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Slownickel lounge, pull up a chair. CEC interpretation
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Cute assistant til she puts on the glasses.
LMAO Is that Costa Rica? San Jose?
These are the most interesting points imo. The first few talk about leeching but I think there is a window where the leeched cations are available or in solution. I've seen what appears to be a manganese toxicity induced by gypsum application. Then, if you continue to water to run off you lose what was released. Unless you can perfectly water a container for 2.5 months, it seems you run the risk of adding calcium at the expense of other cations, which is great if you have high Mg or K.
Gypsum depressing phosphorus brings me back to the questions I asked earlier about these liberal Calcium applications and perhaps why we constantly need to apply more P. Is this a feedback problem. Do we have to keep adding more Ca and P indefinitely because they are constantly getting tied up and unavailable?
Where was his soil at before he added that amount?
TnTLabs
Active member
I thought gypsum would help with the fertility of acidic soils? Or Did I get it mixed up with lime? I guess its good I added A little of both?
So since gypsum basically doesnt last long or has a short half life. Wouldnt it be good for me to add some crushed Oyster Shells to the mix or pots. Probably around 1 month after I added the Gypsum? Since the Oystershells would take longer for the microbes to break down, shouldnt it be available when the gypsum is no more lol?
That Leaf looks fricken huge, kinda looks like its from A different plant that resembles maryjane
So since gypsum basically doesnt last long or has a short half life. Wouldnt it be good for me to add some crushed Oyster Shells to the mix or pots. Probably around 1 month after I added the Gypsum? Since the Oystershells would take longer for the microbes to break down, shouldnt it be available when the gypsum is no more lol?
That Leaf looks fricken huge, kinda looks like its from A different plant that resembles maryjane
Natural Farmer
New member
I still see no need to test the base. Testing the base is going to tell me what? Base saturation? pH? EWC are going to be variable from one batch to the next so why test it?
IN my opinion I would be better off, testing the base with my pH pen and sending the entire mix in.
You do realize who this is right? Than you know I am more than willing to share the results of my soil test as I have in the past.
IN my opinion I would be better off, testing the base with my pH pen and sending the entire mix in.
You do realize who this is right? Than you know I am more than willing to share the results of my soil test as I have in the past.
Natural Farmer
New member
By the way, people don't like to be belittled by bullshit ie. that this base is well known and readily found on the internet. Seeing how I spent months coming up with a base on my own, I doesn't bode well to hear bullshit from you in regards to it just to make yourself inflated.
Natural Farmer
New member
I never get mad at reasonable questioning of what I have said. Never hold back, I actually like being proven wrong, teaches me something.
So lets play a game.
You send in your entire mix, with everything added. Your K levels come back at 12%. What do you do now?
If you just tested your base mix first, got the results, then you would realize any extra ammendments that has K, will push your K levels too high.
Maybe this just applies to people mixing up hundreds of yards, as you could just add more base material if your ammended mix is too hot. Just not an option when dealing with bulk.
BTW, yup, I know who you are. You are doing great things, and helping educate others. Of course you stand out in my mind.Yes, you always show soil tests. I agree. You are the minority, and really the only other on the other site that is fighting this fight. I tried for a long time, and just got hit with hostility.
Fair enough, my apologies for getting upset.
Natural Farmer
New member
It definitely makes sense and I understand what you are saying but I can adjust the levels on the next run if it is too high. My point is though, that the base test will only be good for this run. If I were to run it again it would be different.
In regards to the K I would just add some dolomite lime and try to bring the K down by increasing the cal and mag.
In regards to the K I would just add some dolomite lime and try to bring the K down by increasing the cal and mag.
Natural Farmer
New member
It is my understanding at least that I don't necessarily need to drop the levels of K, just that I need to balance it out with Cal and mag. I could be entirely wrong here though.
Natural Farmer
New member
@hazybulldog By the way. I learned a lot from you in past years on other forums in regards to soil (probably more than any other single person) and I consider you my friend and brother.
Note the plant to the right in the back, it is a typical weed in Costa Rica.
Looks like some prehistoric indica, no?
Did you try smoking any??? LMAO.
Should of told me you were going to Costa Rica, got lots of friends there! There is a great medicinal herb farm that is a must visit in Santa Barbara (Alajuela) just outside of San Jose. As well, the best coffee you have ever had in Cartago....
Could be! Throws flowers and sets fruit like one!
They could be growing their own biodiesel, the stuff is a weed there. Loves those red nasty iron and aluminum toxic soils.....
The problem with that plant is that it is indeterminate. Keeps flowering and flowering. Impossible to harvest by machine.
I know where there is a variety that tolerates salt and looks to be determinate. Squishing castor beans is easy and I have always had the dream to make my own diesel as I use a lot per week. Between 200 and 300 gallons per week in my tractors. Sometimes more...
My farm used to be irrigated by diesel. My diesel bill was upwards of $25 k per month then.... With electric, down to $8-9K.
As they say, necessity is the mother of invention...
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