… :)

I’m no “diesel” OG nor Kush expert, some have told me this looks even older like the original diesel, all I know is what I experienced - it was called Sour D and @ 1998 or so - early mid 2000’s that I recall

What they are is all diesel sour funk, have no viruses, no variegation, no HpLVd, vigorous as can be…

I’ve crossed these out to quite a few things over the years and though some were magical it lost most it’s diesel funk, let’s hope this one works, I prefer regs but won’t be holding my breath

View attachment 18817645

View attachment 18817646

View attachment 18817647

View attachment 18817648

View attachment 18817649

View attachment 18817650

View attachment 18817651

View attachment 18817652
see you are using "BOG's) transplant method - just started to do it - understand how it works
 

ledo

Chasing the Present
sour diesel did indeed come from new york, but not upstate ... it came out of a house on staten island- i won't give u the address, but the house was on bidwell ave... between lathrop and leonard ave's....
You say baagel & I say bagel :respect:

see you are using "BOG's) transplant method - just started to do it - understand how it works
What is BOG’s transplant method & whom is Bog?

Love this thread, so informative and brilliant photos. I live outside USA so East Coast SourD is nonexistent in my circles at least.. I only have a few JJ Topdawgs SourD beans, but haven´t had time to grow it yet.Anyone have experience on them??
Thanks for stopping by :tiphat: - no experience on my end in regards to above but you should pop them & let us know
 

silverhazefiend

"Aint no love in the heart of the city"
Veteran
Sour D CAME from Upstate NY, the real sour is from @ here upstate / CNY..... I call it exactly what I should IMO, unlike some others whom are just slinging shit; made up stories & names of cuts they have little clue about true origins, and certainly not cuts from 20-25+ years ago...

I took a seed out of a lb of Sour D from CNY in the winter of 2000 I know that for 100% fact, what would you suggest I call it then better than I've been, honestly - I'd love to hear a better idea...?

PS: what makes you the Sour D Expert btw, any pics of your "authenticated" Sour D you have in the present..?

Many thanks

I’m far from a expert I just have some experience from dealing with it and growing it in the last 12 months I grew
POW - sd x sd warheads
Optimus prime - ecsd x 4516
Karma sour d s1
Osd x karma sour d
Tk x karma sour d

And I wouldn’t call anyone of those “ecsd” not even the karmas just “diesel”

Call it “LED 05 sour” but calling it real upstate sour and it doesn’t even look like sour is insane lol
 

airplane

Active member
You say baagel & I say bagel :respect:


What is BOG’s transplant method & whom is Bog?


Thanks for stopping by :tiphat: - no experience on my end in regards to above but you should pop them & let us know
when you transplant - take whole potted plant to be transplanted - plant it leaving about an 1 above your top soil --- see his Bonanza of Green - a great publication written some time ago BOG has become famous for a few of his strains Bog Bubble,ect reason less stress and more O2 to transplanted plant + (publication is worth a read) kind of surprised you haven't heard of him . publication cost $135.00 BUT you can read it free at "Overgrow.com' Just type in Bonanza if Green
 

ledo

Chasing the Present
The sour police
Seriously lmao over here brother…:tiphat:

Your nostalgia doesn’t align with mine & I wasn’t even from the area when IT all went down, but hey I’ve grow what looks like Euro X’s of the Sour D & for twelve months so now I’m telling you what IT is… haha, shit is deep & rich - Id bet no threads, no pics & no journal either; just a hunch…
u r making me hungry.....
Haha - Id take NYC bagel over upstate every time for certain !

******************************
Feels like it’s been almost a week we can’t attach images, that sure seems a bit long for a site like this - I’ve got seed pics & some serious SE Asian Jagged leaf pics to put up that are quite large for indoor leafs
 
Last edited:

ledo

Chasing the Present
when you transplant - take whole potted plant to be transplanted - plant it leaving about an 1 above your top soil --- see his Bonanza of Green - a great publication written some time ago BOG has become famous for a few of his strains Bog Bubble,ect reason less stress and more O2 to transplanted plant + (publication is worth a read) kind of surprised you haven't heard of him . publication cost $135.00 BUT you can read it free at "Overgrow.com' Just type in Bonanza if Green
Thanks for those details

