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Seedlings are sprouting in coco - what now? First grow!

J

JackKerouac

mojo said:

Wow, that is some short internodal spacing. Looking really healthy.

I would let the roots fill up the cup a little more, even though coco roots don't show as much shock as soil.
 
G

Guest

Had a lot to do today, transplanted the seedlings into 3 gal pots. Was more nerve racking than I thought it would be, lol.

aizen, that's funny dude. I think I might be able to help you on the age cause I think I saw pubic hair on one of them, lol. Have they asked if they could borrow the car yet? Look good, man.

gaius, like I said I went ahead and transplanted the plants. Most difficulty I had was getting them to separate from the bottoms of the cups. Here's what I did for any who might benefit from an explanation.



I filled my 3 gal pots with coco.

1. Made the hole for the plants in the center of the coco by using another cup just like the ones they were in. Then with my fingers I tapered the walls of the holes outward a little.

2. I then sprayed the holes with water, and I always make sure the pH is at 6 or a little lower. Water also had rhizotonic in it - 1.5 mL/qt.

3. I pressed against the sides of the cups the seedlings were in so I could get the root/coco ball to separate from the cup sides.

4. I then turned the seedlings upside down with the stem between my fingers and palm covering the upside down opening in the cup
I had to press sort of hard and gently apply a pulling force on the stem to get the whole thing out. Roots were really gripping the bottom of the cups.
Once free of the cups, I still held them upside down and set the back of my hand next to the hole I dug and rolled my hand over and let them tilt into the hole.

5. I then pressed the coco I had tapered outward back in and up against the root ball to make good contact.

6. I gently pressed downward so plants would have good coco contact on the bottoms also.

7. Then I got my sprayer and sprayed about a pint of water onto the coco right next to where the plants were to get some moisture right down on top of the root system. 1.5 mL/qt rhizotonic.



8. Put them into the grow closet under my 400W MH air cooled light and put them on a 20/4 lighting schedule.







I could tell they were unhappy about the whole event because they really looke like they were drooping a little.









9. I then refilled my sprayer and put another quart of water on each plant.

Lights went out at 0200 and will come back on at 0600. Hopefully they will regain their footing and bounce back soon. Temp in closet with the light off is now 72 and humidity is 56. Temp with light on is 79 and rh stays at about 50. The closet exhaust fan will run 24-7 and I've also got a circulating fan in the closet blowing on the opposite end of the closet to provide some indirect circulation for them.

NPK, thanks for the compliment on the plants and hopefully they'll spring right back. Yeah I know what you're saying about the buying for your grow never ending. I've got a list of stuff that I just keep adding to. One thing I am going to have to do is get some more canna coco coming. It's expensive for me to get cause it's coming from the west coast and the freight is a lot more than the bag of coco. Don't know why there aren't any distributors in the US except on the east and west coasts.

bongoman, sssup man. Still just using the rhizotonic right now. Just as soon as the get over the shock of transplanting I'll begin the A+B at 1 or 1.5 mL/qt (4-6 mL/gal) and see how they respond.

JK, yeah the spacing is kinda tight. I was able to get my 200W CFL within about 6 inches of the plants by directing one of those piece of shit little inline air boost fans we inexperienced idiots buy cause we believe their bullshit claim that it'll move 220cfm. It's the kind that's 6" in diameter and housed inside a 6" round tube so it can be sandwiched between two 6" ducts. Propping it up against the side of my germination tray and letting it blow up into the reflector of my CFL helped keep the heat the light generates off the plants. I could get the light down within 6" of the plants and still keep the temp at plant level at about 78F.

I'm tired folks so I'm going to catch some rack time. Would have gone to bed a couple of hours ago, but I wanted to respond to the people who showed up here. And had this thing almost typed out but in the process of uploading pics, I hit the back button and every fucking thing I had typed went pooof!

BTW, how does everyone put multiple quotes in their responses????? I've tried but every time I come back to my reply, the thing has disappeared and I've got to start all over. Just wondering cause it sure is easier to refer to specifically what a person is asking.

Later zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
 
G

Guest

OK here's an update on the replant episode.

All the plants are looking great. Perked up and have started growing. After my transplant day post, I just watered all the plants with straight water pH'd and Rhizotonic 1mL/qt to somewhere between 5.5 and 6.0. I can't be exact on the pH cause I use a kit that uses a reagent - three drops into the solution and visually check the color. I usually interpolate between the two and come up with an estimate of pH. gave each plant about a quart of water around the perimeter of the pot so I could coax the roots to grow horizontally and not just straight down to the bottom of the pot.

