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Slownickel lounge, pull up a chair. CEC interpretation
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led05
Chasing The Present
some notes I've taken on Mo before
molybdenum is needed to convert nitrate to ammonia within the plant, feeding with mostly nitrate fertilizer will induce a molybdenum deficiency sooner than feeding with ammoniacal fertilizer. Research has shown that high sulfates can reduce plant uptake of molybdenum. Molybdenum is the ONLY micronutrient that becomes unavailable as the growing medium pH decreases...
molybdenum is closely linked to nitrogen that, its deficiency can easily resemble nitrogen deficiency.
Molybdenum is the ONLY micronutrient that is mobile within the plant
Doka is right, Nitrate is the issue not Chlorophyll of course
Mo is a tricky one. It also resembles a lot of other things too, aside from just N. High Peat, low PH, low life & lack of natural soils seem like perfect breeding grounds for a Deficiency to me in Mo which in normal farming in the ground isn't generally one.
I believe Canna likes Mo as much as Poinsettias do and they are a very good place to look for Mo research and leaf examples
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So humans store extra minerals in bones. Plants store it in leaves and stems. Of course balance is ideal so when the plant does draw upon its mobile minerals it won't get sick. But if you remove the fan leaves and excess can only be stored in stem and flower resulting in a sick and weak low yielding plant
And imo all of the good stuff, terpenes, thwhatever, are oils. They require a lot of energy. So destroying your chloroplasts late in the cycle seems counterproductive. You can argue stress response but a healthy, hydrated mma fighter stomps a dehydrated one. Imo
And imo all of the good stuff, terpenes, thwhatever, are oils. They require a lot of energy. So destroying your chloroplasts late in the cycle seems counterproductive. You can argue stress response but a healthy, hydrated mma fighter stomps a dehydrated one. Imo
led05
Chasing The Present
I wasn't trying to focus solely on Mo, def not my intention, I believe in balance for each individual situation always, lots at play - my guess is GrowingC has things under control just perfectly.... I recommend getting it via Alfalfa and Kale, as mentioned, safe way to go about it, no reason to overdo...
Mo is a unique key Micro though so I thought I'd point out a few things I've jotted down from past I thought to be interesting, it's interaction with N is also more important than some other micros.
led05
Chasing The Present
pushing 7-8 week strains in Coco, I get this, perhaps.... Now growing NLD equatorial ones for 14-20weeks or more, the leaves falling off is part of the healthy game, if their still green near end your product is fkin terrible but it seems we're both after quite different things and end goals
I originally mentioned Mo because of somebodies high nitrate levels in soil.
Another thing you could do is get carbon in that soil...jack up microbe activity and change the nitrate into aminos. Know how they say don’t chuck wood chips in your soil cause it uses up N...in this case that may be good
Another thing you could do is get carbon in that soil...jack up microbe activity and change the nitrate into aminos. Know how they say don’t chuck wood chips in your soil cause it uses up N...in this case that may be good
led05
Chasing The Present
Great space & pic! , not enough indoor grows w adequate ceiling heights, I’d like me one of them spaces please
Nice Jidoka! Is that whole room on the same nutrition? I am guessing it is coco.
As far as my bed and soil numbers: (cliff notes)
N@199 - the bed has 3" mulch on top of the soil. I am guessing 125ppm in soil after run.
Mo - I was irrigating with micropak last round, running B @ 9ppm in solution. You can figure out the Mo ppm... Mo isn't a concern right now. (the S and N were expected to come at next amend...)
Low pH - This was from a couple low pH irrigation's after the bed was ammended. The new jug of pH solution was never shaken after being stored for a few months. The injector was pulling a higher concentration of solution off the bottom of the jug and it was settling to the bottom of the res(before air pump was installed). The pH probe was floating in the top of the res reading properly, while the irrigation pump was sitting in low pH solution... 3 irrigation's like this...
I didn't catch it until I pulled a water sample from a sprinkler. Shook the pH down, put the circulation pump in the res like I was planning (procrastination) and all is well.
No sleep lost and they received the final hit of k (300ppm) on day 35... I will not have to touch this bed again for 5 weeks... Harvest, Ca up, repeat.