I run containers in larger containers for more precise control of transpiration & the root zones feeding; been doing this on / off for a decade+ now. Which containers you use & their sizing matters too, how deep you bury etc but most often for me here I’m just using what’s available & winging it as quickly & easy as possible, it all works out in the end…

But I can’t imagine writing a publication on it when I could explain it all in a paragraph or two but kudos to BOG for any of the ones he actually sold for $135 !!! A fool & his money eh…haha
 

ledo

Chasing the Present
I have a supposed sour d clone I recently acquired. Stanks like og in veg. Going to put one in flower soon.
Nice, looking forward to see some pics of it, maybe by time it’s mid flower we'll be able to attach pics again here …. I kid I kid :p mr mods
 

Piff_cat

Well-known member
Thank you

I've tested every type of Halide there is, open & closed rated too. Halides for Aquarium, buildings, all types of Fluros for Aquarium, bulbs for reptiles, the whole gamete. They are all coated to block most all UV, and few put off weak levels of UVA, the reptile bulbs and certain UV specific Fluros for AG put out a tiny amount of UVB, a tiny fraction of the bulbs I've linked in here & around. It's due to MFG laws here in the states and most countries for that matter, that outer envelope on the halides blocks all the good stuff, even the low Fe glass ones, little to no UVB, I've tested 6K, 10K, 14K & 20K plus probably a few others I'm forgetting.... Those USHIO midrange UVB put out 100+ UVI if within a foot or two... Nothing comes even close, afterall they are a bulb for industry, dermatology etc and thus have different regulations, some countries you can't buy them without a license....

For most plants and cuz I'm always running sativas I run bright white most the day, but they awake to the most white & blue I've got, midday for 6 hours or so is all lights on plus UVB (when using I run this day one of grow till end, seedlings perhaps benefit the most for numerous reasons) and then end of day and bedtime I put them to sleep with the HPS DE, lots of good FR & IR in them, perfect for bedtime....

I know far too much about lighting tech, indoor vs outdoor timing (big differences), phytochrome / Emerson etc, I was doing studies on this years before the Cannabis space was... did you know the moon reflects predominantly FR & IR spectrums, had to read a NASA paper from the 60's to find that one, though it was a hypothesis I had.... we all know what FR & IR does, speeds up a plants timing....


***********************************************************************

RE The project of this thread.....

I pulled 10K+ of seeds from the 10 F and 1 Male -
I also made a bucket of two favorite females and same 1 male, also thousands of seeds in there

Peace y'all & thanks for watching along
wow man you really know your shit ! thanks for the rundown. your system is alot like hypothetical setups ive considered very helpful. have you looked at the dimlux de and controller? they dont get much press but dimlux is so innovative their leaf surface temp controll is really next level.

approaching vpd from a dimmer base mechanism instead of only relying on ac/humdifier. they have an infrared thermometer that reads cannopy leaf surface temp. then the hps themselves are actively dimmed if the leaf surface gets too high. even just having the leaf surface temp measured and tracked is a gamechanger. especially with haze/sativas when they have very strict climate standards.
the increase of leaf surface temp, low humidity and those stomatas closing up accounts for a large chunk of the hermies/shooters/reveg first time haze growers run into. its tough because sometimes a plant will want very intense light but also need high humidity to shield leaf surface from cookin up resulting in a big nitrogen spike as well.
reading thru all yo sammy and bonks work on the dutch forums they start the 600 hps nearly 3 feet from the canopy to begin with. their mastery of haze procedure combined with ur light knowledge can make big strides for homegrowers. other features with the dimlux include the high voltage 277/400 ballast what do you think of those? it also offers a nanotube model for active cooling of the bulb/fixture. air is pushed into ducting that enters the fixture goes all the way around and keeps pushing thru to exaust. i guess the big advantage is air cooling while maintaining a sealed enviorment but also increases the capability of lights i believe.
Screenshot 2023-05-02 at 11-27-56 Dimlux Sensors - Dimlux Lighting - The Best Grow Lights.png
Screenshot 2023-05-02 at 11-28-32 MKII 1000 Watt 277V - Dimlux Lighting - The Best Grow Lights.png


