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Slownickel lounge, pull up a chair. CEC interpretation
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My method for drying and curing is as follows.
I'll hang the whole plant upside down in a dedicated tent for x number of days until the fan leaf stem and smaller branches seem mostly dry. Then I'll limb them and place in large paper bags and continue drying at a slower rate in the same tent. At the point one would transfer into jars for curing, I take the whole bag and place in a dedicated freezer until I need.
Here is an interesting thread on the topic.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=186222
I'll hang the whole plant upside down in a dedicated tent for x number of days until the fan leaf stem and smaller branches seem mostly dry. Then I'll limb them and place in large paper bags and continue drying at a slower rate in the same tent. At the point one would transfer into jars for curing, I take the whole bag and place in a dedicated freezer until I need.
Here is an interesting thread on the topic.
https://www.icmag.com/ic/showthread.php?t=186222
Thanks for the responses........ I am conflicted.........
Jidoka. You are saying, what few others say. It is of my opinion, that most people will tell you slow and steady. To me, in the past, this meant 60% rh set, and 60 degree F. When I have large nugs, it can take two full weeks to dry correctly at these levels.
What you are saying, is what I keep hearing from the best in the industry. I stayed at the last emerald cup and listened to the head guy from Wonderland Nursery and Archive seeds state you want very little air circulation, no exhaust fans, RH set down at 40% and temps around 70f. This would cause much faster drying period.
His reasons were less loss of terps, and you actually get a crust that keeps in terps when dried fast. Kind of like searing a steak on both sides, holds the juice in better.
Now here you come along and start talking about plant health being a factor as well...... What does that mean? I assume you are bug, and mildew free at this point, so a longer dry shouldn't exacerbate these issues. So why would plant health matter? I know higher levels of Ca will prolong the life of your finished fruit, but can you extrapolate please?
Outcold - Thanks! That is how i used to do it when I was a smaller operation. Trying to figure out how to create a paper bag like environment with dry rooms, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, ac, ext ext.
Jidoka. You are saying, what few others say. It is of my opinion, that most people will tell you slow and steady. To me, in the past, this meant 60% rh set, and 60 degree F. When I have large nugs, it can take two full weeks to dry correctly at these levels.
What you are saying, is what I keep hearing from the best in the industry. I stayed at the last emerald cup and listened to the head guy from Wonderland Nursery and Archive seeds state you want very little air circulation, no exhaust fans, RH set down at 40% and temps around 70f. This would cause much faster drying period.
His reasons were less loss of terps, and you actually get a crust that keeps in terps when dried fast. Kind of like searing a steak on both sides, holds the juice in better.
Now here you come along and start talking about plant health being a factor as well...... What does that mean? I assume you are bug, and mildew free at this point, so a longer dry shouldn't exacerbate these issues. So why would plant health matter? I know higher levels of Ca will prolong the life of your finished fruit, but can you extrapolate please?
Outcold - Thanks! That is how i used to do it when I was a smaller operation. Trying to figure out how to create a paper bag like environment with dry rooms, humidifiers, dehumidifiers, ac, ext ext.
I like the analogy about searing the steak. That is a great description...
Dense well grown flowers that are brought to a shelf ready state in a week seem to hold terps far better. You get that nice crunchy but still sticky quality upon breaking up a nug.
Underground cold storage with dehumidifiers is optimum. A sealed hoop in the shade with dehumidifiers and a silage tarp covering it for outdoor though...
mean gene said his weed takes a month to dry
Use air flow to control time. And oscillate the fans. Imo you do not want a crust. Trapping water in the bud is an excellent way to accelerate microbial growth.
If mean gene actually takes 4 weeks no wonder he kills at the emerald cup. It is just a matter of risk/reward for me beyond a week
I got a personal sfv...maybe I will try 4 on it
If mean gene actually takes 4 weeks no wonder he kills at the emerald cup. It is just a matter of risk/reward for me beyond a week
I got a personal sfv...maybe I will try 4 on it
I would even go down to the mid 60's F. A lot of terpenes have a high vapor pressure that just increases with temp. RH depends of whats going on when you're harvesting. Is it raining? Then a shake of the branch to wish as much moisture off and 50-55% RH for the first day. I like 60% though and a longer dry (7-10 days in my experience), but in wet climate that first drying day being below 55% is important.
Easy, what Jidoka is trying to say is think of your flowers like produce. If you buy that nitrate bloated shit lettuce from the grocery store, you usually find it rotting in the fridge not much later. If your plants are healthier, the cells are going to live longer and fend off fungus until they are dry and dead. Nutrient density.
Easy, what Jidoka is trying to say is think of your flowers like produce. If you buy that nitrate bloated shit lettuce from the grocery store, you usually find it rotting in the fridge not much later. If your plants are healthier, the cells are going to live longer and fend off fungus until they are dry and dead. Nutrient density.
So, unless mean gene's buds are literally 3-5 times bigger than my biggest buds I have ever grown....... Wouldn't a month dry/cure really just be a dry, that morphs into a long cure? This is actually what has yielded the best results for me in the past. 60F and 60% Rh. I used to keep it there until I had time to get to it. Now the trimmers need to be fed.
Or does that mean that mean gene keeps the RH above 55-60% rh for that month? That seems crazy?
Orechron, thanks. I agree.
Or does that mean that mean gene keeps the RH above 55-60% rh for that month? That seems crazy?
Orechron, thanks. I agree.
Don't forget air movement/exchanges during the actual drying phase. Think what would happen in a grow running vpd numbers without air movement...same deal in drying.
And you are no doubt right...at some point that drying becomes curing. I just do not have that kinda space. Kinda jealous
And you are no doubt right...at some point that drying becomes curing. I just do not have that kinda space. Kinda jealous
looking great
hey thanks for linking the Agphd video, ive been really enjoying and learning a lot from many of their videos
Beautiful job on that plant. The stack is on point.
I have a monster in a 200 gallon that is herculean with it's uptake. I said forget it, and topped it with 5x as much as recommended. Still needs more food, tissue samples sent out yesterday to confirm.
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Rolando Mota
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Is the sulfur in gypsum something to be considered when balancing your soil?
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