As far as my bed and soil numbers: (cliff notes)
N@199 - the bed has 3" mulch on top of the soil. I am guessing 125ppm in soil after run.
Mo - I was irrigating with micropak last round, running B @ 9ppm in solution. You can figure out the Mo ppm... Mo isn't a concern right now. (the S and N were expected to come at next amend...)
Low pH - This was from a couple low pH irrigation's after the bed was ammended. The new jug of pH solution was never shaken after being stored for a few months. The injector was pulling a higher concentration of solution off the bottom of the jug and it was settling to the bottom of the res(before air pump was installed). The pH probe was floating in the top of the res reading properly, while the irrigation pump was sitting in low pH solution... 3 irrigation's like this...
I didn't catch it until I pulled a water sample from a sprinkler. Shook the pH down, put the circulation pump in the res like I was planning (procrastination) and all is well.
No sleep lost and they received the final hit of k (300ppm) on day 35... I will not have to touch this bed again for 5 weeks... Harvest, Ca up, repeat.
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led05
Chasing The Present
I feed from seed emergence until cut, just diff amounts... Leaves still yellow and fall at end, just less feed putting in...
led05
Chasing The Present
great post ! exactly why it pays to have critical thinking and understanding vs. simply knowing stuff and being told what to do
Nope.
I didn't say I am not feeding. I just don't have to touch the bed.
Notice how Slow comments on how I am pushing Calphos or some other obscure mineral through irrigation? My $50 vortex (The ones LED calls fancy
) runs 24/7. Pre-digest, filter and irrigate. Sometimes with and without biologically active teas. Enzymes from sprouts, fermented LAB, Egg aminos... (think fish, but egg. Remember those chickens I raise?).I am now (a few years now) implementing the system I have in place for my other crops, on Cannabis. Like an idiot I fell down the path of gimmicks and Canna specific methods when I first started cultivating indoors. Doing what I know, just relaxing and letting plants grow has brought the enjoyment back to growing. When a pepper plant outside puts a bigger smile on my face than a cannabis plant, it is time to take a step back and learn to enjoy the work again.
It is a good feeling.
Rodehazrd
Well-known member
Hello Rodehazrd here with a simple question. Since starting to follow this thread I've read more and understood some I read a lot about what happens with the light present. This may be a simple thing to you experts but I want to know what is happening during the dark time and why do we need it during veg. Would a 24 hr veg time not be more efficient use of the time? Other than raising the electric budget is there any down side to constant growth? They grow some great product in Alaska and the dark time isn't much.
led05
Chasing The Present
Hello Rodehazrd here with a simple question. Since starting to follow this thread I've read more and understood some I read a lot about what happens with the light present. This may be a simple thing to you experts but I want to know what is happening during the dark time and why do we need it during veg. Would a 24 hr veg time not be more efficient use of the time? Other than raising the electric budget is there any down side to constant growth? They grow some great product in Alaska and the dark time isn't much.
I think many struggle with this but to me it's rather simple. In order to get any plant to express itself to it's fullest potential you should try and mimic as closely as you can to it's origins for everything possible and where it grows naturally is the best you can do... If your plant comes from a spot with 24 hour light, then by all means...
Now, to complicate this. 12 hours of dark outside is not the same as 12 hours of dark inside... more like 13-14 hours inside. .Phytochrome - Pr and Pfr and it's ratio at day or night outside vs inside effects this.... The moon reflects far red quite well...
I digress
paradoxlost
Member
Studies have shown that plant saps flow fastest during a full moon, but also shows the ppfd/light spectrum from moonlight will not affect growth indoors. So that makes me think it's gravitational. Also at night the plant goes full mode into root signalling rather than photosynthesis. There are a bunch of different subtleties, I recommended The Secret Life of Plants to everyone who wants a complete picture on what plants do and do not do.
led05
Chasing The Present
I agree and disagree... outdoor time is faster than indoor time, many studies to prove this., sunsets help as well which most don't simulate inside.
Your right, moonlight won't effect growth indoors but it will outside (effect a plants timing not so much growth), it speeds up the plants internal clock which effects many things.
I'm pretty sure on earth plants inside or outside are effected the same by gravity my friend
Exactly what drives this plants flowering response is vast, the above being just one.
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