Well, last night I went ahead and added A+B 1mL/qt to the same mix as above and fed each of the two Aurora Indicas a half galon each. That gave me a runoff I estimate to be about 10-15%. Watered the White widows still with Rhizotonic only. They look really healthy and haven't shown any signs of needing a dose of A+B yet. I expect the way they're growing that the next watering I'll need to add the A+B to their water too. Think I'll probably beef up the AI's nutes to 1.5 mL/qt cause they've always had a little yellowing in the leaves. I'm thinking their Nitrogen needs are a little higher than the WWs. gaius, I'm going really slow at upping the nutes. Don't want to burn any of them and so far, I've got plants (AI's) that are needing more Nitrogen. Rather have that, personally than to have signs of nitro burn and have to back off. Don't ya think?????

Here are the pics. I may just be a doting father, but I think they're coming along well. Thanks, gaius. I have learned caution from you and when you stated in another thread that White Widows just do better with less nutes, I decided to take advantage of your experience and go with less. In the pics, I lowered the exposure compensator of the camera so the AI's may appear a little darker green than they really are.

White widows:

The burned runt (also a White Widow) with crinkled leaves (even the new growth leaves are crinkled





Pic of all of them - two AI's are in the back at the end of the closet




Now the White Widows - definitely a darker green indicating, I think, plenty of Nitrogen









And these are the two Aurora Indicas - last two shots are of the same plant, just a slightly different focal point on the plant








I think they are looking pretty good for 16 day old plants.
 
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gaiusmarius

me
Veteran
Hi mojo,

you are doing great, the plants look the way they should do. you are correct about the nute, you can always add more, taking it out is more hassle. i think you are judging it well, if you think the auroras need more then add a bit more, but always go up in small steps watching how the plants react. if the top growing leaves start turning really dark green or getting tip burn then you gave too much.

the one other thing i wanted to mention, is that not all ww are the same. the one i grow is a clone. so it's not sure that your ww will be as nute shy as mine is, but it does no harm to be careful with the nutes and in the end i find it much easier to yield well when my plants are not being maxed out with nutrients, but rather getting just what they need to keep them looking healthy, but not too nute dark. anyway as time goes on you will quickly notice what the plants want, it wouldn't surprise me in the least if the auroras turn in to nute hungry ladies.
 
G

Guest

lookin good mojo keep it up pimpin lol

OMG my shit are gettin big quick i got some liquid karma and they just went crazy,
the first alternating node set is just about 2 inches and the second set is not to far behind. im gonna clone them in the next couple of days. hey does ne one know hot to keep mother plants short? i dont want them to get ne taller than 2-2 1/2 feet. should i just keep them in those pots i have now and cut some of the roots out later. iono lol

*off to the bonzi thread*
 
G

Guest

Well, here's an update in the kids. All are looking good and growing like weeds, hehe. Well one looks a little under the weather and I can't figure out what the problem might be. A couple of the leaves, second internode from the top (were the top leaves till a couple of days ago) on one of the WWs look a little burned. Noticed it yesterday and went to the sick plant guide I saved from one of the threads and the only thing I could find that even looked close to it was light burn. My 400WMH light has been 19" from the tops of the plants so I moved it up to 28". My remote thermometer is always kept down at plant level and has never gotten above 82F and then for only a brief period of time. Temp is normally around 78F and right now after moving the light up, the temp is again 77.9. RH is 40-50%.

Plants were transplanted into 3 gallon pots about a week ago and have really started taking off. I have only been adding A+B to the AIs because the WWs never looked like they were missing the nitrogen. Last night I watered all plants just to runoff with water(pH 5.5), Rhizotonic 1.5mL/quart, and A+B 1.5mL/ quart. This is the first dose of A+B the WWs have ever had really so I can't see the problem being nute burn.

Anybody seen this before. Pics should show the problem pretty well.








