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Slownickel lounge, pull up a chair. CEC interpretation

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jidoka

Active member
Was just half messing with all you oldtimers really ;P

Just wanted to sub to this thread and figured Id get yall going a bit.

But for fun would be nice to one sentence summarize the discussion into what needs to be done with all the information in this thread.

You see, as a noob, I spent way too much time on my plants and get way to crappy results, so Im trying to take some advice which is don't over complicate this shit. And It seems like a 400 page thread on calcium seems too deep for me to need to get into in order to just get healthy plants and good growth. I don't know if calcium is my problem, but I will do a side by side and post results soon.

Much respect Slow nickel.

I will take a shot.

If you are too fuckin lazy to read this thread or fucking stupid enough to think it is only about Ca you ain’t gonna make it as a weed grower
 

brown_thumb

Active member
Yeah... I'm not the best grower and much of this is complicated for one who hasn't been trained in the science. Given MY stupidity and the tone this thread has taken, I'm unsubscribing.
 

growingcrazy

Well-known member
Veteran
We are going to be a small group here shortly.

Honesty has a place, that place is here.


Can anyone recommend a place to stay for Emerald Cup this year?
 

EasyGoing

Member
Dolomite Lime has 22% calcium and 12% magnesium. So Im covered right?

only if you are low on Mg right?

My point was, it's very important to choose the right calcium input. If your ph is 7.2 and high on Mg, I would use gypsum. Soil test tells you more than "throw a cup of lime on any soil." :tiphat:
 

maxmurder

Member
Veteran
We are going to be a small group here shortly.

Honesty has a place, that place is here.


Can anyone recommend a place to stay for Emerald Cup this year?

the flamingo, place is rad old school rat pack style.
i was expecting to see Sinatra hanging out in the bar.
just down the street is a great restaurant called sea thai bistro. downtown is russian river brewery- awesome food and beer.:tiphat:
 

h.h.

Active member
Veteran
lol. You really missed the boat with that comment......... Extra Mg?




Yea, all the industry "pro's" I know would write a one page book for sure. I believe the book that SlowN preaches is about 300 pages long, and gold on every page.



You guys should both check out More Food From Soil Science. 1000 bucks says both of your Ca levels are not where Mr. Tiedjens recommends. That is step one.:tiphat: Step two, how to test soil with those levels of Ca. All on page one of this thread. Very important.
Thousand bucks says Mr. Tiedjens is just another lime salesman. Not to troll here, but it's really a pretty simple thing to do. High calcium is great if you're feeding cattle.
 

slownickel

Active member
ICMag Donor
Veteran
Thousand bucks says Mr. Tiedjens is just another lime salesman. Not to troll here, but it's really a pretty simple thing to do. High calcium is great if you're feeding cattle.

Why not ask Steve Solomon what he thinks? Let me know if you need his email address. And Tiedjens didn't sell lime. He was a PhD USDA extension agent that did all kinds of great nutrition experiments. Solomons' page has a free copy of the book.

Where do I pick up my $?
 

EasyGoing

Member
Didn't want to mention on IG, locals stock my account there.

My seeds are doing great, Jelly Roll. Week two of flower, and they look amazing. Little purple streaks, but my grow right now doesn't have heat. So the temps have been dropping as low as 45 degrees in the room. Other than that, they look great. The 1-2-1 recipe is really doing a great job, mixed with proper micros. I am surprised how much N these guys can take when high Ca and P levels are achieved with balanced micros. Really hard to keep my EC around 1, especially in flower. They are sucking up the nutes.

I will take some pics once things get interesting.
 

reppin2c

Well-known member
Veteran
Perfect. Wait your not being sarcastic right?

Yes that's sarcasm. There is no set parameters. In order to understand you gotta read. There's gold in this thread but you have to dig to find it.

Easy how's the P and Ca going with the cold temps? I haven't added any N that hasn't come with anything that I had to have. Hard to not get any, trying the limbo approach...how low can you go.
 