Screenshot 2023-05-02 at 18-13-27 Nanotube - Dimlux Lighting - The Best Grow Lights.png
Screenshot 2023-05-02 at 18-14-54 Ultra Optics - Dimlux Lighting - The Best Grow Lights.png
Screenshot 2023-05-02 at 18-12-23 Maxi Controller Datalog - Dimlux Lighting - The Best Grow Li...png
 

ledo

Chasing the Present
wow man you really know your shit ! thanks for the rundown. your system is alot like hypothetical setups ive considered very helpful. have you looked at the dimlux de and controller? they dont get much press but dimlux is so innovative their leaf surface temp controll is really next level.

approaching vpd from a dimmer base mechanism instead of only relying on ac/humdifier. they have an infrared thermometer that reads cannopy leaf surface temp. then the hps themselves are actively dimmed if the leaf surface gets too high. even just having the leaf surface temp measured and tracked is a gamechanger. especially with haze/sativas when they have very strict climate standards.
the increase of leaf surface temp, low humidity and those stomatas closing up accounts for a large chunk of the hermies/shooters/reveg first time haze growers run into. its tough because sometimes a plant will want very intense light but also need high humidity to shield leaf surface from cookin up resulting in a big nitrogen spike as well.
reading thru all yo sammy and bonks work on the dutch forums they start the 600 hps nearly 3 feet from the canopy to begin with. their mastery of haze procedure combined with ur light knowledge can make big strides for homegrowers. other features with the dimlux include the high voltage 277/400 ballast what do you think of those? it also offers a nanotube model for active cooling of the bulb/fixture. air is pushed into ducting that enters the fixture goes all the way around and keeps pushing thru to exaust. i guess the big advantage is air cooling while maintaining a sealed enviorment but also increases the capability of lights i believe. View attachment 18836708 View attachment 18836709

View attachment 18836726 View attachment 18836731 View attachment 18836735
Thank you & a lot above to comment on; first I don’t know bonks but do Sammy; he’s a great grower & fella, master of his domain. I too like hanging up bright lights high & letting plants grow into them, it’s certainly the easiest way to do things too which is a huge added benefit & something I focus on here, simplicity. Proper Air flow is king too, Sammy knows that

I do love technology & undoubtedly we’re all living in paradise these days; though lighting tech has pretty much plateaued (more bang for buck not worth the R&D it seems) but it’s all we need & the level of controls across the board of everything unbelievable & undeniable these days vs. only 10 or 20 years ago…

That said I’m lazy & old school in some ways and just run numerous plug in cheap timers and no other controls but do hammer my plants with bright quality & variety of light, good air flow, proper humidity via airflow & knowing my rooms better than the back my hand, good & proper watering technique is critical too … I also believe in temp & humidity swings & letting humidity get quite high during flower, but I’m often experimenting and grow a lot of things outside & under cover too, so everything in here is often tinkering & pushing plants to find the best but also strongest, imo you should strive for & expect both high quality plants but also vigorous, healthy & easy to grow ones too… You can have it all in one package, that should be everyone’s goal(s)

It’s probably high time I get more proper timer & controls tech but working that into a lot of custom lights I’ve built & such has held me off…

And if it’s not broken…

If I was to set up something large to scale, commercial it would be all cutting edge within reason of financial constraints - often just spending money on shit you think you need costs you more than just that money spent ;) - that’s true in all business

Peace
 
Last edited:

ledo

Chasing the Present
When I smoke the deseeded flower which is all just crumble now in a 2 gallon bucket (I’ll make oil or dry sift) man do I miss the sour pine spice flavor, makes your mouth go tingle & a bit numb like a light dose lidocaine… good strong stuff, I went & popped a handful Sweet & Sour D seeds from above to take a quick glance, I’ll run more later once they cure properly & will send the few people seeds I said I would then too

Peace
 

zachrockbadenof

Well-known member
Veteran
led05 - a question - i have little space and grow only ladies (save for the occasional) hermie... i see you grow for seeds... do u feel a diff between ladies with seeds and no seeds??? - my feeling is that no lite will grow weed as good as our sun, and that seeded bud has a little more kick to it- nothing scientific your my feeling after smoking for lots and lots of years
 
Top