 

gaiusmarius

me
Veteran
Hey mojo

i spent long and hard looking at the pics you posted up, first i thought it was a left over symptom from the burn they got from a spray under lights right at the beginning, but i see some signs of it on more then one plant.

i assume that you have had a very good look at the underside of the leaves and that there are no mites? right?

what does come to mind is your comment about it not being over ferted. this is true if all that's in there is what you have been giving. but some coco comes new with crazy high salt levels. canna has actually gotten this problem sorted out, but if you got very old stock or just plain bad luck and your initial coco might have been quite salty. this is why i always tell people to use plain ph'ed water to give the coco an initial soak till the water is gushing back out, after measuring the ec of that water i know what to do.

another thought i had while looking at your pics, is that the coco looks kind of light. do you saturate it with water once in a while? if not that's what they need a few gallons of ph'ed water followed by a cup full of nutrient solution for each plant. those signs mean that some thing in the coco is not balanced, for a proper availability of all the nutes you need to have certain conditions in the coco. when you let it get too dry to often, it can quickly cause such rust.
 
G

Guest

Thanks Farmer John, Never even thought of salt burn since I'm using Canna coco. But, like gm said, I guess it could be an old stock. The place I got it from is on the west coast and is a big name hydro shop so I wouldn't have thought it to be old. Guess it's about time to invest in an EC meter, huh.

gm, thanks dude. Like I told FJ. It isn't happening to more than one plant. The pics you see are all shots of the same plant. So who knows. Is there a better way (i.e. quicker) to water the plants. Right now I'm mixing up the nutes, pHing the water and giving it to them by pouring it out of a cup so as not to hydro a hole in the coco. Read somewhere where the roots don't like gurgling or some shit like that. The amount of time it takes to water has me leaning towards a more automated system sometime in the not so distant future. How would I go about getting a large volume of water through the plants in order to flush them without upsetting the coco.

The plants have never been dry, or even close to it since they were in their seedling cups and you told me to let them get almost bone dry and I understand you were right that we had to do that to get the roots to spread out. But the volume of new coco that they're planted in seems to me the roots are already in the new stuff. Tell me the technique I need to use to flush and I'll get right on it. Hate to upset the roots by putting water through the coco at too fast a rate. It may be my tap water!!! Just thought of that. Water in this area is a little high in sodium content. RO system would take care of that I guess. I can buy an under sink system and install it myself. No other way I know of to get the salt out.

Thanks
 

gaiusmarius

me
Veteran
yeah it's a possibility in coco, specially if one treats the coco like earth in the watering style. but it's easy to cure, specially so early on. it's even quite normal, because in order to provoke the root growth mojo was not watering often or much, but now the plants are firmly established its necessary to soak the coco till run off every watering, even if you do wait a few days in-between waterings.
 
G

Guest

Well I went to get some RO water at a place here in town and I picked up 20 gals till I can install an under sink model this weekend. Funny thing is, my tap water after running through a PUR water filter has a pH of about 8-8.5 so I've always had to put some pH down in it to pull it into the 5.5-6.0 range and the same water after going through an RO filter is exactly 6.0. Takes a lot of work out of the whole process if I don't have to mess with pH'n the water. Kind of an add a little and test, add a little and test again, etc.

When I got the water inside the house, I pulled all three of the WWs out of the grow closet and ran about 2 gals through them. They were already pretty saturated from the watering yesterday and the new stuff started flushing the old out almost immediately. The The AIs weren't showing any signs of salt burn, if that's what's ailing 2 of the White Widows so I didn't flush them. I mixed up about a gallon of RO water with Rhizotonic and A+B and divided it up between the two of them. Runoff started again almost immediately so I'm taking the salt level down every time I do that, if my logic's right.

After watering the AIs with the new water and nutes, I mixed up enough nutes and Rhizotonic to put a couple of 16oz cups into eahc of the WWs. Got about that much runoff out of each so I'm thinking I put enough nutes in them to keep them going.

And I definitely want to keep them going. I showed my wife the difference between yesterday's growth and today's after they were on nutes for about 36 hours and both of us were amazed at how they all had taken off. Here's the pics and hopefully I have flushed the salt out of the plants. Got a Hanna pH, ec, tds combo meter that will be here tomorrow and I saved the first part of the runoff from the first WW that I flushed so I'll test it tomorrow to see what the ec is. Here's the pics - one from yesterday, then almost the same shot taken right after the flush today, along with maybe a couple more.

A week ago on the 6th fresh out of the seedling cups and into the coco



5 days ago on the 8th



Yesterday


And today




The AIs are beginning to make the room smell really nice. Last time I smelled this smell, I had just paid $200 a quarter ounce for the shit. Two hits and I was good for 2-3 hours. And this was back when I couldn't sleep due to the pain of 2 obliterated discs in my neck!!!