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EasyGoing

Member
Well crap, maybe I am over here messing things up again..... lol


First, Jidoka. You are using a bloom formula that is a 1-2-1 ratio. Perfect right? I am using amino's, mixed with bone meal, mixed with k sulfate and pot silica. That I have calculated to reach 1-2-1, then I add in some micros. Next source of nutrition is Bulb Feed at 4-8-4 or 1-2-1. Then the next factor I take into consideration is the soil ec. So I pump either the fertigation, or top dressing, till I reach a soil EC of 1 ish. In order for me to get my EC up that high in the super lightweight soil I am using, I am having to pump 14ml per gallon of amino's with a ratio of 16-0-0. That means my feed is 16-32-16 with about 6% Ca. This is with 2 ft tall plants in 5 gal containers. Then I top dress with gypsum every month.

This sound like too much N? Plants seem to enjoy it. I should take a brix reading for fun.

Reppin2c - P an Ca is tough with cold temps. We have been in the teens at night, and I run my grow at night to help combat this. However my day temps have stayed in the 30's the last week, keeping my grow temps super low. Even with all that said, my plants have been doing really good. IMO, working on my best indoor grow in 5+ years. The plants are forming a tad bit of purple as the flowers develop, but I think it's due to cold 100%.

I started this grow with my P levels over 1000ppm. I have also been doing a microbial multiplication tea every 7 days to keep the soil alive. I also have been using Mykos wettable powder to keep my Mycorrhizal population alive with those high P levels. I actually have scoped the soil several times after hard hits of nutes, and everything continues to dance.

Maybe I am chasing the N dragon, but I don't understand how to get your EC up if you don't? I already pump Ca like it's going out of style, same with P. Yet the EC doesn't change. N is the only thing that excites my meter.



Edit: after double checking the label of that Bloom Jidoka posted up...... That is a great product! Little high on Fe, little low on Mn, Si and Cu. But just a fantastic product. Not sure what the cost per gallon is, but a great pre mixed solution for sure. Thanks for sharing Jidoka.
 

led05

Chasing The Present
Well crap, maybe I am over here messing things up again..... lol


First, Jidoka. You are using a bloom formula that is a 1-2-1 ratio. Perfect right? I am using amino's, mixed with bone meal, mixed with k sulfate and pot silica. That I have calculated to reach 1-2-1, then I add in some micros. Next source of nutrition is Bulb Feed at 4-8-4 or 1-2-1. Then the next factor I take into consideration is the soil ec. So I pump either the fertigation, or top dressing, till I reach a soil EC of 1 ish. In order for me to get my EC up that high in the super lightweight soil I am using, I am having to pump 14ml per gallon of amino's with a ratio of 16-0-0. That means my feed is 16-32-16 with about 6% Ca. This is with 2 ft tall plants in 5 gal containers. Then I top dress with gypsum every month.

This sound like too much N? Plants seem to enjoy it. I should take a brix reading for fun.

Reppin2c - P an Ca is tough with cold temps. We have been in the teens at night, and I run my grow at night to help combat this. However my day temps have stayed in the 30's the last week, keeping my grow temps super low. Even with all that said, my plants have been doing really good. IMO, working on my best indoor grow in 5+ years. The plants are forming a tad bit of purple as the flowers develop, but I think it's due to cold 100%.

I started this grow with my P levels over 1000ppm. I have also been doing a microbial multiplication tea every 7 days to keep the soil alive. I also have been using Mykos wettable powder to keep my Mycorrhizal population alive with those high P levels. I actually have scoped the soil several times after hard hits of nutes, and everything continues to dance.

Maybe I am chasing the N dragon, but I don't understand how to get your EC up if you don't? I already pump Ca like it's going out of style, same with P. Yet the EC doesn't change. N is the only thing that excites my meter.



Edit: after double checking the label of that Bloom Jidoka posted up...... That is a great product! Little high on Fe, little low on Mn, Si and Cu. But just a fantastic product. Not sure what the cost per gallon is, but a great pre mixed solution for sure. Thanks for sharing Jidoka.

There used to be a time where most fertilizers were either a 1-2-1 or a 1-1-1 type of thing, many commercial still are, mainly synthetics though...

Due to laziness and lack of amount needed inside I like to use a nice 1-2-1 and then I add my own Ca and Micros if needed, ideally the 1-2-1 (in my case also a 5-10-5) has most of the micros I want and even has an OK Fe:Mn ratio of 2:1, I'd prefer 1:1 but 2:1 vs say 10:1 is nice to have
 

led05

Chasing The Present
Super Hotz.....

Super Hotz.....

