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Slownickel lounge, pull up a chair. CEC interpretation

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slownickel

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growingcrazy said:
Exactly... Of my plants outside, some received lime and others got dolomite, the plants that got the extra Mg from the dolo are doing much better.

As far as high Ca moms... I can confirm quicker rooting and growth from the cuts... I started to take cuttings from plants that have had high Ca from the start and am now on the 3rd or 4th generation. Each generation produces above the last. :tiphat:
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Are you on a sandy soil? If you are on a very pourous soil, you will see response from added Mg. Do you have a soil analysis by any chance?

If there is a need for Mg, one of the better sources is sulpomag. Waiting for Mg from dolomite is a slow proposition. And for many in alkaline soil conditions and alkaline water, dolomite is not an option.
 
growingcrazy

growingcrazy

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slownickel said:
Are you on a sandy soil? If you are on a very pourous soil, you will see response from added Mg. Do you have a soil analysis by any chance?

If there is a need for Mg, one of the better sources is sulpomag. Waiting for Mg from dolomite is a slow proposition. And for many in alkaline soil conditions and alkaline water, dolomite is not an option.
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Very sandy porous soils. Sitting at 5.8 pH in native, added dolo to get pH to 6.2-6.3. Kmag is one of my current sources of Mg and K through irrigation.

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This was untouched native soil after clearing off some the jungle of black raspberries.

Added to that (from memory)

Dolo lime
Gypsum
Calphos
Bone meal
Crab meal
Kelp meal
Chicken compost from my farm.

A photo from a few weeks ago. Ill take some more recent...
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~star~crash~

~star~crash~

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HappyTreeFarm said:
would you be willing to share what you learned about frost tolerance?
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i was concerned about tissue damage (and i still am) it rained today the plants are still wet and in 16 hours it will briefly drop to 32 degrees ...Slow told me to water the plants now before the temp drops to keep the root zone warmer ...peace ...he said i'd be ok
 
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slownickel

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Mmmmm clarification is necessary regarding resisting frost.

The idea is to water WHILE it is cold. You are using this as a defense mechanism (provided that it is well water or water that is not freezing cold) to prevent cold air from entering the soil.

If you are on heavy soils and it is already saturated, it is even more important to wait til the cold sets in. You are trying to prevent the cold from hitting the roots. Do not saturate during the day and not water at night. That may or may not work. The idea is to water WHILE it is happening....

Sorry for the confusion.
 
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jidoka

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IMG_1031.jpg

Sometimes that freezing ass rain is just a good thing. I would say keep brix high. Sugar and ions in the sap lower the freezing point
 
~star~crash~

~star~crash~

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Here's some New York State just about ready (my humble effort)

Here's some New York State just about ready (my humble effort)

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redlaser

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I would be interested in finding out the temperature increase that happens when watering during a frost, the applied water temp seems to be the biggest variable. And how long does it have a benefit? It seems like a heavy mulching would be more effective at regulating soil temps.

It doesn't seem like it would be worth having the extra water at a time of full flower, could get weeks of cold cloudy days, and in that scenario I'd rather be drier.

Cannabis can take a light frost, it's the hard freeze at 28 degrees that causes losses. I used to work at a few orchards that had apples, peaches, and strawberries and vegetables. It wasn't uncommon to get freezing temps when the peach blossoms were out, so when 28 degrees was likely we would run sprinklers on the trees all night. The process of the water freezing gives off enough heat to keep the tree above 28. Sometime they would rent a helicopter to hover for the night blowing warmer air down.

Freezing water would break some cannabis branches without decent support, but it would probably keep it alive.
 
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slownickel

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redlaser said:
I would be interested in finding out the temperature increase that happens when watering during a frost, the applied water temp seems to be the biggest variable. And how long does it have a benefit? It seems like a heavy mulching would be more effective at regulating soil temps.

It doesn't seem like it would be worth having the extra water at a time of full flower, could get weeks of cold cloudy days, and in that scenario I'd rather be drier.

Cannabis can take a light frost, it's the hard freeze at 28 degrees that causes losses. I used to work at a few orchards that had apples, peaches, and strawberries and vegetables. It wasn't uncommon to get freezing temps when the peach blossoms were out, so when 28 degrees was likely we would run sprinklers on the trees all night. The process of the water freezing gives off enough heat to keep the tree above 28. Sometime they would rent a helicopter to hover for the night blowing warmer air down.

Freezing water would break some cannabis branches without decent support, but it would probably keep it alive.
Click to expand...

Good points.

The worries for someone that is going to suffer an early freeze such as described is that it can damage roots enough to stop growing, leaving the growers little ability to keep growing There are different methods depending on the fear.

The process for fruit trees is different. They are perennials, deep rooted and always go through heavy winters. The process you are describing is to save an early blossom or first growth.

The process that I describe is to be able to keep growing the buds minimizing the risk of cold air entering air space in the soil, possibly frosting surface feeder roots. The idea of applying water to buds scares me. Here is a good article that describes in detail the full recommendations for this method. Important to understand the real details.

Will It Kill Plants to Water Them Before a Freezing Night? | Home Guides | SF Gate

http://homeguides.sfgate.com/kill-plants-water-before-freezing-night-68746.html
 
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Limeygreen

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There is some variables to consider as well, do you have bare soil, is the sky clear or cloudy are there wind currents or is it calm. Bare soil with clear skies but with wind will stay warmer than bare soil clear skies and no wind. Clear sky offers no insulation of the upper atmosphere causing a heat loss great than with clouds. We have hoar frost this morning with 4 degrees c, clear skies and no wind, if we had wind I would expect to not see so much settle. Heat sinks like asphalt, concrete, rocks etc also provide micro climates as they have held in heat. If you have mulch 4-6 inches deep of straw your soil will stay warmer as well but it cannot just be put the day of, you would need to have it at least a week on to stabilize the soil temperature, it also is great for keep dirt etc from splashing when it rains.
 
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