Later
 
G

Guest

OK got my pH/ec meter and am not sure how to read it for salt content. Reading from runoff from the flush was an ec of 1.02 and the plants still look a little burned with more leaves involved so I'm not sure what to do yet. The pH I used to flush them with may have been a little high according to my new Hanna meter so I'm thinking I might need to flush again????






Help needed from someone who's seen this. Hardly adding any nutes at all.
 

gaiusmarius

me
Veteran
mojo, before the plants can look perfect, they need not only the correct fert levels, they also ned the correct ph level. at this stage in the grow your nutrient solution should have a ph of 5.8 your ec can be 1.3

your ph being high is a perfect explanation for lock out of mg or cal. a lower ph of 5.8 will sort it out.

are you giving that coco enough water? too little water will cause problems too. you need to make sure that you are watering until run off at least once every few days.
 
G

Guest

Thanks guys, you people are fanfuckingtastic. aizen, that's the exact sick plant guide I downloaded and have been using. I clicked on each picture and dragged it to full size before I saved it and I thought it looked a lot like a calcium deficiency, but then I also thought it looked like a couple of other things too, lol.

gm, thanks for checking in, dude. Yeah, Ive been using drops (reagent) and reading the color panel to check my pH. I went ahead and got a meter but I'm not sure how to read it and the fucking instructions don't say shit really. I'd appreciate it if you or someone else who's knowledgeable about these meters would take some time to enlighten me. Starting from calibration would be good. I mean they sent starter solutions and all and I even bought larger quantities of the solutions knowing that I would need them and when I try to calibrate the thing for ec using the solution, I'm not sure what I'm getting is correct. I know it's a pain for someone to take the time to explain it, but I (and whomever else reads this and needs the info) sure would be grateful. And gm, should I flush again with the corrected pH or just water with correct pH + nutes and let it work itself out?

knna, thanks man for the info. I'm hesitant to foliar spray with anything after the great foliar disaster of January '07, hehe. I'm so gun shy of anything that says "salt" on it. I'll let it swish around in my brain for a while though, and if I can't get things turned around with a good watering with correct pH, I'll arm myself with the sprayer.

Thanks again everyone and I'll keep watching for help with my meter questions.
 

gaiusmarius

me
Veteran
do not use epsom salts mojo. first see if the ph does the trick, if not add some cal mag.

please don't use epsom salts, i have seen many coco grows run into problem using epsom salts.

they tried to correct a minute problem that would make no difference to the yield and ended up screwing the plants a whole lot worse by trying to fix something the wrong way.

before adding any additive to correct a problematic symptom, always be sure you have the basics right first. if the ph isn't right, the nutrient uptake can't be perfect. if you start adding other shit, while it's actually a ph problem, you just cause more lockout as the new stuff accumulates but still isn't taken up by the plant because the ph is in the wrong range. in that way coco is the same as hydro. ph is important.
 
G

Guest

gaiusmarius said:
do not use epsom salts mojo. first see if the ph does the trick, if not add some cal mag.

before adding any additive to correct a problematic symptom, always be sure you have the basics right first. if the ph isn't right, the nutrient uptake can't be perfect. if you start adding other shit, while it's actually a ph problem, you just cause more lockout as the new stuff accumulates but still isn't taken up by the plant because the ph is in the wrong range. in that way coco is the same as hydro. ph is important.

Right on gm. Thought I had the pH thing by the ying yang. Every time I checked my pH, I brought it down to 5.8-6 - or so I thought. The little cheap test drop kit I was using was telling me one thing and my new pH, ec meter was showing me it was lying. I was, in reality watering with pH in the 7-7.5 range. Flushed everything again last night with a pH of 5.8 on my Hanna meter and ferted with Rhizo 5ml/gal and enough A+B to bring the ec to 1.0. gm, I know you said I could bring it to 1.3, but till I know I've really got control of the pH and sodium prob, I didn't want to overstress them with nutes they're not used to getting. Going slow here, lol.

After looking at them today when I got home it's pretty apparent that they're over their ailment (Thanks aizen and gm). They're to the point today that they're crowding each other with the pots touching each other like I've been placing them to get them all under the 400W. Think it might be time to flip the 400 off and kick on the 600W and move them under it. It has a bigger footprint. And when they're too crowded for that one, I'll kick on both lights and spread the plants out in the closet. Got plenty of room for growth and I've been without a good smoke for so long, I'm willing to wait.... maybe, hehe.