It all leads back to Peppers with me: doesn't it....

I wish more would add one or a few Xtra Hot Peppers in their grows each cycle. Here's why

1) - They are Ca hogs, even more than Canna, they also show you much earlier, quicker & easier to tell when deficient, like immediately. They are much more finicky to grow and would be / are your Canary

2) - Most time I see people struggling with growing Canna it's because they NEED it to work out, for whatever reason, generally financial... This need, stress, pressure causes most people to make mistakes and then chase those mistakes.

Adding a pepper or two you don't care nearly as much for will teach you a shit ton about over watering, under fertilizing or over fertilizing etc and you'll likely find that pepper plant you're caring less for is doing much better, even though a more finicky plant to grow....

Then the lightbulb will go off and you'll know for sure, the biggest variable, hurdle & obstacle is we, the grower :)

give it a try - seeing deficiencies in more than one species is also a huge value in identification
 

jidoka

Active member
What I was trying to point out is the paradigm Age Old (and most all bottle companies use). Their Grow formula is 12-6-6 then their flower goes to 5-10-5.

If you were following that feed schedule and trying to keep your EC as high as you are you would quickly run into big problems caused by high nitrates...weak plants full of water.

By keeping the balance right from the start you are able to avoid this problem. The balance is what allows you to run the higher EC.

Look at the coco forums for the best example. You hear constant talk about low ECs... say 1-1.2. The reason they are so low is the fucked up balance they use. Mostly high N and K.

If they push that EC they get lockouts in the soil and plants that are bug magnets. By changing that balance I can push EC to at least 2.7

anyways....I am no fan of the age old micros so I don't use the product. I was just trying to point out that really high N and K vs P that most use.
 

led05

Chasing The Present
What I was trying to point out is the paradigm Age Old (and most all bottle companies use). Their Grow formula is 12-6-6 then their flower goes to 5-10-5.

If you were following that feed schedule and trying to keep your EC as high as you are you would quickly run into big problems caused by high nitrates...weak plants full of water.

By keeping the balance right from the start you are able to avoid this problem. The balance is what allows you to run the higher EC.

Look at the coco forums for the best example. You hear constant talk about low ECs... say 1-1.2. The reason they are so low is the fucked up balance they use. Mostly high N and K.

If they push that EC they get lockouts in the soil and plants that are bug magnets. By changing that balance I can push EC to at least 2.7

anyways....I am no fan of the age old micros so I don't use the product. I was just trying to point out that really high N and K vs P that most use.

I like 5-10-5 from time the seeds pops up.... I add some Aminos and Ca to that and micros as well but during Veg & Flower always 1-2-1 ratio - I think many mistake Ca deficiencies for many other things like P, N, K, Zn, Fe deficiencies etc.... normally it's a Ca issue or a over-watering issue which basically in many ways is a Ca issue too
 

growingcrazy

Well-known member
Veteran
If you are trying to get enough P, K and Ca into solution, you can't run 1-2-1 in liquids. You are able to occasionally, but you need to only be adding what the plant needs. On the flip side, if you try to only feed x amount of a 1-2-1 to only get your N needs...you run short on the others. Get me?
 

led05

Chasing The Present
If you are trying to get enough P, K and Ca into solution, you can't run 1-2-1 in liquids. You are able to occasionally, but you need to only be adding what the plant needs. On the flip side, if you try to only feed x amount of a 1-2-1 to only get your N needs...you run short on the others. Get me?

1-2-1 + Micros is in addition to, when I say Aminos I mainly mean Nitrogen & Calcium together.... Medium is charged up heavily with many P sources, Kmag etc beforehand... Gypsum is used when not 1-2-1 ongoing maintenance...

I know a lot (majority) is leftover in the medium I start and then end with but everything gets recycled here into another bed and works on down the road so it's just part of my cycles and method of madness, here...
 

growingcrazy

Well-known member
Veteran
I never find that N is a constant. I put N into a category by itself. Feeding N only to keep a desired visual leaf appearance... Just enough to keep ahead of any yellowing but not dark green.

Everything else in in balance with micros included. I don't like to top-dress N at all after flower has begun. Liquids take over for the next couple weeks.

Led, Are you making a new mix for each container you run? No recycled soil for the Cannabis?

Is Germany on vacation this month?
 
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