Posted pic from two days ago

 
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gaiusmarius

me
Veteran
glad to hear you have things under control mojo, damn it shows how forgiving the coco is when you think that you have been watering with such a high ph.

anyway, how big do you wish the plants to be when ripe? how much total light are you prepared to give them? if you wish to flower under 1000 watts, then you will soon have to flip to 12/12 letting them get too tall without a lot of light is not really useful, yield wise. too small is also no good. but both the ww and the NL are stretchy strains. so too much veg time is not needed.
 
G

Guest

gm I don't know how tall they'll get when I do flip them. I've heard that a grower can plan on the plants being three times the height of when they were put into veg. Right now, the shortest is 8 inches and the tallest is 10. The runt that was burned is the shortest. I've got a plan... I'll let you decide, hehehehehe. I'm thinking that I'd sort of like to see em get about 3 to 4 feet total. But I really don't know, when it all comes down to it. The AIs seem to be bushier than the WWs but one of the WWs is a kick ass looking plant. It'll probably be a male, hehe. You're the WW expert, dude. Nobody does em any better than you do! What would you do?

My plans are to put them under all 1000 watts of lighting. My lights are HPS/MH switchable so all I'll have to do is take out the MH bulbs and screw in the HPS. My 600W HPSputs out 95,000 lumens and the 400W comes in at about 50,000 lumens. The lights will be at different heights due to that difference so that all the plants will receive about the same intensity.

My thinking is I'd like to let em go another week or so now that I'm giving them all nutes. I plan to feed at increasing ec amounts, yesterdays was at 1.0, maybe tomorrow's ec at 1.15 and Monday's at 1.3. Keep em at that for several days, let em get some strong growth going and then flip em. What do you think of that regimen? If you would do any different, just let me know, dude.

I'm going to put up some pics I just took to give you a better idea of what type growth they really have going right now.

The WWs






The AIs



And the group



Another thing... do you think CO2 would be a good thing to get going. If you do, let me know and I'll PM you and tell you about my growroom and a few questions I might need to address. Awe fuck it! I'll go ahead and get into it now, maybe others might like to get in on the CO2 thing with us.

OK, the money isn't the issue, not that I have the money for an elaborate setup right now. I've sort of been looking to get into it by spending about $150-$200 for a single or double bottle regulator. I don't want to spend the money to get one of those ridiculously high Cap systems right now. I'm thinking what I mentioned would work well enough for me right now - comes with regulator, hose, etc. My questions are these:

1) My grow closet is part of my office, actually my office is a bedroom in the house that was unused. It's small about 12 x 15 feet. All the air for the grow closet comes from and returns to this office. I have an 11,000 btu window A/C installed that helps keep the environment in the grow closet more or less stable at about 40-50% rh and 78-81 degrees. I really set the whole thing up with CO2 in mind by making the grow closet reliant upon the office for it's environment. Air will just recirculate, with the A/C having the ability to run vent to the outside closed. Door to my office is always closed. Is it safe for me to be in my office with the levels of CO2 that are needed for the grow? I've checked with several of my anatomy & physiology professor friends (not telling why I was asking of course, hehe) and they have said it shouldn't be a problem.

2) What kind of CO2 meter should I buy to keep tabs on levels so I can get my system set?

3) CO2 seems to make a difference from what I've picked up as to yield and quality but I don't really know. I'm sure you do, so does it indeed make a diff?

4) Would you do it if you were me? Do you already have a CO2 system and if you do, would you recommend it? I plan to be growing for my own benefit for a long time and not to sell, but fuck it man, I like nice weed too, I'm human!!! :yummy:

5) One more thing, should I replant to 5 gal before flippin em to give em more room? These things haven't even come close to making a root ball yet. Maybe in another couple of weeks but I sort of doubt it even by then. Having said that, I think I could be gentle enough that I could probably get them through it without committing herbicide, lol. Just let me know what YOU think.

Another typical looonnnnngggggg ass post, I know. But I've been off your back for a while now, hehe. Time for you to get back to your babysitting job of taking care of mojo, lol. So take a big toke, limber up your fingers, and get busy typing! If you don't mind of course, Sir. lol I can kiss ass with the best of em.

preciate it bud.
 
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B

bonecarver_OG

nice one :D

i usually just use my gas house hold heater fora while - :D but it does a huge difference :D it makes the plants want more nutes though and also works better on a bit higher temps.

peace
 
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